-Rich-

Very expensive! As mentioned above Lexus parts direct do a service kit which includes all filters too. https://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-ct/lexus-ct-2010-onwards/lexus-ct-engine-service-kits/lexus-ct-phase-1-service-kit/ If you are DIY'ing it you'll need the oil filter housing tool as well.

When I get 10 minutes I'll do one. If you remove the black sensor (2 phillips screws), then take the magnet and spring off you can push the outer part of the plunger. It was always stiff so I used to squirt WD40 on it to free it up but it didn't last long. The photo above where it's gunked up, I wasn't holding it open, it stayed in that position when I pushed the rod. A good clean and soak in carb cleaner overnight it's as good as new with no resistance.

I'll send an email off but I won't be expecting a reply. My brother used to work for Lexus (non technician role) and even he warned me they're just as bad as other dealers despite being a premium brand. I only used them for the family discount on servicing. He no longer works for them now. I don't usually buy cars this new (when we got it) so do my own servicing too, this is the first time I've used a dealer. It'll probably be the last apart from when recalls are due. Yep you guessed right! Although they were quick to fail on a blown bulb and then pass it. Then another time on worn wipers but replaced them first. I take my other cars to my MOT guy and I look under the car's at the same time. Obviously at Lexus I'm in the reception. The MOT was due last month but with Covid it's been extended to December so gives me time to sort it out. I won't be using Lexus any more now I don't get the discount!

Looks like they're the fuel filler pipes! 😞 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114070523097

It's been serviced every year at Lexus from new. That's not happened overnight so it's very disappointing they didn't mention it. From this year I'm self-servicing anyway. The car has only done about 1500 miles in the last year as well. I didn't trace the pipes but I've a feeling they might be for fuel, but would they really leave them so exposed to the elements?

While refitting the exhaust heat shield back on I noticed these pipes that are very rusty. I'm wondering what they're for and if I should do anything about them? We've had the car for nearly 4 years and it was 5 years old when we bought it. We don't live near the sea but I think the previous owner did!

I got it sorted in the end. What I didn't realise was that the pin the EGR is mounted on with the nut on the end can actually be removed! So I took that out, assembled the EGR and pipe back together off the car then refitted. Now I've done it once the next time will be alot easier. The valve was completely carb'd up and I'm not surprised it kept sticking! I've not driven the car for 4 months so had forgotten what it's like but it seems to be more responsive now when accelerating. It's not juddered yet but I've only been out in it twice. Does anyone want me to do a guide on how to remove it with photos?

I need some help! Got the EGR off, cleaned it up and started to refit it earlier. To remove it I had to separate the bottom part of the valve (where the pipe attaches) to the top half. There was no way to pull the valve off the long stud in one piece. The problem I've got is I can't get one of the bolts back on. The pipe that runs alongside it and is part of the cooler covers the hole slightly. So I can't get the bolt to line up so the thread catches. I must've had the socket on at an angle when I undid. You can see the thread in the gap on this photo. The pipe next to it can't be removed unless I undo all the coolant hoses and separate the valve from the cooler. But even if I did that I can't see how I can get the 2 bolts at the bottom of the cooler in to the holes while getting it on to the longer stud under the valve. Whoever designed this valve needs shooting!! 🙄

For any one who has removed the egr valve but left the cooler in place how did you undo the nut nearest the engine? I have loosened the 2 nuts and 1 bolt holding the cooler to the block. That lower nut is a sod to reach and I've not removed it completely for fear of losing it. The cooler is only moving about 5mm and isn't even hitting the nut. Is it the pipe at the bottom that's stopping it from moving further away? If it is I guess I'm in for more scraped knuckles! I have removed the pipe and it's gunked up with carbon so the valve will definitely need cleaning.

After talking to my brother it seems Lexus don't even stamp the book if you use the essential service. So that's definitely made my mind up for me! I've come across an offer that Lexus Parts Direct are doing for an intermediate service kit under £60. That's £20 cheaper than what I've found on eBay and I should hopefully get a proper receipt to show I've used genuine parts. https://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-ct/lexus-ct-2010-onwards/lexus-ct-engine-service-kits/lexus-ct-phase-1-service-kit/ Should I get the oil filter tool as well, will this fit the CT? I have seen cheaper ones on eBay/Amazon but some have longer delivery times and I'd imagine the quality isn't as good. If anyone could recommend a tool I'll be grateful. https://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-rc-f/lexus-rc-f-2014-onwards/lexus-rc-f-engine-service-kits/lexus-oil-filter-removal-tool-a/

Thanks all 🙂 I had been getting the car serviced at Guildford but Hatfield is probably my closest if either of those do gold member discounts? The 100k mile service from Lexus is £570. My initial plan was to get full Lexus servicing until this service was done and then self-service. Obviously with losing my relatives discount I would have to pay full price, which I can't afford to do or want to pay TBH. With the car only being on 80k miles I don't think it's worth paying for coolant changes yet, which is basically the extra thing that is done on the 100k mile/10 year service over a major one. The car has just turned 9 years so I would probably do all the coolant and other fluids myself next year. Or if I could find a decent hybrid specialist get them to do it. The Lexus minor essential service (so an oil change) for a car over 5 years old is £175 but this also includes the Hybrid battery check, which is £59 on it's own. So add that to a service kit from ebay (I assume these are genuine?) which is £60 I could get the essential service done for £55 more and get the Lexus stamp too. It didn't help that Lexus has extended the warranty to 15 years providing it's checked when scheduled, as I was going to self service from when this expired! Sorry if I'm sounding petty but I have always just bought cheap cars, serviced them myself and run them until they were sold on with very little value or scraped. This is the first car I've ever had serviced anywhere never mind at a dealers. I hate spending money if I can DIY it but as the car is still quite valuable I don't want to risk compromising that. Could spending that £570 and selling in a years time make the car worth a little more compared to me doing everything and not getting the book stamped. Does anyone else service their own cars and from what age?

Colin, where have you read that? The Ctek manual says nothing about that but the Lexus one says to disconnect the negative cable whenever recharging the battery, which seems to defeat the purpose of using the comfort lead. From reading the Ctek manual it seems AGM and Recond modes shouldn't be used together and it's for normal mode only. But yes it does charge at a higher voltage so if I was to use the recond mode I would definitely remove it from the car first. The Lexus manual also says to charge the battery at 4.2A or less or it could explode! I have the Ctek MXS 5.0 which charges at 5A, the MXS 3.8 is probably the better charger for the Lexus unless the one I have can automatically adjust the amperage? Although the manual suggests it doesn't. I have used the Ctek on batteries for both my other cars and they are also under 5A too but they're also not worth much and don't have sensitive/complex electrics like the CT does so I just connected them off the car and charged. It's going to be a PITA to keep removing it on the CT though. This is definitely overthinking things now and I'm sure Lexus's wording is just covering themselves - the manuals for other cars probably say the same! BoutTime, as you have the same model Ctek as me and have used the comfort lead I'm going to assume there were no issues.

How did you connect the comfort lead? I've never looked at the battery so not sure if there are bolts for the eyelet connecters. The lead is still in the box so I may just connect it to the battery. With the batteries on my other cars I've always disconnected them and charged in the house as it's easier. But I'm not sure if removing the battery will mess with any of the electrics and things might need resetting.

We've had the car for 3.5 years. It's always been serviced by Lexus as I used to get a discount through a relative, however they have now left the job. It's a 2011 car with 80k miles. The last service was the 90k one and the 100k is due in June. I'm not paying the Lexus price for the 100k mile service and TBH I don't think it really needs it. If I got the essential service so basically an oil change could that put people off if we do sell it? We don't use the car much so we may sell it soon. I thought about self servicing and then a hybrid check by Lexus but I don't think it would save me much cash.

That reminds me I still haven't taken the EGR off to clean it, but then we're barely doing any mileage in it ATM. I've had to remove the cover and free the pin up a couple of times since my last post though so it needs doing. I did buy the parts to clean it so I'll try and do it next week as I'm off work.

We haven't used our CT for about a month now. I have a ctek 5.0 charger but haven't used it on this car yet. If I set it to AGM and recondition mode is it best to connect it directly to the battery or will the terminals under the bonnet be ok? Do the doors need to be opened/closed like it says for jump starting? Roughly how long should it take to charge the battery in this mode? I would need to run a cable from the house to the car on the driveway and don't want to be leaving a window or the car open overnight. I'm assuming the battery will be nearly fully charged already so I think it should be done within 6 hours as it's quite small. I've had some batteries take almost a day.

Yes I did see that, have you done this on the CT yourself? One nut at the rear looks like it has no access at all.

After spraying the EGR the juddering went for about 6 months and then started again. I sprayed it again and it's not done it since so I want to remove the valve and clean it properly. I've read one of the nuts is a bugger to access and various parts need removing. I can't find where I read that though, does anyone know what needs to be removed to access the nut?

Where did you spray the carb cleaner on the EGR, on the rod part after removing the magnet and spring or somewhere else? I've also got no CEL or error codes so it's difficult to guage what could be happening. Injector cleaner is a good idea. With the low miles the car is doing ATM it probably needs some. What brand do you use?

Were there any updates to this, did you remove the EGR to clean it? I want to do mine to see if it's the cause of an issue but looking at videos for the Prius a rear nut looks to be PITA to remove. The rod on my EGR isn't smooth when it's pushed in and out so seems to be sticking.

Just an update. After starting the thread it was ok for a month or so but the last few weeks something doesn't feel right. The engine seems to be pulsing when driving along now (not as noticeable as before), even when the battery isn't being charged so I don't think it's that. Earlier today it was doing it for most of a 23 mile drive but on the way back it didn't do it. The car hasn't been used much since May and when it has they're mainly short journeys. It's been suggested to me that the EGR could be faulty. I took the cap off and spring then pressed the rod into the valve. Although it didn't get stuck and sprung out it doesn't feel particularly smooth and does stick on the way in/out. How easy is the EGR valve to remove so I can clean it? What can I use on the rod to try and lubricate it and see if this stops the problem?

I didn't check the battery level but that would explain why it didn't go into EV mode. I didn't realise the engine would stay running to charge the battery if the car was stationery. I'll check that if it does it again.

Yes it could be described as shuddering as well. I've never experienced a misfire so I'm not sure but there were no codes and it drove fine earlier that day. As I entered the car park before it started doing it I hit a pot hole which was quite deep so I don't know if that was connected. It had the full 80k service at Lexus 10 weeks a go and has full dealer history so things like spark plugs should be good. Unless one is faulty. The mileage is around 75k I think. I've never experienced this before on any other car so it was a bit alarming when it happened. The car had been used for 30 minutes, then left for 2 hours before I did the 2 mile drive so the engine wouldn't have been stone cold. The MOT is being done in 4 weeks at Lexus so I'll mention it to them if it doesn't do it again.

Something really strange happened the other day. I did a short drive (2 miles) and when I got there I put the car in park and handbrake on. The engine was still running though, usually it goes in to EV mode but it was also pulsing. It could be felt through the car and my passenger felt it too. Before turning the car off I drove it around the car park I was in, stopped again and it was still doing it. So I turned it off, did what I needed to do for an hour and when I started the car again it was fine and has been since. Anyone know what happened? 🤔

Ours is on 70k miles and had it since 59k, not topped it up once. The engine doesn't use any oil at all unlike my other car!