br1anstorm

Well done Barney - glad you got it sorted. If I recall correctly, it was fellow-member Scudney who gave me advice on sourcing a replacement mirror unit too.

Mr Google is your friend on this one. There are at least three or four different variants of the OEM radio/cassette/CD player unit. Some have the CD slot at the bottom, some at the top; and the connectors at the back apparently differ. The relevant model numbers include 13901, 13902, 13903 and 13906 (there may be others). The number is on the front panel by the cassette slot. You may need to check to see which version of the head unit was original to your car's model-year.

I did warn that a genuine new "all-singing" IS300 mirror-glass from Lexus was eye-wateringly expensive. The price of the mirror glass alone makes £75 for a complete second-hand mirror assembly look cheap. Now you know why I recommend trying to source a scrapyard or auction-site replacement! Sounds as if Toyotatech in Guildford are good people to know. Pity I'm at the opposite end of the country....

You're welcome, Barney. Just make sure you are sitting down comfortably and have spoken nicely to your bank manager before you call to order the replacement part from Lexus..... Personally I'd still suggest trying a scrappie or the well-known auction site for a replacement mirror glass (or indeed the whole unit). Then you can try the removal/installation trick knowing that if you succeed you will have saved a tidy amount, while if you do screw up you've only 'lost' a few quid - well maybe £20-30 if you haggled successfully. And you still have the dealer option as a fallback if your DIY fails. Slightly different example - I had to do the same when a mirror-glass on the Merc I used to own got whacked. Felt like doing brain surgery, but I managed it, and the glow of satisfaction at saving something like £300 was worth it! Good luck whichever route you choose....

Haven't been on the forum for a while, but have just come across this thread. I had the same problem on my 2002 IS300 SportCross, so I did quite a bit of research online and on forums (both UK and US). The door-mirror problem is quite widespread and well-known. But it's also a bit complicated. And it's not water-ingress. First, there is a difference between IS200 and IS300 mirrors. All are heated. Depending on model year, the switching for the heating element is apparently different. I don't remember the details, but as Chris has noted, on some year models I think the power supply is permanently on with the ignition, on others it is linked to the heated rear window switch. But the stain on the mirror glass is not directly caused by the heating element going bad. The problem is the "anti-glare" or auto-dimming feature of the mirrors. As far as I can establish, only the IS300s have this feature. It's a bit like the polarising, or auto-darkening, of some sunglasses. The mirror glass is treated, or backed, by some sort of light-sensitive chemical, so that it dims when bright light shines into it. It is this chemical which degrades, turns liquid, or attacks the silvering reflective layer on the back of the mirror-glass. The "stain" spreads slowly - like an ink stain. There is no cure except to replace the glass. The full parts-index confirms that although the size and shape of the mirror glass is the same for IS200 and 300, the part for the IS300 is more expensive (because it has this extra feature). But an IS200 mirror glass will fit (assuming the connections for the heating element are the same, and that may depend on model-year). But the replacements are expensive (£hundreds....). So it's worth searching the scrapyards... A quick and simple solution for a few pounds from a well known auction site is a replacement stick-on mirror glass. This will keep the car MoT-legal and does the job. It is possible to prise out the faulty/stained mirror glass. There are four little plastic clip fittings on the plastic backing to the glass which hold the mirror-glass into the housing and on to the pivoting motor plate inside it. A search on the well-known video site will show up a guide which illustrates how to pop the glass out - with great care....See here https://youtu.be/i-iYNaUpMdw . Then you can pop in your scrapyard replacement.

Yep, I agree with others - get Tony to check the geometry. I travelled all the way down from Scotland to have him adjust mine, and it was definitely worth doing.

Mike - have pm'd you

Thanks, Scudney - very helpful, have pm'd reply.

The glass in the LH (passenger) door mirror of my 2002 IS300 Sportcross has recently developed what looks like an ink-stain in the bottom right corner. I can't yet judge whether it is spreading and getting any larger. It looked initially as if it was simply the "silvering" on the back of the mirror coming off, or corroding in some way. But a browse on this and other Lexus forums and websites has revealed the cause of the problem, and it seems to be unique to IS300s. All IS 200 and 300 door/wing mirrors are electrically adjustable and heated and - in general - the entire mirror assembly from an IS200 will fit an IS300 and vice versa. But here's the key point. The mirror glass in the IS300 units is also "auto-dimming" (photochromic). It is the same stuff as in those "transitions" spectacles and sunglasses which go dark in direct sunlight and lighten up indoors. This is thanks to some LCD-type molecular chemistry technology involving silver halides. Apparently the "staining" in IS300 mirror glass occurs when this chemical compound in the glass deteriorates. It's not exactly a leak of liquid, but something similar. It is apparently irreversible. So there is no alternative but to replace the glass (which can be done, with care....), or the entire assembly. So to my questions. Can anyone advise the specific part number for a 2002 IS300 LH mirror glass (ie the one which is autodimming/photochromic as well as having the heating element)? I need the UK part number, as the US parts catalogues are different since LH is the driver's side. And if anyone has wide experience of replacing these mirrors: is the wiring connector for the mirror glass the same for all of them - IS200 and 300? I am assuming it is, since the photochromic feature does not depend on a power source, so all the mirrors should simply have wires for the heating element. NB I am referring to the connector off the back of the glass, not the wiring connecter for the entire assembly which comes through the doorframe and also includes the connections to the motor I am hoping to find a genuine used IS300 mirror unit or glass off the well known online auction site. But if I have to settle for an IS200 mirror without autodimming as a replacement, I just want to be sure that the wiring connector will fit.

Stop press - as noted in another thread, it looks as if Tony Bones and WIM may soon be leaving the premises at Milton Keynes.... but are presumably still operating at Chesham? Anyone planning a visit might be wise to check first.

Just have to say I agree with matt-c about fitting narrower - not wider - tyres for winter/snow use. Also very important to calculate rolling radius and gearing when changing wheel and/or tyre size. There are a couple of websites which take the pain out of calculating equivalent tyre and wheel sizes if you are thinking of changing. Look at http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html - which has all the info you'll ever need. Or there's a US website which also has a built-in calculator - see http://www.dakota-truck.net/tirecalc/tirecalc.html .

As Chris says - Tony is very helpful and he can explain the settings over the phone. But it's not just a simple matter of figures, so you (and whoever does the work locally) need to understand how it works. The camber, toe-in and caster all need to be adjusted (strictly speaking caster is non-adjustable....!) . The thing is that adjusting one setting shifts each of the others, so each setting needs to be re-adjusted until all three are re-set to the WIM spec. Also it needs to be done by a decent alignment shop with a Hunter machine: it's not a job for your local Kwikfit spannerman. As I'm even further from Chesham/Milton Keynes (I live near Inverness) I was going to have mine done locally.... but then found an excuse to make a trip south for various reasons so added in a call at WIM in Milton Keynes. I reckon the eventual savings on new tyres will justify making the trip.

I'm puzzled too: not sure what Pete is apologising for..... Anyhow, the full address of Wheels In Motion is Unit 9, Northfield Drive, Milton Keynes MK15 0DQ.... tel 01908 768272. They are linked with Atomic Wheels, which is the logo on the building.

For anyone else who is thinking about making a trip to WIM (or who thinks it's too far to go, or not worth it), DO IT! I recently made the journey to MK from the north of Scotland. Well worth the time and money. I bought my 2003 IS300 Sportcross just over a year ago. One owner, immaculately looked after, fsh and all that. It drives well, and the tyres were good, but I noticed in the sheaf of invoices that the front tyres had been replaced a lot more often than seemed normal. Then I found the LOC, this forum, and Tony Bones.... I happen to live near Inverness, so initially contacted Tony to ask if he could let me have the new/correct geometry settings so that it could be done locally. He kindly explained it all over the phone. But then as I happened to have other reasons for making a trip to London a month or two ago, I decided to add in a stop at WIM Milton Keynes and have the settings done by the guys who know. 45 minutes on the machine, some gentle tweaking and the geometry is sorted. So now I join the many LOC members (and WIM clients) who can look forward to 'normal' front tyre wear and a car that handles as it should. When we have experts who take the time to troubleshoot problems, figure out answers, and provide great service, then we should support them and use them!

Might be stating the obvious, but I'd suggest you make a point of asking whoever does your wheel-balancing to use stick-on weights, not the ones that clip onto the rim. On some alloys there is no alternative to using stick-ons; but many workshops will automatically try to hammer weights on to the rim if they can. As well as scarring the rim, the reaction between the lead and the alloy guarantees early corrosion.

Just thought I'd update and add to this thread which I started a few months ago. I have not painted my callipers yet (too busy refurbing a set of wheels). But the callipers are on my "to-do" list. Browsing one of the other LOC forums I came across a thread which discussed using high-temp paint on callipers. Most people thought this was unnecessary. But what I remember was a comment from someone who wasn't happy with Hammerite because it flaked off (maybe bad preparation?). The interesting alternative suggested was Japlac gloss enamel specialist paint (from a well-known DIY store whose name consists of two letters joined by an "&"). I think I might try that....

Just to update (and close?) my own thread. It seems there wasn't a problem with the alarm/immobiliser, and now that the battery is recharged and reconnected, all is well. The only thing I had to be prepared for was that, as soon as I reconnected the (charged) battery, the alarm went off - so I had to then switch it off using the wireless remote key .

Thanks, especially to Steve2006 - that linked web page was exactly the advice i needed. And I knew there had to be a specific tech term.... "parasitic battery drain"!

Thanks, dave1 - I wasn't planning to use one of those booster packs, just jump-leads from another battery (which according to the owner's manual is OK, provided of course the connections are done correctly!). In fact while the battery was out of the vehicle and charging, I spoke to a Lexus tech guy on the phone. His verdict was that the clicking was a relay trying to activate (possibly for the anti-theft alarm). In the event, once the battery was recharged I reconnected it. The alarm then went off - which was a relief - and I was able to switch it off using the wireless remote in the normal way. A decent road -run to warm the engine and get the battery fully charged seems to have dealt with the problem. I would however like to check to see if the battery goes flat again. Can anyone tell me the best way to measure the small current drain that does normally occur (radio-memory, alarm, etc) when the ignition is switched off, and what should the reading(s) be?

I have just posted a request for advice on dealing with a flat battery in my IS300. I have also been looking through the forums and my drivers-manual for advice and clues, and this has raised another question. I discovered the "flat battery" problem when I could not even open the doors. The wireless remote unlock wouldn't work. So (almost without thinking!) I opened the drivers' door with the key. It opened. There was no alarm or anything. I put the key into the ignition and turned it on. Nothing. Then I looked at the interior light. Nothing. So I jumped to the conclusion that the battery was flat, and went on to try to charge it. I have since been re-reading the manual, and find that it says that - if the car is locked with the remote (which mine was) and then is opened physically with the key, the anti-theft alarm will go off. Mine didn't. Obvious question - if the battery was totally flat, would this in fact mean there is insufficient power even to set off the alarm? Or is there some sort of back-up power for the alarm? If so, why didn't mine go off when I opened the door with the key? So I am now wondering - has something gone wrong with the alarm/immobiliser set-up - and if so have I inadvertently made the problem worse by trying to charge, and then disconnecting, the battery?

My IS300 Sportcross has been sitting outside and hasn't been used for about a month (I've been away). Tried to start it this morning, and the battery was totally flat (even the remote unlock wouldn't work and there's no interior light). I assumed that - as it's been sub zero most nights - this must have affected the battery, although it's worrying that it shoudl go flat in a matter of a few weeks. Maybe there is a power-drain somewhere. But as a first step, I thought I'd connect a trickle-charger to revive the battery, which is what I normally do with any of my other cars I thought I would do so without disconnecting the battery terminals, so as not to deprive the security/alarm systems etc of power. As soon as I connected the charger there was a regular loud "clicking" sound from somewhere in the engine bay, and the needle of the charger twitched along with the clicks. When I switched off the charger the clicks continued, and only stopped when I physically disconnected the charger from the battery terminals. What does this indicate? I'm no auto-electrician, but this doesn't seem normal. Does it mean there's a major power-drain or bad connection somewhere which is the source of the clicking sound? Meanwhile I have disconnected and removed the battery and have started trickle-charging it separately . I am wondering whether to put it back and try using a booster-battery to jump-start. But before doing so I'd like to know what caused the clicking sound, in case connecting another battery via jump-leads risks doing harm. Any thoughts/comments would be appreciated.

Really sorry Janet - I didn't fully read the thread I'm going to have to ask Steve where the knowledgebase has gone as every thread that contains a link to it comes up as Err404 as pointed out. I have a feeling that when things changed over it may have not been put back. Will find out for you asap :) Just want to add my voice to the plea for directions to the Knowledgebase. I had bookmarked some key refs, and all now come up with Error 404. I want to get the info on suspension/steering geometry settings, which - according to some forum posts - Tony-Bones may have posted up into the old Knowledgebase.

Andy W - as we are fellow SportCross owners and enthusiasts I have PM'd you (on the subject of wheels!)

Just thought I'd add that I share your joy. Recently bought a 2002 IS300 SportCross - approved used, from a dealer. Not bargain-basement, but good value for a full-history one-owner car with just over 60k miles. The car is superb. Smooth, quiet, fast enough, and very capable. The 17" alloys are slightly scabby, but I am planning (shock!) to refurb and fit a set of 16" wheels to improve the ride and cope with the potholes and bumps on local roads. I look forward to comparing notes with other owners about what to do to keep the car in good shape...

A lot of us Lexus owners seem to want to change or upgrade our wheels. I was one of them! eBay is of course a good source of alternative wheels. But wherever you get them from, chances are you may have to arrange for a courier to collect/deliver them. This is a warning based on my experience. My first encounter with wheelcourier.com was good. Their quote for shipping a set of four wheels was more attractive than anyone else I had found. I placed the order online via their site, the wheels were collected as arranged, and they arrived safely. I was impressed. But then came my second encounter. I had bought another set of four wheels and tyres from a Lexus owner in NW England, and needed them delivered to me in Scotland. I booked the collection and delivery via wheelcourier.com. All four wheels were collected (in two packages) from the seller on the agreed date. A couple of days later... just one package, containing only two wheels, arrived. I emailed wheelcourier.com, and got a reply assuring me that the other package with the remaining two wheels, would arrive "next day". It didn't. Nor - despite further email exchanges - did it arrive the following week. So I started investigating, using the barcode and other details on the one package that did arrive. This revealed an interesting story. Briefly summarised: - wheelcourier had "subcontracted" the shipping order to a firm called P4D; - P4D had in fact placed the order with DHL Domestic, now merged with Home Delivery Network and known as Yodel; - Yodel's online tracking showed that both packages had been collected, and that one had been delivered, but that the other was - supposedly - at their Manchester depot I spoke to Yodel's callcentre, who refused to trace the missing package, saying they could only do so if asked by the company which placed the delivery order. I spoke to P4D, who were very helpful, and launched an investigation with Yodel which revealed that the package was "missing". But P4D correctly advised me that I should pursue my enquiries with Wheelcourier, since I had placed the order through them. I informed Wheelcourier by email, and got a reply saying that the investigation would take "up to six weeks". Since then I have had regular emails from P4D, informing me of the further searches they had instigated with Yodel and eventually advising that there was no alternative but to make a claim (via Wheelcourier). Meanwhile I have sent three very polite emails to Wheelcourier, giving all details and asking for their assistance in pursuing and settling the claim (NB Wheelcourier's own site says they provide insurance on all orders). I have had no replies or further contact of any kind from Wheelcourier - just complete silence. On the other hand, P4D have been exceptionally helpful and have taken up the case and the claim (which has to be pursued against Yodel) even though I did not originally place the order through them. I am still awaiting the outcome of this process. The time taken to find out what has happened to the missing package, and who was responsible, meant that the 45-day limit for raising the issue via PayPal (through whom I paid Wheelcourier for the original shipping order) has passed. So it looks as if I cannot recoup what I paid Wheelcourier for their - failed - delivery service. The moral of the story, and the message to others, is - don't rely on wheelcourier.com. Their rates may be attractive, and they may be OK when things go well. But they are in effect an agency or intermediary, and it is clear that when things go wrong, they simply wash their hands and walk away. The other message from my experience - at least so far - is that P4D are very impressive: their customer service has (so far) been excellent and even though they are strictly not obliged by any contract to assist me, they have proved very helpful. I'd be happy to give further details to anyone interested. Perhaps other forum members could post their experiences (good or bad) and advice on which courier firms to use or avoid.