SpOcK

May I ask how much the conrods and pistons cost you also? As I'm going down this route soon also Rods ~1200€ (handmade in Finland with a 0.007% tolerance) Pistons ~1200€ (incl. rings and pins)

AMEN! :) From what I NOW know, I wouldn't go for more than .6 with the std internals. And STILL you have to have sure the engine gets lots and lots of fuel, which is kind of hard with std injectors. At least without an extra sub-injector...

Was the melted piston due to not enough fuel going in? If there is sufficient and correct fuelling then would this still occur? Or would it be the head gasket to go first? If so, if the headgasket is uprated then is it possible to up the boost to say .8 safely? Yes, underfueled engine will melt a piston (with correct fuelling this would not happen). No, I did not melt a piston. First I cracked the piston "wall" between the piston rings because of too advanced ignition --> detonation + N/A pistons = bad combination. Second, I think I just had too much power (=287hp/370Nm) for the std internals (rods) to handle. The boost used was .7 bar. I wouldn't worry about the std head gasket. It's 3-ply metal gasket. I think it will take all the abuse you can give to it. In my opinion, the only reason to replace it would be to replace it with a thicker one to lower the C/R. With std internals I wouldn't go for more than .5 - .6 bar to be on the safe side.

Yes and no. If you use a piggy-back ecu, O2 sims would help to keep the std ecu from compensating the alterations you've made with the piggy. But then you would need an independent extra O2 sensor - preferrably a WIDE BAND type - to monitor the correct fuelling. If you run stand-alone, then you can't use the sims, because the stand-alone ecu would need to know the mixture as well. But in this option the wide band sensor would be the best option as well. And still no need to remove the cats. It wouldn't hurt to remove or replace the PRE-cats w/ better ones (I have replaced them with better flowing Audi 2.7 bi-turbo ones (each flows over 300hp, so no restrictions)). But if running "only" a piggy-back ecu DO NOT remove the last cat, as if you do, you WILL get an engine light on because the ecu sees that the emissions are out of acceptable range! You can REPLACE it with a better one, but do not remove it. It goes like this: Pre-cats are there for to work right after starting the engine before it has completely warmed up to the required operating temperature (as they are closer to the engine, they warm up quicker). The two O2 sensors in manifold are there for the ecu to monitor the mixture. The last cat and last O2 sensor in turn are there only for the emission reasons. If you remove either of the two (in piggy-back configuration) you will get a trouble code. But these alone won't keep you from blowing the engine. With std internals, you'd have to keep the boost at a reasonable level. And from what I've been through, the safe level seems to be somewhere around .5 - .6 bar. Given that you've taken care of the fuelling...

The worst problem is when the engine is runs into lean condition. That happens when you don't have anything to add the needed extra fuelling. At least an adequate piggy-back ecu is needed to do that, but a stand-alone ecu would the best solution (for me personally that isn't an option, because of the Finnish emission legislation). When the fuelling is correct, there's no need to "eliminate" the cats. The problem occurs when the engine runs lean. Lean mixture makes the exhaust gasses too hot for the cats to handle, which makes them to "melt". Lean mixture doesn't cause the knocking/detonation, it's the too advanced ignition. So when upping the boost and addind fuelling, you must also retard ignition (and/or lower the compression ratio). Forged internals made especially for the F/I use help to cope with the detonation, as "turbo pistons" usually have a specific "detonation groove". And the rear/3rd O2 sensor doesn't have anything to do with the mixtures, it's there only for monitoring the emissions. It's the two O2 sensors in the exhaust manifold which the ecu uses to alter the mixture. So those two sensors are the ones you would want to replase with an O2 simulator. That also keeps the std ecu from trying to equalize the "too rich condition" needed in F/I applications. What did you mean with that "11:1"? The compression ratio? 1G-FE's compression ratio is 10:1. And now as I am rebuilding my engine with forged internals for the turbo use, I'm going to lower the compression ratio with a thicker head gasket to a more suitable 9:1 . Hope this was of any help. EDIT: I checked the original topic again, and it was about the injectors. 1G-FE standard injectors are good for roughly 250hp. You can get it from the following equation: 220cc (the size of the injectors) 6 (number of the injectors) ---> 220cc x 6 / 5 = 264hp

You've a PM.

Haven't weighed the pistons against the OEM, but rods are ~100g heavier than the OEM. Someone might say that's heavy, but I don't mind cause I know that these rods will take over 200hp/rod (that's 1200hp in total), whereas the OEM wouldn't even take 50hp... B)

As soon as I get the new block (thanks Matt and Dave) dismantled. Then I'll take the block to the workshop to be overbored (new pistons are 0,5mm over-sized) and honed. After the pistons fit the block I'll put it back together and under the bonnet it goes... :)

BACK IN BUSINESS! :) Well, sort of... Today I FINALLY got my new pistons! I ordered them late November, and it was supposed to take 4-5 weeks, instead the delivery turned out to be 4,5 months! :tsktsk: They were made to order by Ross Racing Pistons USA. Quality seems superb and they came with unique 4 page measurements report. All pistons weigh within 0,8 grams from each other, so the tolerance is about 0,3%. Conrods (of which I've posted earlier) were also made to order locally here in Finland, and they weigh within 0,4 grams from each other, making the tolerance only mere 0,007%!!! Quite impressive. Combining lighter rod with a heavier piston and pin in different combinations, I was able to make every rod+pin+piston combination within 0,3 grams from each other. Quite good given that original rods alone can weigh as much as 10g's from each other. Before I hear someone yell "TTIWWP", here are some pics of my beauties: The box: The contents with rings and pin locks: The inside: The whole sixtet: Check out that beauty: B) Kinda hard to tell the original from the new ones...

G'day Chaps! I've been quite busy lately, so I've not been able to post for awhile, sorry... I checked some hotel prices, and they seems to be as follows. During the week (Mon - Fri) the prices are almost twice as much as during weekends (because of the business travellers). But you would have only one expensive night (Thu - Fri), Fri - Sat and Sat - Sun are cheaper. The cheapest I could find was ~120e for Thu, and ~100e for Fri and Sat. Prices are for two persons in one room / night, so divide by 2 to get prices / pers. Prices also get higher closer to the city center. It might be a good idea to book soonish, cause Helsinki is quite a popular city in the summer, so prices tend to rise closer to the summer, or, there's nothing left to book... You might also stay at a hotel one night only (Thu - Fri), and after the Cruising event (www.eurocruising.com sorry, only in finnish) we can drive to my summer house, if that's what ppl want to do. It's quite basic, but like a heaven on earth if the weather's fine. If it's not, then there's no point going. I can post pictures (if I can find them ) if you're interested. Tell me what you wanted to do here, and I see what I can do, ok? :) Oh, and Welcome! Ta, Sami EDIT: And for those who are planning to drive here, it would be wise to check the ferry schedules and prices soonish too, as it's almost impossible to get on the boat during summer only by yourself, let alone that you would also have to book for your cars! I would recommend that you took a boat from England (Newcastle?) to either Norway or Sweden. Then the drive is bearable, and then you would take another ferry from Stocholm to either Helsinki or Turku (~160km from Helsinki, but cheaper ticket).

What I can tell from the www.blitz.co.jp, it seems that the compressor is for the IS350, and not for the IS250. Here's the translation by Babelfish: "It is the first class brand by the Japanese car, ブリッツ tunes the "rec suspension". As for GS the twin compressor, as for IS strengthening running with the single compressor. The styling equips original aero."

is250 = 4GR-FSE is350 = 3GR-FSE :D Sorry, I know it's slightly , but anyone knows the chassis codes? i.e. SXE-10, GXE-10...

This is not current for me atmo (still strugling with my engine rebuild/turbo project), but just out of intrest: Anyone heard/seen any aftermarket parts for the new IS yet, or coming anywhere in the near future? I mean bodykits (not the one from Lexus itself), exhaust, sport springs/dampers, or some sort of forced induction (like the TTE S/C)? On the other hand, the compression ratio being so high (was it 12,5:1 in the IS250?) I personally can't see it happening that we'll ever see any kind of F/I on the new IS. Also the tuning possibilities as a N/A the possibilities are next to nothing...

Mat, more specific, please...? I would think that the items in red won't fit at all because the electrics in IS200 and IS300 must be completely different. The blue ones won't fit because US is LHD, and you are RHD. The mirrors will fit. And last, the (head?)lights will physically fit, but again LHR vs. RHD...

Can't remember any of the URL's right away, but the best way to find them is to Google. The reason you haven't found any IS200 parts from the US is, that they don't have IS200 in US. Only IS300. Depends on what you're after, but pretty much all the parts are interchangeable between IS200 and IS300, EXCEPT anything that goes into the engine bay. There almost everything is different from each other... Hope this helps.

...and almost all the American cars. Plus japanese sport cars, like 350Z, some Skylines, 180SX, 200SX, 300ZX, Silvia, G35, MR2, NSX, MKIV Supra, new Supra (not out yet). And of course... all LEXUS models! :D

Now don't get this the wrong way... :D FWD is a secure choise for a novice / "sunday driver" because of it's stability, but may be pain in the a*se on slippery surfaces because of the heavy understeer. RWD may be scary to a novice when it's slippery, but it's great deal of fun for a skilled driver. There's no understeer, and corners can be "drifted"... :winky: I live in Finland where there is snow on the ground for almost half of the year, and I LOVE RWD in the winter! :D

I disagree. Different threads dissipate water from the road contact surface differently from each other, and if the threads are different on the each side of the car, then the car's behaviour on wet/snowy surfaces could become unpredictable and even dangerous... And even if two different tires' size markings would match (i.e. 215/45-17), there's still slight variation amongst different manufacturers, so it could well be the case that those two tires' diameter still isn't the same. In that case, two different size tires on the rear axle (on RWD car, of course) would ruin your LSD in no-time!

Would be interesting indeed to know what they've done to that motor... And Oh, Welcome to the Club!

Here's also a great page on TURBO CHARGING. And here's a "visual"... :winky:

I don't get it...? I live in Finland where we have LOTS of snow (therefore LOTS of salt) almost half of the year, and I've never had problems with wheels corroding. The problem is there only if you've hit a curb (or smth) and the original surface/laquer is damaged... And during the winter I wash my car (and wheels) only like once a month.

Have you tried THEM? They are based Down Under. You said you've tried Google...? Just input "IS200 turbo", and it's the 7th hit... And oh, Welcome to the Club! :)

The engine's now been taken out of the engine bay and disassembled. Here are a few pictures (sorry for the quality, mobilephone cam...): Engine with valve cover removed: Some of the removed stuff in a box (intake manifold, throttle body, fuel rail...): Draining the oil before taking the oil sump out: The hole in the block (due to snapped rod): That :tsktsk: snapped rod: Everything disassembled:

So now I have this batch in my avatar, but how to get some neat "custom title"... :winky:

Great! I've now subscribed, then. Waiting for my "pack"... :winky: