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About m4rkw

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  1. https://www.obd-codes.com/p0102 seems like something related to the MAF is still not quite right.
  2. I was shocked when I realised Mad Max was dystopian fiction, I thought it was just a documentary about australia in the 80s :D
  3. Unless you're buying a throwaway car for a grand or less, always get a trusted mechanic to inspect it before you part with your money. The few times you'll pay someone to do this on a car you don't end up buying are still way better outcomes than if you actually bought a car with a serious problem.
  4. Mostly likely a sensor under the seat. It arms the passenger airbag when someone is sitting in the seat, typically as the seat is moved back and forth the wires get damaged. Could also be a control module or a wiring issue somewhere, you'd have to take it to someone who can diagnose it for you. If it is the sensor you may be able to get a bypass module on ebay that will bypass the sensor and just leave the airbag armed all the time, however bear in mind it would probably be illegal to later sell the car to someone else without telling them about this.
  5. Personally in the world of cars I take the term "approved" to mean "we'd like to sell you this" and nothing more. It's pretty unlikely that the first 3 services were missed - nobody buys a car that expensive and then doesn't service it. But generally I agree with the other advice here - make them certify it fully before parting with your money.
  6. Definitely sounds like a wheel bearing given your description of it. Euro have kits for the front listed at 78.99 and rear 152.99 - https://www.eurocarparts.com/wheel-bearing-and-wheel-hub
  7. The fault indicated on the dash is a *current* error condition. The codes stored in the computer's history are historic error conditions. If the light is out it means the error condition is not currently present, you can safely delete the history without causing any lights to appear. Of course if the fault is still present but very intermittent there is a chance it may come back at some point anyway.
  8. If I were doing this myself I'd get the gearbox nice and hot first, drain and fill, then drive it 10 miles or so and do it again and replace the filter on the second fill.
  9. I think it was the older ones wasn't it? I've read a bunch of stories online about transmission failures on the first generation (XU10).
  10. They're not lying about the fluid lasting the lifetime of the car, when that fluid's burnt up the car's done :D I'd say 50k miles or so and don't use anything but the original specified fluid and a Toyota filter if the filter is replaceable. Toyotec did mine earlier in the year for a total of about £300. They showed me a jug full of the old liquid - it was dark brown and clearly used up.
  11. Other way around - Toyota Harrier with a Lexus badge. Same body but different engine and gearbox and fewer toys.
  12. Is that true for the gearbox in the Harrier as well? Asking because mine is a Harrier and I know it has a different transmission from the V6s. If you can point me to any data for this I'd be very interested to see it.
  13. Indeed they did, but hey I'll take a few less mpg if I don't have to ever replace a hybrid battery pack :P
  14. @Clive-D sounds like good news. Lets hope that the MAF failing was the only problem and that it wasn't something else, like say a bad earth, that caused the MAF to burn out and die. Regarding the light, you may be able to clear the error with techstream if you have it, or it may be that the computer runs a specific test only under certain conditions. For example the test that relates to the EVAP emissions system will only run when the fuel tank is above 1/4 and below 3/4 of fuel, and possibly also only when the engine is run up to temperature for enough time. I've no idea if there are similar tests for MAF-related issues, most likely it's just a persistent error code that needs to be reset manually with a scan tool like techstream.