bazgtr

Just spent two days doing a Full service to my LS400 19993 model. List below on what I changed. Timing belt, Drive belt, Plugs, Leads, Themostat, Distributors, Rotor arms, Fuel filter, oil filter, Pulleys(3), Water pump, Air filter & PCV valve. One problem not listed was the power steering leak. Found out that the O-ring in the end of the valve on the pump it'self(Circ clip side) was knacked. Changed o-ring for a new one, Job done. I did read the lexs manuals and they state that you have to get a new valve, Why I don't know. The one in it was fine enough and the leak was just caused by the O-Ring having a square edge look to it and not nice curved look. I wonder how many people have had new pumps for this little fault. The whole process took 18 hours from Sat morning to Sunday evening. Car fired up first time and purred like a kitten. :winky: Had an air lock and needed some power steering fluid, Easy fix. On the test drive I did notice that people have vibration around 50mph(Me too) and people suggest it's the transmisson fliud or engine or gearbox mounts need changing. Well let just say that I changed both of these and still had the vibration. But after I changed the plugs and leads I found the number seven plug and lead were shot. So carried out the service and when I went for a 50mph run, There was no vibration through the gears and no missing at idle or at any speeds. She was as smooth as silk on the road speeding up or slowing down. Well happy. In my opinon try changing the rotor arms, distubutors, leads and plugs if you are getting vibration. To confirm this idle and put your hand on the gear stick, If there's any little crumble or knock carry out these first before looking at the transmission etc. I did these first by mistake myself. Hope this helps. Any questions then feel free to ask.

No offfence, But what does this reply have to do with the thread/problem that has been bug out of the woodwork??? Most LS400 owners know how to fix the dash not lighting up by changing the caps. Please stick to what you know the GS300 threads. If you have a panel for sale then feel free to post it up in the parts for sale section.

Get the car in the air and ask a garage to check around the front suspension and lnks. They shouldn't charge you for this and may show you the problem. The other thing is to jack the front wheels up in turn and try and wiggle the wheel holding your hands at 12 & 6 o'clock on it for movement. Any movement and you've got a problem. Just keep wiggling until you can see where the movement is. Listern for noises when doing this aswell.

SUCESS, FINALLY GOT WORKING, But no sure how I did or what happened. I'll just say hwat I did. 1) Checked the speaker on another system, Working fine, 2) Reconnected the speaker to the car, Still no sound. 3) Run a lead form the speaker to the amp, No sound, But amp sparking(Got current). Prevoiusly I checked the fuses when my battery was disconected. All OK. Today Speaker not working, So cheked the fuses while the battery was on. Pulled out the Radio one fuse (Under steering wheel) first to check. Cleaned up the fuse and reconnected. Then I pulled out the Radio two(Under Bonnet) checked and reconnected. I made sure that the fuses where level going in and right in. Went back in car turned on radio, Tuned in a station and to my delight the sub wooofer was going bomb bomb again. GREAT :winky: I don't know why it should start working again, Prehaps they may be chip that gets confused in the radio or amp unit, That needs to be reset in order to the radio while battery still connected for other unit to reconnect, much like rebooting a computer when it gets confused sometimes. Anyway I'm happy it's working again, So no need to splash out on a new amp yet. P.S. Steve thank for the info. I didn't need it, As didn't get that far into the problem(Started working). But maybe of use for someelse who needs it. Thanks.

I know there is 12volt feed as mention at start is that I have spark off speaker when touching unit. I will try running different wires to the speaker from them to get sound. Can you tell me what pin or pins has the input sound from the headunit?? I can try and pick up the feed going in to the amp and by passs the amp to see if I can get sound off the speaker it in any form. Thanks Baz.

It's in the boot. 1993 model ls.

I've put up a new thread to find a solution. Does your rear sub woofer work on it's own by testing it on another car? As sonn as I know it's the amp my cusion can fix them, But I need to find the parts needed for the board from maplan before travelling 30 miles for him to do it. That's if it is the amp. I think I'll post it to him to check it out.

Pioneer standard UK spec car.

I can't get sound out of my rear parcel shelf woofer-bass speaker. I taken out the speaker and tried it on another car and works fine. All my interior door speakers work fine, Including all the fade,balance controls, etc. I run a wire form the rear speaker and touched the amp to test. Had a spark to show it's alive and can get some static sound through the wires out of it. So is there anybody out there who have had this problem and know how you fixed it. A) Was it a problem with the amp outputs, If so what did you replace. Which cap etc. Any Pictures? B) Was there a problem with the head unit output? C) Something else I've missed.

Two master keys(Cut for my car already) and chip where £160 from Lexus. All woked and installed in about an hour. Would do it faster next time, Now I now what to do. Does your rear parcel shelf speaker work?? My speaker works, But get no sound from it. I've tested the speaker on it's own and works fine. So I'm assuming it's the amp maybe. If you're removing your amp to replace with after market system, Then can I have frirst option to test on my car to see if this is my problem.

Item arrived today and in answer to your question, The timing belt does have the three marks to allow alignment. Downside was that I was hit with import duty of £25 from Parcelforce(Bugger).

It's in the boot on the upper left hand side, By the hinge for the boot. You must undo the four top screw and three bottom to remove the carpet. You'll see it sitting on the left with phillips written on it. The door switch ecu & chip is to the left of that about three inches away if you ever need to do a chip change for new master keys. I know this, As just got new keys and chip put in this morning and can now open the doors by remote(Cool).

Item number: 250101078681 US EBAY SELLER Time_and_money First send them an email to check if they will send to the UK. the ad I saw stated they did, But this ad states they don't. Double check and state you are willing to pay the extra postage. If that fails, Ask them to they allow collection for it. If so use either fedex or ups to collect from them. Still cheaper than UK that way.

I just bought the rubber from Lexus dealer for around £6.50 with the Vat, Also bought two new keys and chip for my car which they did mention If my car has has new lock fitted I'm buggered and item are nonrefunable(£163) This might turn out to be the dearest drivers wiper change ever. £170 for 20 inches of rubber, Then again that's about the price of such an item a woman might pay for 20inches of rubber(hehe).

The water pump comes with the new gaskets inside. Being a Nissan specialist, I use Nissan sealent on jobs like this(Deep red Colour). Lexus/Toyota use the pink looking sealent. Just found a US seller selling Spark plugs, rotor arms, distributor caps and spark leads(All Bosch make) for £63 + postage. Leads alone in this country is that price(Bugger). Timing belt on route and will inform you when arrives about the marks.

Everybody does that mistake first time with the drivers side. Just do Number 5 on the list below. Reverse to put new one on.

In process of going to do a full service & Timing belt to my 1993 MKII LS400. Here is the list of parts that I bought to carry it out. Please note that you may find some parts cheaper elsewhere, But I wanted the parts from under the same roof unless otherwise stated. All the parts are brand new. SERVICE PARTS...............MAKER of PART/Maker part number).......SUPPLIER....................COST £££ A) OIL FILTER...................Blue Print...............................................F.M.P Swansea....................6.42 B) AIR FILTER...................Blue Print(ADT32232)..........................F.M.P Swansea...................16.17 C) IGNiTION LEADS...........Commerical Ignition(XC630)................F.M.P Swansea...................65.63 D) DRIVE BELT..................Gates Europe(6PK2245).......................F.M.P Swansea..................12.29 E) FUEL FILTER..................Blue Print...............................................F.M.P Swansea..................22.16 F) SPARK PLUGS(8)............NGK(BKR5EP-11)...................................F.M.P Swansea..................44.32 G) WATER PUMP................Quinton Hazel Automotive(QCP3353)....F.M.P Swansea...................39.35 H) THERMOSTAT................Quinton Hazel Automotive(QTH369)......F.M.P Swansea...................11.19 The F.M.P price was at trade price which came to 217.53 & VAT(38.07) = Total 255.60. There are various aftermarket motor factor suppliers around the country like F.M.P. Prices may vary a little. I) PCV Valve............................Bosch......................US EBAY Seller ID Japgraveyard...........3.50+P&P. J) IGNITION SET( R.A & DIS)....Bosch......................US EBAY Seller ID Japgraveyard..........23.90+P&P. K) TIMING BELT KIT.................PCI in USA...............US EBAY Seller ID theimportexperts.....70.07 with P&P. Body upgrade. L) Clear front lower indicators.........US Ebay seller discountpartsonline...........31.95 with postage to UK. M) Clear little side indicators...........Details to follow. I hope this is a useful guide if you're planning to do it yourself. P.S. Please don't ask why I have a smiley on the B as I'm unable to remove(tried three times).

Had this problem at 48mph to 50mph. When travelling at that speed the car would judder a bit. Have changed the trans fluid and filter and find it's a lot smoother around that speed than before. 80% better. Changes through with no judder or going down through it. The other 20% I can feel I think is something I read over on a US site and that the early LS400(90-94) have a little judder at that speed. They mention that around 50mph is the change over point of the auto box and can't decide if you're going to go faster(Shift up) or slower(Shift down), So gets in two minds switching from the two gears. Once you go faster or slower then it's happy at that speed. You can make it worst by just resting your foot on the pedal lightly at 49MPH. M<ove the pedal either way and the judder goes. Would like your feedback on the 50mph judder. Do you agree or not about the changing point or is there anything else we might be missing. Trans & engine mounts may also be worth changing