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About Delphius1

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  1. The expansion tank on the RX is not pressurised. When the coolant heats up and expands, it pushes past a spring-loaded valve in the radiator cap and fills the expansion tank. When the coolant cools and contracts, a vacuum is creates and the coolant in the expansion tank is sucked past a second valve in the radiator cap to maintain the coolant level. If the return valve is stuck, or the small bore pipe from the expansion tank to the radiator neck is blogged, the coolant can't return to the radiator. The vacuum caused by the contracting coolant causes the hoses to collapse. The good news is you have no leaks in the coolant system, but it does need seeing to as it will affect coolant flow at colder engine temperatures. An aftermarket radiator cap shouldn't break the bank and neither should checking the expansion tank hose for a blockage.
  2. Hi, The 400h has a CVT gearbox on it. Not the best for towing and the gearbox can be easily damaged by hard towing use. The best gearbox for heavy towing is either a manual or an auto with a torque convertor. The CVT, DSG and similar modern automatics tend to not cope well with heavy towing use. For instance slowly reversing a big caravan up an incline, like you would manoeuvring a caravan in reverse up onto a drive. It can be hard on a manual clutch, let alone the modern semi-auto boxes (but at least on a manual you instinctively know when you're abusing the clutch and give it a rest... DGS gearboxes don't. The wet clutch DSG boxes fare a bit better because the oil tends to have a cooling effect, but the dry clutch DSG boxes have a habit of failing to pull the car on it's own, let alone a heavy trailer. CVT gearboxes can burn out belts and/or drums if pushed too far. A torque convertor box will just sit there spinning fluid around with just a moderate increase in heat. Not knowing exactly how the motors on the 400h integrate mechanically and electrically with the drive train, I'd say walk away. Although it would be handy to plug a techstream in to see how many error codes the transmission has. :-)
  3. Delphius1


    Reminds me of when I had my old ratty Vauxhall Vectra in the snow years ago. A VW 4x4 driver was trying to get up a slight icy/snowy incline using the Jeremy Clarkson method (more power!). He was making no progress on this slight incline and spinning all 4 wheels. In fact he went backwards more than forwards. I got fed up and pulled out around this idiot in my ratty front wheel drive car and drove past with non-spinning wheels gripping the snow and ice. He just looked out of his window dumbfounded... This weather does bring out the more thoughtless and inconsiderate drivers. Mind you, my driving instructor was a bit of a comedian. On my lessons where it had snowed, he used to get me to drive up onto the moors and then tried to find the worst icy hill for me to climb. I generally got up all of them. Those were the days back when we had real snow. 8ft banks either side of the road.
  4. Delphius1

    Parrot ISO

    Looking at all the leads available, I can't see any leads on Amazon or eBay that match the picture of the leads on your car. I just wonder if the available leads are designed to plug in somewhere else? Are those the connections into the back of your Radio? You might have to go to a car audio specialist and they may be able to look up your car's details and get the correct lead. They would have a better idea of which lead you need.
  5. Delphius1

    Parrot ISO

    I think only two of those connectors are used on the Parrot system. Looking at all the pinouts for the RX radio, the signals to the amp and the power are contained in just two connectors. I assume the third connector is for other stuff like the steering wheel controls. Basically all the leads have to do is pass through the signals between the radio and the amp, and break out power to the Parrot system and any signal wires the Parrot system needs access to so it can work. So you have connectors that your original wires connect into, then they plug into the back of the radio. Any signals that need to break out from the wiring go to the ISO connectors which the parrot plugs into. Not having fitted a Parrot system before I'm guessing, but that's how I'd assume it works. The Parrot may tap into the lines to the amp in order to provide audio from the phone through the car speakers instead of using the mute line. But that should be taken care of with the ISO connections. I have a Nokia install on my RX and it has a separate speaker for the phone audio, so it just mutes the audio using the mute line. I've found this video showing install on a Honda. The install on the RX should be similar on the wiring, except you plug the adaptor lead into two connectors on the RX because the front left, front right, rear left and rear right channels are split across the two connectors. So you fit the pass through lead you need to buy for the RX and then plug the Parrot loom into the ISO connections.
  6. My mechanic did it with the engine in situ, jacked up as high as it could go on the upper mounts and the subframe on the last few mm of thread. That gave just enough room to wiggle the lower engine mounts out with a bit of effort so the arm mounting bolts can be undone. Got to love Lexus packaging. NOT! Designed a little better it could have made the job tons easier.
  7. Hi, It's those front suspension arms and bushes... they are an absolute pig to change. Even if you go for replacement arms (the easy option because the bushes need a hefty press to press them in),.... to remove the arm mounts you have to prop the engine up and drop the subframe. I've had polyurethane bushes fitted on my front arms and my mechanic said it was one of the worst jobs he's done. He propped the engine up as far as the engine mounts would allow and then undid the subframe mounting bolts until they were on their last few mm of thread. At that point he could just about remove the side engine mounts which cover the bolts holding the front arm mounts. to the subframe. The discrepancy could be due to one garage knowing you can just about get away with the skin of your teeth by doing what my mechanic did and the other garage going the whole hog and pulling the engine and/or subframe from the car and making an even bigger job of it. i.e. quoting for worst case scenario. Even doing what my mechanic did, it was the best part of a two-day job to get everything into the position he could remove the arms, remove the old bushes from the arms and fit the new ones in and then re-fit the arms. Luckily I got mates rates. :-)
  8. Hi, I'd lubricate the cables, the door handle mechanism and the lock mechanisms. I see it on MX-5s where the cables get a bit dry and start to seize, defeating the central locking actuator. Lubricating the cables and the lock latch mechanism frees things off and you should be back to normal. That lovely lock/unlock indicator on the door handle is a great idea and handy, but it needs to work freely so the lock latch doesn't stop working. It still gets me how different Japanese manufacturers use similar mechanisms in their cars. European cars are all quite different from each other, but Japanese cars tend to use very similar concepts between manufacturers. It makes working on Japanese cars so interesting. I've owned and worked on Supras, Mx-5s, Mitsubishis and now my RX and I still find odd things that are common to more than one car across different makes. It's almost like there's a door lock guy in Japan and they all go to him to design door locks for them, he just does something slightly different for each project. lol.
  9. Delphius1

    Parrot ISO

    In that case you may have to have a word with a car audio specialist to see if they can source the correct lead for you. What lead is it you need? That one on Amazon seemed to have the correct connections to connect the Lexus loom and break out the connections to the Parrot unit.
  10. Delphius1

    Parrot ISO

    Hi, Doing a Google search of "lexus rx300 2004 parrot" threw up a number of options. It looks like the cable is available on eBay and Amazon. For instance this link on Amazon: The compatibility list states RX300/330/430 (2004 onwards) Is this any good for you?
  11. Just before Christmas i came home from two week's holiday to a car with a flat battery and no central locking. Access was a problem as the key had never worked in the door unlocking the car, only locking it. Turning the lock barrel to unlock the door was prevented. So getting at the bonnet release was initially impossible. However, lots of penetrating oil and working the key between lock and unlock eventually got the door lock to work in the unlock position. So it seems the lock barrel can work in the lock position, but be seized in the unlock position, which I've never encountered in a door lock before. Just for info, in case anyone else is in the same position. Penetrating oil and effort can get the door open so you can open the bonnet to charge the battery.
  12. I've been caught out at pedestrian crossings. Once a girl just walked out in front of the car expecting me to stop. My speed meant I didn't see her approach the crossing because of the windscreen pillar. I also didn't see her walk onto the crossing despite the oncoming car and I only saw her at the last moment as she walked in front of the car on my side of the road. Luckily the brakes worked well that day. Of course she carried on crossing oblivious to the 4x4 squirming to a stop just feet from the crossing as she chatted on her phone.
  13. One thing to note is that the timings of the operation after doing the door open-close thing was different on my RX. On the video after the door open/close stuff, the central locking locks/unlocks the doors straight away. On my Rx the timing was more like Lock..2..3..unlock. Then I could press the lock/unlock button on the fob for a second and then within 3-5 seconds press another key on the fob. That was the tricky thing. At first the doors locked and then I pressed the key straight Then I realised, so waited for them to unlock and pressed the lock/unlock buttons on the fob for too long... fail. So, try again. Waited for the door locks, then pressed the lock/unlock buttons for a second and then took too long before I pressed the lock Then finally I waited for the doors to lock..2..3..unlock... then pressed the lock/unlock buttons on the fob for a second and straight away pressed the lock button.. success! As Herbie says above, timing is everything. :-) So the programming goes something like this. (I did it at the speed you can read this text, it didn't work if I took my time like the video): Sit in car with drivers door closed Open drivers door. Key in ignition, key out of ignition, key in ignition, key out of ignition Close drivers door, open drivers door, close drivers door, open drivers door, Key in ignition, key out of ignition, Close drivers door, open drivers door, close drivers door, open drivers door, Key in ignition, close drivers door, turn ignition to on (lights on dash), turn ignition off and remove key Central locking locks doors... wait for doors to unlock, Press lock & unlock buttons on key fob for a second, release, then press lock button Central locking should lock/unlock. Key is now programmed: open drivers door to cancel programming mode.
  14. I used the video below and followed what he did. The techstream bit was straightforward, but doing the door close/open and press the lock/unlock button thing on the keyfob was a bit hit and miss. I had to have a few goes before I got the timing right. The lock unlock cycle of the doors after opening closing the doors was slower than I expected and certainly slower than on the video. Also pressing the lock unlock button and then the lock button on the fob needs to happen I think within 3-5 seconds. Iit seemed I was too slow the first few times. Once I got the timing right, it worked.
  15. I have a bit of an issue giving someone I don't know details of how to get into my car and an address where the car is located overnight. :-) But that's just me.