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BigBoomer last won the day on December 15 2018

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About BigBoomer

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  1. It depends on how they fail. If one LED or one row of LEDs fail, then you are still OK, but will get an MOT advisory. If an entire cluster fails, then yes it's an MOT failure. Someone on the US site fixed his but it's quite an involved job.
  2. Thanks, I've never used one before as I'm more of a driver than a polisher. I'll find some youtube vids and see what needs to be done.
  3. What would be my best bet for dealing with a cloudy bonnet on my 2004? It's not bad yet, but definitely getting worse. Rest of paintwork is good except for rust patches on passenger door.
  4. Welcome to LS ownership Sumeet. Hopefully that work will be all it will need for the foreseeable future. These cars do seem to have a few niggling problems, but nothing like the 7Series/A8 and nowhere near the S-Class or the Phaeton. I'm 25k miles and 19 months into my LS430 ownership, and now that my niggles are mostly resolved (need to fit a front parking sensor and replace the rear passenger door lock) I am loving the reliability, smoothness and power.
  5. If fuel economy matters that much to you, why did you buy a 2 ton 4.0 litre V8? Not having a go, just interested. 😎 Fuel economy is lowest on my list of considerations when it comes to tyres. I use Avon ZZ5s as they give A rated wet grip and are rated at 70dB so are amongst the grippiest and quietest tyres out there. Fuel economy is E but then grippy tyres are going to have more rolling resistance. The difference between A and G is 20% so in theory an A rated tyre will give 20% extra mileage over a G rated tyre (D is not used). That equates to 30Mpg on an A-rated tyre if you get 25Mpg on the G-rated tyre. However, I can't find an A-rated tyre in the 245/45-18 size so I'm stuck with B-rated at best and they are only 8% (2Mpg) better than the E-rated. The best I can find w.r.t. the ratings are the Dunlop Sport Maxx RT2 but they are £15 per corner more than my ZZ5s. You will make far more of a difference to fuel economy just by driving smoothly and never planting your right foot. But what's the fun in that? 😁
  6. Too many bloody SUVs mate. Most of their drivers have NO IDEA how wide/long they are. 🤬
  7. Sounds like the level sensor at the rear left needs to be repaired/replaced.
  8. Get well soon. Plenty of time left to unleash that beast 😁
  9. Has anyone on here had the ATF changed on their Facelift 430s? Since we no longer have a dipstick, it seems to be a royal PITA job. Perhaps get a garage to do it, but then need to find someone who'll do it right. Currently at 117k miles and rising.
  10. Welcome to 430 ownership. 😁 The window tinting and the gold emblems are just the former owners taste, not standard fitment. You can get the tint removed if you don't like it. Yes, it's Park Assist. You can download the EU version of the owners manual to see what it says in English (maybe even Suomi). I've never used it as the mirrors and camera are good and the beeping sensors useful for very close parking.
  11. Just fixed my squeeky armrest/centre console with instructions from the US site.
  12. Jack up the front, use a stethoscope on the back of the hub and spin the wheel. You will soon know if the bearing is grumbling. If neither of the fronts is the culprit, next check the rear. Don't forget to put the gearbox in Neutral before testing the rear. Yes, the rear could be the CV joints or the hub bearings. Mine had a drone on some surfaces that had gotten worse as the weather got hotter. I then let some air out of the tyres and the drone went away. Now running 30psi all round and it's smoother and quieter than 33psi (2004, 18" wheels, 245/45-ZR18).
  13. Ethanol in fuel means that it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and holds it in the fuel. Over time that settles to the bottom of the tank as petrol is lighter than water. The water then causes rust in the tank leading to clogged filters, damaged pumps, clogged injectors and poor running, and will eventually lead to leaks in mild steel tanks. The Ethanol itself can lead to problems with rubber seals on some pre-80s vehicles, but almost all made since 1980 can handle Ethanol. If a car or motorcycle has been designed with Ethanol in mind, then they use a different kind of rubber for the seals, and the top manufacturers line their fuel tanks with a petrol/ethanol/water resistant coating or make them from stainless steel. Because of crash testing, many car fuel tanks now have deformable liners to prevent leaks in the event of the tank taking damage. My 1989 Kawasaki GTR1000 has handled Ethanol in the fuel for nearly 200,000 miles. Yes, the first fuel tank sprung a rust leak after 120k miles, but otherwise the carbs are as they came from the factory apart from a couple of cleans and new carb-airbox rubbers as the originals went rock hard. I really don't think you need to worry about Ethanol in petrol for your LS400/430/460/600s. Any rust in the tank will show up in the fuel filter pretty quick and the rest of the system was designed to handle it. 😉