Leadfoot

Faulty switch thats my ten pounds worth. I think Andy is right as twitching indicates some current is getting through, which won't happen with a blown fuse, but check anyway. You are going to need a multimeter! Also looking at the circuit layout the wiper motor is fed by the wiper relay, but it appears to be buried in behine the instrument panel, so lets not look at that yet. There is a solid lavender wire going into the wiper washer combination switch, check that you have 12V to ground here with the ignition on. At this point you could disconnect the loom plug and test the continuity between the solid lavender terminal and the lavender/black stripe terminal when the is in the "low" setting. If there is no continuity then the switch is bust. If its fine it may be the relay or the motor. Report back once you have had a look at the easy stuff. Good luck, Leadfoot.

Hi Andy, I know you have probably checked this but whats the fluid level like? Undo the cap and check that the switch is working properly (by sliding the float up and down while someone watches the instrument cluster). As maneesh believed the fuse layouts are printed under the cover of the fusebox on the LS400, the EFI fuse is the one you have to pull for >10 seconds to clear the codes. Also this special service tool (SST tool p/n # 09843-18020) is only a small length of wire with two pin terminals crimped onto the ends. You can plug it into either the TDCL or the engine diagnostics port in the engine bay. Then just count the numbers flashing up on the engine "check" light. Hope you are well, been away from the boards due to work commitments. Intend to return the rack next time I am out your way. Cheers, Leadfoot.

[quote name='Ian10' date='May 8 2006, 05:30 PM' post='351834' Thanks for that,will have to check it out !! Ian. The switch is used when you car is towed. You must turn the air suspension off if the car is put on a hook as the suspension will try to cope with the changes and eat itself. That's all its used for. Cheers.

Thanks Dave, I went out lunchtime and the warning symbol went off after starting the car - confused! I think you might find it comes back on as soon as you activate your brakes, I just replaced one of my rear bulbs as I had the dash symbol illuminating too and mine wouldn't light up till I hit the brakes. Easy and cheap too fix luckily! Cheers, Leadfoot

The ad on the dealer website said "Not Another To Be Seen On The Market, Fresh Import No UK Owners", I have a feeling it may stay that way for quite a while....especially given the price! Crazy.

Pity I didn't keep my old one, but I took it off as soon as I got the car as I couldn't stand the thought of the extra tubulence. It did help line up the pedestrians though!

Hi all, Due to the high petrol prices over the last few months I have been running my car on the cheapo 95 octane grade. I had been noticing that my car was running very rough and was contemplating the engine mounts, spark leads or even the 6 month old plugs, since it is designed to run on 95 octane. As an experiment I ran the tank nearly dry and put in £20 of 97 grade and it is purring away again. Glad I didn't strip it down! I don't remember the car behaving like that when I first got it 6 months ago so is it my memory or have I just gotten used to the smoothness and can now detect slight changes when running on low grade? Anyone having similar experiences? Cheers, Leadfoot

Thanks for coming back and updating us, its good to do that. Sorry, don't know anything about the wheels.

Recently I've had trouble with the central locking manually activating with the key. I insert it and it can take more than 5 attempts to lock the car, whereas it always unlocks no problem. Very weird...... Any ideas? Thanks, Leadfoot

From how I understand your post the noise was there before you changed the belt. If so I reckon it has to be the water pump is dead. Did you feel the pump bearings for play and smoothness when you had the belt off (I know, hindsight is a wonderful thing). If the sound is new since the belt was done then PLEASE check that when you removed the belt you were super careful with the cam timing marks and their positions. Revving wouldn't make that go away though!!! Lots of perseverance and patience are required for these old girls, keep at it as once they are sorted they are lovely. Good luck.

Quality answer Paulsje, I will print that one out for when I need it. thanks!

Found a company in Australia that does the LS400 bushes in Polyurathane, don't know prices but they can be found here http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/ I have extracted the part numbers from the downloadable catalogue (22MB) so you don't have too! Lexus LS400 Sedan 12/1989 - 10/1994 Front Control Arm Upper - Inner Bushing SPF1352K, kit contains 4Bushes&4Tubes Rear Trailing Arm - Rear Bushing SPF2249K, kit contains 4Bushes&2Tubes Sorry later model people, you were not listed, but might be worth asking anyway. Happy driving, Leadfoot

The main fusible link is a separate unit of 4 big fuses next to the other main fuses in the LS400 engine bay terminal box that is directly behind the battery. If you take the lid off the box and look underneth it you will see the circuit descriptions. You can look into the top of the fusible link to see if it is blown or not, torch may be useful. I don't know your model at all, but hopefully it is the same. Remember the fuse links will more than likely be bolted in place, they don't just pull out like smaller fuses. Good luck. :)

Welcome to the club, always glad to see someone who has more miles on the clock! Will do some research on the key lights but I don't think mine work either. Chances are it will have to be dark before they work as I think there is a daylight sensor near the windscreen. Aerial is an easy one to fix I believe, check out your lexus "homework" on http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/powerantenna.html Thump is common I think, there is a fair amount of torque comming into play from the V8. Mine does it anyway. Pumps can be reconditioned for sub £200. Be interested in the shimming job, search the US forums for info, there is a whole bunch there. Will be interested in the feedback on the other points myself.... Cheers, Leadfoot.

Man I would not want to hit a great lump of tuds at that speed, it would be very unsettling. I remember Carlos Sainz hitting a sheep in the rally of New Zealand in '99 and that was scarry enough. Still I suppose the visibility would be pretty good so it probably isn't so dangerous. Good thing about the autobahn's is a medivac chopper is always only 15 minutes away if it all went to custard.

I found the main differences were the very low traffic volume and excellent lane discipline. There were times when I felt I was the only car on the road, I can't tell you how refreshing that is. Also everyone gets over into the slow lanes as soon as they can, clearing up the fast and middle lane. Occasionally a truck might pull into the fastest stream but they indicated well in advance, so it was never scarry. I noticed that as soon as the built up areas were reached everyone travelled at the posted limit. Laws work if everyone feels they are fair and follow them dutifully. Like when the congestion is high they open the shoulder up to assist flow.... :duh: if only they would do that on the M4... Cheers, Leadfoot

Normally I do not condone speeding, but my recent trip to the German autobahn really opened my eyes to how much fun it can be. It felt great to take the old girl up to 120 mph, but I found that the handling became quite "floaty" and was not willing to push on any faster. Series 1 brakes are fine too, never a problem even on steep alpine roads. Also found out it is a lot of fun to take an LS400 around the Nurburgring, as long as you watch your mirrors. All this and around 25mpg, not bad for a 150K miler! Strangest thing has been re-adjusting to the congested London roads again....... Cheers, Leadfoot.

Welcome to the club, please don't get intimidated by the amount I have replied with, it will most likely be easy to cure. I do tend to get a bit carried away....... The throttle body getting choked up with carbon deposits is a common occurence on the high mileage cars, but normally it affects the hot idle quality, not the cold. I will check what mine revs at in the morning but is the 2000rpm in neutral or is it idling that high in gear? I had a look in my lexus manuals and the troubleshooting matrix listed the causes for an "incorrect first idle" as, in priority of likelyhood You might want to print this...........if its out of your league at least it gives you plenty of ammo for dealing with a mechanic. 1) Accelerator pedal link - don't know about this as there was no section referred to so just check the throttle linkages for ease of movement. 2) Dash pot - the dash pot is a device that is connected underneath the throttle position sensor and the book says to INSPECT DASH POT(DP) SET SPEED (a) Warm up the engine. ( b ) Remove the cap and filter (and a little plastic separator for the filter) from the DP. ( c ) Race the engine at 2,500 rpm for a few seconds. (d) Plug the VTV hole (its the only hole in the dashpot body and a finger will do so an assistant will be needed for the rpm readings and throttle control) . (e) Release the throttle valve. (f) Check the DP set speed should be 1,500 rpm. If not at specified speed, adjust with the DP adjusting screw ( at the back of the dashpot body) The manual also says DP speed only should only need adjustment when a new DP is installed. (g) Reinstall the DP filter and cap. 3) Power Steering Idle up valve, if this malfunctions it can leak in extra air causing a faster idle. I don't have those pages though, sorry. 4) Water temperature sensor circuit, big job, manual says (a) DRAIN COOLANT ( b ) REMOVE INTAKE AIR CONNECTOR PIPE ( c ) REMOVE UPPER HIGH–TENSION CORD COVER, TWO ENGINE WIRE COVERS, TWO NO.3 TIMING BELT COVERS AND LOWER HIGH–TENSION CORD COVER (d) DISCONNECT RADIATOR INLET AND OUTLET HOSES (e) REMOVE RH IGNITION COIL (f) REMOVE WATER INLET HOUSING (i) Remove the connector from the RH distributor. (ii) Remove the water inlet hose from the water inlet housing. (iii) Remove the two bolts and remove the water inlet housing from the front water by–pass joint. (iv) Disconnect the water hose. (g) REMOVE WATER TEMP. SENSOR (i) Remove the connector from the water temp. sensor. (ii) Remove the water temp. sensor and gasket. 5) Intake air temp sensor At 20 c should read between 2 and 5K ohms 5) Air intake temp circuit - don't know about this one. 6) ISC Valve - (idle speed control???) this is the valve that you were asking about but its actually a little DC stepping motor controlling a valve with 128 positions. It could be this but the detail is too much to write out and its more likely to be one of the above. 7) Engine + ECT ECU - doubtful given it runs fine. You should get a lot of enjoyment out Lexus ownership, just be patient when things go wrong as it can take some time to sort if your mechanic isn't good at reading instructions. Cheers, Leadfoot.

No daft questions here... only daft responses Are you after comprehensive cover? I only have 3rd party for mine but given the cost of fitting the approved units and the discount you then get wasn't worth it for me. I used a website that I saw here on one of the old insurance threads, http://www.moneysupermarket.com/insuranced...t.asp?Source=MS and found a reasonable deal. Good luck.

I mean that it sounds like your pump is worn out. ← Check your fluid level, but if its OK and the noise is there trust Andy on this one, it is likely to be your pump is worn out. I just had mine fail and it sounded very bad when turned away from the center position. I had it reconditioned (costs~£180) but unfortunately it created "too much pressure" when tested at the end so I opted for a new replacement ~£400. I got the rack reconditioned (~£150) at the same time and now it steers beautifully. Quoted about 5 hours labour to pull all the bits out, send them off for recon and reinstall them. Good luck. Cheers, Leadfoot

Bump, this would be good info for me too.

I am a big fan of knowing how my car works. I bought a lexus because they are just such a brilliant piece of machinery (for instance a six bolt main end cap and forged steel crank as standard!!). The dealers may have all the special tools but for a majority of the work I believe a knowledgable owner with time to get the job done will do a better job. I have been horified to see how rough some mechanics are. I downloaded the entire set for the 92 model from the TIS. It lists the US and Canadian models, mostly the car is the same, I have not found any major variations yet. Difficult to navigate but very useful. The real ones are worth it if you are planning to do all the work yourself. I am happy to print out the sections as I need them (thanks boss!) Good luck, Regards, Leadfoot

Refer to my reply to your VCV post. just follow the middle pipe to the cannister. INSPECTION OF CHARCOAL CANISTER 1. REMOVE CHARCOAL CANISTER 2. VISUALLY INSPECT CHARCOAL CANISTER CASE Look for cracks or damage. 3. CHECK FOR CLOGGED FILTER AND STUCK CHECK VALVE (a) Using low pressure compressed air, blow into the tank pipe and check that the air flows without resistance from the other pipes. (B) Blow into the purge pipe and check that the air does not flow from the other pipes. If a problem is found, replace the charcoal canister. 4. CLEAN FILTER IN CANISTER Clean the filter by blowing 294 kPa (3kgf/cm2, 43 psi) of compressed air into the tank pipe, while holding the purge pipe closed. HINT: • Do not attempt to wash the canister. • No activated carbon should come out. 5. INSTALL CHARCOAL CANISTER At least thats what my manual says! Cheers, Leadfoot

My 92 LS service manual states that the vapour control valve is located on the right (facing engine bay) side of the plenum chamber. There are three round components in that area, the one with the smallest diameter of the three is the VCV. It has three pipes connected to it, 1 above the center rib, 2 below. It is a vacuum operated valve. Vacuum from the intake chamber is applied to the VCV when the coolant temp rises above 56C and another valve upstream opens (the BVSV). This then allows the intake vacuum to purge any hydrocarbons stored up in the charcoal canister. Note upper means as installed in the car, please note its original orientation carefully. TO CHECK VCV OPERATION (1) Remove VCV. (2) Apply vacuum above 9.3 kPa (70 mmHg, 2.76 in.Hg) to the single upper pipe. (3) Check that air flows from the middle pipe out the lower pipe. (4) Stop the applied vacuum. (5) Blow air into the middle pipe and check that the air does not come out of the lower pipe. If a problem is found, replace VCV. (6) Reinstall the VCV and reconnect the vacuum hoses. I will check mine now! I am doing long term research into Lexus reliability, mine has 150K so far. I have not had mine serviced by Lexus yet, don't know if I ever will as I can do the work myself. The service manuals are very simple to use. Do a bit of research first or ask here before taking something in for work, you will save yourself a lot of expense I am sure. Cheers, Leadfoot

Just thought I would share my experience for the record. I finally got my 92 LS400 back from the shop after 4 weeks, and thought that writing a big post would leave a trail of search terms for someone in the future. Background = The steering had completely locked up momentarily a few times in the first 5000 miles of ownership, and only ever at slow speed. Car has done 150K but the steering rack and pump were done last year, before I owned it. I cleaned the solenoid valve on the rack (it was clogged) but that didn't improve things. Finally the pump ate itself and I managed to limp to my nearest workshop. Luckily it was all left turns as the car would not turn right! Had the rack reconditioned and the pump rebuilt, only to find out the pump put out "too much pressure" and couldn't be gauranteed so only option was a new one(!!) instead. Cost me £1100 to fix in total - half as much as I had paid for the car. During its stay in the shop they managed to drain the battery completely. It saddens me they didn't disconnect it, I thought that was a fundamental rule when working on cars. Anyway refurbed rack and new pump in, hand it back to me, no gauges working. State "hey my gauges are not working, neither are all my power windows, seats radio etc.". Hmmmm, they give it a rev and everything lit up and works. Next morning, gauges don't work again even after revving. Drive only 6 miles and the car starts kangaroo jumping and has no power and no drive. Turns out battery is flat. Alternator not producing any charge. Arrgggghhh, RAC van connects jumper leads and a very large screwdriver jammed on the gas pedal charges the Lexus battery from the service van after 15 minutes. Back at shop, very unhappy, get the alternator changed for recon. Starts up on fully charged battery, no gauges, no power anything. Investigate the engine bay fuses, no problems. Pull apart the interior to look at the interior fuse panel, no power at all on any circuits. Hmmm, shop thinks its the ignition switch. Looked at the circuit diagram, tailights are out too so isn't the ign sw, as the lights are not wired through it. Turns out on "closer inspection" that the main fusible link (120Amp!!!) has popped. You have to unbolt these fuse links, luckily I was there when they tried to pry mine out and I stopped them before they damaged anything. One £11 fuse and all is working as it should. Lessons I have learned - 1) Providing the actual lexus workshop manual to a mechanic is pointless as no one bothers to read instructions anymore. 2) Old cars cost money 3) Always redo the alternator when you do the powersteering pump 4) Lexus stealers may be expensive, but doing it cheaper isn't always a good alternative 5) Sometimes if you want a job done properly........ So mid-September off to Germany and the Autobahns to give the new W rated tyres a good workout. Report will follow. Leadfoot.