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Andrii

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Posts posted by Andrii

  1. As it appeared for me  - the problem returned back so I googled what else I can do. There was a suggestion to clean the motors inside - especially the commutator and brushes. But the motors were different from what I have, so needed to figure out how to get inside.

    image.thumb.png.a331cb4c7e7f815a3d6e64589c35aee6.png

    The pieces are connected mechanically, creating a lock to keep them together:

    image.thumb.png.4734ff1dee0e51bea432640d073c1dd7.pngimage.thumb.png.5efe5a354a4496cd5f8c7db6b54981ba.png

     

    It appeared to be easy to pop up the upper part with a small screwdriver put into a hole between the plastic part and the main body:

    image.thumb.png.52ee9b48b20f648cd9b1f8b708cebe9a.png

     

    Im my case there wasn't any rust, just oil mixed with graphite from the brushes, making the commutator non-working:

    image.thumb.png.6d417d4ec7d3520b3ad0ad82719212f5.pngimage.thumb.png.428d8150d75bc1cc657e6270d4e14c03.png

    I used WD40 contact cleaner with paper and Fiberglass Scratch Brush Pencil to clean the commutator and brushes:

    image.thumb.png.035f237db0440bdb9798baab27d7e78f.pngimage.thumb.png.a797ac072a8d21be56757008eaeca07d.png

    Be careful and don't lose the white plastic ring - it keeps the lamels together and the motor cannot be used without it:

    image.thumb.png.1386d8d446944c2e31f69d006e666a89.png 

    Then I assembled all parts using some superglue on one of the motorts (the one where I damaged the locking parts on a metal body, while tried to figure out how to disassemble it).

    The second motor where I used a screwdriver from the beginning to pop it up - the parts are attached securely.

    In the end I cleaned all the plastic gears and applied a silicone grease for plastics rubber seals:

    51ERl3ZOqPL._AC_SL1046_.jpg

     

    It's been a few days already and all work smooth and fast.

     

    The only issue I had from my very first attempt - I have auto dimming mirrors, so after the reinstalling them into the mirror body I have non-working spots where I pushed the mirrors to fasten them.

    • Like 3
  2. @Linas.P, @Mr Vlad I'm on 111k miles now. They told me that the sensors are ok, no leakage etc. I didnt see MPG degradation and no any lights on a dash.

    Finally it can be considered as solved this time - it passed emissions after hydrogen carbon cleaning and on the hot engine.

    The emission results before: Fast Idle CO 0.83; Natural Idle CO 0.39

    After the cleaning on the hot engine: Fast Idle CO 0.00; Natural Idle CO 0.29 (limit is 0.30).

    I have a mixed cycle: some motorway + some town miles.

    What I noticed after the cleaning  - MPG improved from 30,7 to 35.

    Thank you all for your suggestions, will monitor her MPG. Hope the new tank doesn't get any worse.

    • Like 3
  3. Hello, just returned from a garage and a bit lost. Nothing was showing a problem  - no one Check Engine during a year I have the car, but MOT failed because of the emission.

    They changed sparkle plugs, played with sensors a few days etc. and now believe it's because of one catalytic converter (not 100% sure which one).

    I use Shell E5 and did some miles on a low gear before the test, but here I am.

    What are my options, if any? I like the car and don't want to sell it (it's also not fair).

  4. On 3/1/2023 at 4:53 PM, johnatg said:

    £23.99 each from here:

    Lexus IS300 Tailgate Struts | Boot Struts | Bonnet Gas Struts (sgs-engineering.com)

    You need 2. They work perfectly.

    (Don't worry that it says IS300 - they fit your car!)

    Fitting is pretty simple - you just need to take out the boot light and the luggage hangers, then ease open the gap between the top lining and the edge of the metal.

    Thank you for the information. How does the tailgate behave after these struts installed? Do they lift it a bit? My tailgate is flat and I literally raise it all the way up without any felt support.

    Update - found this topic and the video made me believe it will solve my issue: https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/110883-2008-is250-boot-strut-part-number/#comment-986048

     

  5. Hi @ahmed24, it's worth to say I look forward (and maybe other people too) for your separate review and the integration project of Teyes CC3. I want to select from Teyes vs XTRONS and your experience seems to be a key point here. Please don't forget to touch audio quality question (how to integrate CC3 to ML setup).

    Thank you all guys for your valuable information and shared experience. 

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