iains

I tried to get a keyring when I picked up my IS300 - Lexus Hatfield did not have one and were apparently not going to get any in the near future.

My IS300 2,500 miles on the clock and 11 weeks old has corrosion on two of the wheels..... Looks like new ones again!

Made the same change myself 6 weeks ago. After 1200 miles the car is starting to bed down nicely, and thankfully if doing more than 21 mpg! Had the Lexus voice control phone put in 2 weeks ago and it is very cool, as it mutes the radio and you have a little set of buttons to control it. Apart from that, going very nicely thankyou.

anyone know how much more than the IS200 /300 it will cost?

Okay - general feedback is boot light is bad. Now I need to fit two units to improve matters. Any ideas where I can get them from???

I fancy converting the main beams to HID on my IS300 - anyone else done this?

This is just about the only fault I can find with the IS. Why oh why are the interior lights so crap. 1. Cabin light - next to useless - why does the one at the front come on as well when you unlock - would make things a lot easier. 2. Boot Light - This is next to useless - a pathetic little bulb in a little cone shaped thing - compared to my last Bimmer which had 4 (yes, 4) boot lights, one each side and one on each inside of the lid so you could see what you were putting stuff down onto. 3. Lower compartment lights - same as point 1 above - I had these on the Bimmer and miss them - you can see where you are putting your feet! I suppose I could add some / sort this out. Anyone else done this, or am I just a wierd light fetishist??? Iain

Corner Shot Side Shot Interior Photo

Sorry everyone, pictures will be up later - it was dark when I collected it and I spent all evening playing with the sat nav......

4 hours to go - :D

You are a bad man sir....but looking at my bank balance (or the lack of it!) I shall not thinking about anything else till next year. I'm actually really sad to see the IS200 go - with only 8400 miles on the clock the engine is just starting to loosen up nicely. But then again, 3.0 is better than 2.0 ;)

To be honest mate, I have not even thought about tinkering yet. And I am a complete numpty with these things. Not sure what else I could want to add....but then again. Also slightly scared about screwing up the warranty so some advice would be welcomed!!!

Well the Z4 went on Saturday and the IS200 next weekend. The IS300 has already arrived at the dealer - Montrose blue with black leather. The parking sensors and the Lexus bluetooth phone are being fitted tomorrow and I pick it up on Thur / Fri. I'll post some pick when it arrives. BTW - had a go in the demonstrator - I simply cannot believe the difference. Smoother, quicker (obviously) and quieter, if you can believe it. Managed to give a Lotus Elise a surprise out of the roundabout as we passed 100......;)

Fair enough - I stand corrected. I'm still very surprised by this - knowing how sensitive computers are to voltage surge I can appreciate this, but I still query the fact that the ECU should have (or not as the case may be) sufficient isolation built in, but I guess it's a question of cost. Also, as I recall, the owners manual makes no reference to this issue?

A cheaper way is to get yourself a spare battery from Costco (bosch or the like) and some leads. I have to say that this whole thread confuses me a little. I've jump started loads of cars in my time, never had a problem and would be very surprised if I had to. All you are effectively doing are increasing the cell composition of the battery and therefore theortical ampage of the battery (ie: bigger battery!) when you provide a boost / jump. The damage you are talking about would occur to either cars alternator due to: 1. The boosting car - battery has increased load - possible alternator damage 2. Flat car - alternator piling current into flat battery = working hard. In the either case surely the same applies when the alternator is under hard load ie:cold winer morning - deminser, heated seats, lights and radio playing from cold start?? Therefore assuming you don't try am jump something out of your league (so as to speak) then you should be okay. I think you would have to be very very unlucky to fry anything either car (assuming they were or relative cranking amp ratings). As for the voltage jump - I would think the battery would absorb the majority of that as "charge" - you need more than 12v to charge and 12v battery. Also, if the voltage spike was so bad, the fuses would go pop (unlikely). I caveat this as I am not an electical engineer and so may be talking absolute rubbish....