Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content


Established Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


m4rkw last won the day on March 7

m4rkw had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

420 Excellent

About m4rkw

  • Rank
    Club Post Guru

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Lexus Model
  • Year of Lexus
  • UK/Ireland Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. If you hear the word "flush" - run. That's usually not the correct service procedure. Should be drop the pan, drain the fluid, replace filter assembly, check a few things, reassemble and refill. A flush sometimes means they connect it up to a machine that pumps generic fluid in and straight back out again, not really cleaning it much and potentially causing damage. It does make them a lot of money though.
  2. Full refresh is a misleading term, I don't think they ever get close to all of the fluid out. Ask if it includes replacing the filter assembly, if it has one.
  3. Apparently it's not a good idea, as cold cranking amps goes up, reserve capacity goes down. Therefore it would seem that the correct battery for the car is the better option. Who knew!
  4. Other than perhaps cost is there any reason not to go to halfords and just get the biggest Yuasa battery that will physically fit in the space available?
  5. True but what’s the alternative in that situation? £3k isn’t going to buy a replacement car that id be happy with, and even if it did it would be an unknown quantity. Seems far more sensible to stick with the car I know is otherwise tip top.
  6. Price and cost are not the same thing. Sometimes the cheapest way out is the most expensive way in. I try to aim for lowest overall cost of car ownership. Cost does not just include money it also includes things like time and inconvenience.
  7. I am curious though, if maintenance costs exceed the on-paper value of the car do you just discard it and buy a new one or keep it going? What metrics do you use to make such a decision one way or the other?
  8. This is a given, but again value on paper is meaningless to most people with older cars. The value of my car is that I can get into it and drive somewhere. The value of that has not diminished at all during the time I've owned it and the averaged out monthly cost of keeping it in good condition is well worth it for that benefit.
  9. Lets also not forget our poor friend Stuart whose LS is now stuck in the south of france because something failed unexpectedly. Admittedly his problem wasn't a neglect of servicing but more neglect on the part of whoever did his MOT, but I take my family to rural Brittany most years and if the transmission went out over there I imagine it would be a total nightmare.
  10. Case in point: I suspect that a good quality replacement transmission for my car, with installation, would be more in the ballpark of £3k. The car is maybe worth £2500 ish, it's hard to know really because there are so few harriers around so nothing on the market to compare it with, but this is my approximate suspicion. If the transmission failed tomorrow I wouldn't hesitate to replace it, because I know the rest of the car has been well looked after and I can easily expect to get another 100k out of it without another major problem. Spending £3k on a new used car would be a much greater risk
  11. Cars in a working state, particularly ones with a known history and where you've made sure they are serviced correctly, are often worth a lot more to their owner than their market resale value. Rather than just looking at what the car is worth on paper you should look at what it would cost to replace it, and take into consideration the array of unknowns that a new used car brings with it. Also "lifetime" from the mouth of a manufacturer means expected service life. For most cars these days that's around 100k. "sealed for life" means exactly what it says, because when the fluid's all burnt
  12. I'm not aware of any hard data available on this, I only have other people's opinions to go on. However I've yet to meet a trusted technician who would advise not changing the fluid, consensus seems to be that somewhere above 100k they will start to show problems if not maintained. Garage owners who see loads and loads of cars and transmission failures all seem to say the same thing, change the fluid. A cynical person might say "well of course they do, that's how they make money" but I've also had the same people turn down work they could have easily taken because they are honest people. I als
  13. You got lucky. Just like someone who smoked a load of cigarettes all their life and lived to their 90s, it happens. Doesn't mean it's statistically likely though.
  14. Also, re: your point about your transmission that nearly made it to 200k without a fluid change - everyone can point at one person who smoked 40 a day for their entire life and lived to 92. I'd rather base my decisions on what happens in the aggregate though.
  15. I do about 10k miles/year, so £300 every 50k is about £5/month, hardly breaking the bank. I got the car with 77k on it and the transmission fluid was the very first thing I did. I did the second change again last year after only 20k for a couple of reasons: 1) i was working from home a lot, and my job doesn't normally allow wfh so it was much easier to get it to a trusted independent, 2) a drain and refill doesn't get all of the fluid out and I was conscious that it was changed later than ideal the first time. Also I'm very very skeptical that you can get a reliable transmission replaceme
  • Create New...