Sami Tilander

I also failed to the connect to the TPMS ECU with my TechStream, so no screenshot yet... I need to investigate that more. But good to hear that the warning light has gone! So, probably there is something wrong with the initialization procedure: it should set the thresholds lower than the current pressures on the tires... BR.Sami

Hi Kev, I've no idea what that separate low pressure threshold is... but have you tried to fill the tires to e.g. 42psi? Will the warning light disappear? I will take a screenshot from my car for comparison... BR.Sami

Hi Kev, Did you drive a bit after pressing the initialization button? I've noticed that it takes time/miles after the initialization is completed... Could can also see the ID of the sensor reporting low pressure (error code) using the TechStream: is it the new aftermarket sensor? BR.Sami

Remember also the official Lexus repair information at https://www.lexus-tech.eu/default.aspx . It costs only about £3 per hour, but already in one hour you can save lots of information to to your PC... BR.Sami

Forgot to send the final picture (showing the temp sensor + gas extraction tube)... here you go. (and no, there is no need to register new battery to the car as far as I know... I have not seen such option in the TechStream either...)

Update: so rebuild + Tanabe Medallion was my choice. Hardest part was taking the midpipe off: I don't have a lift in my garage, so I had to use jack stands. Working on rusted bolts under any car is painful... and boy those bolts were stuck! Here is a closeup of the holes: you can see the shape of the heat/stone shield edges there: There is some sort of fibre matt between the shields and the pipes: over the time it has maybe flatten and the edges of the shield have started to eat up the pipe... otherwise the mid pipe was actually in good condition still. So, a bit welding and grinding and spraying, and the mid pipe was fixed: I replaced the old fibre matt with exhaust wrap and reinstalled the shields: ...and installed the new cat-back from Tanabe: Project completed! BR.Sami

Yeah, just got the offer from local Lexus dealer: 2500€ for mid pipe (incl. installation). So, I'm open for all options... I'll consider that "rebuild" option, thanx for this hint! BR.Sami

Hi all, I found out that there is a hole in the exhaust pipe just after the lambda sensor... I have fixed one hole earlier, so I think it is time for renewing the whole exhaust system (or at least mid pipe and the rear section). Based on the topics on this forum, the best solution seems to be Tony Banks. But, that is not feasible option for me, as I'm located in Finland... I've tried to search for parts, but it seems to be very hard to find anything. I was able to find Revel (Tanabe), but that is only the cat-back. Invidia has both mid pipe and cat-back for RWD GS350, which I assume to be compatible with GS450h (right?). But those are in U.S. Any pointers to european shops which would have parts for GS? BR.Sami

Hi, Just wanted to share my findings: I was looking for new 12V battery for my GS450h (2008), and these will fit directly the battery tray in the trunk: Varta Blue Dynamic E23 570412063 70Ah 630A size (in mm): 261x175x220 BOSCH S4 026 70Ah 630A, size (in mm): 261x175x220 Yuasa YBX3030 12V 72Ah 630A SMF Battery, size (in mm): 260x174x225 The original battery is Lexus 28800-31281 Panasonic S65D26L 57Ah 450A, size (in mm): 260x173x202. I ended up buying the Yuasa YBX3030. Installation was really easy: the only thing you need to do is to remove the temperature sensor from OEM battery and glue/tape it on top of the new battery. Picture of the temperature sensor on OEM battery: BR.Sami

Hi, You don't need to change the tyres, just bring them close to the car... Then open Techstream's TPMS Live Data monitoring and check if you are getting any readings... Then you can e.g. move away the other wheels one by one and learn their IDs while monitoring the Techstream 😉 If I remember correctly, the IDs are changing in the Techscream display if you press that tire selector switch. It only displays 5 IDs at time. If you have the warning symbol + text "Check system" on the small screen, that means the ECU cannot read one (or several) of the sensors. There will be error codes visible on Techscream as well. The "Low tire" indicates that communication is ok, but you need to check the pressures + so the initialization procedure. I've visited two local tire shops here in Finland, and both of those had that kind of a general handheld scanner: they just selected first the make & model of my car and started scanning... One word of warning: I had a lot of trouble with one set of aftermarket sensors: they worked most of the time, but not all the time. Had to switch back to the OEM sensors (after battery change). I hope you have reliable sensors... BR.Sami

Sorry for stubid question, but did you switch to the second set of sensors by pressing the button under the glovebox? Your pictures were a bit blurry, but it seems that you have errors from 5 different sensors? The only way to know if the sensors are ok (e.g. sending something) is to go to a local tire shop: they should have a handheld scanner which can read the sensors through the tire... and they should be then able to tell the correct IDs as well. Note: the initialization procedure only sets the pressure limits for sensons, first you need to have working sensors the ECU can read... BR.Sami

I've been missing proper DRLs for my GS450h... mainly because here in Finland, we need to use some headlights even in day time. And the AUTO option of GS will switch all lights off if it is bright enough... So, I installed Osram Led DRL+Fog lights to replace the original fog lights. https://www.osram.com/ecat/LEDriving FOG-LED fog lights-Cars-Automotive Lighting/com/en/GPS01_1074552/PP_EUROPE_Europe_eCat/ZMP_1188268/ I first disassembled the original fog light housings, then manufactured custom brackets from aluminium. Here is couple of pictures of the process & end result: Old parts: New parts: End result: Have to say I'm really happy with the end result! 😉 BR. Sami

Hi, Not easily: the valve stem is permanently attached to the sensor. you need to cut it, if you want to replace it... and then attaching a new one is difficult. I've done this to one set of sensors, which were so stuck that I had to drill them to get them out. I used just some generic repair kit (like https://www.autodoc.co.uk/schrader/14528270) and lots of epoxy... BR.Sami

I can confirm this. They bolt directly to the shell... I've not noticed any difference on the road noise. Very silent car (except when the rear bearing was gone) BR.Sami

Now I'm interested! I've been thinking the same but had no time yet to start investigating the topic... I hope you will be posting your progress for us 😉 And thanx Chris for the wiring diagram! BR.Sami

Yes, a lot trickier than I excepted... but luckily I don't need the car right now, so there was plenty of time 😉 Here is list of parts I used: Rear Wheel Hub 42410-30020: Stark from Autodoc Bushings on axle carrier (no separate OEM numbers, not sold by Toyota/Lexus. Whole axle carrier is 42304-30090): Febest TAB-245 Febest TAB-238 Febest TAB-244Z 48710-53020 Arm Assy, Rear Suspension, No.1 Rh: MOOG RK641828 48770-30090 Arm Assy, Upper Control, Rear No.1: MOOG RK641830 89546-30070 Sensor, Speed, Rear Lh: Stark from Autodoc Bolts and nuts from local Lexus dealer: Bolt 91672-G1265 Nut 94151-21200 Bolt 91556-11475 (90105-14200) Nut 94151-21401 Washer 94622-51400 I also changed the parking brake springs and taps: 47447-10020 Pin, Shoe Hold Down Spring(For Front Brake) 90501-16118 Spring, Compression(For Parking Brake Shoe Hold Down) 47449-30030 Cup, Brake Shoe Hold Down Febest parts bought from http://shop.febest.eu MOOG parts from Rockauto https://www.rockauto.com/ BR.Sami

Update (finally): dust deflector was pretty stuck, but I managed to get that out (without destroying it 😉 ) I decided to replace the bushings, so I ordered new ones from Febest. And then I took the axle carrier and new bushings and went to a local car service. They had a hydraulic press, which I don't have... Here is the axle carrier with new bushings: ...and here is all parts installed: All the needed pieces, ready to final assembly! Job done! The installation was so simple compared to the removal of the parts... BR.Sami

Here are two videos: 1. power on: 2. acceleration test: I remember that I did switch to Sport-mode in the start of acceleration... but I need to re-test that. But as you can see, no movement at all... BR.Sami

I've to say that I've never noticed anything changing on the suspension when switching to Sport... steering yes and gas pedal yes. My first test was simple: car running, open the hood, take plastic covers off, take one actuator into hand, ask somebody to switch to Sport. Nothing. Then I started to belive that it must be controlled by the speed and I did that GoPro test... I need to study a bit video editing & youtube to upload the videos (never done earlier). They are straight swaps, except for the actuators, of course. I had one stuck bolt, which needed to be cut, otherwise smooth & easy DIY. I first lowered too much, which caused problems with wheel alignment (there is not much adjustment possible with stock parts). Here in Finland you need to get the suspension & alignment inspected, so they need to be on specs. One hint: you probably want to adjust at least the dampers, so leave the plastic covers & trunk covers out for few weeks/months. It is painful to remove the covers for adjustments... BR.Sami

Well, nothing at all... I probably need to re-take the video to be sure, I only did one short shot... I'll try to share the video I took so you can see it too 😉 I've to say I was a bit dissappointed with that... I was even planning to re-install the actuators on top of the BR racing coilovers, but not any more... Maybe the system is just designed to speeds which are not legal on our streets? BR.Sami

Mmh... the regular springs were rated 14/10 is that shop I ordered my coilovers. I think mine are 10/8 (at least that is stated in the documents I got). This is the set I bought: https://mamasan.fi/fi/product/r-21-br/11869 with softer springs (sorry, in finnish and prices in €) BR.Sami

It takes some time to find out the best settings that suit you: there is so many things you can adjust on those. I'd claim that you can get the same ride as oem, if you wish... I wanted to lower the car a bit, and get a bit more "firm" ride. I got that... Many times the coilovers are for sport-setups, which are (IMHO) too hard/uncomfortable. Pay attention which kind of setup you order... Actuators are on my garage's table. No codes from that 😉 One piece of details: the oem actuator is able to turn the damper pin about 100 degrees only. That 100 degrees corresponds to about 4 "clicks" on my coilovers (max. is about 32 "clicks" = more than 3 full rounds). So the oem adjustment is rather limited in that sense too... BR.Sami

Hi Paul, I was in exactly same situation year ago: one leaking rear shock and with less money than changing both oem rear shocks, I was able to get new BC racing coilovers every corner 😉 I actually did a small experiment with the actuators: I connected one back, added a small visual scale there and took a video with GoPro to see how much the actuator will actually do any adjustment while driving. Result: nothing at all. At least in speeds under 120km/h. I did try with Sport and Normal modes, but no difference. The only movement was when power was turned on: then the actuator moves to both directions (probably to reset the settings). Btw, I ordered my BC Racing coilovers with softer springs, and I've been really happy with them. BR.Sami

Next problem... guess what this is: Hint: here you can see it from the other side: Just wondering how anyone can remove a stuck plastic part... safely. I had to drill and tap the remainings out of that hole (which was btw. covered with white stuff, probably salt...). Next will be the dust deflector... hopefully that pops off easily. BTW. When I first time tried to change the wheel bearing, I never found exact answer to the question: do I need to take the wheel speed sensor off before removing the dust deflector. The answer is pretty clear from that picture: yes, you definitely need to do that. The journey continues... BR.Sami

Update: I ordered that C-clamp press tool and that arrived on Friday. I tried to press the bolt out from the bushing, but it did not move a bit. Only the control arm metal gave up: Then I took the angle grinder and a cutting wheel... and now the axle carrier is removed! Next I need to figure out how to get those bolts still off... might be easiest just to replace those bushings? BR. Sami