NothernDan

An extra shot, admittedly from a while back now, that shows the wheels off a bit more. Airlift is, of course, optional 😎

After a recent upgrade, the (micro-)famous Aston Martin V8 Vantage Speedline wheels are up for sale.

Pics of the wheels below as well as a shot of them on the car. £575 to a forum member.

These will fit straight on the ISF with no rubbing using 15mm spacers all round and longer captive bolts.

These have been refurbed in dark metallic anthracite and I ran them with the genuine Aston centre caps you see them pictured with.

I've gone to Rotiform wheels now so these are up for grabs.

If you want to see any more pics of them on the car check my Instagram feed at @isf_dan or drop me a DM for more pics of you are not on Instagram.

@Flytvr according to the site you cannot receive PMs mate?!? 

I would probably be interested in these.

4 hours ago, Flytvr said:

It’s not really the volume. It’s down to drone. All the after market exhausts will suffer from drone at certain rpm / load. Even the stock exhaust has a little.

 Some people don’t mind it others do. 

Hayward and Scott cat back on mine, limited if any noticeable drone at motorway speeds. 

Don't confuse drone with exhaust noise which is surely what you are after or you'd be staying stock. 

Mine has done 40k in 3 years with that exhaust fitted, mostly motorway and lots of that with wife and mother in law on board who have never mentioned the noise at all. 

Quiet and sedate if you drive it sedately, a bit noisier if you drive or like a nutter. I agree with @scott-o if anything, it could be louder.

Welcome back!! Car looks ace!! 

On 9/4/2020 at 10:43 AM, mikey236 said:

I have indeed stumbled upon your you tube clips! It sounds very fruity and would def be interested to hear it real world. I'm mostly working from home, but I do head into the office usually once a week. It's a bit sporadic at the moment, pretty sure I'll be going in next week, but I'll def. chuck you a PM and see if you're free when I do go in

Cheers
 

😉

8 hours ago, Flytvr said:

Just very little demand.

 

Precisely. 

Keep em if you've got em. 

1 hour ago, mikey236 said:

thanks for all the great feedback - will add steering rack on the to look out for list! I think I am probably over worrying about the suspension issue, and as said, changing the springs is certainly a viable and cheap "fix"

@Therickster Thanks so much for the offer, that would be great - I'll ping you a PM and organise something suitable.

@NothernDan - Surprised I haven't seen your car about as I work in Hitchin. Do you still have the H&S system installed? I think this is one mod I am pretty much sold on listening to various youtube clips!.

Hi mate! 

It's a small world!!

If you've listened to any of the YouTube clips then two of them are mine with my car pre-modifications! The H&S was the first thing I did on mine, a week after I bought it.

Are you back at work now, would be happy to arrange a meet so you can hear the exhaust in the flesh, sounds so much nicer than in the videos 😍

6 minutes ago, NothernDan said:

I'm keeping the removed part for that very reason 😁

Although mine hasn't failed..... Yet! 

3 hours ago, paul99 said:

Not sure how easy it would be but once the failed rad is removed it would be interesting to have it cut open to see where it failed, might indicate a design fault or if its internal corrosion due to age. 

I'm keeping the removed part for that very reason 😁

3 hours ago, C.B said:

Whats the signs? Mines always felt a little heavy, but its from a time before manufacturers decided everyone wants to be able to drive with their little finger!

Unfathomable rattle through the wheel over cobblestones and rumble strips, like when your drop links go on your e36 and e46 BMWs. Small amounts of play detected in the rack, rack ends, track rod ends and stab links but all "within tolerances". Starting from the outside and working my way in with the rack last. Let's see which it is 🙄🙄🙄🙄. 

£1k to do everything up to the rack at Lexus, £500 at and Indy. 

Rack is a last resort but tbh, the amount of smiles per mile I've had in 3 years is well worth a small amount of cost. I'd have normally lost double the amount every year swapping cars out. Totally happy where I am. 

4 hours ago, C.B said:

How many have had the Valley plate issue over here? I cant think of any.

Certainly been more instances of a cracked manifold. Which is obvious from the ticking on idle.

The radiator issue is the only one I would be wary of, which is just down to age but can have quite catastrphic consequences due to design. Easy to solve with some preventative maintenance though and would be quite cost effective at a non franchise dealer.

Steering rack too, mine is on the way out 🙄

Hi mate, 

I'm in Hitchin and would gladly oblige but mine is so far from stock you'd have no idea what a stock one actually rides like from being in mine. 

Having owned many performance BMWs and Mercedes as well as Mk4 and Mk5 R32 Golfs what I can tell you is that the ISF on stock suspension is no worse than any of the usual suspects. Before I went to Airlift I had Tein Springs in stock 2009 dampers and the ride was significantly smoother. A mere £300 to make the change. 

Yes, there are a few issues emerging with age but for what you can buy one for, even if you factor in the cost of the preventative work, they are still a very cheap and highly reliable ride. 

Good luck with the hunt 😁

8 hours ago, Northern isf said:

I rang Leeds up about this and reckon the fluid is changed out on the big service, haven't had chance to check my invoices as my cars parked in another unit anyone know if that's the case? 

They did mine as part of the major service in Feb. Coolant and ATF. 

Soooooo..... Should I be asking for a different part to be fitted or does my invoice show the right part number?

Read the above twice now and I'm still not sure 😂😂😂

For those who are interested, this is my quote for the preventative work. Assume your 15% gold member discount off the parts so about £50 off the total. 

4 hours ago, Arqum said:

So what would be the concensious in getting the rad replaced to stop this happening? My ISF is. 2009 with under 30k on the clock. 

Getting mine done ASAP as a precaution mate. Mine is 2009 and just over 85k on it. 

Had my ATF changed earlier this year and no signs of contamination but I'd rather be safe than sorry and for £500 - £600 it's a better priced option than the alternative. 

21 minutes ago, C.B said:

Depending on the cost, the RR Racing alternative might be worth considering also, which has other benefits and is also a permanent fix.

Ask the man Twellsie, it also comes with downsides for those of us who are not "track only".... ie. all of us. 

What a nightmare.

My car is a 2009 approaching 90k miles so have contacted Lexus today to inquire about doing the preventative work and having the rad/transmission cooler replaced plus any likely ancillary parts. Had my ATF replaced earlier this year and all was clean and uncontaminated so I'm hopeful the problem had not yet started on mine. 

Awaiting the quote but I'll be sure to share it on here once I get it so those of us awaiting this time bomb have an idea of what it might cost to prevent it before it happens. 

Dan. 

Well done mate!! 😁😎😁

2 hours ago, Charliecloud said:

And there it was 'Gone' 

Sold to a member 😁

Just listed mine on the bay, barely used before I went to a Takeda. Just been cleaned with the proper fluid and re-oiled with the genuine K&N oil. Been sat around in large sealy bag in my garage for almost 2 years now. Time it went to a better home. 

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=143678404025&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111

8 hours ago, Comedian said:

I'm not sure which Northern is best  so logically it just makes sense to do the one that requires least work first!

 

😂😂😂

3 hours ago, Comedian said:

I can appreciate this but I really want to take the easier option first and if that doesn't work may have to make a template to get them back on in the same place. Plasti dip seems to be a really low risk process.

Mine stayed on despite a billion jetwashes, done exactly at outlined above. It's sticky stuff but does peel easily when you need to get it off. 

Actually couldn't believe  how easy it was to apply when I first did it, the process is very simple. 

28 minutes ago, Northern isf said:

i did my rear badges just took a picture and measurements of their location and removed them, i did that way as to create an all round bond if you have exposed edges it will ware away over time and cleaning.

Errrrrr, might be missing something here gents but you plastidip the badges with the badges on the car!

After its dried for a few hours the plastidip just peels off the bodywork and breaks at the junction between the bodywork and the logos. You just mask off a square around the logos and paint the whole square. 

Did mine when I first got the car but went back to standard after a few months.

No need to remove the logos to plastidip them. That's the whole point of plastidip! 

Or am I missing something here!?!