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98 Ls400 Suspension Removal


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As title guys looking at swapping out all my struts tomorrow so any tips would be gratefully appreciated.

Do I really need to remove back seat?

Russ.

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Sorry but rear seat has to come out to enable removal of rear parcel shelf as the top mounting bolts are underneath this.

If you PM your email I will send you the suspension section of the factory manual.

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Oh Bugger was hoping it was only mechanical parts that needed removing not interior trim and bits, clips always break and then you have rattles and knocks when driving!!!!

That would be great Steve if you have it, you have PM

I did find this, is it the same on the facelift?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxOeKbjsljA

My only question is I have spring clamps the same as the guy in the vid now if i use them to compress the springs while on the struts on car can i not use them to shorten strut to remove easier?

Cheers!

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Hi Russ,

The rear struts will come out from under the wheel arch without compressing the spring in situ. It's a little bit of a fiddle but pretty much covered fully in the youtube video. I changed my rear struts and springs last year and the only difference in procedure was that I removed the rear calipers and caliper brackets for better access, rather than loosening the rear anti-roll bar. Apart from that the video echoed my own experience very closely.

I found that the rear seat removal and refit took just as much time as changing the struts and refitting the rear seat squab was a bit of a PITA when doing it singlehanded.

The only other advice I would offer is to bolt the strut up loosely with the three top mounts before trying to align the lower eye bush. I held the suspension arm up with a small hydraulic jack and did the final alignment with a tapered drift to get the lower bolt started. As in the video, the second side went far quicker than the first. Not an easy-peasy job for the beginner, but not particularly difficult. A little bit of brute force required here and there. The rubber gaiters over the strut tube are part of the upper rubber mount, and mine were also well past their sell-by date. I didn't like the price of new top mounts so I too cut them off and am running without those gaiters now.

Regards, Alan

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Oh Bugger was hoping it was only mechanical parts that needed removing not interior trim and bits, clips always break and then you have rattles and knocks when driving!!!!

That would be great Steve if you have it, you have PM

I did find this, is it the same on the facelift?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxOeKbjsljA

My only question is I have spring clamps the same as the guy in the vid now if i use them to compress the springs while on the struts on car can i not use them to shorten strut to remove easier?

Cheers!

Manual section emailed :)

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Right before I put up a few comments on the work that was carried out this Sunday and a couple of pointers that will definitely help people out I would like to thank Steve, and Alan for taking time out to even bother helping thanks guys, its peeps like you that Forums need!

@Steve, Thanks for the Manual although when i did open it I thought "**** what do i need all this for" Then spent 3 hrs reading and going through it all lol!

How over engineered are these cars?!?!?!

@Alan cheers for the pointers.

I did use the clamps on strut removal to shorten the whole unit and they did just slip out with no prob's, so did make life a bit easier it also took pressure of the fixings which also helped.

The one main thing that I found was the MK4 hasn't got the upper hooks they are 3 bolts hidden behind the flaps of leather under the headrests, which I found after half hr yanking and pulling,

What this actually means is that YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE SEAT AT ALL!!! You just undo the 3 top bolts and pull the top forward slightly you then pop the Sub cover off which allows enough room to lift shelf and get to the bolts!

Hope this helps the next person!

Russ.

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