PJ S

Check this thread out first - http://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-third-generation/587356-my-conversion-from-gen4-to-gen5-nav-and-mp3-player.html

Cheers guys. Not sure if this advice is in the archives, but if not, then it's here now for future owners/buyers to benefit from.

It's okay, the guys on clublexus have said it needs reset from having it's battery disconnected or drained. It should return to one-touch and separate controls again, once the process has been done. Thanks for offering some help.

Didn't mean the switches - the roof itself, so you had an audible indication it was shut completely. As it was, it didn't give any feedback that it was shut, before it proceeded to open the other way.

Went to look at a GS300, and came away a bit perplexed at the sunroof controls. Up obviously opened it upwards, but as it wasn't a one-touch operation, pressing down also retracted it. There didn't seem to be a defining click/clunk that gave an indication it was okay to stop pressing the button. The same thing worked in reverse - open retracted it, but close pressed too long, opened it the other way again. Is this really normal behaviour or should the two sets of buttons operate completely independently? On the basis of this being how Lexus have "engineered" the operation of the sunroof, I'd be feckin' scared witless of using the thing, for fear of leaving it not fully closed, and rainwater getting in round the seal. Mind you, if the drains are working fine, there'd be no water in the car itself, but even so! Pity the SE-L came with a sunroof as standard, as aside from losing headroom, there's this to be slightly concerned with as well. Anybody want to calm my fears?

Forget Parkers - no-one uses that in the trade when PX/buying cars, it's CAPS and Glass'.

Not sure if the hybrid is any more expensive due to the extra system fitted, but you're looking at £500 ish (iirc) inc spark plugs. Brake fluid, oil and oil filter, cabin filter all replaced, inverter coolant inspected, along with a host of other items.

I'd just tell both wives mentioned here to buy their own dark coloured cars. Maybe a case of telling them both they need to change their hair colour to one you prefer, would get the message through. If one or both are contributing to the payments or paid half if non-financed, then fair enough - otherwise, point out the waste of money it'd be and would they be prepared to wash it as it'll require more attention to keep it looking clean. And no, the hand-wash places in disused petrol stations, etc aren't getting their hands on it, as it'll look dreadful in sunlight with all the swirl marks. Bit a creative thinking chaps, and you'll have them backtracking on the idea of changing what isn't broken.

http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html Obvious answer is obvious - don't go for 20" rims! If you want to play, you've got to pay, as the saying goes. The whole point of going low sidewall is to improve corner handling, but with the state of our roads nationwide, I'd not be venturing beyond 19" - not to mention tyre prices jump quite a bit after that. Bottom line, you can't have your cake and eat it - that's the trade-off for having more alloy than rubber on display. With the 450h having AVS suspension, then you might find you'll need to have it in comfort mode more often than standard or sport, to compensate for the loss of cushioning the extra rubber currently provides.

Grinding/squeaking noise from where? The foot operated parking brake or the back of the car? If the former, then a bit of grease should be all that's needed. Assuming you're referring to the rear end of the car, then sounds like it could be the known issue of brake caliper binding. Chances are the dealership will want to replace, but it may just need a bit of hi-temp grease, if the calipers or piston seals aren't worth their weight in scrap. That's presuming there's no separate parking brake caliper and pad - which if there is, could/should be cheaper to replace, if need be.

Give Lexus CS the VIN/Reg info, they'd be able to confirm its originating dealership, servicing, recall work. At a guess, if it was LFS "owned", then it is a car one user liked and didn't want to change out from, or it was a pool car for the whole team to utilise as and when. I'd be more concerned with the service history rather than how many people may've driven it, and if you know anyone in the body trade, take them along with you to assess it for more than a few stonechips repaired.

I've read a few members of clublexus comlpain about rattles/creaks on the 3rd Gen models, unlike their previous one(s). A trip to the dealer often got it sorted, although that may've been whilst under warranty with them.

I would be surprised if it didn't - my '03 Accord did, and it was a considerably cheaper car. You'd know if they are HIDs - the light is whiter, and you'd see a stark difference between them and the inner halogen-based lights.

http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=76898

I know it's not directly comparable, but I put the Hankook S1 evo (not the new evo2) on the front of the Accord, replacing a very bald pair of (still working!) Toyo T1-Rs. As well as having the rear Falken FK452s take plenty of stick at the driving end, I can honestly say I'm impressed and would happily slap them on all round. All 3 models would be welcome on any end of the Honda, and when I eventually find my 300 SE-L, I imagine I'll continue to court these brands' offerings. Maybe heading over to http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk will give you some food for thought on the ones we've both mentioned.

Might be worth reading clublexus forum - being US they have had the 3.5 V6 engine in both the 350 and 450h models. I thought the valve spring was only for 06-07 cars, not as new as 09. I recall there being reduced mpg after the job was carried out, but can't remember the exact difference. Again, some may've had theirs re-inspected by another dealership, and remedied since not all dealers had techs with the requisite training completed, so customers were turned away by them. As much as the above reply sounds plausible, I don't think there's any intrinsic benefit for the network of dealer techs to back each other up - so a few calls to other dealerships near and far, might yield a better response, and resolution to the problem. Give it a try - you've nothing to lose other than a bit of time and pocket change, yet everything to gain.

Pre-emptive collision safety system.

Given the info, I'd say your best solution is change the GS for something more suitable for her needs - a Honda Jazz petrol with its light clutch pedal and frugality, and ease of entry/exit would make more sense than LPG'ing the GS and waiting to break even on the cost (18K miles, give or take). Cheaper on insurance too, possibly, and easier to park.

Well luckily I have a Lexus warranty as they are using semi at my next service. Last time it cost me an extra 40 quid for mobil 1. This time they can do what they recommend (semi)... only paying 105 for the interim 10k service. Bear in mind Mobil 1 oil isn't the same all over the planet, it can and does vary depending on country it's distributed in.Equally, oil manufacturers can legally call an oil synthetic when it's hydrocracked mineral oil.A true proper synthetic oil is just that, with the best ones being Ester based or POA.So be careful about bandying the word "synthetic" about, since it can mean quite different things.

Lots of turbo cars use and are recommended to use, 50 grade oil - namely high HP ones like Nissan Skylines, Mitsubishi Evos, and Subaru STis. M Series BMs are another, but that's due to an engine design flaw which the thicker 50 grade oil "cures".Thicker oil means higher threshold at high temperature to shearing, preventing metal-metal contact.And with winter like we've seen these past couple of years, either side of Christmas, owners in some parts of the country would be well to change to 0w-20/30.Checking the pour point of the oil thinking of being used, would be useful as that'll give an indication of how thick it becomes when temps plummet to almost -20ºC.You being from Bulgaria, should know only too well what winter weather is like, as I remember on a school Xmas skiing holiday, when I was 14 or 15, I think. As for your chosen oil - Motul is definitely the one I'd choose too, since I've used Castrol Edge, Liqui Moly, and 2 Motuls now, in the Honda Accord.As the 220d has a DPF fitted, then Low SAPS is the best option, but unfortunately the HTHS (shear) number isn't as good as the Ester-based Maxx - but with a diesel engine, there's maybe no real need for high HTHS numbers due to the pistons moving slower than in high revving petrol ones, like the Honda.

To qualify Matt's statement a bit more, you can wet sand any paint - singlestage and clearcoated - provided there is sufficient depth to do so. By that I mean, in clearcoated paints, the orange peel is in the clear lacquer, not the paint layer, and so long as you leave at the very least 30µm of the clearcoat after polishing back up, the paint layer beneath will still have adequate protection from the elements, and the UV radiation of the sun. Below that, and you start getting into problems with pigment fading (as happens with the Milano Red "EP3" Civic Type R's, even with sufficient clearcoat), and clearcoat failure - something Audi knows a fair about. So, it may not be totally possible to remove all the orange peel, but you can certainly reduce its effects dramatically, and not compromise the paintwork in the process. Classic case in point - http://www.pistonhea...sp?h=0&t=685712

Definitely made up - many blacks have a clearcoat, but generally only if metallic or pearlescent. You're thinking of Lexus solid black, which like the red, is singlestage paint - the UV protection is in along with the pigment, whereas metallics and pearls are a paint layer over which the protective clearcoat sits.

Nope, orange peel on any colour plays havoc with the reflection, but certainly darker colours tend to have a greater wow-factor.

If you're serious, then you need to speak to KDS Keltec in Gillingham. Easy enough to find website, and threads on DW/Pistonheads of some of the work he has done.

I don't know what GC smells like - been years since I last had some in my hands. That even assumes its fragrance is a standard one, or unique to that product alone.