trevman

Hi, A few people have asked about replacing rear discs, as I was replacing mine today I thought I'd do a bit of a "beginners guide / how to" Firstly chock the front wheels, jack the car up, with the handbrake released. Remove the road wheel Remove the spring clip A Working from the inner side of the caliper tap out the pin B Remove the two springs C Then try to prise out the brake pads, if unable to remove them proceed to removing the caliper. Remove the two 17mm caliper retaining bolts as shown above If you didn't manage to remove the pads before do it now. With the car in neutral and the handbrake off rotate the disc so that the black rubber lug is in the 6 o'clock position. Prise out the lug Using a torch look inside the hole to familiarise yourself with the position and shape of the handbrake cog. Insert a flat head screwdriver and keep flicking downwards on the cog until it will go no further (this slackens off the handbrake shoes) Now try to slide the disc off, if it will not release take a hammer a deliver a few heavy taps to the rear of the disc to help free it. With the disc removed you can clean off any debris, also apply some copper grease between the wheel studs where the disc will sit. With the new disc fitted in poisition you can re-adjust the handbrake. The same method applies only this time spin the cog in an upwards direction. Keep doing it until the wheel locks and cannot be rotated, and then slacken of a few flicks. Remember to replace the rubber lug. Next using a G-clamp force the caliper pistons back (remember to remove the cap on brake fluid reservoir in the engine compartment). Then refit the caliper, tighten the two 17mm bolts to the specified torque (104Nm if my memory serves). Slide in your pads (after fitting the anti-squeel shims and applying some copper grease to the backs of them) Refit the springs and slide pin. Refit the brake fluid reservoir cap and pump the brake pedal a few times, also check the operation of the handbrake. When you're happy with that refit the road wheel (adding copper grease to the rear) and tighten to specified torque (103Nm) and you're done. These are the tools you'll need.

Ok thanks guys, pretty much what I thought. I was considering selling it to upgrade to an IS220d SE-L, but reading on the forum a lot of owners seem unhappy with IS220d. So I'll probably hold on to it for a bit, might even do a few mods. ;)

Hi Guys, I'm thinking of selling my 200 Sport (or trading it in). I was wondering, if you were buying an IS200 what would you be willing to pay for the following; IS200 Sport (2002 / 02 plate) Bright Red Mileage 68k 6 months MOT, 5 months TAX Full Service History (not Lexus) Cambelt Changed at 60k Bodywork immaculate, no dinks, dents or scuffs. Interior immaculate Wheels generally good condition but with some corrosion round edges. 4x Toyo Proxes TR-1 Tyes (8 motnhs old) Everything Works, NO ball joint, tracking, suspension, gemeotry, tyre wear problems. Original car with NO modifications Only faults were interior light bulb failed, also needed a new holding pin/spring for brake caliper. This isn't an ad, I'm just gauging opinion.

O.k. so which is it then ? A or B ? A is the same bolt as the engine drain and B is the same bolt as the diff drain.

Hi guys, Two pictures below of the IS200 gearbox. Can anybody tell me which is the filler and the drain plug bolts. I have a workshop diagram but it is completely different to my box. Gearbox from underneath: - which is drain plug ? Gearbox from underneath and left hand side: which is filler plug ? Any help very much appreciated.

Did the dealer say why the fluid needed changing ? Were there any ill effects ?

Mmm, it's the lower suspension arm that concerns me, some cars are a nightmare to lower it. My car recently flew through it's second MOT, however I've noticed a knocking from the front right, which sounds like a ball joint. May consider changing it myself, depending on how forgiving the arm is.

Are the ball joints easy to change on the IS ?

Hi guys, could somebody please remind me which is the filler and the drain plug on the IS200 gearbox. I have a parts diagram showing both but my box seems to have an extra 3 bolts which all look likely possibilities. There are two which could be the drain, a standard bolt on the side at the bottom and right next to that on the bottom is a torx bolt. For the filler there is a funny shaped flimsy looking bolt half way up, a large bolt with an earth connected, a smaller bolt near the top and finally a hex bolt whcih is situated much further forward than my diagram shows. I can't remember which is which and don't want to undo anything just in case i'm wrong. Any help much appreciated.

Sounds like a problem with the shims, or no copper grease between the caliper and pads.

Ok. guys, did my second calculation for economy and this time used the method described by vyker whereby you fill the tank, use some and then refill the tank, thus working out litres used and mileage etc.etc. Anyway came back lower this time, but still pretty good at 35mpg

DONE :)

Recommendations: Replace Cabin/Pollen filter Renew Engine Oil & Filter Renew Coolant/Anti-freeze Renew - Brake fluid Renew - Air Filter Replace - Remote Fob Batteries Clean & Lubricate Sunroof Seal There are many things to check, most are just the physical condition or function of standard items such as lights, wipers, washers, horn, heaters, window & door operation, dash warning lamps not on etc etc. Just a general check of the car to make sure everything looks good and does it's job ok. Other checks include underbonnet components such as fluid levels, condition of belts and hoses etc. The full list is quite long so I've PM'd it to you.

This is a big issue nowadays as our roads have now declined to such a poor standard. For help & advice see: http://www.potholes.co.uk

Toyota Part number for the owners manual is: OM534-40E / 01999-53440 It's quite a large manual with 326 pages, covers IS200 / IS300 and all models including Sport & Sportcross

That depends on how competant a diy mechanic you are and how much you can afford to spend. I'd say the oil and filter is a must. After that you're looking at air filter and spark plugs. Assuming everything else is working fine you could probably get away with leaving it at that for a while. In your position I would get the main service items done gradually, say one or two things a month. Don't forget that the majority of the service is just to check items, like hoses, brake wear, levels etc. and although they recommend brake fluid change every two years if you actually have the tool to test the brake fluid you'll find that it will remain in good condition for more than two years (in most cases) so changing it isn't really a priority. The same applies to coolant. The one thing that is really important when it comes to servicing is the cambelt change, and I'd recommend getting that done at a dealer or at least a very good garage that gives a guarantee. Whenever you get this belt changed it's best to get the tensioners changed and on some cars the water pump. I can't remember off the top of my head what the interval is for cam belt change on the IS. If you need a list of service recommendations for 40k or 50k miles, let me know. Finally, the risks of not doing the service (with the exception of the cambelt) are that the vehicle will not run at optimum performance, also you won't be aware of any defect which you may otherwise have spotted whilst doing the checks. :) Hope that helps

Yeh Hammerite smooth is perfect, no need for primer, just give the calipers a good clean first and maybe a rub with wire wool. As for lacquer I just used a standard spray tin from Halfords, build up a few layers.

Well, I brought the car 3 years ago from a Lexus dealer, it had 21k on the clock and had just had it's 20k service and an RAC inspection. Lexus fitted 5 new alloy wheels (as the old ones were starting to corrode) and four new Bridgestone Potenza tyres. The car hasn't been modified in any way, I've never had any geo/alignment done as it handles fine and tyres don't wear uneven or excessively. I've always serviced the car myself following Lexus schedules exactly, everything done correctly right down to torque values. It's garaged at night, washed and polished regularly, and that's it. I am getting far better consumption now than when I brought the car, at first it seemed to be a real heavy drinker. I filled the tank yesterday so I'm gonna recalculate fuel consumption using the method Vyker suggested. I'll let you know what I get.

Black with white stickers or silver with black stickers, and a nice gloss finish. I have the black with white on my car, subtle but effective.

I know what you mean, that's why I thought I had miscalculated at first. I put fuel in when the needle was on the 1/4 mark, I put £41 in which took the gauge upto just under the full mark, reset the trip to 0 and when the needle reached the 1/4 again I had done 412 miles. I also calculated it at the approximate mid point and that gave 37 mpg. I must admit I does sound very high. I'll shall keep doing it and see what I get.

Just coming up to 49k

thats outstanding... how on earth did you manage it? you must have been very very froogle. 50mph/6th gear lane 1 motorway driving? No not really, I just tend to put my foot down as required, straight into fast lane on mway, tend to sit around 80.. I also drive most of the time with the traction control off, but that shouldn't make a great difference, and use Asda unleaded 95RON. I think the ECU has properly adapted to my driving style, car as been serviced regularly and is top condition. I'm still pleasantly suprised by the consumption though. :)

I've just accurately calculated my fuel consumption. I spent £41 which is 43.66 litres and got 412 miles, if I did the sums right that equates to 43mpg (UK gallon) That's with a mixture of motorway miles and town driving, quite a few cold starts with short journeys, an MOT, aircon on and off as required, and I lent the car to my dad (different style of driving) for 60 miles. Better than I thought.

Check out this website for the cheapest fuel in your area: Petrol Prices Also if you get an Asda credit card you get 2p per litre off at Asda pumps. Witht that taken into account i'm currently paying 91.9p for unleaded.

http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...DME:B:FSEL:DE:1 It works well, see this thread: Fault Codes