Linas.P

what is more horrifying - ASDA is not even worst offender, Apple and Amazon are way worse. Other absolutelly horrible person is Mike Ashley (Sports Direct)... and I mean it isn't even worth start building the list. Any company worth more than £100 million and any person worth probably more than £10 million does that, some to smaller extent some to larger.

I guess you mean injectors? Yes they are ~£500 each. I assume the only option is to find them used (~£145 each around here), maybe you can find somebody that refurbishes them? Search for part 23670-29105 in ebay. Long term I would advise getting rid of IS220d, because this model is nothing but trouble.

Yeah, exactly! As I said - big funds have to write off some cash, because for them it is like use it or lose it situation. They don't look into profits and money like me or you, for them it is more like supermarket gift coupon that expires on 1st of January. They have £538 billion in the fund, so they need to lose some value over the year, because if they keep increasing it by 8% or whatever market, then that will be worth £43billion, capital gains from that will be 20%, so they literally have £8 billion to waste! On top of that most likely the investment in company like Lucid may be considered desirable and there may be government grands for it, so not only that they don't pay tax investing in such company, but they as well get grants for it! Now I am not saying nobody should invest in companies like Lucid, I am just saying what looks $billions lost and "making loss per car" first of all is just normal for any capital investment, secondly they not even losing anything. At least in 19th Century when magnates were building railway they used their own fortune up front, not same magnate equivalents using tax savings on building that capital (although I am not sure there were no such scheme in 19th century either).

No a fair comparison - you comparing 5L V8 vs. 2.5L V6 - IS250 will never sound like IS-F, but it sounds decent enough. Not that I would advise having semi-straight pipes on daily car, but it is possible to make IS250 to sound little bit more proper.

Yeah in some location in central London, Cambridge, Oxford and few other anti-car cities they have "decibel cameras", although if you nor revving your car it should be fine, even straight piped IS250 would not be very loud when idling. So you can do whatever you like as long as you pass emissions... and by "straight pipes" - I mean leaving primary catalytic converters in place (removing them would be immoral and illegal), but removing everything after that (secondary cats, resonator, back-boxes/silencers). The car will NOT sound like that (because this is American completely straight pipe - nothing left in terms of catalytic converters + you get "Christmas tree on the dash" as a bonus or maybe o2 sensors are plugged). But it will sound somewhat loud when revved:

Beautiful car and seems to be fully loaded, can't really tell you how much you should ask for, but if you not in the rush, then just buy the highest cost package from Auto-traded (it is £60-80 if memory serves), list it there and forget about it (it allows you unlimited number of re-lists). Cars like this will take some time to sell privately. I was selling my RC200t which I would argue is even less desirable, but the car had every option, had full dealer history, was detailed and kept in the garage under the cover and I didn't budge at all on price. I bought it just pre-pandemic December 2019 form Lexus for £15,500, I have listed it for £19,000 and after 8 months guy came and picked-it up for £19,000... I think all he got from me was 80% full tank and keychain. When cars have all options and are in great condition there is no basis to negotiate the price, I literally said to few buyers "I will not negotiate over the phone, come, see the car if you find any imperfection then we can negotiate", the first guy that came could not find any issue, measured paint thickness etc. All was perfect. He was the only one who came and he bought the car. My car had 54,000 miles, but bear in mind this was the middle of pandemic and the highest price point ever. I have seen he tried to sell the car again last year for £20,000 and it sold, I just doubt it sold for £20,000 as the prices were already on the way down. Your car with 20k miles and all option should not have issues selling and I doubt there is anything to pick-on, just some time to wait for the right buyer.

Depends on time perspective, yes it is probably weakest in like 4 years -yes! But we forgetting how ridiculous were the priced during pandemic. So it may be little bit down for many RC-F to be under £30k now, but it is not unusual at all, in 2016-2017 there were already RC-F for £25,000, bare in mind those where 3 year old cars back then, now they are 8 year old cars. The cheapest one I can remember was white on black basic model (meaning no-TVD, no-PCS, no-Sunroof) with £40k miles for £23,888 - that is in 2016 or maybe 2017! There was another white with sunroof and red seats for £24,000 with 36k miles, I should have taken screenshots really as it is hard to prove now. And the prices were around this point (£25-30k) between 2016 and 2019, then pandemic kicked in and suddenly all RC-Fs become £32,000+ (except one Cat-N that was lingering for a while at £16,000-£19,000 price point with very horrible repair job, I even considered PX-in my RC200t for it with RC-F owner paying some money to me, but ended-up deciding against such foolish move). That said I agree on perspective - it seems that pandemic craze is going away and cars will start depreciating again, or have already started catching-up with were they should be. Note as well that IS-F at this stage in their life (~8 years old) were already getting close to £10,000... the nicer ones where like £14,000-£16,000. So if RC-F were to catch-up with depreciation levels it mean to have had if not for pandemic, then the prices could really look bleak for current owners looking to sell.

Don't forget that loss could be offset by tax write-offs, this is how all UK Insurance companies claims not to make any profit ever. As well this "$225,000 loss per car" is horrible misinterpretation of what is going on. They simply divided total money lost, by the number of cars sold and that is the figure. It does not mean they selling cars at loss, but for company that is growing it's market share and developing new products this is normal. If it costed them $2 billion to build a factory and they only sold 15,000 cars for $50,000 each, then you inevitably making $1.25 billion loss. Even if to build each car only costs $15000 and they making gross profit of $35000 per car. Making net loss in the end is normal for new company which is building capacity and market share, and it is beneficial for investment fund as they write-off loses against taxes. It is basically free money they write-off and tax payers are basically picking-up the bill. Because when we lose money we lose money, but when fund loses money they just offset their taxes from gains elsewhere.

I didn't say you were the one who burned it - I am just saying it was not fixed correctly. First of all it is a fuse and fuses are not repairable as rule of thumb, so as Colin suggested - bypassing the burn contact is not a great idea. Secondly, fuses usually does not burn without other fault, so there is likely some other fault to be fixed before you replace fusible link. Replacing fusible link is little bit fiddly, but not a disaster, it took me maybe 2 hours. That cables are cut - that is not an issue at all, they are screwed in with screws, so having cables there are actually nice as reference (otherwise just take the picture before removing them). BUT - as I said, you need to find the issue first, just replacing fusible link is likely blow the new one again if the issue is not fixed. So - identify and fix the issue and get new fusible link then.

Okey... I think now I understand what is going on... So you had blown combination fuse (also know as fusible link) i.e. this thing: THEY ARE NOT REPAIRABLE... you have to replace them. Now further I suspect that somebody messed with your car electronics and the reason it was blown is something else. So basically you fixed it, it worked for some time, something shorted again as it was not fixed and you back to the problem you had. You need serious auto electrician here, first they need to find what is blowing your fusible link, there will be short somewhere, but Lexus IS is not the simplest car when it comes to electrical problem troubleshooting (they are reliable, but if somebody comes and messes them-up it is real nightmare to find the issue), then they need to replace fusible link.

Just word of caution here - being final model year of the car, your car came with facelifted headlights and tail lights. I understand they may not be to your taste, but they are THE MOST EXPENSIVE lights bar non for this car model (well I guess IS-F rear tail-lights are more rare and expensive). As well being last revision of Xenons in front they are the best in terms of actually lighting-up the road and vision at night. So whatever you fit performance and price wise will be a downgrade. I understand you may want something different style and modernise the car and that is fine, just don't throw what you have away. At least £600 for pair of fronts and probably £300 for pair of rears. Apart of that you, in terms of quality everything will be downgrade, so I would not worry too much, choose the style you like, make sure they have correct markings (i.e. being certified and legal to use in UK) and that is about it. Vlands are standard option, Vland basically is generic name nowadays for aftermarket lights on Lexus, real Vlands are semi-decent (not as good as what you replacing, but not terrible), but there are loads of horrible quality Vland lookalikes. One other thing to note when ordering - you will need lights without AFS and with DLR, they are slightly different connectors (or internal wiring) and I believe lights for your car will be slightly more expensive. Majority of the lights you will find will be designed for older model trying to imitate face-lift lights you already have, so they have AFS connection but not DLR, I know that DLR compatible aftermarket lights exist, but you need to make sure you get right ones. For exhaust, the cheapest mod and the one I recommend you to start with - just cut the resonator that comes after Y joint, that will generally make car louder, but should not drone. SS tends to drone (just properties of the material), seems fine at first but very quickly get's old. If you still not satisfied with sound after cutting the resonator out, then replace rear section of exhaust with smaller silencers, but at this point you may want to put some sort of resonator back, even if it is just straight perforated pipe inside. Generally speaking IS250 does sound nice, but not exceptional, it is V6... it is possible to straight pipe them for maximum effect and they don't sound too horrible, but the question is how antisocial you want to go, or if you want to keep it civil. I have already answered your bumper question.

Easier to show than explain, so below clip shows exactly what you need to do in this case. The only thing I would do differently - I would not use my finger to dab it, there are tools for that. Or if you need to use the finger (sometimes you just want thin layer, but really push it into the scratch and not make too much of the hump, hence he is using finger) then put nitrile glove on it. Kind of weird that he used brush with glove, but then he used his finger without them... anyway enough nit picking, the results were great. Will never be perfect, but nobody apart of you will know that:

I know that in Lexus sunroof robs quite a lot of space (like 2 inches), not sure specifically about 2010 LS, but if you have option of DVD which is mounted in the middle, maybe it takes further space away from the headroom, if both sunroof and DVD are combined, maybe that adds-up to your issue.

To be honest 5th seat in any saloon/sedan is kind of afterthought, being LS-L it is certainly has more space than most of other cars in the rear. I would not say it is only good for a child, although to be honest my experience is based on rending LS460L in Bahrain and it was 5 fully grown men in the car and I don't remember anyone complaining about space. Is it as comfortable as other two seats? - no, obviously it isn't and that is true for any car. The point of it is really just to open the arm rest (which ideally should have spaceship like controls) and be used for two people in the back. Now to be fair rear seat comfort was never my priority, so perhaps I didn't pay too much attention to it, but even normal LS has ample space in the back and LS-L, really shouldn't be short of it, but middle seat will remain middle seat. Perhaps SUV/MPV would be better for sitting 3 in the back.

8L is still way high, especially at relatively low speed of 110km/h, it should be closer to 6L at those speeds. Not sure what you mean by "convert".

Usually - less characters means higher price. As for standard plates - they are basically worthless, unless they have special meaning for somebody, but that is key problem - possibility of finding that somebody is slim, and for them to be willing to pay more than £250 for it is even smaller. There are some key words, I know V8 or V12 has some demand, RCF would be good combo, but as already mentioned RCFs are rare, so if we have to compare say M4 or RC-F, M4 will be much more valuable, because there are so many more people who may want to buy it. So logic - private plate prices are usually symbolic outside of known combos. 2 characters are £100k+, 3-4 - £10k+, all the rest (except standard) are ~£1000 +/- £1000 based on relevance e.g. I can see V8 RCF selling for £2000 easily. All the standard plates are sub-£1000. For example once upon the time I bought car with LP03LEX, pure coincidence that somebody put plate with "LEX" 2008 IS250 and it just happened to match my initials, so for me it was kind of nice touch and completely free, but for anyone else it isn't worth even £100 and to be fair I myself would not spend money on such plate. Another total coincidence, when I had said 2008 IS250, there was another 2008 IS250 in the country, black SE-L exactly like mine with plate L1 NAS... don't know what happened to the car, I think plate was later on Ford Transit van and now it is not in use anymore. That probably would be worth some money for me, but for 99.9999% of British people it is meaningless. Remember my mate long time ago got car with E8 PUR, the seller said "the plate alone is £1500"... no it isn't, as far as I know car got scrapped with that plate and nobody ever considered preserving it, it is meaningless and worthless. Would it be V8 PUR - another story!

Poor fuel economy would be a symptom. Clogged DPF would be a symptom for loss of power, but usually it does not cause as bad fuel consumption as you have, it could prevent turbo to spool-up, so again you will be down on power and have higher consumption, but your one is very high. Not sure if you used correct MPG for conversion (there are american units as well), but 20MPG in UK means nearly 14L/100km - that is very bad for IS220d. Especially if you running on motorway more you should expect 6-8L/100km, 10L would be already quite high. I mean I have better MPG in GS300 which is heavier 3L petrol v6. As well clogged DPF probably would send car in limp mode, so it would be quite apparent it is clogged... that is obviously if you car has DPF in the first place.

Running rich and bad fuel economy? Could be leaking injector and you would be down on power due to that. How was engine power measured? Measuring WHP and and adding 20% on top? Dyno results should always be taken with grain of salt, at minimum you need to know all the corrections they did to actual measurement and even then one can have huge difference going from one dyno to another. I know people use dyno to brag about things, but dyno is actually suppose to be used for completely different purpose - it only measure difference between baseline and modification. So let's say you blocked-off EGR that made 5hp difference, that is what dyno can confirm, but whenever car makes 140 or 170 hp really depends on what is being measured and what is being corrected. Just based on dyno settings alone same car can do 80hp or 400hp, so I would take 146hp "at the engine" with the grain of salt. Your plan is solid - if you can get it mapped to run more efficiently, then it may actual prolong the life of the engine 25MPG is awful and I think that is where you should start. Not with the power, but with fuel consumption. Blocked fuel filter will not cause high consumption, but there is not no downside replacing it. My bet would be issues with injectors, or 5th injector, need to look at the live data or do injector leak/ volume test and see if all of them at least injecting equal amounts, if 5th injector is not stuck open etc.

E-mail usually does the trick 🙂 It counts same as recoded delivery in court as well, not that I suggest taking anyone to court over some extra oil!

Here you go - https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/71931743/2014-lexus-ls-460-lux-sandy Donor for 4.6L 1UR, quite a big shunt, but engine is unlikely to be damaged and it will go cheap as nobody needs LS parts, especially not 2014 ones. Lexus sold like 2 of them in UK (and one is sadly now gone)...

Sometimes... Some "professional only" ceramic coatings require heaters, I don't think it overall gives harder surface, but it get's to full hardness much quicker. So let's say it requires 24-48 hours to cure normally, and with IR heater that can be achieved in 4 hours, so it saves time for detailer/customer and car be picked-up in the same day. As well it removes risk - because IR is required to cure the coating, sunlight naturally has IR, but then you have dilemma - park it outside to get "sun cured" and risk the rain (very topical in UK I heard) or even dust, splatter, stupid kids touching it whatever it may be, or you leave it garaged, but then cure time is exponentially longer. In summer that usually is not a problem, but how much of proper summer do we get in UK? This year I would say none at all!

Well... so technically I can't advise you because you have blocked EGR... that would be illegal modification and that is against forum rules to discuss. As for power in itself - IS220d is rated for 177hp at the crank, so if you got 146hp at the wheels that is more or less correct... if it was already adjusted for transmission loss (which would be arbitrary 10-20%) then yes it is a bit lower, but the car is 240,000 kilometres, so obviously it won't have as much power as new car. Reasons - many... don't even know where to start. In your case case could be DPF, but removing it is ABSOLUTELLY illegal and immoral. Try forced regen and try not to use car for short journeys, as well use 5th gear more on longer trips and keep revs high, that helps DPF to clean-up a little bit. As well I would advise against mapping the car, not to gain power anyway. These cars already struggle with the power they have and pop headgaskets, Toyota solution... upgrade headgasked and de-tune to 150hp... so you half way there with your power already, consider that a good thing as it makes car more reliable. If you add power to it - you asking for trouble, these cars are just not good for tuning.

That is very true - I have once done ceramic in winter, not sure what month but temperature outside was ~ 4C and I do have garage, but it is not heated, so let's say 10C inside. Applied the coating and it just doesn't flash off, after hour, after day... so car ended-up all splotchy and I had to polish it again. I thought it is shaite coating or something, later used same coating in the summer (say 20C) and it was amazing to work with, flashed off in 10 minutes as per instructions, buffed off easily and everything was fine. So yes - application temperature is something to consider, for most ceramic coating to work the temp should be 20C+.

Paint protection of any sort only lasts 2-3 years at best. Sure best in business ceramic coatings claim they can last 5-10 years if cared for properly, but because you buying used car and you don't know how it was cared for I would just assume it does not have it, or if it had it, then it is long past it's best to use date. That said - I do not recommend dealer applied protection, they just not good at it, product is good, but their application is bad. Ceramic coating in particular require proper preparation, basically all car polished and cleaned carefully, and that is just not in average dealers capability, they most likely will send their "best" cleaner to do it (and I am not even joking! literally the guy from agency on minimal wage who cleans the floor). So my recommendation - buy the car and find detailer you trust (in my case that is only myself) and get pain protection properly applied.

I think this may be true with older (i.e. not modern) cars, where tolerances and compression is low. But if you do it on modern engine, chances are your rod will upgrade themselves to wireless functionality. Basically it is same as hydro locking, oil cannot be compressed, tolerances are tight so what gives... pins, rods, maybe even rings, something will. Now I said that myself - I had overfilled this engine just slightly and it was okey, how much tolerance of overfilling could it tolerate... I doubt anyone knows. If it would be myself who overfilled it I may think about options, but as it was dealer - I would let them handle it, they have to, answer "it will be okey" is not okey, because if you come back with blown engine I doubt they will say "oopsie we will cover it".