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Everything posted by GreyArea

  1. Thank you both for the replies, gives me a good idea of how much I need to budget. My IS200 is already 11 years old and due to change in circumstance, I probably won't be keeping it for too long, so will probably go for the Exedy. Simon
  2. The clutch on my IS200 has started slipping, when laden going up a hill and pretty horrible bite when pulling away (well, more than normal, anyway!) I've just been made redundant, so price is an issue for me, but need to get this sorted. I've found some so-called genuine Lexus clutches on eBay, for around £150, such as this one. Is this OK, or should I be looking somewhere more reputable? I've seen some comments that the clutch is easy to replace - can anyone give me a time estimate for a competent mechanic, so I know what sort of cost I'd be looking at? Thanks for any info you are able to provide.
  3. My IS 200 is coming up on 10 years and I've got a major condensation issue. Car's not being used much currently and I don't have a garage, and the condensation is so bad, it's forming big fat drips on the inside of the glass. I've ordered a new pollen filter and I'm going to get the air con re-gassed, but I'm thinking the amount of condensation indicates a leak somewhere. Are there any known areas for this? I've had water in the boot (left-hand side)on previous years, which I think was the roof drain, and I removed the bung to drain it. Bung seems to have fallen out as it's no longer in place - could it just be that small hole letting in damp air that could be the issue? Edit - Sorry, posted this in the wrong area, meant to post it in IS200 Club!
  4. Had to have my tracking fixed today, and while a wheel was off, the garage noted that the lower, rear buses are split and deteriorating. The garage couldn't find parts in any of their books, so rang Lexus. Lexus claimed that the bushes are not available on their own, and only come as part of the ball joint (I think that's what they said). I've been quoted £160 a side. Does this sound right? Am I better off taking it to Lexus? Simon
  5. I bought some of the pulsing brake light LEDs from someone on here last year. I didn't know it until recently, but one of the lamps is faulty. They both work fine if I don't have my lights on, but if I have my lights on, then on one lamp, the brake part only illuminates once, then won't illuminate when the brake is subsequently pressed. This is regardless of normal, or emergency braking. Any ideas what causes this? Is it possible to get a replacement unit, or are they only sold as pairs? I like the extra safety of the pulsing brake lights, but it's no good if only one side is coming on. I've put standard bulbs in, and they show no faults, so I'm guessing it's a circuit board problem. Thanks Simon
  6. D'oh - should have thought of that! Cheers Simon
  7. Where can I get a replacement cigarette lighter from? The original one's plastic holder is broken, so whenever I remove my mobile charger or GPS, the whole metal sleeve pulls out of the console. The result is that it keeps pulling the wires off the bottom, and stops working. I can't find anyone on eBay, or other places selling one. Any idea where I can get one?
  8. The Big yellow boxes are Gatsos, with analogue (35mm film), they get your from behind. The smaller yellow ones are digital and have an internet connection - they never run out of film! The blue ones that have a yellow plate that faces you are Tru-velo. They use induction loops rather than radar to detect your speed. They use an infra-red flash so as not to blind you, and were introduced so that you couldn't use the "Ferguson defence" where you claim you were not the driver. They are digital, too. SPECS (average speed cameras) tend to be on gantries which are painted yellow. The Cobalt-blue cameras are traffic master - they don't detect speed, just read your plate for traffic flow information.
  9. I've got a copy up for grabs too. First person to PM me gets it!
  10. Slowing down, at around 50mph, I get some wobble through the steering wheel and a bit of a squeak at low speed. When the car went in for its MOT last week, I asked them to check the nearside brake disc, as I suspected it was warped. They said there was some run out, but it was minimal and nothing to worry about. Today, coming from the same wheel, I'm hearing a grinding/squealing noise, almost like metal on metal. There's no difference in braking ability, and the sound seems to be getting less severe, probably because the pad has been worn (done about 80 miles today). I can't get the car into the garage until Tuesday. So, does this sound like a development of a warped disc, or something worse? If it's just a warped disc, I'll buy replacements and get them fitted. I don't do a lot of hard braking, so I'm surprised that the disc warped in the first place. Cheers Simon
  11. I've got two of the IS220 dashmounts, which were sent to me rather than IS200 ones. You can have it for £10 plus postage. It's this one here
  12. No. I emailed him today asking where it was. He said he'd only been able to post it today, because he was waiting for a new CD. A bit odd, as he said he was selling it because he had changed his car and didn't need it, in the auction. I was planning to fit it this weekend, so if it doesn't turn up tomorrow, I'll be well annoyed!
  13. I finally managed to do it! This time I gave a good yank on the glove box surround, which gave me enough room to get the amp out and flush to the pollen filter. I was then able to easily remove the cable and plug it into the bypass lead. I've written a quick guide for anyone who needs it in the future! Simon
  14. Got my MOT next week and it occurred to me that as the Fog to brake light conversion isn't legal, it might get picked up by the MOT test and result in a fail. I've also got HIDs fitted in the headlamps, but I'm confident that that won't cause a fail. Has anyone failed due to the Fog to brake light conversion? What do you think? Best to be on the safe side and disable it for the MOT? Cheers Simon
  15. You need a fascia kit, and an amp by pass lead. I bought both mine last week from ebay, all though I'm less than impressed with the fascia kit - it's all plastic and leaves a big gap around the head unit, which looks crap. The amp bypass lead is the tricky bit, as you have to unplug a connection from the Amp, which is hidden away behind the glovebox, with the plugs facing towards the engine bay. You need to remove the glovebox, then probably remove the lower trim panel and unbolt the amp, to give you enough room to unplug the lead - oh yes and you need to snip through the two cable ties holding the thick cable to the amp as well. Once you've done this, you connect the unplugged cable to your bypass lead and thread this through to the new fascia. I'm stuck on the unplugging the lead from the amp bit so I hope you have more luck than me! Simon
  16. I'm going to try a new plan of attack on Saturday. I have been pressing the clip in, but haven't been able to hold a torch and get a screwdriver held at the same time, in order to prise the plug out. Hopefully with more light, I'll have more joy.
  17. I can imagine. If you lived a bit nearer, I'd try and bribe you with beer to show me how it's done! I'm sure I'll get there eventually.
  18. Yeah, I'm pressing the plug in, but still can't get the damn thing out. I guess because it's been plugged in for six years, it's gotten very comfortable and doesn't want to leave it's snug home! I'll try again at the weekend when I've got the whole day to waste!
  19. Yeah taken that one out. I can move the amp forward, just can't get the stupid plug out. Like I said, I spent about an hour on it, then gave up in disgust! It looked like the plug was starting to come out, so I tried to lever it out with a screwdriver, but it was damaging the plug. As this has to plug into the bypass lead, I thought I'd better stop! Simon
  20. So, I've bought myself a new headunit, got a new fascia and the amp bypass lead. Read everyone's comments on how to fit the bypass lead - taken off some of the trim under the glovebox, unbolted the amp, cut the loom cable ties, etc. Now I can see which plug I need to remove, but the clip that holds it in place is facing away form me, towards the outside of the car. I'm pressing it in, pulling, twisting - nothing. I've just spent an hour trying to get the flippin thing to unplug from the amp, cut my hand up and now I've really steaming! How the heck are you supposed to get the damn thing out of the amp? If I could get the amp out of the glovebox space, that would help, but of course it doesn't fit. Any ideas? Thanks Simon
  21. Superb! Cheers for that - I'll take a look. I've got a pair if you're interested, plus the load resistors you need for them.
  22. Get an HID upgrade kit, or at the very least some higher wattage halogen bulbs. Fog lights won't help you because they are a spread beam, designed to help you see the edges of the road in inclement weather. They are not the same as driving lights. In addition, you'll just end up annoying oncoming traffic with the extra glare, not forgetting that it's also illegal to use your fog lights (front or rear) if the weather conditions don't warrant it.
  23. My Kit didn't have colour coded wires and I initially plugged them in the wrong way round. Didn't cause any problems though. However, I'm pretty sure you can assume that the red is live and the white is ground.
  24. Any ideas on how much this would cost, fitted to an IS200 then?
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