ahmed24

Not sure if forum rules allow links to the popular auction site. Item number on that popular auction site UK is 384916363410

The lower control arm bushings on the 2IS are quite prone to splitting. It's quite a common issue. I've been reading about how the RCF/GSF ones are way better and they are compatible with the 2IS including the ISF. So I bought two sets (one for myself and another IS250 owner) directly from Japan. Here in the UK from LPD the pair of bushings cost just over £200. I got them for £80 a pair including shipping and import taxes from Japan. So quite a bargain. Many owners seem to opt to go for the Figs or RR Racing LCA bushings which are supposed to be a lot better performance bushings made from PP. However, I didn't want to go down the route of installing PP bushings as they need to be maintained by greasing them at certain intervals. So I chose a cheaper but OEM performance upgrade 🙂 The installation is very simple. A lot of people tend to take the wheel off for better access. I personally did not, I just raised the car on low profile ramps and there was plenty of clearance to swap it out. Saving the time of removing the wheel 🙂 It took about 10-15minutes per side. Below are some pics of the installation. As for the results. It's very noticable. There is a lot less body roll. A very well spent £80 I would say.

And here are a few pics of the installation I did for someone else on a 2012 IS250 Model A.

Having installed my Teyes CC3 Android Head Unit about 9 months ago, I thought i'd create a dedicated thread on the Teyes CC3. I've been posting and replying to questions about it on a another thread created by @McShmoopy that can be found here: I've installed this on my own 2006 IS250 with factory nav and ML. Teyes call this option the Model B. I've also installed it for a few people on the late models that have USB music playing options from the factory. Teyes calls this the Model A. Just to clarify, the Head Units themselves are the same between Model A and B. The difference is that they supply a different wiring loom/harness as the two models of cars have completely different wiring layout. After 9 months of use, my personal opinion on this is that it's a fantastic kit. There are loads of other unbranded chinese units you can get but none of them compare to the build quality of this. I've installed a few unbranded ones. Most importantly the UI on the other chinese ones are in my opinion utterly rubbish. They give you a mediocre launcher UI and everything else they don't touch and so the user experience is somewhat spoilt with the constant change of UI and themes. Teyes on the other hand have completely created an entire OS skin with their theme. So you won't find any section without the Teyes UI theme. Which I think is fantastic. And finally, I've installed a good few unbranded chinese units on many different car models over the years and once you install it, it's very rare that you will get full software updates with useful new features. Having owned Teyes for 9 months. I've recieved 3 updates with nice new features. I think a lot of the chinese unbranded stuff you have to just buy and leave it as it is without any hope for support in the future. Below i've attached some photos of the installation and finished product on my 2006 IS250. A few things worth mentioning if anyone planning to get this system The Model B installation is a lot simpler. Just remove old and install new. The Model A is a lot more challening as it involves dismantling your original upper screen and just keeping the processing unit. This unit has to be kept behind the screen while installing this new head unit. So the room behind is a bit of a challenge. But if you do it right, there is plenty of space. On the Model B the reverse cam is supposed to be plug and play just requiring the setting to be turned on. But on model A, if you want to use OEM reverse camera, you have to locate the camera wires and de-pin and wire it to the Teyes. I personally wasn't bothered about the OEM reverse camera because I wanted to upgrade to AHD reverse camera as I found the OEM one to be poor quality. The frame itself is not made by Teyes, they are made by companies that specialise in this and supply to other Head Unit manufacturers too. And they only have LHD versions of this frame. Meaning the Drivers and Passenger temperature controls are wrong way round. I've managed to fix this by reverse engineering the PCB and swapping out some resistos to flip it around. If anyone thinking to buy this, please make sure the seller that you buy from packages the metal frame properly and bubble wraps the actual frame with lots of layers to keep the metal seperate from the plastic frame. The amount of people i've seen receive this with the metal frame scratching the hell out of the frame is shocking. Just poor packaging. Since I mentioned it to people, it appears they take extra care. I've also done a few mods and tweaks on the unit, which are as follows: Carbon hydrodipped the frame to match my OEM unit that I had previously done. Upgraded backlight LED's to white to match my OEM unit that I had previously done. Wired the Steering wheel voice button to activate Siri (CarPlay) or Google Assistant (AndroidAuto) - Video demo can be found here: I customised the boot animation with my own custom made one. Video demo here: A video demo of my LHD to RHD temperature buttons can be found here: Below are some photos. New Teyes (Top) vs Old OEM (Bottom)

I am usin the Teyes supplied GPS antenna. The radio I am using factory antenna. On the Model A if you want to use factory radio, you need to get a convertor because on Model A the Lexus radio antenna connector is different.

No the climate app is inside the vehicle settings app. So to open it as a shortcut you'd have to find out what the app intent shortcut is then create a custom rule. Too much hassle for an app I never open. Everything you can do in that app is controlable through the physical buttons on the frame so I have no idea why someone would want to use the climate app. I understand the occasional need to just do specific things but everything is controllable from the buttons. I have no idea how it will do in -40C temperatures. We dont get anywhere near that here. lowest i've ever seen here in London was minus 7 or 8. You would have to look on their website to see if they have any sales Well you dont need a screen protector. But some people choose to add a antiglare protector because the screen is very shiny and if the sun shines on it, it can have a lot of glare

Regardless of 9” or 10”, the can protocol app isn’t actually made by Teyes it’s a third party tool used across many different android head units. Just like the frames and harnesses are also not specifically made by Teyes. All these android head unit companies depend on other companies to make universal harnesses and frames and integration apps for set size head units. That’s why there are so many Chinese versions. Most of them I’ve found to be very poor build quality. Because the canbus apps are essentially the same, it will be same across both 9 and 10inch versions. Answering you question, yes there is a independent app for climate. You have to go to an app called vehicle settings then inside that you will see a section called air conditioning. Below are pics taken of this

Original USB will not work. You now have an aftermarket unit so the USB function has to be handled by the Teyes. I converted that armrest USB to connect to the Teyes. You can find universal USB or you can buy a convertor like this: https://incartec.co.uk/product/24-654_toyota which you can then plug the armrest USB to the Teyes In regards to the sound, it has nothing to do the the canbus. If the volume is low, are you sure the main volume knob on the lower CD changer is set high? This is known as the master system volume. You need to set this to a high level and then adust the volume using the steering wheel control. Don't adust using the knob on the CD changer. Keep that on a decent high level. If that does not help. There are multiple things to try: first check the power conditioning setting using this guide: https://teyes.uk/pages/power-conditioning?shpxid=c95b4902-2935-4a29-883c-d4e817869990 Then check the following 3 different settings (this is in another language, but gives you an idea exactly where to find the setting) The factory password is: 168

I cannot remember from the top of my head. There is a sound DSP setting app which lets you do all the adjustments. There is also the AMP power setting. There are quite a lot of settings to go through. I cannot remember them from the top of my head as i'm not near my car at the moment. Go through the following Teyes how-to's and guides, it will give you a better understanding of the settings https://teyes.uk/pages/tech-portal https://teyes.uk/blogs/news/random-faults-and-solutions?shpxid=f65462bf-03fe-480e-aeab-06cba5995630

Glad you got it working and apologies for late reply. Been very busy and i'm not always on here. for the interest of saving others time in the future and to prevent myself answering this same audio question over and over again, I will explain the audio solution on the Model A. I get quite a lot of messages about the audio issue on the Model A installation. It's not really an issue and comes down to the installation and understanding how to wire it. The audio is very simple. If you look at the connector that comes with the Teyes model A harness pictured below: The white end of that goes to the back of the Teyes screen and the blue connector goes to the OEM unit to the pictured port below: Once this is connected your sound will work. It works through the factory aux channel. Also have a look at the pic below. The pink ones I have put X on do not plug anything to them. The red one is the AUX as I mentioned above which you connect the wire i showed you above and the blue one next to the aux that ive highlighted in brown border needs to not be connected but instead the connector that originally comes there should have a single wire on it which connects to the Teyes harness which also has a single wire on it. And another thing to mention is that the teyes comes with a spare Aux in connector but the main Aux in is included with the main connector that has the Mic In connector so you wont need the Aux in connector. finally, the canbus setting you need is pictured below:

It's the official windows Toyota/Lexus application.

TechStream

So you need type B of Teyes or if you getting from your eBay link then the non-fibre version. I replaced the 3.5mm aux socket in my armrest with an OEM looking universal one that has 3.5mm and USB and the USB is connected to one of the Teyes USB ports. This gives me access to loading files on the Teyes for side-loading apps. Or loading content etc as well as doing firmware updates. Temperature controls are controlled by a CANBUS module box that is included. The temperature can be adjusted directly through the universal frame that comes with it, as well as you can control the temperature through the Air Conditoning settings in the Vehicle Settings App. The one issue you will face is that the frame is mass produced for the LHD market and hence the drivers climate/temperature +/- buttons will be on the opposite side. And the confuse the matter more, when you set the drivers position in the setting to RIGHT, the display will show the drivers temperature on the correct side but the physical buttons will be on the wrong side. I've corrected this by reverse-engineering the PCB board and figuring out the resistors linked to it and de-soldering and moving the 4 resistors around. As for steering wheel controls. Out of the box it's all pre-programmed. So it will do everything it is pre-programmed to do. Volume, Up and Down, Prev Next Track etc all work. There is a setting that sometimes you have to enable to flip the Next and Previous track around as in some cases it's wrong way round. The voice button is pre-programmed to the Teyes Voice system. You CANNOT custom program the steering wheel buttons to whatever you want it to do out of the box. Regardless of what you read in the chinese listings. The listings are universal adverts for the unit in general. I adapted it so I can re-program the voice button to map with Siri or Android Auto. But this required a modifcation on the Teyes loom. As for the volue knob on the CD changer. This is know as the master car volume and is seperate to the system volume that is adjusted via the steering wheel volume dials. What I do is keep my master car volume at about 36/37 (Mine is an ML) and then I keep my android system volume at 7 or 8 via the steering wheel control. Hope that helps. Whether you need A or B depends on what factory system you have as explained in previous posts. In general, if you have a USB port that lets you play mp3 files via your factory navigation system then you need Model A Teyes.

Based on your pics above, you have the Model B. So technically you should not have a USB port in the centre arm rest either just a 3.5mm aux. So yes you need Type B or if you buying from your eBay link then it’s non fibre version which you don’t need to say anything as the listing states it will be that Harness anyway unless you message requesting the harness for the other type

This is NOT specific to the Teyes or the 9" or 10" systems. This is specific to the actual frames. The frames are not manufactured by Teyes, they are made by certain factories and all the head unit suppliers will provide their head unit whether it be Teyes CC3, XTRON or any cheap replica. They all use the same frames. for exampe here is a link directly to the 9" frame https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003704205123.html These are mass produced for the LHD market and pre-programmed to be LHD. I've heard that the newer 10" frames they've started to make this changable through settings but have yet to see it actually being implemented. As it stands, the only way to swap the climate buttons around is to switch resistors around. Here is a video demo showing the RHD climate switched by removing resistors and re-soldering them.

100% agreed on that. The thing with the lower spec system is that you are not going to get things like wireless Apple CarPlay and Wireless Android Auto natively built-in. You are going to then need to splash out 30 to 50 quid on a round about way with a dongle and kind of ruins the user experience. I found the Teyes user experience to be the best out of all the ones i've tested. The CarPlay and Android Auto UI works the best and the system comes back to where you left off every time. I purchased my CC3 top spec 128gb model for £420 and that was with fedex 4 day delivery from china. So an extra £170 well spent. Not to mention if you ever sell the car you could put OEM unit back in and sell the Teyes seperately as it wil always be in demand.

And here are a few pics of my Teyes system installed. I've kept airvent off for now as I have some other work to do in that area so plan to take the vent out again 🙂

Sorry guys, but this is getting somewhat unnecessarily complicated when it needs not to be. Please do not trust everything you read on chinese adverts. I have installed a good number of these units for people. Including the exact non-ML satnav one like the OP. Picture below: I've installed these units on 2006 ML Nav, 2012 Nav Non-ML, 2011 Nav ML. And as long as you get the 9" version then these are 100% compatible regardless of fibre or not. The confusion with the fibre box comes from this ebay listing that the OP posted. The listing states if you have fibre version then they'll send you a different power harness not a fibre box (i'll explain the fibre box at the end) What the listing really should have said is just like the Teyes advert, you either have a certain type A or type B system. And based on that there are two different harnesses for the system. Simple as that. But what the OP's ebay link means is exactly the same thing type A which is what the OP needs in that ebay link is reffered to as fibre version. If you look at the picture below of a ML and Non ML 2012 lower CD changer, both have the white fibre connector that i've circled in red. This is what the ebay seller is using to determine whether you need type A harness or Type B harness. These systems DO NOT use any part of the fibre connections whatsoever, so please don't over complicate this fibre issue. The fibre connections remain on the lower CD changer and do not require any connections. Now in regards to this so-called fibre box. Let me try and explain as easily as possible. @McShmoopy has what we call the Type A system which is the factory nav. He then purchased an XTRON 10" unit. Now as I mentioned before, the 10" versions are not made for the factory nav systems. So if you get that and plug in to the 2006 to 2009, you can get it working mostly but will have some lacking functionality. But if you get that and try and install it on the Type A system you need a completely different processing unit which basically acts like a multimedia ECU to bridge between the car and the 10" system. This is because in the Type A Nav systems (regardless of whether its ML or Non ML) the processing is done by the upper unit on the navigation system. So disconnecting the top unit practically means you lose communcation with HVAC system and the cars multimedia system. So, to to install the Type A 9" compatible systems you need to dismantle your upper screen and take just the processing unit and keep that mounted. So this is why on the 10" systems they have a seperate unit that does the job of the factory screen. Below are some pictures of how a I installed a Type A system for someone. The original screen dismantled and kept the processing unit in place so the system can work So in short, the OP if you want to buy from that eBay link, you need to tell the seller you have the fibre version which is AKA Type A. But personally I would not recommend that eBay one as it's very underspecced and a lot of these other chinese head units have rubbish software compare to the Teyes. Teyes have a very intuitive all-in UI and looks and feels very premium.

I've installed quite a few of these for people. And from what I know, the fibre box is only needed if you are trying to install the 10.2 inch system on the factory nav system. They call it the fibre box but essentially it's a seperate processing unit required to run the 2009+ factory nav systems regardless of whether you have fibre cable or not. And BTW both ML and non-ML both have a fibre connection going to the CD changer. If you have factory nav system, you need the 9 inch system as pictured below. As @McShmoopy said, check out the thread he created about the XTRONS system where i've posted lots of information about the Teyes system. PS: On a sidenote, a search on the forum first to see if the topic exists will save us having a lot of repetitive content on here 🙂 just FYI

No problem at all, most welcome 👍

The keycard that's compatible with the 2IS including the ISF is from a Lexus LS460 and has a code of 14ABC however to confuse the matter, there are two variations of 14ABC. One is made for the Lexus LS600h and the other is for LS460. The one that works on the 2IS including ISF must have a physical label looking like below. Notice the marking saying POSTEL/2007. That’s the important stuff. I've found from trial and error that only the 14ABC with the POSTEL/2007 marking as per picture below works on the 2IS and ISF. The other version of the 14ABC that does NOT work looks like the picture below, so avoid key cards looking like the picture below. If you buy second-hand, remember it will need to be erased by a locksmith who can erase the Toyota Smart Chip keys.

The VLANDS and HC motions do have the servos in them to adjust the beam height using the manual switch adjuster. This can easily be adapted to work with the automatic level sensor. The level sensor system works on the basis that the height sensor on each front wheel is essentially a variable resistor that measures from 0 to 45 degrees of movement in car height. And depending on what angle the height sensor is at, it creates a voltage between 0 and 4.5V. This voltage is then translated into the value that the servo needs to adjust the height for the motor. The ones I got do not appear to have any servos in them, but if it annoys me I can easily fit an external motor connector to the adjustment cog to do the same thing. But as it stands my beams are aim correctly and they do not dazzle anyone. I tested it with full load and no load, the beams are actually somewhat dipped lower but the throw is still very good and the brightness of the pure white LED's is amazing.

Yes they are the OEM 19" ISF Wheels. The headlights I have got are not the HC Motion ones. The HC Motion ones with the shorter check/tick DRL LED on top does have the 3 pins for the levelling motor however it's for the manual levelling adjustment switch system. It's not for the automatic height levelling system. The automatic levelling system uses 4 pins (pin 12, 13, 14 & 15) The headlights I got do not have any motorised levelling system at all. Therefore, the beam verical and horizontol adjustments need to be done using a hex socket. Basically they are very simple, they only have the essential pins which i've attached a picture of the pinout below. I used this for bench testing the lights. Regarding the AFS, when I installed the OEM DRL headlights back in 2012, removing the fuse to disable AFS wasn't an option because removing the fuse essentially disables auto-levelling and seeing as the OEM headlights have auto-levelling, I didn't want to lose that function so I did in fact disable the LED for the AFS on the cluster. But now that I have the new headlights which don't even have self-levelling system, I could potentially pull-out the fuse as I dont have the adaptive cruise control anyway. If I had adaptive cruise control then that fuse will also disable that. I'm working on the 3IS cluster project which will be going in soon and that cluster doesn't have any AFS errors anyway. Sneak peak below at the cluster project in the works.

I was going to do what lexus.trilogy did but then decided against it as speaking to some of the chinese suppliers they have hinted that an aftermarket fog may be in the works. Currently the 4IS doesn't have fog lights at all hence why the clone doesn't have it either. Took a few more photos today after washing and sealing the car. Still need to do some final finishing touches of the installation. Pics below

Thank you 🙂 These lights have really good output compared to the OEM DRL headlights I had. They are way better than the VLAND headlights that became quite popular and the DRL check/tick works in the full brightness DRL and dim parking mode too just like OEM.