D8driver

You could ask Dave / Prolex Uk if he still does meccatune. These are plug and play and so far all the sets I fitted keep working. Most of the hardware can be monted on the rear side of the crashbar to keep the engine bay free of wires.

Must be soft metall, mine only did 15 mph. and the complete subframe was toast. Stopping 1422 kg at once sideways by one rim will cause a lot of force on parts that aren't designed for this.... Mechanic told me he had seen it before and it's the weeks spot of the IS.

Sounds o.k., My right rear wheel looked like that after just a week (hitted a kerb at low speed). Only the wheel looked damaged and I was able to drive (a short distance that is). After that the misery began and it ended with an all new subframe, dampers, hub and a lot of work (took 2 weeks) at the end there was a bill of 3300 pounds...... (but the car drove well again). Since then I have winter tires and keep the car well alligned.

Had both, The B&M has a much shorter throw and shifting gives the feel of being in a race game. B&M is nice if you regard your car as a toy but the missus will hate it and so will every other driver that just expects transport from a to b. B&M makes a bit more noise but if you use load of thick grease it will stay within limits. The TRD is right in the middle of standard and B&M. Fantastic feel and just right for this type of car furthermore it adds no extra noises to the interior and it makes the "clunk" sound while shifting from first to second dissapear. Think the TRD is the way to go. Only downside it's expensive (towards 275 pounds) and not that easy tp obtain. P.s. stay away from the "waffenschmiede" shortshifter from ebay. It is cheaper but just a bad copy of the trd and it will cause trouble.

I got the TDI katana. Bit pricey but perfect fit, very well finished, it gave my blue flame a louder and deeper sound and the motor revved up much easier without any strange sounds. Think the trick with the pulse pipe definitely brings more power. Downside is that the katana caused an incindental error "engine running lean" but after a few alterations tot the fuel system this didn't happen anymore.

If you're good with tools a turbo would be the way to go (a new Garett or IHI with a bit of luck won't cost half of a M62 that will set you back approx 1400 pound, and good ones with not too high mileage are rare). By the way you could go BOV and drop the valve (I shut mine and ran the car for severall months on just the BOV which worked out just fine)

I guarantee you that building a kit yourself will cost far more than Gords offer. Since the price I wanted for a perfect compressor allready is out of your budget (it was extremely low compared to the prices worn ones bring on ebay) building a kit will become a hopeless task and it might be wiser to keep the car original. So my only advice will be to keep is realistic and count in that a kit will cost you over 2000 pound in the end or stay away from this project (and be honest, if it was cheap or easy numbers of member would allready have done the trick without buying overpriced TTE kits)

Indeed all Lhd but loads have been converted to rhd with parts from lesser modells. Owned several of them and a good one (no mods/damage/full service history) is worth twice the value of a late IS200 (at least over here). Chance is small it's one of the last evo modells (up to 265 bhp) but if you find one contact a lancia club and ask them what to look for (of have the forum guru check the car). So: not for daily use but if all is good a swap you'll never regret.

Fitting a S/c in open air can be done (not too hard). If you still got the black ecu that's easy to install so no problem there either. If you got the silver one I would't want to do this on a rainy day. (for unplugging the wires I would suggest to have the tool available that TTE advises, as small/customised mini screwdriver will work but not as well)

Go for 12000K then you have purple lights, saw them once on an Astra and think only Prince (in a time long gone) would like these. And the police will only laugh at you......

The type of oil you use depends on the use of your Lex, that ist weather conditions and if it´s tuned or not. I have had goed experiences wil Castrol of Mobil 1 5w 30, 5w 40 or 5 w 50 all fully synthetic, the 0w 30 was imho a bit too thin but could also be an option. Basically I thing every oil between 0w 30 and 15w 40 is ok as long as the api sl approval is there and it´s branded. Difference between 0w-5w and 10w and up is that the car starts better at lower temperatures and the motor ist lubracated much faster after a cold start, especially the difference between 5w and 15w is too big and my car ran a lot better after removing the new 15w40 oil the garage put erratically in it and exchanging it for 5w 40.

P0420 error like Yemgi said is the most common. I don't think it's the cat but check your lambda sensors because every time I saw P0420 it was one of these failing.

This "filler thing" is a pain in the *** and very dilicate. I is supposed to be easily removable by unklickicg a few plastic parts that hold/align it (the ones that do nothing). If you removed it a few times thes stop klicking (at least they did wit my SX). Ordered a few new plastic bits and left it in place since.

The prolex is a lot louder (at least the one I heard) and it's just a back box where blueflame delivers a cat-back for the same money.

Blueflame is o.k. for what you pay. However you got to pray the welder doesn't haven an off day and quality can vary from thrash to quite nice. Ssometimes some welds aren't completed/sealed and I've allready seen two exhausts where they forgot to weld the lambda thread in. No replies to mails completes the picture of well priced but also value for money...... (but I do like the sound of mine)