SpOcK

Every run was started on 2nd gear, cause Dyno Dynamics' dyno has very light "rolls" (compared to the conventional inertia dynos) until the load is added artificially. So no use for 1st gear. So that means that the runs were made on 4th until the rev limiter. Just remember to disingage the trc control when you go to the dyno!!

OK, then... Have you removed the std ecu completely, or do you run the fcon as a piggy-back? I think in either case, you needed a "little" of custom wiring, right? Can those pistons be found from a JE "catalog", or where they made to order? Price tag on pistons and rods alltogether?

And your output is...? I've thought about the internals. Maybe 1G-GTE internals, or JE, or didn't Pro-Lex also have ones? And something to lower the compression. And then... MORE BOOOOOST!! I'm not sure how muh boost the plastic intake manifold can take, though...

Thank you for your kind words, Gentlemen! I think I'm going to have to skip that, sorry. See, I'm from Finland. Pretty long drive... :yack: That maximum figure run was done at .7, but now I'm running just a little less. Pretty much everything is stock. Std internals, std fuel pump and rail, fpr, injectors... Only two turbos, eManage and 1 sub-injector. I'm planning maybe upgrading to Autronic stand-alone ecu. Here's also a VIDEO. I didn't catch the max output run, as at the time I was in the car with the laptop... And sorry for the slowish download

Finally, here it is. Enjoy... The graph translates into max power of 287bhp and torque of 360Nm. Let me know what you think...

Yes I know that you have a wide band lambda, but I meant your workshop's lambda. You said that you used that as a reference, right? Mine's mounted right after the first joint in the exhaust piping, I guess that makes then about 50cm before the middle cat. It shouldn't be of the temperature being too low, because the lambda sensor that we use has a build in heating element. Of course it's always better to install the sensor as close to the engine as possible.

It only gets to .7 under very heavy acceleration, and stays up there propably only few fractions of a second. But at least until now everything seems to be ok...

@RoadRash Sorry that my reply took so long, but I've been quite busy lately... I checked my AEM, and it seems work all right all the time. So no "disappearing"... Of course when the mixture gets too lean or too rich, and the value is "off the scale", then the led needle falls off from either side of the gauge. And then in the middle of the gauge it reads " - - - ". Mine only leans out on very gentle acceleration, and it stays on the rich side during heavy acceleration. But it still stays on the scale and AEM shows the value all the time. Are you sure that you can trust on your workshops lambda? And narrow band lambdas aren't too reliable in the first place... Any possibility that we could mail our eManage setting files to each other to compare and try...? Hope this was of any help.

Sorry I haven't got you back earlier. I just moved, so I had to manage few days without an internet connection. I got it installed back just today... I will look into what you asked tomorrow and post then, but I don't think that my lambda "disappears"... And yes, I WAS out playing with my TT... :D I can't seem to be able make the e-01's boost "auto-tune" to work, but with manually adjusting I got the "hi boost" setting to 0.7bar. And it PUUUUUUULLS!!!

Thanks! :) I'm more than happy! Still have to get her properly tuned on a rolling road, though...

So, do you already have all the bells and whistles ready for installation?

Where's Marcus gone? How's his project atmo?

It's steel. But now I have the power to fly the weight... :P :winky:

I have a sub-injector (1000cc) already, but it's not wired yet. I'm already doing quite good on the fuel department, so I'll first wire the sub-injector, and see how it's going then. If I still then run into problems, THEN it's time to upgrade the fuel system. I have to set something straight here. I didn't mean to lift my own tail in the first place, so sorry if I gave you that impression. I did NOT do it by myself. A friend of mine did (or him and his buddy together). I was in the Caribbean heat while all the magic of the "turbo'ing" happened... I guess it took a little over a week for them to complete it. And yes, EVERYTHING is custom work. I have done a part of the routing and fitting of the turbo pipes and I/C (I used partly the same piping and I/C already with the compressor), all the electrical stuff (eManage, e-01, EGT gauge, etc...) and up to now - also the eManage tuning. I used some second-hand/used parts here and there, but my friend said that similar project with all new parts would cost around 10k-12k € if done again... Just in case someone's interested... :P

It's done at last! Here's some piccies: I guess that at least some of you suggested that it would be a hard nut to crack, but... Here it is! I haven't got it dyno'ed so I don't have any figures yet, but I can assure you that it PULLS! I run Greddy eManage and e-01, but the boost control solenoid is not wired/implemented yet, so I have no way of controlling boost but the turbos' internal wastegates' "clocks" set to about 0.4bar. I also still run stock fuel system (f/pump, fpr, injectors), but I haven't run into any serious problems. My only slight problem so far is when mildly accelerating, then it leans out a little. But any heavier acceletation brings lambda reading to healthy ~12.5-13.5. Until now I have only tuned the eManage by myself on the road (so no professional tuner and no rolling road) on the grounds of AEM wide band lambda and the pressure sensor voltage reading, so there's still much more potential to be released... Compared to previously having had the S/C, I'd say I at least have 220hp already. In the last picture there's an added sub-injector, which isn't wired yet. Please let me know what you think!

Where there to find them...? :duh:

This might be of an interest to someone thinking whether to go this route... B) Just got my Profec e-01 installed. I did it myself, and it took about an 1.5 hours total. Pretty straight forward operation, really. The hardest part was to get the wiring harnesses routed through the firewall... Four harnesses in total. One for the boost control solenoid, one for the boost sensor, one from the eManage (I've installed it earlier in engine compartment) to the e-01 to tell the boost reading to eManage, and one USB A-B in between the eManage and e-01 to allow to tune the eManage from the e-01 without a laptop. The rest was childs play, just put the screen on top of the dash, and tuck the center unit and the remaining cables under the dash... This gadget is beautiful, and it can do tons of tricks!!! You can put any three signals on the display, and you also have a choice of four different formats of display (I prefer the one with an ("analog boost gauge"). And in addition of displaying the values on the screen, you can also log and play back up to 3(!) hours of any data channel you choose! I also connected my AEM UEGO output signal to the e-01, so now I can display (and log) also A/F on the screen. Neat! And that's a great help when tuning on the rolling road. e-01 has settable warnings for almost any signal you choose, e.g. mixture too lean, too much boost, speed warning, over revving, etc, etc. I wont be having my turbos installed until Feb, so I don't know how it behaves as a boost controller , but so far it's been just brilliant, and is very fun to play with. I highly recommed it over the usual Apex'i stuff... :winky: Here are the pics: Just a general view. Here's another. Here's a picture of the screen with an "analog gauge" view. And here's the cordless Remote Switching System to control the "Over Take Boost" from the steering wheel, i.e. to raise the boost for a set amount of time for extra grunt when you need it... :D p.s. the cable running on top of the dash is for the remote seen on the left of the screen. And sorry for the picture quality, they were taken with a cell-phone...

Ok, roger that, but how will I get a reliable proof about this to satisfy my MOT inspector...???

I specificly asked also this, and the Toyota Technical Support Representative absolutely denied that it's possible that Toyota had two same products (for different cars/models) under two different part numbers. So if the number is different, the part is also different. At least an eeny-weeny tiny bit.

So what I should do, is to get a hold of, let's say, EBC brakes catalog to see whether they list the same parts for both IS200 ja IS300? Right?

The wheels are TSW PinDrive with a race style center lock. I have those in 19"...

Does anyone have info on this? I've let myself to believe, that since year model 2001 the IS200 brakes are the same as IS300's. IS200's before 2001 were with smaller (front) disks. As I'm now going for forced induction (twin turbo the 1G-FE), I need this info to pass the MOT. Here in Finland we have a regulation that says that one can up the power output +20% at maximum compared to the most powerful engine with-in the same car model line (ie. IS200 and IS300 belong to the same model line, they just have different displacement). But then one must be able to prove that the car that is to be "tuned", and the car which is to be used as a comparison, have equally efective brakes, etc. So to be able to use the IS300 as a comparison, I should be able to prove this. I already asked my dealer to make a comparison of IS200 and IS300 brake part numbers (discs, pads, calipers, etc) whether they match. They didn't match... I also called my local Toyota Technical Support Line, and they said that they have made principal desicion ages ago NOT to give any written statements of this kind for the "tuners"... But I'm still pretty confident that they should be the same, am I right, or am I right? :duh: So what am I to do...?

At least HERE it says that the 1G-GTE internals are forged. But then again, I could also try to source the manifolds as well...

I already asked this in the other thread, but I wondered if there's anyone with a BULLETPROOF knowledge about this... So my question would it be a bolt-on job to put 1G-GTE internals (pistons and rods) into 1G-FE? Would they fit straight up, and which engines piston rings should I use? What would the resulting compression ratio be? And would then the new pistons and rods limit the useable boost, or is the std crank weak as well? Any idea of the boost I could then use? Someone may tell me that those parts are impossible to get, but I'm quite confident that I can source those through my connections in Nippon... Matt? Mark? Colin? Anyone? Cheers, Sami

Do you have a part# or something more detailed info about the Walbro pump? If I understood right from the other threads, the Walbro pump needs external fuel pressure regulator, is that correct? Does that ext fpr still go into the tank (as the std fpr does), or under the bonnet? Which regulator are you going to use? I have now the MKIII Supra 440cc injectors (not yet installed). What does the USA fuel upgrade thingy include in whole? And the cost? I might be interested as well... I'm still going to try first, only with the bigger injectors and using the eManage's boost limiter cut -feature.