ahmed24

Thanks. Sure I’ll share the details of the card that works later on in the week as I’m currently out of town.

I got it done at a local locksmith who has the tool to erase Toyota smart keys. In the past I used a chap who I posted it to and he posted it back for similar price plus postage. You will find some locksmiths have the hardware to erase these keys. Techstream can’t be used for it. Hence why if you take a used key to Toyota or Lexus they will just tell you it’s. It possible to programme a used key.

I'm not sure about changing the settings for the OEM camera on the unit but you can definately 100% make changes to the trajectory lines if you are using an aftermarket camera. The canbus software has also receive a new update and now the front parking sensor graphic is a lot better. It's a small graphic which floats on top and has a transparency so doesn't block your main content underneath fully. So you can still see the content at the back. Previously and on the OEM park assist, if the front sensors go off then the entire screen goes black with the graphic. So the latest canbus update has made this a whole lot better. Much better

🙂 Thank you Normski, glad to see you are still active here 🙂 Thanks Vladimir 🙂. These key cards been around since the 2005/2006 LS I believe. And there is only one particular one that works on the 2IS and the it has to be a very specific one. I'll try and dig up the info on the exact details and post it up. I got it on eBay, but there are lots on eBay some even falsely claiming it's compatible but i've done some extensive testing and come to conclusion that only one specific card actually works on the 2IS including the Isf.

I've been wanting to get one of the Lexus credit card style smart key cards for my 2006 IS250 for some time. Eventually got it done few months ago and thought i'd share the results. This mod is very popular in the american forums. But unfortunately as Europe uses a different frequency we cannot go based on the findings from the american IS owners who have successfully done this mod. I managed to get hold a second-hand key card for £35 and spent £10 getting it blanked out. I was then able to successfully programme it to my car using Techstream (Picture below). The card was in bad cosmetic condition, so I refinished it and upgraded the battery cover to the F version. Below are some pictures of the process and a few video demos. This key card works on all 2IS including the ISF.

@Neurus as @Mr Vlad has correctly said, the buttons they are referring to is the soft buttons on the headunit itself (next to the reset and mic holes) These get hidden underneath the frame. One thing i did do is remove the LED behind them completely as I found they tend to bleed the backlight through the frame. Easy option would be to put tape on top. I also completely desoldered the internal mic which is on the same board. So basically just kept on the reset pin. The reason I removed the internal mic is that I found by keeping internal mic and connecting an external mic, the volume level of the external mic seems to suffer because the headunits dont tend to completely turn off the internal mic. So it almost acts like you've got a doubler with two mics sharing one channel. This causes mic volume to be considerably lower. This isn't just a Teyes thing, i've seen this across a variety of units. In regards to the climate button mods, i dont have pictures sorry and cant remember from the top of my head, it's just something I did there and there. It involved moving 4 smd resistors around

No problem at all. I will do a proper detailed write-up at some point. This particular Model A installation I will be removing to paint the fascia and upgrade LED's and make the climate button tweak in Decemeber. At that point I may try and do a little video installation guide. Another very important thing to check is the fascia frame itself. The fascia frame is made by another factory and usually bundled into the same pacakge. The fascia frame comes with a metal plate to attach it to the main unit. This plate is extremely sharp and because of poor packaging can often scratch the fascia during transit. Check your fascia carefully and if it's badly scratched, open a dispute with AliBaba or Express whereever you bought it from. This Model A i installed had come with quite a few scratches but the owner got £85 refunded for the scratches to cover cost of new frame. Also, test all the buttons make sure the buttons press properly. On this second installation the quality control was bad because they put short screws on the PCB and the PCB board wasn't secure so the buttons weren't pressing properly. Also, looking at your profile it appears you have a 2007 so that willl be a Model B like mine. Installation on that is much simpler than Model A. Oh and finally, the Teyes will come with about 6 or 7 missing screws because the amount they give isn't enough to mount the screen to the fascia as well as the metal frame. So you will need to get hold of some matching tiny screws. I have a bag full for this kind of stuff like the pic below:

So an update on the Teyes CC3. I've now successfully installed a Model A version of the CC3 too for someone else. Basically the 2005-2012 IS comes with two variant of OEM navigation screens. 2005 to 2009 you have the DVD based system and late 2009 onwards you have the hard drive based system. Teyes refers to these as Model A and Model B as pictured below: My car is a model B and the installation on Model B is a hell of a lot simpler. However, the fascia is made to fit the Model A lower unit and upper vent. So if anyone installing it on Model B, you need to modify some of the tabs on the lower CD changer. But on the Model A this fits perfectly. I've also changed my upper vent with the newer model A version so fits very well. I just did a Model A installation for someone else over the weekend and thought i'd mention some very important factors along with photos. Like I mentioned before, I will do a full review on this and do a write-up at some point. So with the late 2009 onwards models (Model A), there are much less connectors. However, it appears most of the processing on this model happens from the OEM top screen unit. without the top unit you are not able to read canbus data and it doesn't work properly. So it appears for the Model A system you have to keep your original upper unit too as well as the lower unit. However, ofcourse the screen and the fascia needs to be completely dismantled. Leaving behind only the processing unit of the top unit. This is what I did. I managed to install the unit nicely and mount it to original frame. I had to modify the teyes metal frame slightly to make it work. Pictures below. I've also attached a quick video demo showing the Siri button mapped to the voice button. And finally, the reverse camera. If you want to use OEM you have to splice or de-pin the connector pins and wire it that way. I went for installing the camera that came with the Teyes as it's much better quality anway.

Correction, I've figured out a way to do the Siri and android auto voice button mapping without having to jailbreak the MCU or the OS. So I should be returning to the stock Teyes firmware now 🙂

I have the wald style spoiler with the SG struts and springs. Works perfectly

I haven't had a chance to make my review video yet. Hopefully will do so in the coming weeks. A few more developments on my Teyes CC3 setup. Out of the box a lot of these units whether it's Teyes, XTRONS or anything else will all claim that the steering wheel buttons are programmable. They will show you screenshots of the app that lets you program this. This is all generic marketing jargon. All these units have two pins on the back of the head unit know as Key1 and Key2, if the steering wheel buttons are wired to these pins then yes you can customise what you want the buttons to do. However, with the IS headunits, these manufactures pre-wire the steering buttons straight into the canbus decoder. As a result the functionality of the steering wheel buttons are all pre-programmed and cannot be adjusted. Out of the box this isn't really a problem because all the steering wheel buttons are pre-programmed to work as they should with a bit of settings tweaks. However, what I really wanted to do is have the voice button on the steering wheel map to Siri on CarPlay or Google Assistant on AndroidAuto. Unfortunately, the default Teyes steering programming app doesn't let you progamme that function because they want you to use the Teyes Voice app. Which i find to be rubbish. So what I ended up doing is loaded a jailbreak MCU and OS made by a Russian Teyes engineer. This allows me to use the Joying steering control app and customise my voice button to Siri and Google. In order for this to work, I had to re-pin a wire to the Teyes connector. Below is a video example of the button in action now. And also a video showing you my custom boot animation that I created.

message me later this week I'll be back in town and I'll send you details of where I got it from and I didn't have any import fees and was express delivery with FedEx came within 7 days. Attached are some screenshots of the parking sensor display. The rear ones is an illustration that floats on top of the reverse image

Ok so further to my last answer. It appears I was mistaken. Just discovered i am able to turn on the parking sensor display. It's an option that's disabled in the menu. I enabled it and now I get a floating illustration showing the corners that are close.

Yes the BSM is practically on all the time but the button is just there as that extra OEM touch just like many car features to be able to have the ability to turn it off like the parking sensors etc. It's not needed but just there for the OEM look

Thank you. Yes the LED upgrade has completely transformed the interior. I love the new interior colour at night It's not something i've looked into, I'd have to look into it to see how easy or difficult it is. from top of my head I would think you would need the radar sensor at the front, new PCS emblem with grille to allow for PCS emblem as the PCS emblem is bigger. And also potentially the ECU that controls the Cruise control and not to mention the steering switchpad that has the adaptive cruise button.

Yes they illuminate when you approach the car as well as when you unlock it

I just recently completed making the external door handles LED lit and thought i'd share on here. It's linked to the puddle lights but stays on for a further 35 seconds or so after the puddle lights go out because i've linked it to my unlock/approach light mod. Below are some pics of the project and a photo of how it looks on the car at night. This mod was super cheap only a few pounds in materials but most of the work is in the labour which is time consuming.

By parking sensor functionality, if you are referring to the graphical sonar illustration that shows on the factory screen then no you lose that display completely on the Teyes and any other unit including the XTRON. It's not a big loss as the icon showing which corner is close displays on the instrument cluster anyway and beeps. At some point if Teyes don't make an add-on app to add the display, I may make my own android app to display this floating illustration. In terms of the factory functionalities, the CD player still works but it needs to be accessed via the vehicle settings app. I'm not sure if factory CD player will still play DVD movies through this but will try it one of these days just for the sake of trying it. I've attached a few new photos (some showing the factory settings app). You can also access the climate control app through the vehicle settings app. Although I never use the climate app because i make all my climate changes through the buttons. When I change climate settings, i get a floating widget that shows the climate information at the bottom of the screen, this can be seen in my climate video demo on my previous post. If i'm not mistaken the XTRON puts the entire climate app on top.

This is a mod I did a few months ago but never got round to posting. The LC and RC/f comes with Lexus's new completely frameless rearview mirror. They look really cool and I was on the lookout for one. Brand new, these mirrors are a few hundred pounds. To get them second-hand, it will need to come from a Toyota Mirai, Lexus LC or Lexus RC as these are the only 3 cars that this mirror comes on. So to find a Lexus LC or Toyota Mirai second hand part will be near impossible. Luckily I managed to find one from a Rcf and got it for an absolute steal for £31 including free next day DPD delivery. Below are some pictures of the project and a video at the end. It's quite difficult to take pictures of a mirror so the video probably shows it better. I had to purchase a trim cover for the connector from a Lexus LC which I then had to modify to make it fit. The mirror is not directly plug & play but the wiring is the same so all I needed to do was de-pin the OEM connector from my original mirror and transfer it over. There is a +12v ignition, ground and the antiglare EC+ and EC- connections.

It operates on the same principle as the OEM systems. There are two microwave radar sensors which are positioned on the body of the car (behind the rear bumper). As pictured in the last picture before the video, I placed it below the parking sensor so that there is no interference from the parking sensor. The radar sensors have to be mounted in a 20 degree angle in order to have the correct operational zone. Thank you 🙂 The sensor information i've written above this.

I'm not as active on here as I was and i'd like to be due to the time-consuming nature of posting to multiple platforms. Nevertheless, I do try and occasionally post some of my mods on here. I've done quite a few since my last post and will try and update on here soon. Even my blog is a little behind which I need to catch-up on. My most up-to-date posts are on my Instagram page. Here is a post showing my latest blind spot monitoring system that I have installed on my 2006 IS250. The actual blind spot detection system is a universal system that comes with two stick-on lights that are designed to go on the A-pillar. But I was only interested in doing this mod after I found aftermarket mirrors with antiglare coating that had the BSM icon and LED on the mirror itself. As I needed a replacement glass mirror for one of my mirrors I thought i'd go down this route and install this to make it look and operate like OEM. I purchased a BSM button from AliExpress for £2 and had to change the backlight to match the rest of my interior. Below are some pictures and a video which shows the project and some working demo video clips at the end.

Will do, I'm currently thoroughly putting it through its paces with long drives and the extreme heat we've had. There have been a few small glitches that I've liased with Teyes engineer with and they released a new system and firmware upgrade which seems to have solved it.

Well I'm very confident with electonics. Plus it's not really ripping the satnav out itself, it's just the PCB board on the frame that controls the climate. Plus the frames can be purchased separately even in the even something goes wrong. I've gone and always go for the range topping spec. On some aftermarket brands it goes upto 8GB ram version but the Teyes CC3 goes to 6GB RAM and 128GB storage with a Quad-Core processor and DSP. The lower spec units will not have wireless CarPlay and AndroidAuto on them. I can confirm that the 6GB version has wireless AndroidAuto and wireless Apple CarPlay. What I like about it he Teyes compared to some of the other cheaper Chinese replicas is that the software on the Teyes is so much better. The entire UI including settings and all hidden menus have all been branded and customised to the Teyes theme. I've installed a good number of replica Chinese units for many different Lexus and non Lexus models and what I found in those was that the software and UI is very inconsistent.

I already had factory ML satnav and the full package too but was getting bored of the screen and camera quality and most importantly the resistive touch. Once you start using apple CarPlay or AndroidAuto, it's hard to live without it 🙂

The screen is a whole lot bigger than OEM screen. OEM screen is 7inch, this is just over 9inches. They've managed to fit a big screen in by reducing all the button sizes which look way better in my opinion. Now that I look at the OEM one the buttons look so bulky. I have been really busy lately and haven't 100% finished up my installation. Once I do, I will create a dedicate thread on the Teyes CC3. Below are some pics of how it looks. I am upgrading to the facelift airvent too. I chose the 9inch unit mainly because I wasn't keen on the aftermarket look of the 10inch frame. The 9inch frame maintains that OEM look. Plus speaking to Teyes engineer one WhatsApp, he said that the 10inch frame version is only compatible with cars with no factory navigation. The steering wheel buttons work perfectly. As for microphone, you can de-pin and use OEM microphone but since I previously had a grom unit installed and I had installed aftermarket mic in the OEM location behind the dome light, i just kept that. In regards to reverse camera, the 2006 to 2009 i believe you need to de-pin the wire to get it hooked up but 2010 onwards it's just a matter of connecting a connector if you want the factory camera. Even if camera worked, I wasn't planning to keep OEM camera as the quality was something i always hated. So i've installed a AHD 1080p camera. Picture attached below. Another thing, I completely dismantled the PCB's from the fascia and upgraded all the LED's to white and blue to match my previous setup. I also hydrodipped the frame to match my previous setup. One thing to note is that the frame itself is made by one company and used by Teyes and many of the other head units. The Passener and Driver temperature buttons are in the LHD orientation. I spoke to the manufacturer of the frame itself regarding whether it was possible to get RHD version and they said it's not possible due to it being mass produced and they don't have enough sales in RHD market. At first I thought I can live with it but then it started annoying me because once you set steering location as Right in the head unit settings then it gets even more annoying because you press the temperature button on the left for driver but the display changes on the right. So in other words the software shows the correct way round but the button is wrong way round and it messes with your head lol. So I set out to fix this. I reverse engineered the PCB board and figured just like how lexus do most other things, the temperature controls are based on resistance values measured by the button presses. So I was able to swap around 2 pairs (4 total) SMD resistors and the problem was fixed. Now I have the temperature buttons working correct way round. I will be sticking the temperature decals on soon. I've also recorded a quick video demo showing the climate controls working right way round. Here is the vide demo: