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Size Of Front Speakers In Aristo/gs300


skeet94
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Hey people,

I was just wondering what size mids in the front (door speakers) of the Aristo are...are they 6.5" mids?

I'm curious about anyone having done anything to the ICE in a Aristo/GS300 with the Touchscreen CD Player. I'm looking at basically upgrading the front speakers as they don't really sound "ALL THAT" to me. Sure enough they sound good but not good enough lol.

Anybody know how to remove the speakers? Or has anyone ever done what I'm saying above? Using the stock 6disc changer with a new amp? Or does anyone know what impedance mids are being used? 4ohm? I'm already upgrading the subwoofer this month with a new one...a nice new 10" sub IB in the rear deck made by Elemental Designs should get the lower end sounding not so muddy.

Anyone that can help me?

Thanks,

Mitul.

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To remove the Speakers - quite sure it's the same on the MK II.

"There are 7 screws holding the Door panel in, 3 under below the door pockets, 1 is under the removal cover under the handle, 1 is under the window switch (lever out), 1 is in the side vent and 1 is in the door spacer near the top of the inside door flange.

Then pull the panel from the bottom outwards, this will release the clips, then push/pull the panel upwards to release the clips that hold the window felt rubber to the inside of the window. It's not easy but will release.

The speaker housing is held into place with 4 screws, remove the wiring for the speakers and tweeters (only applies to the front - the wiring for the tweeters). The speaker is held in with another 4 screws.

To fit larger speakers, you'll need to open the speaker hole out depending on the size of your speaker, I used a dremel to do this. You'll also need to re-wire the speaker leads, you understand when you see, not hard. When your ready to fit the new speakers in, you may need to sand the rim on the plastic speaker box to give a good seal for the port, again I used a dremel for this.

To get a good sound from these, you'll need to seal the speakers as the hole will not be a perfect circle, I used silcone sealer. Normally the sealer is dry enough after about 4 Hrs to allow you to place everything back again.

Word of warning though, make sure you have clean out the speaker box well, anything left in will give a rattle sound when the speaker is used, luckly I found this out during the testing before I sealed everything.

From start to finish, it took about 4 - 5 Hrs to do"

I'm using 12" Boxed 200 Watt Sub in the boot and soon another 12" in the parcel shelf, both will be powered by 250 Watt Amps.

The door speakers are an odd size - 6 3/4 " midi 15W 4 Ohm, front and rear are all the same size, I changed mine to 7" Subs for the front and and 7" two way for the rears - all 70 W all round, sounds very good now.

Hope this helps.

BR

Paul

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Thanks for the info man it's really given me a few ideas here and there :).

I'm just going to be replacing the mids with some JL XR mids and the tweets well I'll see if I can remove the existing ones, if not then I might as well leave it as it looks like a PITA to remove them without damaging them. Also got a 10" Elemental Designs 11Kv2 to run IB in the rear. The rears will just be some JL Audio XR Coaxials.

You have any idea how to wire the inputs of the stock CD Changer into an amp? I mean where is the amp first of all? And if there's different cables on the amp, I'd like to know which is which? That way I can swap out the amps hehe and if I can do that I'll be going fully three way active with the components up front with about 200watts RMS per side off a ADS PQ20 amplifier (for tweets & mids) and a Hifonics Vulcan for the midbass drivers. All out SQ whilst having everything ALMOST stock looking! :D

Thanks again,

Mitul.

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You have any idea how to wire the inputs of the stock CD Changer into an amp? I mean where is the amp first of all? And if there's different cables on the amp, I'd like to know which is which? That way I can swap out the amps hehe and if I can do that I'll be going fully three way active with the components up front with about 200watts RMS per side off a ADS PQ20 amplifier (for tweets & mids) and a Hifonics Vulcan for the midbass drivers. All out SQ whilst having everything ALMOST stock looking! :D

Thanks again,

Mitul.

Don't know about the amps in the MK II, they may be in the boot under the boot lining, also if you find the model of the amp, you may find the schematics on the net for the wiring. On mine, the amp controlled the rear sub as well as the rear speakersa in the doors. In the end, completely removed the amp and completely re-wired the whole system. Was easier than trying to figure out which wire went where, also will help when I want to put back to stock for re-sale.

Normally the CD Changer goes straight into the radio via either the standard DIN plug or via an RCA to DIN Adaptor. Suppose the easiest way to re-wire would be to pull the rear sub speaker wires - check that it does not go through the stock amp and wire in another amp of your choice thus by passing the amp.

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the amp on a Mk2 is behind/below the glovebox.

The stock speakers on a MK2 are 2ohm 4inch panasonic units, mounted into larger plastic soundboxes - these can easily be replaced by 6 inch speakers front and back mounted into MDF panels. You can replace them with 4ohm units no problem.

I'd suggest taking out the stock crossovers and swapping with active ones too.

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Thanks Rodders, by what I said above I meant is it easy to get to the door skin? The actual metal part of the outer skin of the door? :)

Also how do I get to the amp behind the glovebox? Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

Mitul.

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Thanks Rodders, by what I said above I meant is it easy to get to the door skin? The actual metal part of the outer skin of the door? :)

Also how do I get to the amp behind the glovebox? Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

Mitul.

The door panel comes of quite easily as long as you don't forget the hideen screw that is under the cover behind the chrome handle. Take that off and you can get pretty much anywheres inside the door.

The glovebox is very easy to remove - open it past its plastic limiters and take the screws out - the whole thing falls on the floor.

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