Leadfoot

Gidday Mate, always nice to have another Kiwi on the boards! (Steve, I'm based in Whangaparaoa if you are looking on google earth Lat -36.582993° Long 174.664193°. Check out my new motorway!) Given your cars age and the description of the problem hopefully it is related to the classic trunk wiring loom fault. Usually the fault occurs when you brake though, the short circuit backfeeds voltage into the ECU in an unexpected way and she gets upset. You state that it always occurs on heavy acceleration, which implies that the kickdown may be involved. I will have a search through the boards (this and the US one are a treasure trove!) and see what we can find. The transmissions are pretty tough, it is more likely to be an electrical gremlin than overheating from SPEEDING!!!. Good luck, and please post any fault codes if you get them. The proper procedure is to read them, wipe the memory by pulling the EFI fuse for more than 15 seconds, then plug it back in and take it for a drive to get the problem, then read the fault codes again. The lexls site is a goldmine. Good luck.

Heat has a big effect on belts, my ex singapore 400 belt was absolutely shagged after only 100,000km. Piece of mind is far better than pieces of scrap aluminium and steel (valves and pistons). You got a bargain.

Finally someone is posting pictures that people from NZ can actually view! The tappets in the no7 cylinder position are a classic "characteristic" of the engine design, apparently the oil feeds weren't perfect and a little wear occurs until the gap is big enough for oil to get in and stop the wear. If you replace the shims it happens all over again. Best to leave it as is, they run forever with it and the best solution is Petes.

I reckon you have a good eye Pete, its only your back that's out! Superb job on the Nav unit, I thought it was a factory finish at first, but then I realised Record don't do a sprayed finish on their vices. :) Sorry to hear that chapters over, next one will still make good reading! All the best mate, Cheers, Marcus.

We all feel your pain. Hopefully that eases the burden.

Snap. I just added sealant under the boot seal in my 98 also to cure this exact same problem. It does cure it too, no problems since, but no mushrooms either. I removed the rear lights and sealed it up then respositioned all the mouldings properly, then the light units hold everything in place.

The trans is bolted solidly to the motor, so even though the lexus V8 is a very smooth unit and has very little shake, if the motor moves so will the tranny. The torque reaction of revving the motor causes some rock. I think the clue about the 1800-2200 rpm is a vital, have you had the codes read?

That 400 looks factory fresh, was it being kept in the fridge? Wish mine still looked that good ..........and I had a spare £10K kicking around. Your 430 is superb Pete, I will be most envious of whoever gets it. Cheers Mate!

The 1998-2000 models you have a single igniter per spark plug. Everything is checked by the computer during running and it will detect misfire in each cylinder and store a fault code. Get somebody with an OBDII fault code reader to check. I would be very surprised if it was plugs, but if they are due for changing nothing wrong with forced maintenance. On the earlier cars the engine, transmission and also the diff mounts could give trouble. Since you have changed the motor mounts and saw improvement, did the trans mount get done too? Won't be the diff though because you said it happens in park too. The fuel injection system has a cutout at the 1800 rpm mark, I wonder if its a fueling problem. Fault codes would report that too. Hope you track it down....

hehe nice upgrade. I want one! (Steve please check your PM's)

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The crank pulley bolt is damn tricky without the right tools. I had my 98 serviced at a toyota dealer because I chickened out of the job. They used air tools to rattle that sucker off, they didn't even have to remove the radiator. However they did manage to leave a camshaft position sensor wire rubbing on the new cambelt and a hundred miles latter the engine went crazy. Easily fixed but even the "experts" get it wrong. I replaced the cambelt (age only, still had miles to go but it was truly stuffed), water pump, tensioners and pulleys and main crank seal. However the camshaft seals were too much work, cams have to be diassembled and the VVti is not user friendly. Good luck!

Thanks for organising it 2D, good effort all.

The early cars had the warning lights in the upper section of the instrument pod and they reflect down to give the "floating" heads up display effect. Kind of like the old arcade computer games used to do. It was not implemented past the mark 2 IIRC. My 98 is the same as yours, it has the warning lights mounted on the gauge panel face.

Hi Alan, What year is your car? I had the regassing done on my 98 recently and that was very cold out of the vents, around 4 degrees according to the specs.