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Cotswold Pete

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Cotswold Pete last won the day on January 11

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About Cotswold Pete

  • Rank
    Club Post Guru

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Pete
  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    LS 400 Model MK IV
  • Year of Lexus
    2000
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Gloucestershire
  • Interests
    Travel
    Road Trips
    Computers & Electronics
    Arts & Crafts

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  1. Two exhaust fails in last few years, has that been bodged to get it through. I would also be thinking at 121,000 other parts of running gear are going to be getting tired but worth a look if anyone near Bridgnorth. Drivers sear looks a bit ropey, worse than mine is at 210,000
  2. Gordon Bennet, I think I would have wanted full leathers and a helmet to use that for shopping. Mind you, your magnums would not have time to melt on the way back from Morrisons.
  3. Anything on a smart motorway makes me twitchy, would be ruddy nervous if I knew car was going to konk out. Last time I broke down was when a part of the M5 was not smart, now it is smart and I have had many a time when at 50mph, I have had artics and cars (and even the highways agencies bodkins) pull out making me have to jam on the anchors, and this is when the signs are saying 'slow down', so would hate to coma across a breakdown not yet discoverd. Who ever decided they were a good idea should be made to sit in a Fiat 500 for a half an hour waiting to be rescued.
  4. I cannot see how this is not repairable by a exhaust specialist. No harm in getting one of them to have a look, just search for specialists who can do bespoke tuned exhausts, they will (usually) know all there is about retro-fits in stainless to just about anything. I would add though that the chaps who did mine reckoned my exhaust was not stainless (when they put a stainless Y-piece in), but I think they must have thought it was not the sort of stainless they would use if they did a full rebuild. At 209K, engine and exhaust as sweet as a nut.
  5. Possibly tyre separation, where one of the layers comes apart for a short section. Usually manifests itself as like driving on some ice at low speeds, and produces odd noises at higher speeds. Only happened to me once, and turned out to be a new tyre gone rogue after a thousand miles.
  6. Could it be a wheel balancing weight just clipping the calipers, though usually only happens after a new tyre fitted and it is an apprentice who does not know clearance on LS is pretty tight.
  7. Was there a time when the government believed that oil burners were the saviours of the planet, so tax was very low. I do recall Ford back in the mid 80's saying lean burn petrol would be better than diesel, but one can assume that the experts were ignored (maybe Michael Gove was punting his beliefs that experts are dumb even back then???)
  8. Well never thought of Delphi, they seem to have a choice and prices look good, not sure why any link is better than another, but maybe I will give them a call Links on Delphi site
  9. I need new drop links on rear (for sure) and mat as well do the fronts. Having looked on Ebay I can see otpions, and on Amayama. Question - Has anyone used ebay ( Rear Links ) for example, as my research indicated this part is used on some Kia makes as well as Toyota. The price from Japan is not that bad, though I assume a drop link is not taking a huge load, so even if the bushes are not as good as original they will last a good few years. Any thoughts or experience with these on ebay most welcome.
  10. The assumption seems to be that if you can afford a luxury car, you can pay a luxury tax (to drive on roads that have not seen the VED spent on them). The very reason why I went for a 400 Mk4 as the VED is okay to live with. At the time I could have got bought a 430 or 460, but it was VED that was part of the equation. Having worked around most of Europe I have never found anyone who is happy with either the yearly fee or the new registration fee, but it does seem most other countries spent these taxes making the roads look like roads not tank training grounds. Trucks do not pa
  11. Only thought is that there is a slight air gap when the window is up at full closure, and this is the right size gap to create a certain frequency of noise. I would maybe just get some masking tape over the seals, and drive to see if it goes. Then if it goes, maybe just peel off parts of the masking tape until the noise comes back, might indicate where the seal to glass fit is playing up. As the seals harden over time they do sometimes have little gaps that can whistle (had this on old Volvo - but not on any LS - so far)
  12. I would add from lockdown experience of having let the battery run down four times that the Engine Managment ECU does take a while to stabilise. What I mean is that for the first few hours of driving the car behaves like the ECU is having capacitor failure (having had a Mk3 which did have ECU on its way out), and I was getting near stalling. But after a few decent runs the whole thing seems to settle down. It is now 3 months since I did a battery-out and full recharge, and all systems running like a dream in terms of RPM. Of course it could be other factors that cause the old l
  13. Was watching Car SOS the other day when restoring a Hillman Imp (mate had one once, had the clutch come flying through the back seat - end of car. Anyway they said those cars were designed to last 7 years or so before they fell apart, good job that is not the case these days. Amazing that they got Ship Builders build the Minx, be a bit like having a Lexus built by Microsoft techs who knew how to fix a toaster!!.
  14. Looks like a great car, I loved my Mk3, and I sort of agree about the satnav in Mk4, never use it and prefer the LCD on the previous marques. The Mk3 has much better fog lights, not quite such good headlights, and of course the Mk4 has VSC, and it was lack of VSC that made me stove my Mk3 into a wall. Hit some oil at 20mph about to overtake a truck, and the Mk3 was trying to spin itself under an artic, so wall seemed a bit safer to me!!! If that had not happened maybe I would still have my Mk3, though it would not be hitting 300,000 and no doubt needing another round of work to the Contr
  15. Green light is usually saying that the battery when not under load appears to be fine, but when you start to pull a current if some of cells start to 'collapse' then the battery is not delivering full voltage. I have had this happen many a time and taking battery to local place they can see static the battery okay, but under any load it goes AWOL, and with LS it is needing a load of oomph to get that starter motor going. I am wondering if all the clicking that one hears are relays in the ECU(s) complaining at the same time???
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