Boothby Coggles

I think you should report any accident to your insurer even if you make no claim. If you don't & later on you have another accident and make a claim it's quite possible that the insurer could refuse to pay out on the basis that you withheld relevant information from them if they happen to find out or know about the first. They are always very quick to get out of paying out if they can. Read your insurance policy very carefully to see if there's any reference to what you should report. There probably is

Not surprising - A very high percentage of them are weird ;) :o - I bet most of the beige ones are being driven around California

Yes it does. The sales manager at my local BMW dealer always used to try & persuade (usually successfully) prospective buyers to have black, dark blue, silver or similar colours because of their better resale value. Think about it, how many other BMWs in other colours do you see? Also I remember reading, some fair time ago, an article on this subject which quoted various makes, their favoured colours and the relative resale values.

EDIT Should have put the date for the 1st set of prices - this was early April

Locally, petrol was 103.9p, premium diesel 112.9p and ordinary diesel 111.9p. the price differences were petrol > premium diesel 8.7% and petrol > ordinary diesel 7.7%. Now the prices are 89.9p petrol, 111.9p premium & 104.9p ordinary. The differences are now 16.7% and 24.5%. Is somebody getting ripped off :eerrrmm: ? Who's doing it? Those incompetent crooks in Westminster or the greedy crooks with oil wells? Or both lots?

Highly likely, sooner or later, that you'll get hauled over by someone wanting to reach his target for tickets

FWIW - Lister's website now says this vehicle was sold on November 10 : http://listersgroup.co.uk/Used/Vehicle/Lex....0_SE-L/1018554

out I would dearly love to swap my '06 220d SE MM with 32k for a 250 Auto SE (no MM) of similar age & mileage, but don't feel inclined to fork out too much cash in addition. Does anyone know what the likelihood of a dealer doing it on a cost to change in the region of £1-2k ? I wouldn't hold out too much hope. I found out last week that the Lexus dealer offered £9k for my 56 plate 220d. I got £12k dead on my deal using an independant to offload the car when I bought the S80 and was offered £12,500 against a new Rav 4 by Toyota. If Lexus are offering that kind of money on the 220s they're either struggling to shift them or trying to shaft the customer big time. Your local dealer might be different though. Mine are not to be trusted in my experience. Thanks. I wouldn't trust my local dealer with a light bulb :o

Same with mine on cold mornings - seems to me to be normal - Perfectly ok with no delay when re-starting after it's had chance to warm up

out I would dearly love to swap my '06 220d SE MM with 32k for a 250 Auto SE (no MM) of similar age & mileage, but don't feel inclined to fork out too much cash in addition. Does anyone know what the likelihood of a dealer doing it on a cost to change in the region of £1-2k ?

You might find the IS a bit small/cramped after a Volvo S60 - not as much room in the back & the boot is smaller. I found my S60 to be a more comfortable vehicle - the seats are better, both for comfort & driver's position. I notice it in my IS - the pedals are very slightly offset - not a huge problem, but I notice it every time I get in the car. As for spec - if you have an IS go for the SE at least. I've got multimedia in mine & the rear camera is helpful & the sound system pretty good, but not quite to my taste as much as the Volvo was. The rest of the multi media is, for me, pretty superfluous - no real need of the bluetooth etc - they're business tools. As far as the sat nav goes - very good, but no speed cameras. Are you likely to want to pay heavily for updates every year? Probably a better/more flexible option is a TomTom or Garmin etc. - does more or less the same for a lot less money.

Interesting too see that I'm not the only one to have had problems with Lexus Lincoln. Isn't it about time that they were listed in the Dealer Review list?

No, it's not just you. It's me, my wife & our 2 dogs - the last 3 go crazy . I don't mind too much the 5th itself, but these days people stretch it out over 2 weeks which is ridiculous. Also I don't know why people waste a lot of money on a few crappy bangs and flashes when they can get a better display at an organised event at a far cheaper price. Was a he a terrorist or a freedom fighter ? If he'd succeeded we might have ended up with a better political system - Democracy in this country - my 4r5e :megaangry:

Thanks - We've a 4 bed detached and it will be a new boiler & cylinder. With it being a different make of boiler & the cylinder I imagine that there will be more work than a straightforward "drop in" for the new boiler, e.g. flue in a different position etc. However, from what you guys are saying it does seem that the price we've been quoted is on the heavy side. But my wife's paying for it & she's of a very impatient nature so she's happy to throw money at it . Thanks for all your help & comments :D

It was the main h/e both times. The plumber has said that it could be down to the hot water cylinder - It is apparently the original one installed in the house when it was built in about 1980. The coil in the cylinder could be letting air in to the system causing holes in the h/e. As regards the boiler the last 2 we've had were Malvern non-combi condensingn& the new one will be a Worcester. The plumber did say that the faults we've had since 2001 shouldn't have occurred: 2004 New burner "heat shield" New 3 way valve 2005 New control board 2007 New ceramic board kit & thermistor (Is this ceramic board kit the same as the heat shield in 2004?) Also the usual servicing & system pump. Fargo, did I read it right as £300-£400 for a straight boiler swap? Seems rather low to my (very) inexperienced eye. Surely the boiler alone would be anything up to £1000, or more for some boilers.

Thanks for that but already committed to the plumber due to pressure from the wife, she always suffers from the cold. Also I think Fargo is Middlesex based which is too far away.

I've now got an answer to my original question. Had a plumber in today & he says that a condensing boiler should last 10 to 15 years. He's never heard :o of Malvern boilers & I shouldn't have had to fork out in the 7 years I've had this one for the repairs it's needed, (about £700). The heat exchanger has gone (again) and can be replaced but we've decided it's not worth it as we would always be waiting for the next problem. So it's £2.5k for a new boiler & cylinder. Oh Joy

You might as well hang on to the Glowworm while you can if my experience of condensing boilers is anything to go by - they must have cost me well over £2k in the last 14 or so years. I can't imagine that the extra gas you might have had to pay for would come any where near that

Seem to remember reading or hearing somewhere that condensing boilers don't last as long as the older type, which could be well over 10 years. My previous condensing boiler had a corroded heat exchanger which of course caused the water to get in to other parts. The unfortunate thing was that we were away on holiday at the time so the water leakage had plenty of time to cause damage to other parts making the whole thing useless. They are supposed to be a lot more efficient than the older ones, so cheaper to run. What they don't tell you is that they cost more to buy and probably more to maintain. I've spent over £400 for repairs on this one in the 7 years I've had it.

Why is it that as soon as we get a really cold snap the central heating goes kaputt . My condensing boiler gas boiler has sprung a leak today & we've got a frost forming outside . The boiler is "only" 7 years old, having been a replacement for the previous condensing boiler which also sprang a leak when it was about 5 or 6 years old. Does any one have any idea how long such a boiler should last?

I don't now get a flat spot on my '06 220d SE in 1st but it can be a bit tricky with 2nd if I am trying to emerge at a junction in 2nd when the car has a bit of momentum on the approach to the junction. I had the 5th injector & ecu done a few weeks ago but not the egr valve. Can't say that I've particularly noticed a great problem with 3rd. Now that the weather has turned cold I do find that, until it's warmed up pretty, well that I do have a problem engaging 1st gear from neutral & 2nd can be difficult as well - needs a fair bit of effort to select the gear. Did your egr get changed without any question or did you have to "push them" to do it? When I had the injector done I asked about the valve but was told that it didn't need doing as part of the recall.

Additives: I've just finished my first 500ml bottle of Miller's Diesel Power Sport 4 which lasted 4,000 miles for £10. I think that it has helped with fuel economy but I can't be sure by how much as I've had the 5th injector mod during that time which should have made some difference to economy. I don't find that there is any turbo lag on 1st gear now. Once again the additive may have helped, or it might just be that I have adapted my driving style. DPS4 is certainly worth £10 or so to see how it goes for you.

Why not see what's available in N. W. England & if you find something get a cheap flight from Belfast via Ryanair or similar to follow up on it?

A lot of that could apply here as well, but we could add: "Fill in that dirty great hole that runs from Folkestone to Sangatte"

More than likely. Regional Crime Squads used to have access to a variety of number plates that they could use on their vehicles for surveillance ops.