SpOcK

Feel free to PM if you will. MOT should be doable, but it won't come cheap... There should be some pictures somewhere here already, do a search.

I think I can't make it to JAE, as my vacation is not until August...

Thanks fellows! :) I'm quite happy myself as well. The "flat spot" between 1700-2600 rpm was due to the lack of fuel at that point. The std ECU operates in closed-loop until ~0.2-0.3bar, so no use trying to adjust fuelling there. And because there's not enough fuel -> there's not enough heat -> the turbos won't spool... That's until the switch to open-loop. Changes made with eManage won't have any effect until that point. But while in the open-loop and eManage assisted fuelling, she pulls like a f***er! :D

Hi, and welcome to the Club! Nice to see there's gonna be more modded IS's in this part of the world as well. Don't know about the "fastest in Finland", though... :winky:

Hello Gentlemen! It's been quite awhile since I've been here... There's been so much other stufff going on, that I haven't had the time to get my baby running, but now I finally had time to do something to my car! So I finally got her tuned on a rolling road and dynoed after the engine rebuild. And I sure can't be disappointed! I like to point out, that I've still wanted to keep her with as little mods and as close to standard as possible, as I still have the MOT to go to. Her being as close to original, keeps also the emissions as close original, which is kind of the key-point for me getting her MOT'ted. So before the dyno sheet, here are the vital statistics: NO programmable stand-alone ECU (still std ECU with piggy-back) NO injector change (std I/J's with one sub I/J) NO fuel system upgrade (such as return line and pressure regulator) NO de-catting (all cats still in place, backbox changed but std middle pipe) NO additional valve timing (such as Camcon, Greddy V-Manage) So almost every part I could have had changed to extract even more power, are still standard. Because I'm still running std ecu (with a piggy-back) and std I/J's I couldn't get enough fuel, so I was forced to stay in relatively low boost, only 0.6bar. So here it is: 306hp and 393Nm @ only 0.6bar!!!. After I get the car MOT'ted, I'm going for most of the mods listed above. Let's see what we get then...

Maybe you should get a turbo kit then :winky: Or two...

Couldn't agree more!!! B) I know how it is, you must be over the moon! Congratulations!!!

That's true and noted. As I mentioned above, I'm going to upgrade the main injectors after MOT. I've deliberately left all the things that can have effect on the emissions undone before MOT, for example the injectors, as they may cause the car to idle poorly, etc. My main concern atmo is to get the car through the MOT, and it's highly dependent of the emissions. Now on "low" boost (~0.5bar) I'm way over fueled, so no need for bigger injectors yet. Injectors aren't even near the 95-100% duty cycle. But I'm going for bigger I/J's later on, don't worry... :winky:

At first I have to map the car to put out "only" 250hp, because of the legality issues here in Finland. The car cannot have more than +20% power than the most powerful model within the same model-series (in this case it's the IS300). But after MOT I'll up the boost... :winky: My two turbos are relatively small and they are rated only ~180hp each, so at least in theory I wont be able to achieve more than 360hp. But let's see how it turns out in practice... I'm still running std ECU and injectors. In addition I have eManage Ultimate piggy-back and one 1000cc sub-injector. After the MOT I'm also planning to upgrade the main injectors to bigger ones. @Daza At what rpm does you car begin to pull/spool, and do you have to go WOT to get it to spool? What boost do you run and what the power output, if you don't mind me asking...?

Now the CEL problem is sorted. It was caused by one of the two primary lambda sensors, as it was broken. I've done some odd 500kms of running her in, and I've also started to boost her a little. Even though I've so far gone only for some 0.3-0.4 bar, she seems to pull willingly. B) Now some more driving and fine tuning the mapping, and then UP GOES THE BOOST!

So, that makes me a taxi driver, then...?

OK, still having some trouble with the CEL/DTC's. I bought myself an OBD-II -reader, and the code given was P0125, to which one possible cause is malfunctioning/broken lambda-sensor. There are a few other clues also pointing at that direction. Will get back when I get it sorted. Other than that, I've done some odd 300km of driving-in. Some 200km more, and then time to change oils. So far I've kept myself from not boosting her at all. After 500km and new oils, I'll start boosting to prolly some 0.5bar. Eventually I'm going for 1.2-1.5bar, and see what I've got... Hopefully not another blown engine!

I FINALLY GOT MY BABY BACK HOME!!!! I went to the garage, and drove my baby back home, for the first time in over a year! OK, I have to admit, that everything still isn't the way they should be, but at least she's operational enough so I could take her for a drive. I'll post more details later, but now I'm just concentrating on partying!

I asked this one guy I know who works for a local Toyota dealer, (and from whom I've been buying all sorts of bits and bobs during my project) and he told me instructions how to read DTC codes in a "poor man's" way, but I've yet to try it... This evening I'll see whether it works or not.

Thanks Mark! Does that mean that the "reader" doesn't have to be "Lexus-specific"? Any OBD2-reader will do? Am I totally delusional with this "poor man's" method, have I dreamed all this? :duh:

Anyone? Matt? (you're endless source of information... ;))

There's no point in having the boost controller set to 0.5 bar, if the wastegate spring is 0.68 bar... The wastegate spring will allow the boost to rise until it reaches that 0.68 bar which is its opening pressure. You cannot lower the boost by using a boost controller. Boost controller is used to "take over" the wastegate spring, and to hold the wastegate closed for longer = higher boost. The only way not to hit the 0.68 bar, is to control your right foot...

That's the only way to go with after market bonnet. The last thing you would want to see happening on a freeway, is your bonnet against your windscreen while doing 120km/h...

I can't see why it would be illegal... Of course I wouldn't know for UK, but at least here in Finland you could have every part of your car a different colour if you so choose. And by 'breaking parts' do you mean brakes, like discs, pads, etc? Try TDI or ProLex.

Today my CEL came on, which isn't good, but in addition the TRC OFF light also started blinking. If only CEL, it wouldn't be anything major, but now that those two lights are blinking, I guess it is... I'm sure I've read somewhere here a "poor man's" method to read the engine trouble codes without going to a Lexus dealer. Just can't remember how to do it. It involved something like "short circuiting" a few pins of the diagnostic port, then maybe some fiddling with the ignition key, and then counting the CEL blinks. I've got the service manuals, which I guess contain the interpretations for the trouble codes, but now I just got to get that light blinking... Anyone?

OK, thanks for the tip, mate! I'll check that. But still, I'd like to get the codes read. Anyone knows how to do this?

I have one spare coil pack, but I'd still first need to be able to read the trouble code, to know whether it even is the coil pack and which to replace. EDIT: and if it was a coil pack, then the engine obviously wouldn't run on all cylinders, but the the guys from the garage said that the engine runs seemingly normal...

Oh, F*ck me! Just got another call from the garage. They'd let the car run till it reached proper operation temperature, and guess what, they got CEL. And not only CEL, but also the TRC OFF light was blinking, indicating that it was not just a "minor error"... But they also said that the engine still seemed to run normally...? If my memory serves me right, there was also some "poor man's" way to read the CEL, other than paying a visit to the Lexus dealer? I guess it involved short circuiting some pins of the diagnose port, and then counting the blinks the CEL, or something like that...? Anyone knows the correct procedure? I have the service manuals, which I guess, contains the listing of the error codes. Someone please help, I'm loosing my mind! :tsktsk:

Today just may be the day... The only things that still need to be done are, one hose for the oil breathing system (correct term?), and the front bumper to be put back on. Then running the engine properly warm, and then For the first time in over a year!!! But I have to hold my horses and calm myself to first get the run-in done thoroughly... I'll let you know how it goes.

At LAST something good came up! I got a call this morning that they'd started the engine for the very first time!!! And even better, all the fluids seem to hold inside the engine... They didn't let the engine to warm up to the normal operating temperature yet, though. It was just to see whether it would even start in the first place, and if it would make any weird irrelevant noises, etc... They said it started straight on the very first go, and purred steadily like a cat! Today they're going to run her warm, and see if everything still holds. But keeping this project's history in mind, maybe I shouldn't get too excited just yet...