oedipus

Ahhh, so it is the same as a normal cabled clutch, just making sure I know it does start slipping before I get stranded somewhere. Thanks My Lexus dealer told me to put it in 4th, not in 6th. Handbrake on and then drive away swiftly. The engine should stall immediately with a shock. When it hesitates or keeps running, try again and verify if it was you or the clutch... :winky:

I'd recommend you not to save on tyres. Your car touches ground on 4 places the size of a postcard. Tyres are expensive, but they are so important to your safety. It's not about "racing around" or so, it's about minimal stopping distances when you need them. One "fear second" at 50km/h (ca. 30mph) equals roughly 15m/s, that's the length of 3 fullsize automobiles! When you crash, you'll probably lose more money than what you disinvested in tyres? On the other hand, quality is also in durability. My Michelin Pilot Sports are the top. Never thought they could be so good. Other good brands I've driven are Good Year Eagle F1, Pirelli P7000 and PZero Nero, Continental SportContact2, etc. I never had a flat tyre, unlike people I know that drive Falken, Nokian, Sunny and other Korean and Chinese brands. They seem more prone to damage. Last but not least: Hankook is a make that surprises. In recent tests, I saw they score absolutely top. These are the results of the Summer tyre test of the German Sport Auto: Summert tyre test 2009 Continental SportContact3 = highly recommended Pirelli P Zero = highly recommended Hankook S1 Evo = highly recommended Michelin Pilot Sport = highly recommended Goodyear Eagle F1 = recommended Dunlop Sport Maxx GT = recommended Vredestein Ultrac Sessantra = recommended Bridgestone RFT Potenza RE050 A = recommended Toyo Proxes T1-R = conditionally recommended Kumho Ecsta KU19 = conditionally recommended (PS: the P Zero is not to be confused with other Pirelli types like P Zero Corsa, P Zero Nero or P Zero Rosso.)

I was about to recommend the same thing. Tein was not an option for me, since they have no homologation over here in Belgium (and other countries on the Continent). I would have taken the SuperStreet with EDFC if I could have. The next best thing is the KW V3 Inoxline. The springs on this kit are made by Eibachs and the dampers are Bilsteins. What I wanted to do with them, seemed no good idea. I wanted the KW V3 because of the flexibility to easily adjust your damping and lowering depending on the use I was going to make of my Lex (90% street, 10 different tracks like Zolder, Francorchamps & Nordschleife). I was discouraged to take the KW for that purpose, since the setup of the damping seems to be quite a tricky job to do. It must be done by a pro to get it right. So what was the point in paying double the price for a feature I was discouraged to use? Finally I settled with an Eibach Pro kit instead. The Eibachs are incredible. I didn't expect that much of a difference on my car. When my dampers are to be replaced, I'll for sure finish the job and take some Bilstein B6's. A stiffened antirollbar would be the cherry on the cake. So my personal recommendation would be: (1) get the Eibach Pro Kit (= TTE springs) (2) get some Bilsteins B6 (3) get some TTE antirollbars (or better) You'll be better served and cheaper off!

Q: "How did you find The Lexus Owners Club?" A: By the sticker on my car. Previous owner put it on.

I tried different things. It wasn't the balance (redid it by a specialist and same effect). ALso had the wheels checked and one was "unround" if you know what i mean. That's repaired now and I still get the same effect. Note that I'm using the same tyres as on another set of rims that didn't show this effect (yet). So it isn't related to the tyres either. Since those old rims are gone, I bought some brand new ones and bingo, I still the same. So not the balance, not the tyres, not the wheels. Since it is so limited and doesn't disturb me anymore, I'll get it fixed next time I'm at my dealer's.

> nope, don't like Dunlops, sorry. :o) No seriously, these look like as if you were trying to melt them? Never had that big a problem on mine. Did see some heavier inner tyre wear, but that was because the front was lowered far beyond tolerances (-5 I guess). Now that I have the Eibach springs fitted, I managed (with some difficulty... sigh but that's another story) to get them just within tolerance. But I only used my 17" once a year. Now definitively (with Lexus approval) on 18" (225/40 18).

Hi, why don't you swap your wheel with the spare? That will cost you just twice the mounting/unmounting and balancing for a long term fix! Your spare doesn't need to be in super condition , does it? I needed my spare once in 10 years in my previous car and it was avoidable! Now, when reading your initial post, I thought: "Hey, I have that too!" In 6th gear, my car makes somewhat of a resonance sound. Talked about it to Lexus and they told me it's normal, nothing to worry about, lots of manual IS cars have it and it doesn't need repairing. I also have judder in 1st when it's cold and I accelerate gently from standstill. Same answer there: they could change the clutch, but advised me to live with it and minimize it by avoiding to slip the clutch too much. A last thing I have is something that resembles a vibration and can be felt between 30 and 45kph with the left foot (mine is LHD) that sits on the footrest. I thought about wheel balance or a damaged rim, but after fitting brand new rims it was still there. Somebody told me it could be a ball bearing that is end of life, which could very well be so, 'cause I have the famous crack when gently braking and turning at the same time at lower speeds. Lots of documentation and mentions here and on the EU forum. About the smoke, I don't like it. Never seen that on my car. I would get it checked before your gasket blows or something else happens. Did you check for oil in the water/coolant? You should be able to see if it is white or blue smoke. Blue is oil, white is water in the combustion chamber. Water comes from your cooling circuit (e.g. gasket damaged?) while a tiny bit of blue could be less dangerous (e.g. damaged cilinder segment?). Lots of blue smoke however surely needs a pro advice.

I had a super time at the Nordschleife. Unfortunately, I didn't have the opportunity to talk to all of you guys and check out your cars in detail. Loved that Electric Orange ST and the lovely S200000000000... :shutit: . But I did get the occasion to meet up with Stav and his legendary TT. Man, what a sound! I thought my car was loud with the Blueflame. Couldn't hear it for a second when I drove behind you for the lap! Excellent! If only we could do such engine swaps in Belgium. (To compare: it took me 6 months to get my Eibach prokit approved here. :duh:) Next time, I really MUST experience your drive from the inside of your car! :winky: For very good pictures go and click on "Bilder" (=pictures) on this topic (posts 259, 265 & repeated in 268): http://euro.lexusownersclub.com/forums/ind...0177&st=255 Have fun! PS: Next meet on 16th of August?

Ze Germans want me to let you know that you will receive a warm welcome on Saturday around 13h00 in Breidscheid! The committee: Clafel, Mick, Borov, JS-75, Spook, Handyman , Black Lex (??), Michael I (?), Bakerman (?) and oedipus. How many UK members have enrolled in the meantime?

Was there at the week end and it was 35 euro a lap thats seems blooming expensive and hiked up, was it a special event or anything ? i was over there in march and it was as stated 22 euro Sure it wasn't a lap including the GP circuit? They sometimes do that: you get to ride the Schleife AND the GP circuit in one lap. On other occasions, the GP circuit is separately available for enthousiasts. Never driven that GP circuit myself though. Anyway, see you guys there then. I'll be there with two friends and the Lex. Looking forward to meeting you guys in person!

How many are you and where will you guys stay? I had already planned a week-end at the Ring with a collegue too. I'd really like to see that TT of yours up close, Stav!

Finally I passed my MOT (=what we call 'technical control'?) yesterday. It's final, I won't have to pass the geometry test again until I change the lowering. Which I am NOT considering. Lexus and my local tyre dealer (not the ones that f***ed up the geometry) explained me that most (FWD) cars only need a front geometry from time to time. But RWD cars, certainly after lowering, need 4-wheel geometry. If the geometry at the back is not good, you can't fit the front in the Lexus tolerance range. Which was mandatory to pass the MOT "lowering procedure". Since I had the Eibach kit fitted, I experienced understeer. At first, I thought it was due to my new tyres (PZero Rosso) on the front, but after fitting the OEM wheels again, I experienced the same understeer I didn't have before the lowering. Since I had the geometry done at my Lexus dealer's, I found the car a lot more agile and collaborative while cornering. Happy happy joy!!

Since the search function doesn't seem to work on your computer... :P Try this one: http://www.gromaudio.com/store/ipod_adapte...rom-i2-toy.html I got mine off their eBay store: http://stores.shop.benl.ebay.be/Grom-Audio...s__W0QQ_armrsZ1 When installing, follow the instructions on the how-to somewhere on this forum. Especially the part about taping in your center console is not to be neglected!

First AND second time. First time was after lowering, second time was at tyre "specialist".

Sounds ok to me too, but that appeared to be 0,26% too high to be allowed on the road... I'm busy trying to get this sorted with the Lexus Import division and the federal department of mobility. But that's another story. About the geometry, went to Lexus Brussels on Friday and they set it up within tolerance. They told me you have to start sorting things on the rear axle to make sure you can get the front axle within tolerance. Let's hope they got it right this time, 'cause it cost me dearly... I think a trip to WIM would have been less expensive, I could have even flown him in I think. :eerrrmm: Since the proof of the pudding is in the driving, I tested it out on the way home and was very surprised how the handling improved! Excellently spent money (although shamelessly expensive): they eliminated my understeer (on 17", must see what it gives on 18") and the oversteer is very controllable, exactly the way I like it. Oh yes baby! :D Now let's see what the technical control people think about it... :luck:

I had 18" Speedline GT One's with 225/40 ZR 18 tyres when the Eibach Pro kit was fitted. At the technical control centre, they made me fit the 17" OEM wheels (215/45 ZR 17), because 225/40 ZR 18 has a larger radius (0,26% out of tolerance, sigh) and should have been 215/40 ZR 18. I also had the geometry adjusted with the 17" wheels. Would wheel size make a difference for the geometry? Indeed, it seems very low to me too. What is causing this is unclear. I did see in the geometry that there is a difference in caster too. I don't remember the side, but one side is almost 1° difference with the other. But since this is not adjustable, they didn't make a problem out of it. My tyreguy told me the car probably took a (big) bump. Explaining why one of my OEM wheels was beyond repair lately... The current action plan is: go back to technical control centre tomorrow to see if and how far it's out of range. Friday checkup at Lexus Brussels to see if everything is ok with the suspension. Meanwhile, Eibach is informed and investigating. Eibach Germany apparently has no knowledge of the Eibach camber kit (googled) or Eibach spherical balljoint adjusters (WIM's advice). This, together with a product review remark on myIS forum that the adjusters' finish is not up to level with the usual Eibach product quality, makes me think it is a US product that is not developed/produced in Germany. Man I would like to have a WIM in the neighbourhood...

The springs have been checked and double-checked by the Eibach dealer and technical control center that delivers the road authorisation. All that part was ok, it's the geometry that wasn't ok. I don't mind it to be so low. Didn't measure it, they just drive it over a bar. The clearance was measured under the lowest point that should be just underneath the gearbox. The plastic engine cover was dismounted for this.

Oh, I thought Belgium was the most rulecrazy country in Europe? Yes have posted on EU forum. To lower a car in Belgium, you have several rules to respect: 1. GOCA document (GOCA is the Belgian automotive industry representative >> TüV is not valid here) 2. Installation document (confirmation of installation by official installer, if diy, you need to go & have it checked up by a pro) 3. Lowering inspection at the automotive inspection where they check: both documents, the numbers on the modified parts, the ride height (min 11cm with 2cm tolerance), the geometry. I passed everything except the geometry. Now I have to get the car within range on Wednesday. Their advice was: put it back on OEM springs. Haha. Very funny. The ride height seemed very low to me. They check it by driving the car over a 9cm high bar. I looked myself and was surprised that the Eibach kit lowered the car by this much. I had 1 to 1,5 cm clearance over the 9cm bar. That is very low. But hey, it's an Eibach Pro kit, installed by an official Eibach dealer. What do they want more? About the Gold membership, I have considered that, but I can't expect WIM to come over to Belgium to sort my geometry... Btw, wasn't the UK also part of Europe? Or is it dangerous to say that? :shutit:

Yep, these thoughts also crossed my mind. Another thought is whether the used specs were right for my car. Called dealer, who got me in contact with the aftersales manager. He sent me three scans from workshop documentation about different camber settings according to chassis numbers. My car is one of the earlier, so the settings specified in some pinned topic here apply. Next, I'll visit the Lexus dealer next Friday for a checkup. Then I can be sure that the operator knows what he or she is doing. As a last resort, maybe this could help me out. http://eibach.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.exe/04310...335276300019176 I had contact with the Eibach importer too. They knew about this problem on some Alfa's, but it's the first time he hears about it on a Lexus. Must say that he probably doesn't sell this Lexus kit so often either...

HELP! :( Recently I got my car lowered with an Eibach pro kit. Now I have a geometry problem... My street approval (or how is this called in EN) ends next Wednesday, must be sorted by then or... :megaangry: What happened? Lowering with Eibach Pro kit, installed from Belgian Eibach dealer, incl. a geometry checkup. Street approval (you call it MOT?) at the testcentre > NOK, front camber is out of allowed tolerances!! :duh: Camber : L -1°45' >< Lexus tolerance = -0°51'<x<+0°09' R -1°44' >< Lexus tolerance = -0°51'<x<+0°09' I though, ok, errors happen so I take it to the shop to get it within the fork. But my tyrecenter couldn't get it within the tolerances! The concentric axis on the suspension to adjust the camber is maxed out. He could adjust the camber to a maximum of -1°01'. So where should I get the remaining 10' from?? :hocus-pokus: Did anyone have this problem before? I already PM'd WIM with this, but I think this could be interesting for others out there facing the same problem now or in the future.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...E:B:WNA:US:1123 Anyone got (experience with) these? What should I think of ' genuine Italian leather'? Btw, I'm not so sure whether the standard gaiter on my IS sport is genuine leather, looks like a synthetic tissue to me. This might finish it up poperly. Go or no go?

Thanks for the tips, guys. Didn't think it would be that cheap! I most certainly will contact Lexus Birmingham, need a sports grille too and saw them on eBay. Hope the nets are any good at that price, though... Now this raises another question... what is a vertical luggage net? Any pics available to see what that might look like?