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About Antharro

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  1. Mileage is 150k. The car was looked after well by the first couple of owners (as far as I could tell from the history I could get from the dealers) but the owner who had it before me couldn't have cared less about it and maintenance was extremely lacking. Oil level looks fine - it's just below the top level on the stick. The valve I've marked as "always open" is not the PCV; that's on the other bank of the engine. This one seems to be putting out air all the time; it's not high volume but it's constant - if I put my finger on it and block it, I'll feel a build up of pressure, but it's not hard or painful to keep my finger on it. @steve2006I'll have a look at the oil filler cap tomorrow and report back. I have a compression tester - how do I do a test on this engine? Disconnect all the coil packs and remove spark plug from one cylinder at a time, then crank a couple of times? What reading should I be looking for? Thanks everyone so far!
  2. Where is all this oil coming from? For anyone not familiar with my LS430, it has oil problems, in that it smokes like a chimney when it wants to. In January (I think), it was diagnosed as either valve stem seals or piston rings - either way, beyond economical repair. And then the alternator started acting up. I was going to sell it, but then the lockdown happened and it's sat in my yard since. I've started it a couple of times since then. On a couple of occasions it's smoked REALLY heavily, and on a couple of occasions it hasn't. Just like how it was when I was daily driving it. After reading about the power steering pump leaking and causing power steering fluid to be pulled into the engine and causing smoke, and also dripping onto the alternator and causing alternator failure, I thought I'd have a look and see what I could find. I removed the entire air intake system. I could immediately see the shine of oil on the bottom of the throttle body valve. This is what I could see when I looked inside. Pretty sure all that oil shouldn't be there, right? I looked back through the various pipes and ductwork to see where the oil might be coming from. The pipe coming from the PCV valve was oily at both ends. I cleaned it and replaced it. There was another pipe coming from the other bank, which went into the underside of the thin box that feeds into the main air intake. This was also oily on both sides. I also noticed that one of the pipes from the power steering pump was particularly grubby, and looking below it on the alternator, there was evidence that a liquid had leaked onto it and dried off (from the car being sat for a couple of months). Lastly, the main air intake pipe had a small amount of oil residue in the "left" or "cold" side, and a larger amount on the side that connected with the valve. I tried running the engine and putting my finger over the pipe which resulted in a slight build up of pressure, which released with a "pshhhhhhhh" sound when I removed my finger. My theory is this - there's oil coming from the PCV valve, and from the pressure outlet pipe on the other side of the engine. There's probably also power steering fluid coming from the power steering pump. This builds up, gets sucked into the engine and burns off as nasty smelling blue/white smoke. But I have no idea how to confirm this, and I have no idea how to fix it, so any help would be appreciated! Lastly, what is the box I've pointed to in the pictures above, and what's inside it?
  3. Thank you all for the feedback, especially you, @steve2006. Definitely something I will look at for my ailing 430.
  4. The fault on the LS400 which sucks power steering fluid into the engine via vacuum lines - does this affect the LS430 as well or is it strictly an LS400 problem? Thanks!
  5. Welcome. 🙂 Get the radiator changed before it grenades and wrecks your transmission! And ideally get a proper transmission cooler fitted. Then, check all four airbags for wear along with their linkages, then assuming all's well, check it's up to date on servicing including auto box and rear diff fluid. With all that done, you'll be good to go!
  6. Hi forum, Another question about my LS430. I had a new rad and auto box fitted a couple of years ago. (Changing the rad was on the list but I forgot about it and it failed... usual consequences). Recently, it's developed a seemingly minor, but annoying problem. Changing the direction of travel can cause an unpleasant jolt when power is applied. This is tricky to explain, so please bear with me. If I've reversed into a parking spot, when I come back to the car and put it in drive, I will feel the transmission engage the gear, but if I don't wait for a couple of seconds before applying power, it will jolt. It feels like it's engaging the gear heavily, (equivalent to dropping the clutch in a manual), except I've already felt the box engage the gear and felt the car "lean" in the direction I've selected and felt the engine take the load. If I then put it in drive, let the engine take the load, put it back into neutral then back into park, and the car hasn't moved at all, there will not be a jolt. If it's moved, even slightly, there will be a jolt. The severity of the jolt depends on how much the car has moved in the opposite direction to the gear engaged. So if it's rolled backwards only a couple of cm in neutral, and I engage drive, the jolt will be minimal. The larger the distance, the larger the jolt. I can reproduce the problem worse by shifting from D to R, backing up a little way, braking to a stop, shifting to park then accelerating. It will jolt in whichever gear I select as long as it's the opposite direction to the one it was in previously. I can exacerbate the problem by reversing, coming to a stop, engaging drive and accelerating very lightly (maybe up to 900-1000rpm) band NOT giving it an extra couple of seconds after feeling the engine take the load. I'll feel the car engage the gear but there'll be an almighty jolt. Works from R to D and D to R. So to get a completely smooth shift, I have to engage the gear, then wait 2-3 seconds before moving (with my foot on the brake). This is fine if I'm at home but if I'm holding up other people in a car park while I try and get into a space, it's damned inconvenient for everyone. I had a local garage look at this, and they noted that the "slide joint in the propshaft" was completely dry. They disassembled it, lubricated and reassembled it, which helped a little, but the fault is still present. My hunch on this is that there's no fault on the gearbox. It shifts smoothly for 98% of the time and hasn't given me any indication that there's anything wrong with it - no hard shifts between gears, it kicks down fine, and it's happy downshifting using the gear stick, although occasionally lazy when forcing it from 3rd to 2nd, especially if I'm going down a hill - but it does it smoothly. The gearbox oil was changed last month I feel the problem is either something to do with the prop shaft joint or the rear diff. The gearbox engages the gear, forcing the prop to turn slightly in one direction as it engages. (If the car was brand new then I wouldn't expect any movement of the prop until the brake is released as everything would be new and within tolerances). If the prop is changing direction (i.e., R -> D or D -> R) then there's play in something which results in the jolt. The jolt is exacerbated by light acceleration because it makes the prop change direction faster and therefore the play is felt more strongly as whatever it is moves and then stops suddenly.My other feeling backing this up is that my mechanics tried to change the oil in the diff but the bolt was so seized that they felt they would snap it - so it hasn't been changed in a very long time. Edit just to clarify - the jolt is significantly worse when I shift gear with my foot on the brake. If I shift without my foot on the brake, I'll feel both "stages" - the gearbox engaging/engine taking the load, and what would be the jolt - except it isn't because the brakes aren't holding the car. Hope that clarifies and this isn't too long - it's a tricky thing to explain! Does anyone have any experience with this, or any ideas? Thanks!
  7. Hi forum, Over the last couple of years, my LS430 has occasionally put out a couple of seconds of blue smoke at start-up. It clears quickly and seems to be fine for a while. Once it smoked for several seconds, again at start, but it has never done that again. I hadn't thought about it until I was driving up the M3 today. I needed to accelerate hard out of a tight situation so put my foot down. The box shifted down as normal but once the revs got up, an amount of blue smoke came out of the exhaust, heavy enough that both lanes dropped back a little. It cleared within a few seconds and did not do it again for the remaining journey up to London, or on the journey back, where it behaved itself perfectly. It hasn't had an oil change in a while, but what's in there is a decent colour and there's enough of it. The only other thing I've noticed is there is a very slight top end tap, like a tappet or valve tap. It's only really noticeable under acceleration. It still sounds quite lovely at higher rpms! I've also found fuel consumption is down; I would expect around 25-27mpg on a motorway run - I once got 30mpg on a run to Gatwick and back to Dorset in the middle of the night! Currently it's getting around 23-24 on a motorway run. I've read up on both this forum and the US forum, and it would seem to be either valve stem seals or the PCV valve (or both?) - what does the forum think? The car has 161k miles. Thanks!
  8. My LS430 has two problems and I'm wondering if they're related. 1) Sometimes, the ignition switch won't turn, regardless of if the key is in it or not. The car definitely recognizes that the key is present. I understand this is related to a sticky "Column Tube Stopper", which I assume should unlock when the car either detects the key either physically or electrically present. A hard jerk of the wheel in each direction seems to fix it. I would like to find a permanent cure. 2) Occasionally, the car won't start. It will turn over and turn over and turn over but won't fire. Priming the fuel pump a couple of times makes no difference. When it eventually fires up, it's on all eight cylinders, no skipping, mis-firing or other problems, smooth as it should be. It only does this when hot. Is it possible that these are both electrical problems relating to the car not fully de-immobilising? Or something about the key detection not working and therefore not letting the car run?
  9. Right, I've had a play. I certainly can't get it to work as three zones. Disregarding the rear for a moment, the front can work as two zones. However when I use the rear controls, BOTH front zones are affected - adjusting the temperature in the rear adjusts both of the front temperatures. If the front zones are set at different temperatures, then the difference between the two will be maintained, however both will be adjusted 0.5 degrees for each press of the rear controls (up or down), and the rear temperature will be the same as the driver's temperature. So if the front are set to 20.0 and 25.5 degrees, then turning up the rear temperature will adjust the front to 20.5 and 26.0, then 21 / 26.5, etc, and the driver's temperature will show on the rear temperature display. This happens regardless of whether the rear controls are set to manual or not. The car has its original A/C plumbing - no capping here. Does this seem right?
  10. Hi all. Trying to figure out something about the rear climate control. When the rear temperature is adjusted, it changes the driver's temperature, not the front passenger. I can see how this would work for US cars, with left hand drive, as it would mean the driver is in one "zone" and the passengers are in a second "zone". But surely this should have been switched around for the right hand drive models? Doesn't seem to make much sense to have the rear passengers messing with the driver's temperature?
  11. This, combined with this cable. Works nicely and leaves me an extra USB for my FM transmitter or for charging the phone etc.
  12. Same here. The charger for my dashcam (mini USB connector on the camera end, 5v DC) was causing interference in my LS430. I had the wire stuck in the gap between the top glove box door and the dash then run into the socket inside the arm rest. I was going to tidy it up so took the opportunity to replace the cigarette adapter end with a standard (good quality) dual USB power supply, and ran a new, high grade 5m cable along the inside of the centre console, behind the glove boxes, up the A-pillar, then into the roof lining to the cam. Bam, interference gone and much neater wiring!
  13. Just a little under £550. The bearing price was over half of that, and they did two road tests - before and after.
  14. To all of you who suggested wheel bearing, you were correct! Give yourselves a gold star. :) My local Lexus dealership had a cancelled appointment on Friday, so replaced it. I picked it up on Saturday, all done! And they washed and hoovered it! :) Thanks! :)