davidbee

I don't mind if its not 100% perfect, the car was brought for £400 a year and a half ago and was just supposed to be used 'for now' until it breaks and then would of been scrapped but 15000 miles later its still going on at 174k now.

Would I be better off trying to put the bubble on the 0 (zero) on the gauge? I wouldn't be able to get 0.1 as it would be so close to the zero anyway I may as well just put it on the zero? Or is the green line in the picture 0.1?

i'm adding this to the side of the rim using a bar from top to bottom of rim edge. not with the car on axle stands on the disc face.

oh and thanks for the comments guys :)

full droop? i have the car sitting on the floor at the time after a short drive then i check the camber on level ground.

bttt

noby i think he's talking about me, the acis valve i have mine disabled so i don't have to wait for the engine to reach 4500rpm, it feels like it all the time, (and no the intake valve inside the engine aren't open all the time, that would be a disastrous fail lol) also the lexus is200 doesn't have a VVT-i kick like the vtec kick in hondas lol i would of thought someone else would of figured this stuff out by now or i'm i just a true legend ;) http://www.lexusowne...09 join here and then look for me (David Mr Haynes Bishop) https://www.facebook...79809172041079/

i'ts one of the hardest things i've had to get to on the lexus, the solenoid and the valve is tucked under the inlet manifold, i suppose you could remove the alternator but i did mine by going under the car behind the front wheel with just enough room to get one hand up there, pulling of the pipes was difficult, the valve isn't sitting flat and it is hard to feel which way to pull the pipes to get them off, they are a little bit stuck, don't expect to be able to get any screwdrivers up there to pry the pipes off because you don't have enough room.

did you get to the bottom of this?

check the fuel pressure in this link here http://949racing.com...-injectors.aspx you'll see that with more pressure you can increase the flow rate, why not just increase the fuel pressure? same ones fitted to a mazda rx8 http://www.miataturb...0-4450-a-65301/ or here http://www.ebay.co.u...cat=0&_from=R40 or these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-1ZZ-2ZZ-Mazda-RX-8-430cc-Fuel-Injector-Yellow-/360577452840?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53f4174b28

remove the pipes and then plugging the pipes then refit them to the intake and the valve, works a treat! no more waiting for the revs to slowly build up and then at 4500 it goes like a rocket, i can over-take quickly and smoothly blasting from 50-80 with no issues :D So you're saying that to get the acis to always be in the same state it is above 4000rpm, you have to block the vacuum feed to the valve? exactly that :) i tried various things first like connecting it directly to the inlet but i got no power past 4500rpm it was sluggish, i blocked the pipes now i just get what feels like a normal full revving engine. Stuart Aspey before i got my lexus (i wanted one for a year and a half) i knew it was the type of car to drink a bit of juice and i said i wanted to fit a diesel, even a 1.9 tdi from a vw golf would feel better to drive than the sluggish straight 6 24 valve and with better fuel consumption. even the old petrol redtop engine in the vauxhalls was only 4 cylinder and making the same bhp and used less fuel. why can't we have any of those options in standard form in the lexus is200! i always felt that i had to struggle to get my car from A-B with the same amount of fuel as what used to be put in a mg-zr 120+ that we used to use, i noticed my foot was quite far to the floor in low rpm's but i wasn't really going anywhere fast but was probably using quite a bit of fuel even at cruising speed or just to even overtake a lorry was hard work and had to build up speed with my foot down quite hard before the car reached it's powerband at 4500rpm then it was safe to overtake. since bypassing the valve on the underside of the inlet manifold i no longer have this problem, i can be driving along in 4th gear at around 50 behind a lorry and then pushing my foot down the car picks up and goes and i'm hitting 80mph pretty sharpish! this is good for me and i feel it was the best FREE mod i've ever done to the lexus because i like power on tap and i feel i have more control over the power it gives rather than letting the car think for a minute and then get up and go. it may be a good idea for you to try this and just see if you save any fuel just driving normally the way that you do now, with maybe even less throttle opening to say 40% instead of 60%, i can't say if it will help you or not but it's up to you try it out, if it don't work just connect the pipes up again and you'll be back to exactly how it was before.

remove the pipes and then plugging the pipes then refit them to the intake and the valve, works a treat! no more waiting for the revs to slowly build up and then at 4500 it goes like a rocket, i can over-take quickly and smoothly blasting from 50-80 with no issues :D

i wouldn't ask any mechanic to do anything at the moment, i've been using the obd2 connected to my laptop and reducing the temp by 1 degree after a week or so or driving, it still isn't quite right on cold mornings it has some starting issues, i wouldn't do anything just yet. i'm not satisfied yet.

hmmmm nothing, would be nice to know the voltage at closed and fully opened.

interesting, let us know :)

i've got the sat nav in my car, it only works with the original cd player still in place and you'll be lucky if you haven't got err3 code, i have a jvc cd player so the sat nav has never worked, i want it out of my sight, i need the space on the top really, lexus satnav is gay! lol i use my android phone with google maps for my navigation, pointless fixing the lexus sat nav tbh.

i understand what your saying about it being lean=hot but i have taken the potentiometer to it's leanest levels and still had no detonation, the car is NOT turbo'd so the lesser fueling isn't making a lot of difference as the car see's ZERO boost levels, if it was boosted i would want to see LOTS more fuel for more psi.. also going to lean just makes the is200 idle and rev poorly, i have tried it at normal temperature with the throttle wide open in 5th gear at low speeds and zero det occurred but it didn't feel very nice to drive and some miss-firing was at idle and that's the reason i have turned it to half way, i also pulled it back a touch earlier today and cant fault the driving ability with it like this, it feels exactly the same as what it did if it was standard. just i'm using less fuel. i will leave it like this for a week or two then i'll take out the spark plugs to see any tell tale signs, you know you can read all sorts by looking at the plugs? also with the lean=hot thing it's not making any difference as the cooling is done via the thermostat and the cooling fan in the radiator, and we have zero boost so not really a major issue, hence the reason 'I' am the tester and it's my car, if it brakes then i deal with it then, it shouldn't though, i've been a mechanic for 10 years, i know what an engine is supposed to sound like and know when it's running poorly.or not and today mine seems really good, i'm impressed but not satisfied until i see those spark plugs in a few days.

i've found recently that when using an obd2 reader via my laptop the car does not get to normal operating temp and does not run into 'NORMAL' fuel mode until it's really hot, it does take a considerable amount of time to do this, if your only making a 20-30 minute trips twice a day and it takes 15-20 minutes to fully warm up, if you can make the ecu think the car is actually warmer than what it really is the fuel delivery goes to 'NORMAL' sooner and then uses less fuel as when it's cold it runs rich. if you was to make it 'think' that it should be running 'NORMALLY' then you can save on fuel on your journey, this can have a real good affect on saving fuel if you only drive for 30 minutes twice a day and you can make the car run 'normally' for 25 minutes of the trip rather than being in the normal range for 10 minutes of the trip and rich for 20 minutes, i can't be bothered to do the maths but you work it out, a rich mixture for 20 minutes or a normal mixture for 25 minutes of a 30 minute trip? i know what i would choose. currently i have a 5kohm potentiometer wired in parallel with the 'engine coolant temperature sensor' at the moment i am just twisting small amounts and seeing how the car runs and performs and will also be checking the condition of the spark plugs to see if any fueling issues are showing up, the car still feels fine even with the pot at half way around, if i go anymore than that the car has trouble starting when hot and feels a bit 'lean' in mixture, the other issue is the fact that the weather changes all year round so different intake temps can have an effect and so can fuel quality blah blah blah, if you want to try this yourself then go ahead if you don't like the idea then do't do it. (it's my car i do what i want, it's your car you can do what you want) don't like what i do then don't do it to your own and vice-versa. i will not be held responsible if anything happens to your car which 'you' did, i can write up a guide with pictures if anyone really needs it? once i have found a decent setting using the potentiometer for all-year round use i will test the ohms and then just wire in a small resistor, some guys selling this stuff on ebay making claims you can make 20+bhp is a load of rubbish but the silly fools that believe it go and spend £9.99 buying the resistor that you can get from an electrical shop for about 20 pence. if i find 'good' results i will inform you of what the ohms was that gave the better results, the ones on ebay are 4.7kohm but it's not the right type at all if wired in parallel. my pot is set now at about 2.5kohm but i need to do more testing as it doesn't quite feel right at the moment, although i am saving fuel (i am putting less fuel in the tank to get me to the same place as what i would do every week and i have been enjoying my car more as i can go on more trips now the fuel is more affordable and i'm using less fuel) i also have a heavy right foot so even doing this i can floor it more and to be totally honest i feel a lot happier with the car and myself (man and car bonding) my main problem when buying this car was the fact i already knew they are quite juicy as well as a few other things like the front tire issues and the cd player and the rear bushes and the sticky calipers and the list goes on, most of my issues are resolved, now to get the fueling down and squeeze some power out of the 1g-fe, one day i will see what the dynp says. also if your interested in taking a look at what i did to modify that kick at 4500rpm have a look on the lexus is200 page on facebook where i have tried different options and have found good results, like the page as that's where i am most of the time, i can answer questions and give some advice if you need it or just show off your car with some cool pictures :) here is the page https://www.facebook...79809172041079/ my name is David Bishop https://www.facebook...avid.bishop.566 Dave.

i have my air filter going over ther top of the engine then routed to a large hole so the filter sits behind the hole next to the fog light behind the bumper. (my abs unit is not located where yours is either)

can't you pop to the scrap yard and get a second hand replacement? cars aren't cheap to run, i fix all mine myself, the lexus is the best car ive owned, it has it's issues but i dont care :D

bump please :)

i've been doing the camber/toe on my own car as i trust no garage and cant afford to take my car to a garage to have it done (long story, don't say its only £30-£60 when i don't have that available) on a plus side when i last did the camber myself my part worn tires lasted 10k miles :) no inside tyre wear just spread across, but i was all trial and error just looking at the tread wear and moving the camber once a month. i have a camber gauge which i have been using for some time but i would like some advice on where to put the bubble, i will add a picture to make it easier, i was told 0.10 camber is good as stock is 0.20 is this correct? if so where is that on the gauge? the red bit is where it is now, the green line is where i think 0.10 should be so should i put my camber to the green line? is that the correct place?

Ok must be something my end, ive tried the scrap yard but they dont have an is200, im thinking about buying another is200 for some bits and then sell the bits i dont need, this one only cost 400

Both of the links say the items have been removed? No one breaking an is200?