SpOcK

This might be a stupid question, but... Can I subscribe to Gold, as Gold Membership registration site says: "International members please note that this is a UK based membership scheme."? (and I'm from Finland)

For example in the users manual of the W124 Mercedes is says that it's normal that the engine drinks 1 litre of oil per 1000km(!). Of course that don't apply here, but it's normal if an engine drinks "a bit of oil"...

The theoretical max hp output from any given injectors can be roughly calculated from this formula: injector volume in cc * number of injectors / 5 I --> 220cc * 6 / 5 = 264bhp So Bazza, you're quite right. But that's in theory, the practise is a whole other thing... I have one 1000cc(!) extra injector on the inlet piping, and I wouldn't have managed without it... I've tried not to intentionally maxx the std injectors, but instead mapped them to, say, 80-90%, and the rest is done with the extra injector.

And oh, having tried both, I'd choose turbo over S/C anytime... ;)

The need to lower the compression ratio when turboing a N/A car becomes from the fact, that when the engine is given more air (and more fuel), there's a greater amount of exploding mixture in the same given space (cylinder), and when it is compressed the same as the lesser amount before, it has a tendency to self-ignite. This results in "premature burning", which means that the burning mixture hits the pistons when it's still on its way to TDC, which means detonation, which means death to std internals. One can upgrade to "turbo-grade/forged" internals (or better yet, it's advisable), but there's other things too to do to prevent detonation. One is, that N/A cars have quite an aggressive ignition timing, so that should be retarded. Factory ECU not being tuneable, it should be done with either "piggy-back" ECU, or stand-alone ECU. Still one way to prevent detonation is to lower the intake air temperature. Relocate the air filter to get colder air, get it heat shielded, install (bigger) intercooler, and/or use waterspray into the intake to further decrease the intake air temperature and to prevent detonation. So turbo/turbo'd car doesn't actually DEMAND lower compression ratio, it's just one way to prevent the detonation. Audi for example has made turbo engines running ~10:1 compression ratio and still with ~2bar of boost. But as I said, detonation can be mastered by other means, as well. Hope this helps. #Sami

It's one of the best (more or less...) cost effective mods you can get! I've had the B&M one for a year now, and couldn't live without it, it's such a great piece of a equipement! As others have pointed, the fitting is a walk in the park. It's so much faster to shift, and it has that "sporty whine" as in "real" sport/rally cars. But if you're more into luxury, then it's not for you... Just my 5 pennies... :)

From someone else, that is? What kind of figures are we talking about? ← Sorry, didn't notice ur PM until now...

From someone else, that is? What kind of figures are we talking about?

As tempting as those options would be, I couldn't do it as I want to remain street legal, and because of that I need to maintain OBD-II and fulfil Euro III/IV emission requirements. Stupid/Euro Finnish legislation! ← And with a custom turbocharged IS200 you are street legal?? ← Yes. As crooked as it sounds, that would be street legal, as long as I maintain OBD-II and fulfil EURO III/IV emission regulations. As I said, stupid/Euro Finnish legislation...

That's why...

As tempting as those options would be, I couldn't do it as I want to remain street legal, and because of that I need to maintain OBD-II and fulfil Euro III/IV emission requirements. Stupid Euro/Finnish legislation!

I would do it, if I could run 1G-GTE with my current 1G-FE computer... ← BUT HEY! Would this be possible if I put in 1G-GTE, but used all my current 1G-FE sensors and ECU?!?!

I would do it, if I could run 1G-GTE with my current 1G-FE computer...

1G-GTE would be VERY tempting, but the difficulty would be the ECU and the wiring loom... I wouldn't want to change all the electronics, and even if I did, I couldn't get it through MOT in Finland, as older engines don't utilize OBD-II. :(

Still std internals, mate. That's why they couldn't take the abuse anymore...

Oh, sorry for being so vague. I know who they are, I was just waiting for their input...

OK, cheers mate! Matt? Dave?

I was just on my way back from work, when suddenly when pulling away from junction, there was the LOUDEST bang followed by a mix of clinging and rattling noises... :tsktsk: I shut the engine immediately and pulled off. I then went back to see what I've left behing, and collected a handful of different engine parts off the road, including a piece of block wall and a conrod bolt. :o So, now I'm in need of an engine, or at least "bottom end". Anyone got one?

Rods look quite a bit similar to the originals, what make are they? Maybe from 1G-GTE? And what about the pistons, what make? ← Oh, I got it now... Just read another thread, and it seems that you have IS300 in stead of IS200... That explains the difference, and more "robust" appearance.

Somewhere between 350-400 hp... ← In 4th or in 5th gear...... ← Just a little snippet from another thread on this forum. 'Nuff said... Amen! :)

Rods look quite a bit similar to the originals, what make are they? Maybe from 1G-GTE? And what about the pistons, what make?

Somewhere between 350-400 hp...

Maybe you didn't read very thoroughly... I won't reduce the CR with the pistons, as I want to retain the possibility to use also the std CR, if I want to revert back to N/A e.g. when selling the car. So I'll use thicker head gasket to lower the CR. 1mm extra on head gasket equals lowered CR from std 10:1 to 9:1.

You mean this??:

I think I don't get it, what do you mean?