SpOcK

I also sent one std piston (Thanks again Daz! :)) to US today as a model for the new forged pistons. Uprated rods, pistons, and thicker head gasket, and I should be able to run greater 1.0-1.2 bar boost and more POOWEEERR!

They are made to withstand 250hp EACH (= x6 = 1500hp), so I doubt they'll be the first thing to brake...

Finally got my conrods, these should hold the power/torque I'm after...! And guess which one is the original... :D

What are you going to use to control the fuelling (e.g. "ecu-wise")? If you just change to bigger injectors and do not alter the fuelling maps, your going to end up with sh*te idling, because the injectors will be "open" for the same amount of time but due to larger capasity they inject much more fuel. That leads to the mixture being waaaay too rich when idling. ← ..... yes and the ECU will check the rich mixture over the O2 sensors and will reduce injector opening time to get L1 again. ;) ← ...yes, but while cranking, the ECU doesn't read lambda sensors, but pre-set maps instead. It can read lambda sensors only after they've heated up, which takes some 30-120 seconds. So, while cranking, the ECU keeps the injectors open according to pre-set fuel map. This leading to a situation where std opening duration is too long for bigger injetors, resulting flooded engine. And because of that, chances are that the engine won't start at all...

What are you going to use to control the fuelling (e.g. "ecu-wise")? If you just change to bigger injectors and do not alter the fuelling maps, your going to end up with sh*te idling, because the injectors will be "open" for the same amount of time but due to larger capasity they inject much more fuel. That leads to the mixture being waaaay too rich when idling.

Any garage should be able to do it for you. Takes about 15-30 mins, and a little less if you've already stripped the original plastic intake thingy off from the top of the engine.

I say this again. In Dyno Dynamics' dyno iiit dooooeesn'ttt maaaattteeeeer, as the dyno measures the drive line power losses specific to used gear. Your point here is? ^^That's exactly what I got. With only 5 cyls. I agree on that. But as I don't have even the original lsd, I've not wanted to go to the strip, as the launch from stand still is somewhat painful... I've done 400m only once, and then my 60feet time was a very poor ~2.5sec because of the wheelspin and the rear end "bouncing". 1/4mile time was ~14.5sec. Looky HERE for my last dyno slip, for which I asked to do few runs also on 5th gear! The green line is for comparison, and from the first time I was there, when my engine still ran on all 6 cyls... (you can see the boost rise much more earlier) All three other lines are from last time, and were done on 5th gear with only 5 cyls running (which I didn't know back then, it came clear just later). The differences between those three other lines are because we tried different A/F mixtures and ignition timings. SO: on Dyno Dynamics' the gear used to do the run doesn't matter.

I had a chat with my dyno guy about this, and he said that on Dyno Dynamics' dyno it doesn't matter on which gear the dynoing is done, beause it is not a conventional inertia dyno. Dyno Dynamics calulates the power loss individually on every gear, and compensates accordingly. Last time I was on dyno (5 cyls) we did a few runs on 5th for a comparison, and the result was about +/- 2 bhp vs. the run on 4th. So it doesn't matter on whih gear the dynoing is done on the Dyno Dynamics' rolling road. Let me check if I can find the result receipt from that run, and I'll post it for you to see... It's not always blak and white, you see...

I tested mine and the result was: Cyl 1) ~4 Bar Cyl 2) ~12.5 Bar Cyl 3) ~12.5 Bar Cyl 4) ~12.5 Bar Cyl 5) ~12.5 Bar Cyl 6) ~12.5 Bar I don't remember the actual readings, but all the others except Cyl 1, were over 12 Bar. I have a supposed piston ring failure in Cyl 1. I haven't opened the engine yet, so I can't be 100% sure of true nature of the failure. But what I do know, is that the leak is from the chamber to the "downstairs", not "upstairs". The car won't idle normally unless you don't let the rpm fall below ~1500rpm. But during cruising it's ok. I had noticed the had idle before, but I thought it was due to bad spark plugs or coil pack, or smth, so I didn't know it only ran 5 cyls when I went to the dyno last time... So we did the dyno runs with only 5 cyls, and thus the engine being only "1,65 Litre"... I was a little confused about the lower output compared to my previous dyno run, but after I found out that it did run only on 5 cyls, the figures seemed quite impressive, after all: ~260hp / 320Nm!!!!! ;)

Anyone familiar with the V160 gearbox? Our IS200 has the 6spd Getrag J160 M/T. I think that V160, in turn, is from Supra Mk IV, and it's said to be in-destructible... Anyone knows the differences between those two gearboxes? Is it possible to make the V160 to fit IS200? I know that the blocks are totally different in those two cars (1G vs. 2JZ), but this was just a thought if anyone has tried it... And yes, I also know that those Supra M/T 'boxes are extremely difficult to source...

Hmmm... Strange... Maybe they've changed the law, then...? But 280hp has always been the OFFICIAL power output. One doesn't have be a rocket scientist to figure out that it might not be true... If you look at the JDM Mitsu Lancer Evo's spec's, it has "officially" had 280hp for about... eerm... since day one! Only the torque has got better... That's right, because they don't have the laws to restrict the power output...

explain that one again? ← I think that he means that speed limiter (max. 180km/h) the JDM cars must have according to Japanese laws. That's why almost every japanese aftermarket ECU's have built in "speed limiter cutters". JDM cars are also not allowed to have more power than 280hp. ---> 'Jap Spec' Supra IV =280hp 'Euro Spec' Supra IV = ~330hp

Looking VEEERY nice indeed, congratulations! :) OT: @ad77 What make it that strut bar of yours? I have wondered if I could fit one still even I have the turbos installed. Could you do me a favor, and measure the distance between the top of the throttle body and the bottom of the strut bar? I'd appreciate it, thanks! Cheers, Sami

You can control the detonation with these "tools": - retarding ignition (programmable ECU needed) - adding extra fuel to cool down the engine (programmable ECU needed, AND IS200's fuel system is already maxxing out) - lowering the intake temp (I/C, or BIGGER I/C needed) - lowering the intake temp with water spray (something to control the spray needed) - lowering compression ratio (low compression pistons AND/OR thicker head gasket)

Same as above ← As the compression ratio is lowered with thicker gasket, it does it's share in lowering also the possibility of detonation, an engines enemy. And on the other hand, lowering the compression ratio allows also to raise the boost = more power! :) I think that with TTE S/C you cannot achieve such a power figures that it would be the power which destroys the internals (even with upgraded pulley), it's the detonation that killed my internals too (piston rings to be precise). Hope this helps.

Thanks Dave, I appreciate it, but as the HKS gasket is for -GTE and not -FE, we couldn't be 101% sure that it would fit, and if the water and oil canals are identical. Then it wouldn't be much use, even if it was thick enough... The std gasket is ~0.6mm, so in that sense the 1.6mm HKS would do it, but until someone confirms it fits 101% to 1G-FE, I'm not ready to order.

Hello everyone! As I'm currently having my engine rebuilt with stronger internals, I've have to overcome some obstacles along the way. One of them being suitable head gasket. Std head gasket being metal, it would otherwise be good as it is, but for t/c and s/c it would be a good idea to lower the compression ratio. As there is no thicker "tuning" gasket available for the 1G-FE, I just have to get one made for me. It's going to be professionally made, laser-cut, full metal gasket like the standard, only thicker. Now that we know the displacement, bore, stroke and std compression ratio, we can calculate the needed extra thickness for the gasket. Adding 1mm to the head gasket lowers the compression ratio from std 10:1 to 9:1, which suits much better for forced induction. In any case I'm going to have one or to made for me, but would anybody else be interested as well? The price would be around 200€/pc, most likely even less. Show your possible interest in this thread, or PM me, so I know how many to order. p.s. I do not want to step on anybodys toes, just trying to help fellow clubmen. Cheers, Sami

ScifiPaul has an Auto, so he doesn't have a "6th"...

Do you still have the original size tires (215/45-17)? If you have smaller diameter wheels, the car/speedo thinks it's going faster than it is... Speedos are usually optimistic "by nature", cause are allowed to show more than you are doing, but NOT less. I've changed the tyre size to 225/35-19 and as it has a slightly (15mm) bigger diameter than the original size, my speedo now shows _exactly_ correct speed. I've checked this against my gps.

But we still don't know where it is located...

Thanks Dave, I knew I could rely on you (to get a rapid answer, or, to get an anwer at all... ;))! :) If it's not a state secret, could you PM me where are you getting your pistons done? As we might just do a "mini-goup-buy"... I'm going to have my rods done here locally. A guy who has done them for race cars for over a decade, so he prolly knows what he's doing... Now that I've seen the IS200 std rod, I understand why it's said to be the weakest link in 1G-FE. THEY'RE THIN AS A MATCH!!!?!

This is sort of a "deep" question... I'm interested to know whether the 1G-FE's cylinder surfaces have some kind of coating, or not? I'm about to order custom forged pistons (now that I have a model, thanks Daz ;)), and to decide whether to order the pistons with std measurements or 0.5 over-size, it's cruacial to know will I be able to bore the block if needed. If there's a coating, it wouldn't be a good idea to bore the block... Hopefully someone has any info on this. Cheers, Sami

You mean the A-pillar cover? A new part is about 100€ (~£60) in my local Lexus retailer here in Finland. It might be a good idea to give a call to _your_ local Lex shop...

I'm currently having a misfire problem, and because of that I've tried to find out what causes it. Engine/cylinder misfires when it does not have enough compression for the air/fuel mixture to ignite. Causes can be at least the following (among others): 1) faulty spark plug 2) spark plug too loose (cpmpression "escapes" through the threads) 3) spark plug too tight (ALWAYS use torque wrench(?), 17Nm) 4) leaking valve (crust on valve, doesn't close properly) 5) jammed or crusted piston ring 6) damaged piston (due knoking) 7) faulty coil pack 8) faulty ecu I suggest that you take compression test, as someone suggested. Compression should be ~12bar/cylinder if everything is in order. Mine cyl 1 had only 2 bar, so it's pretty f%¤d up... :tsktsk: But whatta heck, now it's time to put in some forged internals, and then... more BOOOOOOST!!!

Anyone got a spare std piston and std rod to sell (for a reasonable price), to use as a model for custom forged ones for turbo use? I'm not so picky about their condition, as long as they can be used as model. I'm going to order the pistons from JE, and have the rods made here at a local company. Any help would be appreciated, as I wouldn't want to order a brand new ones, as I don't have any other use for them afterwards... Thanks. Cheers, Sami