Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content


samplify

Members
  • Posts

    58
  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Profiles

Forums

Events

Store

Gallery

Tutorials

Lexus Owners Club

Gold Membership Discounts

Lexus Owners Club Video

News & Articles

Everything posted by samplify

  1. I think anywhere around the £20k mark is my maximum. Right car will be worth the right money though. In all honesty, I'd prefer one that has a bit more wear and tear so I don't feel as precious about it given it'll be my daily, so that should help keep me within the budget!
  2. Hi all! I posted in the 'Wanted' section but thought I'd try my luck in here/increase visibility! I currently drive a Subaru Legacy 3.0R Spec.B with the 6 speed. Fantastic car, makes all the right noises, gets a shift on and very practical, but I have always lusted after an ISF and a recent change in circumstance means I might be able to afford one now! Are there are any 2010+ cars for sale by members right now? Or any members that have been considering selling? Please let me know! Thank you 🙂
  3. I'd much prefer to buy from the OC though, more likely to have been looked after!
  4. Hi all, Can't see any for sale at the moment, but wondering if any current owners of the facelift variant of an ISF are looking to sell within the next few months? Please let me know!
  5. Hi all! Left the OC last September but just remembered I have a spare rear section (two backboxes and the joint to the centre pipe) up in the loft that is gathering dust. Wondering whether anyone needs one? It isn't an OEM unit I don't think as it doesn't have the ovular tips, most likely one of the eBay specials. It isn't louder than stock though and had no leaks when it was removed and has been in the dry ever since. I'd ask £150 for it given the other examples on the flea are asking £100 more and it might help out another enthusiast in need! Bank transfer preferred but I will take cash. I won't post it for obvious reasons, so it is collection only. I'm in Central Beds area. I could meet you halfway depending on the distance required. Just as a note, it will NOT fit in the back of an IS250 as I'm sure you'll know the rear seats do not fold. I'll take some pics when I get it down from the loft! Send me a message on WhatsApp if interested: 07885491367
  6. You could try looking for an exhaust system from a breaker's car, although no guarantee that that exhaust isn't also full of holes.
  7. Auto or manual? My manual is for sale, PM if you have any questions!
  8. Most likely the VVTI cam gear rattle. It happens from time to time if oil drains out of that area. I've heard leaving the car on for a few mins after you've finished driving helps to prevent it. I don't think it poses a threat to anything though!
  9. Yep I had the same thing, replaced the same blue print filter with an OEM one and too remarked at their difference in thickness!
  10. Rusty sills, they always go. Even if they have been mended before, it is only a matter of time before they go again. There are some things that you can do to really put it off waxoyl, holes in the bottom of the sills etc. but yeah, corrosion is a biggy there. Oh, and in the boot pockets. None of it is structural (to begin with...)
  11. I did this, but also removed the plastic baffles inside the airbox too. It does add sound and doesn't seem to come with any engine heat soak complications. If you're at all concerned, ask a breaker's if they have an airbox and do it to that one instead to compare. I got one for £30 and it came with a perfectly good MAF in it so was chuffed. I used a hole saw for spot lamps and it worked great. Just make sure you have some sandpaper to get rid of all the marred plastic from the hole and all the jagged bits of baffle left over (pretty much impossible to get that all flush unless you have a proper handheld sander, probably more effort than its worth). Also, give it a rinse with a hose to get rid of any plastic dust. Yes, it is before the air filter, but no point clogging it up unnecessarily!
  12. Reviving this thread - anyone know the thread pitch and size of nut I should use to secure the heatshield?
  13. Hmm interesting. I am planning a trip to Germany at some point in the summer so I guess we shall see if it pulls to the right there. Definitely something I can live with though!
  14. I have never driven a sport model, unfortunately. LCA bushings shouldn't change ride comfort, more steering feel as others have already mentioned.
  15. Hi all, I have been sitting on this issue for a few months since purchasing the car. I initially thought my problem was LCA or other suspension arm related. Had the LCAs replaced and the other arms measured/verified and all good there. Next I thought it was tyre related so when I replaced the alloys from 17s to 18s with new tyres I expected the pull to be gone. Had the car aligned (twice) and both times the issue has not gone away. The most recent alignment print out suggested everything is straight as an arrow. I have tried the zero point calibration using the paperclip method (taken from the official Lexus service manual) and if anything it feels a bit worse than before (might just be me though!) I have looked through the car's history and it did have the steering rack replaced as part of a recall I think. No uneven tyre wear, symptoms are it feels as if the centre point of the wheel is slightly off to the left and I have to fight it to stay centered (apply a tiny bit of right lock). It occasionally feels as though it recentres and then goes back to not centering. My brother suggested it might be road camber related but honestly the amount that it veers left when I hypothetically let go of the wheel momentarily on an almost flat road makes me think otherwise. You can actually physically see that the wheel is slightly left of centre when it is left to its own devices. Has anybody had a similar experience?
  16. IS250 OEM springs as far as I know. Car rides a tiny bit firmer but feels really stable at high(er) speeds. Not particularly comfortable around town though in 20s/30s, something to bear in mind. Polys can be good but for daily driving I'd stay away. I have heard they are super firm and can also make unwanted squeaky noises.
  17. I've had luck checking the engine when cold. You need to pull the dipstick out quite quickly in my experience and try to avoid smearing it on the dipstick tube on the way out. Generally there is a 'break' in the oil and that gives you your level.
  18. Here we have the finished product (finally!) All the correct part numbers for a 6MT RHD IS250 are as follows: Accelerator: 04000-14253 Brake/clutch pedal: 31321-53010 Footrest: 58191-53060
  19. Hey @AFlex appreciate the offer here but I thankfully managed to find the part number myself after a lot of tribulation. Getting it from a Steven Eagell at the beginning of next month all being well. As far as removing it, you just pull it out of its place. Sometimes the clips will get stuck on the 'pegs' on the chassis and they twist off.
  20. @H3XME You mentioned you removed the blanking plate behind the grill. I've been thinking of doing the same. Have you noticed any damage to your radiator from stone chips or anything?
  21. Just bumping this thread and also updating to say I installed the sport accelerator pedal too!
  22. Hi all, Recently decided, due to some worn out rubber covers, that I would like a new pedal set and rather than replacing them with the black rubber ones I decided to fork out for some OEM Sport style ones. Accelerator pedal managed to get from Lexus Parts Direct (shoutout to Daniel for that, very patient with me!) Brake pedal and clutch pedal were easy enough to find and buy from Amayama. I also bought the sport dead pedal/footrest piece from Amayama with PN 58192-53061. When I received it all, I fitted the brake and clutch no problems (yet to install accelerator as it requires removing the pedal module which is a weekend job to be done in dry daylight!) but the footrest seemed to be sitting too high. The legs that come from the footrest were at least an inch to two inches longer than the standard one, which leads me to believe I may have inadvertently bought an automatic transmission one maybe? Anyway, if we have any manual IS250 sport owners out there that are willing to remove their dead pedal so that I can get a part number, that would be excellent! Or if anyone is able to tell me what it is, that would work too! Thank you guys!
  23. I had this too on my old IS200. It would go away as the car warmed up.
×
×
  • Create New...