m4rkw

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m4rkw last won the day on June 24

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About m4rkw

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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Mark
  • Lexus Model
    RX-300
  • Year of Lexus
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Surrey

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  1. You cannot reliably determine whether a tyre is safe to drive on from a visual inspection alone. A quick google search reveals a documented accident caused by a tyre that was just shy of 10 years old: https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintenance/how-old-and-dangerous-are-your-tires.html The general consensus amongst the various parties (including tyre manufacturers) is that 6 years is the safe limit: http://www.tiresafetygroup.com/tires-expire-in-six-years/ At £120/corner four premium tyres over six years work out to about £6.67/month. Why risk killing yourself or others just to save a few pounds a month?
  2. It's not going to be damaging anything, the cool air through the vents is just for your comfort, it's not cooling anything important to the workings of the car. That said some cars have one fan that cools everything in the engine bay so if that fails it can cause overheating of the engine although I suspect this is probably not the case on a hybrid.
  3. 6 years is generally considered to be the safe life of a tyre. I wouldn't go past this. Might be a bit far but Russell at Toyotec in Redhill is very good and honest.
  4. @jpower if the refrigerant is low it may mean there's a leak somewhere in the system. I don't know much about hybrids so it might be different with those but typically there will be dedicated fan that comes on with the AC compressor. Sometimes the fan or its controller will go out and in that case the compressor will not run because the computers detect that it's too hot. If this is happening you'll often find that the AC works well when you're flying down a motorway and then gets weak again when you're stood still. If it's not working at all then it's likely something else.
  5. I've cable-tied it up for now, I think I'll let the garage spot-weld it back on, can't see it costing much. Good tip though I'll check that stuff out.
  6. The other side of it looks like it's attached with a rivet of some kind, not sure if epoxy will hold it or if I should get the garage to rivet it back on properly.
  7. Not sure why I didn't think to look underneath it since we got home but you're bang on. The heat shield has a hole in it where it was mounted to the frame and is hanging down on the exhaust. Can I just get some metal epoxy from halfords to stick it back where it was or should i take it into the garage and have the shield replaced?
  8. I noticed my exhaust rattling today. At a stop with the car in gear I hear it, goes away when moving. I got out and moved the exhaust a bit and it rattles more, sounds like maybe a tiny stone went inside it. Other than accelerating hard up a steep hill does anyone have any ideas?
  9. That's a good thing for two reasons. It will be easier to prove the issue to them and as they made it worse they're now fully on the hook for fixing it.
  10. Ah yes, you're right. Somehow I ended up thinking the pollen filter was different last night and apparently ordered the wrong one but I've just checked the mann catalog again and you're right they're the same.
  11. My local garage misunderstood my request and only changed my oil, didn't replace the air or pollen filters. It looks easy enough to change them myself and I've looked up the part numbers but it's a bit of a minefield with a Harrier as euro detects my reg as a 3.0 RX-300 which it clearly isn't and the filters have different part numbers. Are mann filters good or should I stick with OEM? The mann filters from amazon are £17 for the air filter and £26.50 for the pollen filter. Toyota OEM are £25 for the air filter and £40 for the pollen filter. Are they worth the extra?
  12. @stringbender good luck tomorrow Alan. I would suggest when you go in asking them explicitly if they are *sure* that replacing the exhaust is going to fix the problem. If they yes - great, you can hold them to it and pursue further if it doesn't. If they say anything other than yes I would insist on the problem being correctly diagnosed first, and if they aren't able to do that then have someone else do it and then go back to them and demand they reimburse you.
  13. I once had a B5 passat diesel that had an annoying issue from a cold start. At first it would run fine but as soon as you drove a few feet it would start stumbling every few seconds, the rev needle would dip every 2-3 seconds and occasionally it would just cut out. Once warmed up it ran fine and my local VW specialist couldn't figure it out. I bought a VCDS cable and graphed a ton of data from the ECU trying to work out what it was but despite handing all of that over to a technician on paper they couldn't figure it out. So eventually I decided to take it to a diesel specialist and by that point I was convinced it was a problem with one of the injectors. I asked the diesel specialist (who specialise in refurbishing injectors) to remove and test the injectors. Of course they told me all four injectors needed refurbishing (which they may well have needed at that kind of mileage) so I asked them to go ahead, and of course it didn't fix the problem. Over £1000 spent and still had the same issue, car ran exactly as before, and I had no recourse at all because I'd asked them to test and refurbish the injectors and *not* to diagnose the issue for me. I ended up selling it without ever knowing what the problem was. An expensive lesson but hopefully @stringbender can benefit from my mistake and not do the same thing!
  14. Nope, exactly why a diagnosis from a qualified technician is necessary. If you go to a garage and ask them to replace something they will do exactly as you ask and if it doesn’t fix a problem you didn’t tell them about then that’s your problem. I know this because I’ve made this mistake myself and wasted a lot of money!