Linas.P

Not a slouch... can't comment as that would get me banned 😅 But it is experience of comfort and serenity, also there is no urge to go fast or race anyone, because of the "no slouch" part - I was greatly offended by ratty 20 years old Clio overtaking me from the lights and cutting in front of me and after that insult I never even tried to prevent this from happening again. So overall very relaxing car to drive - other cars driving fast don't bother you, because you know you are not capable of matching them anyway, not even 20 years old Clio. I would note that ECO mode is not economical, in my experience you will get better MPG in Normal or even Sport. ML is good as you said, especially in RC. Lexus Sat-Nav is kind of junk, clunky, slow inaccurate - I assume you have android auto on your car? Quite surprised 2020 RC already got it, but if you do then you are very lucky and you should continue using it, there isn't even any comparison between it and Lexus system. I would assume that you right about an app - RC is still fundamentally based on Lexus tech from 2013, even thought it was facelifted the core of the system is the one from IS300h that came out in 2013, so I would not be surprised if Lexus Link app functionality would be limited and would only work on latest models. Lexus is not amazing with this stuff, even LC500 only got Android Auto in last couple of years, overall integration of tech is also poor (e.g. Merc, BMW, Audi has long figured out app integration pretty much across the range), Lexus seems to focus on SUVs, so the best tech and integration experience would be on SUVs like NX or RX. Coupes are just ignored when it comes to R&D in tech side. My RC really looked dated tech wise compared to same year NX, despite costing the same.

CT2000CT H - is that new model of terminator? 😁

I assume you get no codes? You would need to look at live-data to understand why it is stalling when warm and in idle. EGR could be related, but I can't see link between car being warm... if EGR is blocked then it would be just generally down on power, cold, warm idle or on power. Same for all other things you mentioned - fuel pump, when it fails it fails, injectors could be linked to rough running, but it will always be rough. I would almost suspect some sensor being an issue, so when car warms-up sensor gives some sort of incorrect reading, causes maybe lean burn and car starts stalling. Something like MAF, or oxygen sensor, again you will need live-data to look at such intermittent issues and even then it will be pain, because you looking for needle in a haystack, or rather for a straw in the mountain of needles. IS220d - is worst Lexus ever made, there is no doubt about it. What you describing is pretty standard experience people get with these cars, especially in recent years when they got to the price point and age where they are neglected. If you got one from new and always stayed on top of maintenance, they still worst Lexus ever, but not much worse than competition (say BMW 320d), however by now that all of them are sheds an uneconomical to repair I it highly recommended no to buy them, if you ask this question on the forum, the answer will always be "avoid like a plague".

Seemed like bog standard UK taxi... is it worth importing Prius from Japan?

The cover is available, but from memory it is scratched (will need to check). No tools came with the car unfortunately and the towing eye would be part of the tool box.

Kind of mine now, apart of frame 🙂 I do have all doors and windows, but I will need to check if they are not scratched. In my experience all windows get scratched eventually with wear ant tear, so I would assume there will be scratches on 18 years old car. Whenever better or worse than you have is hard to say. What I am saying - if you want window that isn't scratched, then you probably will need new one. As for fitting - they will fit, but Lexus did have few different "tones" of tinting, so it may not be matching to the one you have. I will get window cleaned and will send you some pictures.

The saving grace for LC is that they are simply not in demand to be stolen. The hot on the list are SUVs, that is what everyone wants, the parts are in demand, the cars are in demand for exporting etc. LC is just not that car that is on the radar, it is way to rare to for somebody to try to "legitimise" it locally, it is way to rare that somebody would try to rebuild/re-VIN a wreck, it is too expensive and not suitable for driving in Africa. So although technically it may be prone to CANBUS attack, it is simply not the type of car thief target. I would be highly worried about RX and NX, I have seen few ES stolen (really surprises me as to why ES?!), but LC just not the type of car.

The battery from RC300h will cost you an arm an a leg from Lexus. Hybrids needs AGM batteries and they are costly. Also Yuasa batteries in my experience are junk, they last their warranty period and that is about it. Again, at least in my experience they all died after ~3-4 years. As for why... for batteries to last car has to be regularly used and if not regularly used then they have to be trickle charged. I have never thought about it before, but since covid and since I started using car less I have ruined several batteries as I simply don't drive regularly enough and I don't have option of trickle charging.

HIDs (Xenons) with better bulbs like aforementioned Osram Nightbreakers are alright, but the Halogens in their standard form are hopeless.

Interesting solution, because standard halogens on IS250 is awful to the point where I think they are dangerous. Does the LED headlights actually illuminate better at night? Because I know some of the bulbs claims more lumens, they seems to be brighter when looking at them, but they don't illuminate any better/further at night. So the question - how is the actual experience? They still look kind of bluish, despite being 6000K, but maybe that is just how camera captures the shade, in theory 6000K should be totally white. That said I remember having 6000K xenons, 6000K LED for side-lights and 6000K halogens for high-beam... all were Osram, all were 6000K, but the shade was different on all of them. Xenon and LED was close, LED slightly bluer, but halogen was still kind of pinkish. So I guess it is more like ~6000K and actual light technology also matters. I also believe they should be fine for MOT, pattern looks identical before and after, not sure why they would pick-on it. Sure they have more lumens, but I doubt they have as much as cars with factory LED or Lasers, so as long as pattern is right I assume they should be ok.

Yeah - I wonder how much work is required to put memory in. It probably will be body control ECU (one of them) + master switch + memory switch. I know wiring for steering column should already be there. I think what would make or brake the deal would be wiring - if it is there, then it should be relatively simple, but if it isn't then world of pain. I mean I know that I definitely have all the parts for it to work, it is just a matter of figuring out what exactly is needed. But I reckon from scale of minor to the end of the world, this piece of work would be towards the harder side. Actually, I wonder if leather and ML is already retrofit on yours? Any clues? Because leather retrofit is probably most common thing ever. ML can be retrofitted, but it is much more work as wiring is different and speaker locations are different, that said if somebody was working of whole car it is doable. I myself will try to retrofit radar cruise (eventually), will see how that goes.

I know - your car is just bizzare, rear camera, but no sensors. Heated/cooled seats, but no memory? Is steering column electric? I can get you headlight washers if you want - obviously just joking (what a waste of space they are) 😄

Whole car available (except of what is already listed as gone and the frame), so anything you wish. On the serious note - I don't know if there is much of "upgrades" that can be easily retrofitted or that matter. If you had regular SE, then obvious one would be leather, but you already have leather right? Not sure if you also have memory, but that would be heck of a job to retrofit. Rear curtain - kind of minor thing, but would be absolute nightmare to fit. Electric steering column? I mean it could be done, but without memory function it kind of adds little value. Do you have parking sensors? As far as I know you needs sensors and body control module (I have all of them) and I would assume they would work with the rest of the computers, but you can never be sure and if it doesn't then you would be in deep pain trying to match all the modules (on positive side I have them all, on negative side - cost of replacing all computers for just parking sensors just wouldn't make sense). Wood trim? As far as I know most people hate it, but in theory it can be done easily and it is available.

That guy with orange RC-F must be local, because when I test drive the cars from Lexus Woodford I always get onto some local roads, then come out to M25 ~J25-27 and I seen Orange RC-F there twice. When I test drove LC500, there was Orange RC-F going anti-clockwise, when I drove ES300h, there was again Orange RC-F going clockwise. And this was like year apart, so I thought what a coincidence.

@JDM-Fiend Yeah - all SE-L sills are available (as a set, rear ones are also little bit nicer with brushed metal, not just plain plastic), vents available - not sure about condition thought from memory they are good, but need to check. Can't remember if I took rear view mirror, will need to check. I will check and let you know prices in PM.

When I had cracked mirror on SE-L, I had same issue - could never find the correct replacement. It was either auto-dimming, but not heated, or heated, but not auto-dimming. I even bought whole mirror of another S-EL, but it turned out somebody had already replaced glass for just generic mirror. I do have SE-L auto dimming/heated mirror for passenger side of the breaker car if you interested. But I am not braking it down into parts, selling whole mirror. As others said it is red however.

Rear window sill/deck covers with third brake light and central console are also gone now. Also driver side headlight and mirror are likely to go (TBC soon).

Hi Taseen, Yes have passenger mirror, but it is sold as a unit (will not part it out further). So whole mirror is for sale if you interested.

I would add that it is much easier to remove the engine from below, if there is any downside of that approach, then it would require de-gassing A/C, but apart of that removing engine from below together with gearbox is definitely much easier. Obviously, that requires decent clearance under the car, so basically lift.

That is standard on all cars delivered to Europe between ~2005 and ~2012. My EU spec. IS250 had the same - OFF>Side>ON(Auto), but ON(Auto) means it is dumb switch as soon as you turn the engine on they come on, there is no ambient sensor (well there is, but it is used for dash brightness, not for headlines) And this was the case until DLRs were introduced, then EU/UK spec. became the same again - DLR come as soon as you turn the engine and if your lights are on Auto, they also turn on as dipped beam when it get's dark. I have seen somebody here checking wiring and it is possible to rewire lights in a way that they start automatically and ignores ambient light sensor, which is kind of hit and miss.

Or why our government decided that DLRs will resolve all the problems, rather than simply make into the law to turn on the lights like most of Europe. Once drivers build that habit (and they do in few years) then you don't need technical solutions for simply turning the lights on. That said last Wednesday noticed Prius driving without lights, it was 4PM, but in this time of the year it was already getting kind of dark and then specifically looked to the plate, because it looked like rather new car... sure enough 67 plate. No lights whatsoever... And I am like "wait, but these should have DLRs from factory and it is legal requirement to fit it"... sure it is for any car after 2012, yet people go to extreme lengths disable even the DLRs (I know in US that is popular mod)... I just don't get, why would anyone want to be less visible, sure... too lazy to turn the lights on, because it is not required in UK, but actually take time specifically to disable feature that is there to make everyone safer?! The only saving grace it was white car, so not exactly easy to miss.

There seems to be particular offenders, I think Qashqai is one and few other mid size SUVs that blinds everyone. Definitely a poorly designed LEDs in dipped beam. To be fair fake Xenox are not as common now, but then you have 2 camps - the idiots that drive with DLR at night and don't understand what the issue is, or the ones that rely solely on auto high-beam and goes around blinding everyone, plus army of people with poorly adjusted lights (some of which are factory job).

Congrats.... these bloody IS250s... they are so good that it is hard to replace them! It is funny indeed, because I did similar thing 2012 F-Sport > 2010 Premium (it was US AWD, but specs wise like SE-L, but without wood grain), then 2008 SE-L and now 2006 SE-L. So spec. wise I didn't go backward, but age wise older an older. To be fair it kind of makes sense - second generation Lexus IS250 where pretty much the same throughout the years, fundamentally the same engine, gearbox, power, fuel consumption etc. What changes was only infotainment system, minor things like indicators on mirrors, DLRs, things that honestly do not matter. Infotainment is shaite either way, even back when it was new it was outdated and now it is basically irrelevant whenever it is first or last car that rolled of the line, it would be considered outdated. So it kind of makes sense to go for older model all else (vehicle condition) being equal. ML in SE is indeed very unusual and weird, so if memory serves to get ML you had to buy Navigation for £1995 and only then you could put ML option for £1000 (or am I mistaken this for MK3?) So somebody saved £3,000 on SE-L, to then spend them on ML, which to be fair in MK2 makes minor difference considering standard car had 13 speakers and ML only adds 1 speaker in the centre. Sure it goes from something like 375W to 795W in power and clarity is much improved, but apart of that it is not like MK3 that has poverty line 6 speaker stereo which is awful by default. In MK2 ML is really a marginal improvement. As for less stuff to go wrong - probably not, Lexus are not known as far as stuff going wrong is concerned. Certainly not memory seats, not wheel column - but every little helps I guess!

Did anything unusual happened during the change? like sparks of smoke coming out from anywhere? Jokes aside, there could be many things. Starting from basics - are you sure it is correct battery, correctly connected and it has at least 12V? I assume you fitted new battery, but even new things are sometimes faulty. Could you try connecting old battery if it works at all? Simple logic here - what was changed is the battery, so it is now important to eliminate the battery as the cause of issue. Other related question - why did you change the battery? Maybe it wasn't the battery issue to begin with? Anyway I am sure more information is needed before the question can be answered, at the moment it is speculation at best. P.S. It would be best to start new thread, because to be fair you issue is not related to the issue I had and you will get better responses without confusing them.

Agreed, tyres in particular are the only thing that connects you and the road, so I never compromise on that. However, premium tyres are probably within 2% of each other (worst to best) and little bit research allows even some mid range tyres in the top 5%, so I still think Michelins are best tyres around, but at the same time I am quite happy to take something like Goodyear for 20% less, knowing they are maybe 0.5% behind Michelin. In some other areas they may even be better - for example Goodyear EffcientGrip2 are considered best touring tyre around. The only reason I don't use it is because they generally do not make sizes that fit Lexus. I think they don't have anything bigger than 235s and 18", so that leaves very limited choice. Event then - I considered downsizing from 245/45R17 to 235, but EfficientGrip2 was only available in 235/50/R17 (which would kind of work), but the price was more than Michelin PS5 in correct size... so it just doesn't make sense. But for example if I had CT200, on it's 215s then EffcientGrip2 would definitely be on my list.