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About Delphius1

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  1. Under the glovebox on a right hand drive car. There's a panel covering the fusebox that unclips to reveal the fusebox. If you look under there you wouldn't know the fuse box is there because of the cover.
  2. If the rear indicators are not lighting up but the front ones are, as others have said make sure the bulbs have continuity across the filament and make sure they are filament bulbs and not LEDs (which are polarity sensitive so only work in one position and need load resistors to work correctly). If you are sure the bulbs have good filaments and the connectors are making good contact and they are still not working, check for 12v at the indicator socket when you switch the indicators on. Obviously one side at a time and you should see the 12v pulsing on and off in time to the rhythm of the other bulbs. If you don't get 12v at the socket, then trace back the wiring. I'd suspect the bulb failure module that monitors bulb failure of all the rear lights. All the light circuits go through that failure module and it's not unknown for the module to go open circuit and not supply voltage to the bulbs, especially if there has been water ingress and it's got into the module. It's a lottery if it goes open circuit if it illuminates the bulb failure light in the dial cluster. Unfortunately I don't know the location of the bulb failure module, but I'm sure someone will come along with the info. :-) The one on my old Supra went open circuit on the brake lights, so I had no brake lights and no indication on the dash that they had failed. Luckily a friend told me they weren't working when I pulled into a car park in front of him. Luckily he wasn't close enough to rear-end the car! In the end I just linked across the input and output for the brake lights and bypassed the bulb failure module.
  3. I'd make sure the 12v battery is fully charged. It's the time of year when we all start turning on the heater fan up to full to demist and the screen/mirror/seat heaters go on. i.e. it's puts more strain on the 12v battery. It's very easy to get the battery to a stage where it doesn't have the oomph to unlock the latch and work the tailgate (it's takes quite a bit of current to do the job). On a hybrid you don't tend to notice the 12v battery dying as you would with a totally internal combustion engine car. If you can, try charging the 12v battery and see if the tailgate action improves. Might save you a bit of money chasing other things when all you might need is a new battery.
  4. Herbie, It just seemed obvious when the OP was posting about oil level, especially as it was an info screen message rather than a big red warning light! I've tracked down the sensor for the RX300/RX330, I'm guessing the RX400 should be similar or the same: It would be worth checking the sensor is (a) connected and (b) faulty before shelling out for a new one. They don't seem particularly cheap for what they are!
  5. I'll have to bow out of commenting on this one as I didn't have a working Lexus camera to compare against. I bought the car with a broken camera.
  6. I'm not sure if it's the same on the RX400, but on my RX300 the oil level warning and oil pressure warning are two entirely different warnings, supplied by two different sensors. The oil pressure switch measures the oil pressure in the oil gallery after the oil pump and lights the red oil can if the pressure is low on my RX. The light is red for a reason: the engine shouldn't be run with low oil pressure. The oil level is measured by a float switch in the sump. The oil level warning light is an amber oil can on my RX300. ON the RX400 I assume the warning is in the information display. Being amber (or the information display) it means the warning is not as critical as oil pressure. You can check the level using the dipstick and if the level is okay, then get the sensor changed. Regarding the Original Posters comments, they've got an oil level warning, but changed the parts that sense oil pressure. They changed the oil pressure switch and the oil filter, but not the oil level switch, which is completely different. No wonder the fault is still there. The oil level float switch in the bottom of the block needs changing.
  7. It's nice that 18 months after I posted it, this thread is still helping people. Must be the most helpful thread I've posted anywhere. :-)
  8. There's no direct replacement/upgrade as far as I'm aware. You could look into one of the modules that plugs into the external CD changer socket on the original ML head unit and gives you Bluetooth. The main bugbear with closed systems like the ML one is that the line levels and speaker impedances used in the system are completely different than standard systems. So you can't just go out and buy a head unit and expect it to plug straight into the Mark Levinson wiring and have it work. The ML head unit drives and amp under the rear seats, which then drives the completely non-standard speakers. So if you fit a head unit from any of the usual makers like Panasonic, Sony, JVC, etc, then you may need a line level convertor between it and the Mark Levinson amp. You may also need a 12v feed from the head unit to the amp when the head unit is switched on, to switch to amp on and off. Otherwise you either don't switch the amp on and get no audio, or if you feed it permanent 12v, you risk draining the battery. With closed systems like the Mark Levinson one, I always recommend taking the car to a car audio specialist. They can advise on what would be required to interface a new aftermarket head unit into the existing system. That way you drive the components at the correct level and get decent audio.
  9. Cutting and re-connecting two wires doesn't usually result in this sort of catastrophic failure. The only time I've ever seen a list of errors like that is when the battery has been connected the wrong way round or the car has suffered damage from water ingress. The only other thing that could explain it is if the wires were something like digital data signal wires where simply resoldering them isn't necessarily the way to repair the wire. The only thing I can suggest is to hook the car up to techstream so you get an idea of what modules are reporting faults. It's possible that multiple modules have lost connection to a single module and that's why you're getting so many errors. Have you disconnected the battery for 20 minutes or so to reset the car's systems? The old "turn it off and back on again!" trick might just reset all the modules so they communicate with each other again.
  10. When you start the car, the loud noise from the open exhaust pipes where the cat used to be is a bit of a giveaway. :-)
  11. Don't forget the gearbox and engine should be at operating temperature and the engine should still be running while checking the gearbox oil level, unlike checking engine oil.
  12. I've just fitted budget tyres to replace the Avon zx's on My RX300. Couldn't really justify spending over a quarter of the value of the car on tyres! I fitted Three-A EcoSavers, never heard of them before, but they are Chinese (just like most budget tyres and even some premium tyres these days). C rated for economy and wet grip, 72Db on noise. I'm very happy. They are 104 load rated rather than the 100 of the Avons and I must say the car rides a bit better. I was originally offered Blacklions, but the noise, wet grip and economy ratings were a lot higher then the Three-As. I suspect they were just trying to sell them off. Wet grip was tested on the M56 last weekend in a torrential downpour. No aquaplaning and no drama when hitting patches of standing water. They just ploughed through it. Being budget tyres, I'll see what the longevity is like and how they hold up on the ratings once they get a bit of wear on them. Edited to add: I was in Australia during the winter and was interesting to see the Chinese brands Like Jinyu and LingLong get advertised just like the major European brands. There doesn't appear to be the same badge issue. If they work just as good as the major brands, then the Australians buy them.
  13. Have a word with a car audio specialist. On closed systems like ML and Bose, the head unit drives an amp which then drives the speakers. The level between the head unit and the amp is usually different than the levels produced by standard head units. So you need a line level convertor between the new head unit and the existing amp so you drive the amp at the correct level.
  14. The backing plate "issue" on the MOT only refers to brakes where the backing plate has a direct effect on the braking, as in the backing plate on a drum brake setup. In that case the backing plate is an integral and essential part of the brake integrity and any defect like rust (or not being there!) can directly affect braking. In disc brakes the plate behind the disc is shield and has no effect on the braking performance and isn't an MOT fail. If the tester fails it, he's reading the rules wrong. On hybrid brakes, where the inside of the brake disc also acts like a drum, then usually the drum brake will have a separate (stronger) backing plate, or the backing plate will be the actual suspension upright (because the thin dust shield isn't of sufficient integrity to support a drum brake). On the RX from the pictures in the Haynes manual, there is a separate backing plate which is not part of the dust shield. So the dust shield can be removed and the drum handbrake backing plate will not be affected. Therefore not an MOT failure. But you may have to argue the toss with the MOT tester if they don't understand. For instance how can the handbrake be working if the backing plate is missing? Having a Haynes manual handy to show them pictures may sway them.. :-) I've had it on classic cars with disc brakes where the dust shields are no longer available. You can remove them completely and still pass the MOT.