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Britprius last won the day on December 13

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About Britprius

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  1. Apart from the assesability problem changing the alternator is reasonably simple. Take a note or photo of how the drive belt is fitted, and it is a good idea to change this at the same time if there are any doubts as to how old or worn it is. John.
  2. This problem is easily overcome by having a timer in the supply to run for say no more than 5 seconds, or stalled motor current cutouts. This would stop any possibility of motor burn out, and is required anyway because the mirrors do not have end of travel cutout limit switches, John
  3. Surely any company selling an aftermarket cold start system would have integrated the gear to be in neutral for a manual or park for an automatic transmission, along with the parking brake set. In the litigious US everything is scrutinised to the last detail, and then some. This must have been a poor DIY attempt. Some years ago I had some electrical equipment from the US, and a tube of silicon sealant was supplied for use on the equipment. With the sealant was a book in English no other languages the size of a paperback novel covering the safe use of. It including goggles, breathing mask, and gloves. The book had many useful tips like, do not eat, do not squirt up your nostrils, do not put in your ears, and other such jems of wisdom. John.
  4. It is MG1 that starts the engine, but since this is connected to the sun wheel directly it is possible for it to assist in driving the wheels. When the ICE is running MG1 can be powered, and even made to change direction altering the effective gear ratio. In the Prius gen2 "othere Toyota variants differ slightly" MG1 can run from plus 10,000 rpm to minus 10,000 rpm with the car moving only forwards, depending on road speed and ICE rpm. I know there are two motor generators in the standard system, but I was trying to explain the basic system to "no disrespect intended here" a novice. The RX, and some GS 4 wheel drive have a third motor generator. For the RX in the rear diff there being no mechanical drive from the transmission to the rear wheels, and with the GS the front wheels are driven by a similar system. John.
  5. It sounds like they have damaged the pressure monitor in one of the wheels so take the car back. New monitors are £40 each upwards, and need setting in the TPMS ECU. John.
  6. The anti squeal, and rattle shims should already be fitted. You only need to replace them if they are missing or rusted through. A smear of copper slip is recommended on re assembly. If you are doing the rears check the slide pins are free "they very common to seize", and are worth checking even if you are working the front pads. Use the correct soap based grease on the slide pins not copper slip. John.
  7. Sharan welcome to LOC. The jerking you are referring to is normal while in park, and ready mode. Because of the way a hybrid transmission works it is always in gear. There is no true neutral, reverse gear, or actual gear changes. It is all down to a computer arranging the supplies to electric motors. Reverse is the electric motor being turned backwards. These motors can also act as generators. If you put the car in ready mode, and park the engine will start, and stop under control of the computer depending on if you have the heater on, the state of charge of the high voltage battery "not the 12 volt battery" and the engine temperature. The engine is started by the same electric motor that drives the car along "there is no normal starter motor, and no normal alternator" it is this starting the engine you can feel. As it turns the engine it also tries to move the car. There is a similar effect when the engine stops. Never sit in the car in ready mode with the car in neutral as the system cannot look after itself in this condition. John.
  8. If you try a GS450H make sure you put it in sport mode, and hybrid power mode together. Then adjust the headrest to support your neck. That's all I am going to say, John.
  9. I should have added the reason for it braeking is that the cups seize onto the balls, and will not rotate as the suspension moves. Check the other side of the car, and the front. It maybe that there will only be one other on the front passengers side, and lubricate the joints to stop this repeating else ware. John.
  10. Hello Michael welcome to LOC. The part that is broken is the operating rod for both headlamp auto levelling, and if you have it suspension ride height adjustment. The broken rod cannot be bought separately to the rest of the mechanism costing around £185. It is not difficult to make one from sum threaded rod, and ball joints available on Ebay for very little money. John
  11. Pressing the black button by the side of the gear selector, and selecting neutral will allow you to move the car without any problem from just pushing. Obviously do not tow the car anywhere, but pushing will be fine. Do not forget to put the car back in park after moving. John.
  12. Elaine welcome LOC. Have you carefully checked the heating wires printed on the inside of the screen for any brakes? These can get cut by scratches when being cleaned. Do the heated door mirrors work? as these are usually on the same circuit. Can you see where the screen heating wires exit the edge of the glass? If you can connect a volt meter or 12 volt bulb "a side lamp or stop lamp bulb is fine" to each exit point with pointed metal probes. If you get a volt reading or the bulb lights "with the screen, and ignition turned on" it narrows it down to the screen heating print. You can buy conductive paint to repair any breaks in the print. I hope this helps. PS. you have spelled your name differently in your avatar. John.
  13. Thanks for the heads up Robert. This is a job I keep putting off. I have the bearing to hand. My car makes a rotating rattling noise in ready mode while stationary. The noise comes and goes depending on the position of the gear selector. I tried running the pump in Techstream at it's different speeds, and get the same noise, but no other symptoms as yet. It may pay me to get the local garage to remove the pump, and I will service it. It will be worth the cost to save scrabbling around on the floor outside. John.
  14. If the car uses 0w20 grade oil this is only made in fully synthetic, but my answer could have been worded better "yes" meaning it is fully synthetic" answering your question, and the rest of my answer was for grade guidelines. Your car should also be suitable for the latest grade of oil for energy conservation "mpg" 0w16. This is reputed to give better ware protection along with higher mpg figures. John.