Delphius1

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About Delphius1

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Mark
  • Lexus Model
    RX300/RX330
  • Year of Lexus
    2004
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Hampshire

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  1. Maybe a list of compatible Toyota parts is something that could work out to be worthwhile. I know I got an LED brake light unit from my local Toyota garage after I'd given them the part number. Saved me a lengthy trip to the Lexus dealer and saved a bit of cash too.
  2. The cat under the car is the second cat in the exhaust stream as the car also has cats in each of the two exhaust manifolds. The oxygen sensors are either side of the first cat(s) and the engine management only monitors the efficiency of that cat. The second cat is just there to mop up emissions and running without it won't affect the engine management. If it's happening on a regular basis and the thieves seem determined enough and have enough time to cut through a steel sheet to get to your cat, maybe get some flanges welded onto what's left of the exhaust. Then you can get a cat and a decat pipe to fit between the flanges so you can easily swap between the two. You can run with the decat normally and if the thieves take a look under the car they will see a decat and leave you alone. You can get generic cats with a flange at each end. All you need is to get one and the flanges to match your exhaust diameter. Then you get someone to weld the flanges to the exhaust on the car to suit the cat and then weld up a decat. Generally speaking, most cars with two cats will pass the emissions at MOT time with just the one cat, but technically you need all the cats in line in the exhaust. Reading the letter of the MOT tests the tester has to look for the existence of the correct number of cats. But if you find an MOT tester that isn't a stickler for the letter of the test and is happy to pass a car that passes emissions.... If you do need the cat fitted for MOT time you can just bolt the cat in for a day, get the car tested and then swap back to a decat pipe for the other 364 days of the year. 😁
  3. My personal opinion is the black wheel is a bit overdone now and I'm not a fan. But they doo hide brake dust quite well until the residue builds up to the thick brown level.
  4. My first trip to London on my own as a teenager (an Early Computer Games Fair) was to Olympia and I was fascinated to walk past the Bristol showrooms. I ended up working in Hammersmith not far away, so passed it regularly. Nice cars, but they always struck me as a bit dated. Always behind the curve style-wise. I think I only ever saw customers in that showroom once. Always made me wonder how they afforded the rent in Kensington if they didn't sell anything.
  5. I do love this video. The guys go driving round the posh parts of London looking for old money cars, expecting old Rollers, Bentleys and the like, maybe the odd Ferrari or something even more rare and exotic. But they keep seeing Lexus after Lexus. Whilst driving..... a Lexus. That to me says a lot.
  6. Random misfires can be hard to pinpoint and may actually be the car working as normal, which just confuses the issue.If the engine management light was illuminated you'll have codes stored in the ECU. The engine is coil on plug, so you'll have 6 coil packs, not just one coil pack. If one misfires, the engine management is intelligent to know which cylinder is misfiring, so you should get a misfire code to a specific cylinder. That's why you mover the coil packs around to see if the misfire moves with a coil pack. But you should get a code for a cylinder misfire on the code reader. However, if you have an issue that trips the traction control into working, then that can give you symptoms like a misfire and won't give you a code because it's the engine management cutting the spark deliberately. Basically if the sensors think a wheel is skidding then it will cut the spark to cut power. A usual culprit for that is changing a single tyre and having a wheel rotate at a different speed, or faulty ABS, VSC or steering sensors.
  7. I'd check either if the bearings at the top of the front strut are seizing or if the suspension bushes have worn and changed the steering geometry. The steering rack itself could be faulty as well. Needs investigation unfortunately.
  8. Steve, It's the same thing. Basically you avoid using a charge current high enough to produce gas in the battery. ANY sealed lead acid battery needs to be charged at a low charge rate to avoid excess gas production. We all know that lead acid batteries produce hydrogen and oxygen as they are charged. The trick with a sealed battery is you charge it slowly enough so that either no gas or very little gas is produced. The hydrogen and oxygen will eventually recombine in the battery case back to water and all is good, the battery isn't damaged. If you overcharge a sealed battery, it starts to produce so much gas the pressure in the case builds up to dangerous levels and to avoid the case splitting from the pressure, the valves in the vents open and allow the gasses to exit the battery case. But that means you've lost that hydrogen and oxygen and it can never recombine in the battery case. You've just lost some electrolyte. If you continue to overcharge the battery, eventually it looses so much electrolyte it starts to fail. A loss of capacity is the result, so you end up effectively with a dead battery. If your battery has removable plugs that you can use to top up the electrolyte then it's not a sealed battery. Sealed batteries don't have any ports. Sometimes sealed batteries are called maintenance free or sealed for life. As for the charge state window, the colour depends on the manufacturer of the battery. Not sure what blue means. Generally green is charged and good, red is low charge and no colour is low electrolyte. Red and green usually mean the same thing but manufacturers use different colours for the other battery states. Way back when I was a young apprentice working on emergency power supplies I had an explosive education into how much hydrogen and oxygen a big bank of rapidly charging wet lead acid batteries can produce and how much acid comes out of a case when you blow it apart. 😞
  9. If you are looking for longer distances on battery power, then a plug-in hybrid may be more suitable for your needs. The plug-in hybrids tend to have a bigger capacity battery pack to allow for more mileage on electricity only. They tend to have smaller engines and use the electricity to beef up performance. But plugging-in allows you to top up the battery without relying on regen. So the batteries are full after a night on charge and ready to give you maximum range on electricity. The normal hybrids like the RX tend to have smaller battery packs and use them as an adjunct to the engine, scavenging energy to extend range through regenerative braking to use with the petrol engine for acceleration, or on electricity only at slow speeds.
  10. AGM and Gel type batteries tend to be sealed and need a different charging regime to "normal" wet lead acid batteries. Being a sealed battery, you can only charge AGM and Gel batteries at a very low charge rate. This prevents the batteries producing excess gas. If they did produce excess gas, the case would blow, so they have valves that vent the gas over a certain pressure. If gas escapes out of the vents, that's your battery capacity escaping into the atmosphere and you can't ever get it back. Always use the correct charger with AGM and Gel batteries. Don't be tempted to use anything else as it can ruin the battery. One thing that people forget is that when an AGM or Gel battery is flat, it can take days to fully recharge because of the low charge rate. Charging overnight isn't enough. Also if you jump start the car after the battery has gone flat the charging circuit on the car is designed to charge at the specified low charge rate, so you'd have to drive the car round for days non-stop to fully charge the battery. :-) Open wet lead acid batteries can quite happily sit gassing for days and you just top up the electrolyte with distilled water. You can't do that on a sealed battery. Even sealed wet lead acid batteries should be charged to avoid gassing because you can't top the electrolyte back up. Basically AGM and Gel batteries hold a small amount of acid electrolyte close to the lead plates in a sort of thin sandwich, which makes them smaller and lighter. AGM batteries hold the electrolyte in a wet mat held up to the lead plates (hence the name Absorbed Glass Mat) and Gel batteries hold the electrolyte in a sheet of gel essentially. They work more or less the same as a wet lead acid battery (where the lead plate is suspended in a bath of electrolyte: So bulky! You can get more technical as the charging regimes for each type of battery is different, but the essential thing is to always use a charger designed for the type of battery you have. Hooking up an old 4 or 8 Amp battery charger to an AGM or Gel battery (or even sealed wet battery) is a sure-fire way to get them gassing thereby reducing the capacity and rendering them useless.
  11. Does anyone know the dimensions of the battery on the hybrids? The MX-5 uses a 32Ah Panasonic sealed gel battery which is 325mm long x 125mm deep x 160mm high. It even has vent ports on it because it's designed to sit in the boot on the MX-5. Not sure if it's the same battery or has similar specs, but it might be a cheaper alternative.
  12. You say you've broken the ignition, but could you be more specific? Is the steering lock not accepting the correct key now and the lock isn't turning and releasing, or is the security system not recognising the key (engine will turn over and not start) when you try and start the car? It just helps knowing what the problem is.
  13. I got a 5 watt solar panel and an obd plug and wired them together so the solar panel delivers 12v to the 12v battery. I use on both the Wife's and my car if we leave them for any length of time. I just prop the panel up on the dash and plug it into the obd socket.
  14. All the carb-equipped cars I had always need fettling. Usually worn jets, broken heaters or auto-chokes on the damn things. Electronic fuel injection (as opposed the the mechanical variety) provided a step-change in reliability as far as I was concerned. Factory rust prevention measures stopped cars rotting to bits within 5 years, so bodies got better. My first car was a 9-year-old Audi 80 that was so rotten the rear suspension parted from the Body and had to be welded back on and even after that was fixed, the boot floor was so rusty if I filled it and jammed the boot lid down I expected everything to end up on the road below! I had a 10 year old Peugeot 505 that needed complete new sills both sides. Now cars easily surpass 15 years without any welding being needed. Suspension parts needed to be changed almost on a yearly or two-yearly basis. Thankfully they last a lot longer. Some things like fuel injection improved the car without a massive increase in cost and complexity, but when CANBUS and the other "networked parts" systems came in, it saved the manufacturers cost, but increased complexity and cost for the consumer. And the more intelligent safety systems will only make things worse. Not only that, if parts are replaced and not aligned correctly can actually be dangerous. Just think of a lane-keeping system that isn't aligned correctly and keeps swerving to the side... And the alignment is complex and dealer-only. OBD2 diagnostics started out as a great idea to help the independent and home mechanics, but manufacturers then went and made all but the basic diagnostics only available through proprietary software. Or mega-expensive professional readers that can interface with all the different manufacturers. I assume that's why some of the simpler and cheaper makes like Dacia have such a good following. They're simple enough to be cheap relative to other makes and therefore easier/cheaper to service. Car manufacturers sell some front end parts at a loss in order to reduce insurance costs and therefore groupings to boost sales. That's how expensive things like headlamps and bumpers with parking sensors can be.
  15. Another place to look would be the boot. The nav ecu and the camera ecu are in the boot as is the bulb failure module. But there is no common connection for all the things that are failing. Each if the three modules have indicator, reverse and camera lines.