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ScottC

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  • First Name
    Scott
  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    LS 430
  • Year of Lexus
    2005
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Gloucestershire
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. It was the distribution valve under the car that I changed, rather than the strut.
  2. Thank you for the advice. I bought the generic tool set from Ebay and used the 1/4" sized item. The end of the tool which seperates the retaining clips/arms needed filing to an angle as per the toyota tool and it worked perfectly. Back on the road now! Scott
  3. Hi I am replacing the air suspension valve 48096-50040 which directs air to the 2 rear shock absorbers. How do I disconnect the air lines, I can squeeze the 2 arms of the nylon retainer together to dissengage this from the valve body.....is it then a case of just pulling the line out. There is some resistance to pulling on the line and I don't want to damage anything. However it has probably been untouched since 2005 so perhaps it is just a bit stiff. Any advice please? ScottC
  4. Ground back until I reached fresh metal. Looks like this. Then hammerite and when that has dried some waxoyl before the cover goes back on. The opposite of concourse but it has stopped the rust.
  5. Maybe of interest. Takes about 20 minutes. You need a craft knife to cut through the double sided pads. Door is actually sound but rust has formed where the skin has been pierced for the trim clip.
  6. Hi I want to remove the plastic panel at the bottom of the door so I can treat the rust bubbles on the door. It isn't at all obvious to me how it comes off. Any advice gratefully received. ScottC
  7. Hi The subframe is beyond repair and needs to be replaced. Lexus don't sell them any more so looking for a good second hand one now. ScottC
  8. Hi I had the car on wheel ramps in the late autumn and I scraped all the rust off the subframe and painted the inner sills (another advisory) where they aren't protected under plastic trims. Unfortunately I started too late in the year and it got dark and wet and cold(working outside). The subframe was quite rusty and a lot of loose rust came away but I didn't spot any holes in it, I fear that it has been deemed compromised by the loss of metal to rust. I have waxoyl and underseal to go on it (if it can be saved) when the weather improves. ScottC
  9. Hi Car failed it's MOT today due to corrosion of the rear subframe. Has anyone else experienced this and what is the likely damage. My garage uses an independent tester and they were going to put the car up on their ramps when they got it back and see what needed doing and get back to me, it will be tomorrow now. Last year it was just an advisory and the car hasn't been used at all since lockdown last March so I can't imagine much could have happened in the last year. I think what I am really worried about is that the whole subframe has been condemned and will have to be replaced, best outcome will be it can be repaired in situ. ScottC
  10. Well the sensor spacers will fool the electronics into thinking the cats are working okay, so no fault light on the dashboard. However the car still has to pass the emission test at the MOT centre☹️ I would check the Y pipe for holes. ScottC
  11. Hi I recently had a hole welded up on my 2005 LS430. The hole was in the Y connector near the gearbox. I am now getting the VSC light coming on after a short distance. ODB reader says Catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1. Which side is bank 1, is it the drivers side? Any ideas? ScottC
  12. Hi I have 4 Michelin Primacy 4 tyres on my2005 LS430. Fitted about 6 months ago, £150.00 each. These replaced 4 Primacy 3 tyres which I was extremely pleased with, Michelin claim the Primacy 4 is even better than the Primacy 3 so it was a no brainer for me. After 4,000 miles I cannot recommend them enough. ScottC
  13. Good luck. I have done both of mine, 1 came out easily, the other side was stuck solid and took a bit of patience. ScottC
  14. Hi I replaced both of mine with Blueprint items, about £160.00 a side in 2014. It was a while ago but I remember that I found a manufacturing code on them which indicated they were OEM. 40,000 miles later they are fine. 1 was worn, the same symptoms as you describe. Frustratingly the other side was fine, the remaining noise that I was trying to eliminate was from the tyres - Dunlops sports. A change to Michelin tyres solved that. ScottC
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