Chris CPT

Hello guys. I've got my 2001 LS 430 for sale (on the LOC UK Facebook page), and am after the RX400h next, for a few reasons: fuel economy (I do mainly town driving), I need the boot space for my dog, and I like to have an AWD/4x4 capable vehicle over winter time. A couple of questions: firstly, have any of you used your 400h in the snow (and by snow I mean more than a frosting on the road) and if so what is the traction like, taking into consideration I will likely be fitting all-season tyres anyway? Secondly, my dad has a 2001 RX 300, and I wondered how much more quieter/refined the 400h actually is next to it? Thanks in advance, Chris.

Hi. Thanks for the reply. I've had a look through the forum but couldn't find an answer for why it would be sat high. If one of the compressor seals had failed, surely it would be sat low? I'll take a look at the level sensors. Whereabouts are they on the suspension? Thanks,

Hi guys. I've just bought a 2001 LS430 with the Premium Package. It's a lovely car, with the only issue being that the car is sat at its maximum suspension level. When I press the height button to 'high', there's a fairly loud gurgling-type noise coming from the front right (I'm assuming this is the compressor), but the car doesn't raise any higher and it also doesn't want to lower back to the normal setting either. The guy I bought it off said he replaced the battery not long ago, so maybe it's got confused and simply needs resetting? Any ideas or tips? Thanks in advance, Chris.

Hi guys. I bought a 1998 GS300 a couple of months back cheaply as a kind of project. Was running great, but needed a couple of tyres, cleaning inside plus a good polish and wax. Other than that it's a good car. However, it recently started 'chugging'/running rough at idle, plus hesitating as you rev it, or try to accelerate. The problem comes and goes. There are no warning lights on the dash. Checked spark plugs and coil packs and all are okay. After lots of research, it seems very likely that it's the oil control valve (OCV). I took it out, cleaned it and the little mesh filter, but the same problem happened soon after. Anyway, it's a main dealer only part; Toyota/Lexus both quoting £130 mark. . Before I go splashing that much cash out, I want to make sure it is actually the OCV. Does anyone in the Hull/East Yorkshire area own a 1998 - 2005 GS300 who would be willing to let me test their OCV in my car to see if the problem disappears? It takes literally 5 minutes to remove/replace the OCV. Thanks all, Chris.

Hey there! I shall do so at some point. It's really a bit of a project to be honest. I'm saving it from certain prolonged and unglamorous death, as so many older Lexus' unfortunately have. I'll start a project-type post when I have time. ;) Great to hear the GS I sold you is still going strong! Chris

Okay thanks for the advice guys - much appreciated. :) Chris

Thanks for the answers guys :) I actually found a really useful website for future reference. Would be a good one for members: https://www.wheel-size.com/ I don't think there'll be a speed difference as the site above states my GS also came with '60' tyres as an option. I'll get them bought anyway as they look nice. Thanks again, Chris

Hello guys. I have recently bought my third Lexus, as I was missing having one! :) It's a 1999 GS300. I was going to have the wheels refurbished but I'm not a fan of the style. However there are some of the nice ones from a 1998-gen LS400 for sale, but I don't know if they'd fit. My tyre size is 225/55R16 and the LS ones are 225/60R16. Do you think they'd still fit even with the slightly larger tyre wall? Also, is the stud pattern the same? Thanks in advance, Chris

Thanks for that. I've found one online for free that may do. The menus still aren't that well marked, but much better than EManualOnline's crud effort. Cheers, Chris

Hi chaps. My dad has a 2002 RX300, and as he is fairly competent mechanically he likes to do the majority of jobs himself. He has the Haynes manual but it doesn't cover some of the more in-depth stuff. Recently, he bought a workshop manual from emanulonline, but it's so ridiculously complex, firstly to set up, secondly to navigate to the different chapters and thirdly to find the actual files you want/need, as they are numbered files instead of simply being (for example); exhaust, sensors, wiring etc. They say it'll open if you use Internet Explorer, but Explorer is basically defunct now and crashes constantly. Very stupid setup and a waste of money. Has anyone got a proper Lexus workshop manual on memory stick or PDF format. He wants to either print it out and use it like that, or access them easily on his iPad. Thanks in advance, Chris

Hi all. Just to add. The garage that has used a code reader are getting the code P11025, which they reckon is a 'general' code, and not the specific fault. Their machine won't read the individual codes, so it's a diagnostics check required really. I've searched high and low on the 'net, and cannot find P11025 at all, and the garage insist the code isn't simply P1125 (Throttle Control Motor Circuit Malfunction). The VCS light also came on at the same time too, which is weird. Thanks, Chris

Hi guys. My dad recently bought a 2002 RX300. It's a decent one with full service history, and he had the cam belt changed as soon as he bought it. Whether this issue is to do with that is doubtful, but the other day the engine management light came on, and the VCS (stability control) warning at the same time. Our local garage checked the engine light with a fault code reader and said it was P11025, which is a throttle body code apparently. They reset the light but it's come back on again, as has the traction light again. The car doesn't seem to be driving any differently, but obviously we want to get to the bottom of this. Any ideas on what it can be guys, and have you and this issue? Could it be related to the cam belt being changed? Thanks, Chris

Hi guys. I own a rather lovely '98 LS 400, and as my dad is changing his car and wants something with AWD I've recommended an RX300 simply because it's a Lexus, and they make superb vehicles. As you'll know it's hard to find one in nice condition which has been well looked after, in amongst all the cruddy dealer trade-ins out there. So, he has a budget of around £3,000 and wants to buy as soon as we find a nice one for him. Do any of you forum members have one for sale, or know someone with one? Please feel free to send me a direct message if that is the case. Thanks, Chris.

£26.00 eBay boot seal fitted about a month ago. Slightly longer then needed so cut a section off, and then used strong sealant on just the bottom lip (where the water comes in when leaking) before fitting the seal to make double sure it won't leak. Been over four weeks now and the car has sat through some seriously torrential rainfalls plus regular washes and it's not leaked. Success! Cheers for the advice guys. Chris

In case y'all don't know, Lexus dealerships are currently doing a summertime deal on air con re-gassing. I phoned up and was really surprised with the price. £49.00 (inc VAT) includes: Check for leaks first (ask for this service beforehand though, and they'll do it for free) Re-gas the system and make it smell nice again PLUS they'll valet the car inside and out too! What a deal! I'm booking in soon. :) Chris.

Lovely machine, and I'm liking the split rear seats. If it was owned by Lexus UK originally, could it have been one of the press loan cars perhaps? I'm borrowing one from them soon to review. Can't wait! I had to opportunity to drive (read; hammer) the brand new LS 600h at the Milbrook Proving Grounds on their Alpine route, and the 2 mile 'bowl'. An immense thing even on the crazy-sharp bends, and I was blown away by how quick it was around the track. Left a new Golf GTi struggling to keep up. :) On the bowl, you could go up to 100 mph, so I set the cruise control at that and went round twice. It is ridiculously quiet even at that speed, and it felt as relaxed at that as it does at 40 mph. Brilliant, and I'm certainly buying one when I can afford it! Chris.

I used to work for a company fitting alarms, and we did a few remote start versions. Insurance companies don't like them at all, and I'd be surprised if they allow them. This is stupid as they still are fully armed when running. They all differ, but the Viper remote start system we fitted to a friends car was superb. Even after you start the engine via the remote, the car is still fully armed, so the moment they try anything the engine cuts out immediately. It was still a category 1 system too, and you can set the timer for however long you want to run the engine for (12, 20, 30, 60 minutes etc). I'd recommend them, just don't tell your (spoilsport) insurance. ;)

Hi Chris. I don't know if you've already seen this in the owners manual, but if you leave the physical metal key ring fob leaning onto either side (narrow sides) of the plastic key casing when starting or driving the car, it either won't start or will cut out shortly after starting. Also, if you have another key with a transponder on your keyring it can do the same thing as well. Worth a shot? Hope that helps. Chris.

Yes I noticed it collects. What a silly mistake for Lexus to miss when they were designing it! I'll look at putting drainage holes in as well. Thanks for the link. Thanks Adam. I'll probably just buy the eBay stuff anyway. Called Lexus and they quoted £80+VAT for one. Gulp. Thanks. I think it's had sealant on in the past and it still got through, so I'll try the aftermarket rubber strip I think, as it's not a bad price anyway.

Thanks Steve. Yes I suppose there's the money back, but I just don't want to dry out the boot and get rid of the smell for it just to happen again and have to repeat all that. If anyone's had one of these of seals on for a couple of months, and had heavy rain or washed their cars a few times without water coming in, please let me know. It'd be a big help. If not, I'll bite the (gold-tipped) bullet and buy one from Lexus. ;) Thanks, Chris

Hi all. Water leaking into the boot of my '98 LS 400. Checked it out today in the (torrential) rain, and it's running down the inside of the seal before leaking into the boot behind the trim next to the bumper. After researching on here (instead of starting 'Boot leaking' thread #2,750,000) I've deducted that this is the problem, so I obviously need a new seal. Apparently they're around £70 at a Lexus dealership, which is a huge amount for a strip of rubber, but other guys have aftermarket fitted strips and siliconed them together and had no problems afterwards. I've found someone on eBay selling these for just £26.00, and wondered if anyone has bought a seal from this seller and used it successfully? Heck of a lot less than an official Lexus one! Ebay linky Here's his description: "The boot seal on the Lexus LS400 vehicles is prone to shrinking and flattening allowing water into the boot - the leak is not noticeable unless you lift the boot carpet and look into the spare wheel well - something which owners don't do very often. This replacement rubber boot seal will solve that problem Simply remove the old boot seal and fit this one - make sure the join comes at the bottom near the boot catch - the join should be sealed with silicone. A very cost effective and easier solution rather than going to the main dealer. This boot seal will fit the Mark 1, 2, 3 and 4 LS400s - basically all the years from 1990 - 2000 Many seals sold and fitted without any problems Full refund if any problems - buy with confidence" Thanks guys, Chris

Could be that it's sucked up some crap from the tank and now the fuel filter is blocked? Get the AA/RAC to look at it and they might do it there and then, save you getting messy. ;)

I'm looking at an LS with around 115,000 miles on it. Apparently the cambelt was replaced at 60,000 miles. Because of the 'lower' milage at 115k, could I get away with replacing just the belt, or do you think it needs the waterpump, tensioner and idler pulleys done at the same time too? As a side note, I'll only be doing around 3,000 miles per year at the very most in it. PS. If I do, I'll replace them myself if it isn't a crazily-hard job. Are there any good How-To guides on here on how to replace those? Thanks, Chris

I agree. There's a reason it cost 1 billion dollars to develop over 5 years, and that's partly down to substance over style, with the drag co-efficient being extremely low. In fact it's still better than many brand-new models today! It's part of the reason why they get the best mpg out of the big luxury car line up of the era too. Personally, while I think the LS 400 isn't beautiful, there's still something handsome and masculine about it as it barges its way down the road.

Thanks Barney. It is hard-earned as well, and I should be able to ask more than just 2 or 3 questions about a car. Even if it's not much money to them in profit, they shouldn't treat people that way.