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Power Steering Troubles - A Tale Of Woe


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Just thought I would share my experience for the record. I finally got my 92 LS400 back from the shop after 4 weeks, and thought that writing a big post would leave a trail of search terms for someone in the future.

Background = The steering had completely locked up momentarily a few times in the first 5000 miles of ownership, and only ever at slow speed. Car has done 150K but the steering rack and pump were done last year, before I owned it. I cleaned the solenoid valve on the rack (it was clogged) but that didn't improve things. Finally the pump ate itself and I managed to limp to my nearest workshop. Luckily it was all left turns as the car would not turn right!

Had the rack reconditioned and the pump rebuilt, only to find out the pump put out "too much pressure" and couldn't be gauranteed so only option was a new one(!!) instead. Cost me £1100 to fix in total - half as much as I had paid for the car.

During its stay in the shop they managed to drain the Battery completely. It saddens me they didn't disconnect it, I thought that was a fundamental rule when working on cars. Anyway refurbed rack and new pump in, hand it back to me, no gauges working. State "hey my gauges are not working, neither are all my power windows, seats radio etc.". Hmmmm, they give it a rev and everything lit up and works. Next morning, gauges don't work again even after revving. Drive only 6 miles and the car starts kangaroo jumping and has no power and no drive. Turns out Battery is flat. Alternator not producing any charge. Arrgggghhh, RAC van connects jumper leads and a very large screwdriver jammed on the gas pedal charges the Lexus Battery from the service van after 15 minutes.

Back at shop, very unhappy, get the alternator changed for recon. Starts up on fully charged Battery, no gauges, no power anything. Investigate the engine bay fuses, no problems. Pull apart the interior to look at the interior fuse panel, no power at all on any circuits. Hmmm, shop thinks its the ignition switch. Looked at the circuit diagram, tailights are out too so isn't the ign sw, as the lights are not wired through it. Turns out on "closer inspection" that the main fusible link (120Amp!!!) has popped. You have to unbolt these fuse links, luckily I was there when they tried to pry mine out and I stopped them before they damaged anything. One £11 fuse and all is working as it should.

Lessons I have learned -

1) Providing the actual lexus workshop manual to a mechanic is pointless as no one bothers to read instructions anymore.

2) Old cars cost money

3) Always redo the alternator when you do the powersteering pump

4) Lexus stealers may be expensive, but doing it cheaper isn't always a good alternative

5) Sometimes if you want a job done properly........

So mid-September off to Germany and the Autobahns to give the new W rated tyres a good workout. Report will follow.

:driving:

Leadfoot.

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Just thought I would share my experience for the record.  I finally got my 92 LS400 back from the shop after 4 weeks, and thought that writing a big post would leave a trail of search terms for someone in the future. 

Background = The steering had completely locked up momentarily a few times in the first 5000 miles of ownership, and only ever at slow speed.  Car has done 150K but the steering rack and pump were done last year, before I owned it.  I cleaned the solenoid valve on the rack (it was clogged) but that didn't improve things. Finally the pump ate itself and I managed to limp to my nearest workshop. Luckily it was all left turns as the car would not turn right!

Had the rack reconditioned and the pump rebuilt, only to find out the pump put out "too much pressure" and couldn't be gauranteed so only option was a new one(!!) instead. Cost me £1100 to fix in total - half as much as I had paid for the car.

During its stay in the shop they managed to drain the battery completely. It saddens me they didn't disconnect it, I thought that was a fundamental rule when working on cars.  Anyway refurbed rack and new pump in, hand it back to me, no gauges working.  State "hey my gauges are not working, neither are all my power windows, seats radio etc.". Hmmmm, they give it a rev and everything lit up and works.  Next morning, gauges don't work again even after revving.  Drive only 6 miles and the car starts kangaroo jumping and has no power and no drive.  Turns out battery is flat.  Alternator not producing any charge.  Arrgggghhh, RAC van connects jumper leads and a very large screwdriver jammed on the gas pedal charges the Lexus battery from the service van after 15 minutes.

Back at shop, very unhappy, get the alternator changed for recon. Starts up on fully charged battery, no gauges, no power anything. Investigate the engine bay fuses, no problems. Pull apart the interior to look at the interior fuse panel, no power at all on any circuits.  Hmmm, shop thinks its the ignition switch. Looked at  the circuit diagram, tailights are out too so isn't the ign sw, as the lights are not wired through it.  Turns out on "closer inspection" that the main fusible link (120Amp!!!) has popped.  You have to unbolt these fuse links, luckily I was there when they tried to pry mine out and I stopped them before they damaged anything.  One £11 fuse and all is working as it should.

Lessons I have learned -

1) Providing the actual lexus workshop manual to a mechanic is pointless as no one bothers to read instructions anymore.

2) Old cars cost money

3) Always redo the alternator when you do the powersteering pump

4) Lexus stealers may be expensive, but doing it cheaper isn't always a good alternative

5) Sometimes if you want a job done properly........

So mid-September off to Germany and the Autobahns to give the new W rated tyres a good workout.  Report will follow.

:driving:

Leadfoot.

Sorry to here of your troubles..... :driving: Enjoy the Autobahn :driving:

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  • 1 month later...
Where is the main fusible link located.  I think I may have the same problem with no power.

Thank you

The main fusible link is a separate unit of 4 big fuses next to the other main fuses in the LS400 engine bay terminal box that is directly behind the Battery. If you take the lid off the box and look underneth it you will see the circuit descriptions. You can look into the top of the fusible link to see if it is blown or not, torch may be useful.

I don't know your model at all, but hopefully it is the same. Remember the fuse links will more than likely be bolted in place, they don't just pull out like smaller fuses.

Good luck. :)

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  • 4 months later...

All the power went out on my 95 LS400 the day after I bought it (bought it with 100,000 miles on it). Turns out it was only the negative Battery cable terminal that needed to be taken apart and cleaned real good. I found that the positive terminal was also quite dirty, but it was only obvious after the terminal was removed from the Battery.

Ironicly my other car had the same problem about a week later......

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