Delphius1

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About Delphius1

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    Advanced Member

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  • First Name
    Mark
  • Lexus Model
    RX300/RX330
  • Year of Lexus
    2004
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Hampshire

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  1. With the Xtrons unit, you need a reverse signal to switch the unit over to reversing camera mode. Without it the head unit won't display the reversing camera. Does your head unit switch to video input when you select reverse? If the head unit switches to a blank video signal on reverse, you need to get the camera video signal to the head unit, or the camera isn't being supplied 12v . The camera yellow lead runs to whichever socket on the xtrons is for reversing camera input. The positive of the camera goes to the reversing light positive and the camera negative goes to earth, so the camera is activated when the reversing light is on and the xtrons unit switches over when it gets a reversing signal as well.
  2. That's a bit of a shame, doing the same on a Prius tends to solve the problem. Do you have access to Techstream at all? It may pay to get hold of it and start some deeper diagnostics. Without the ability to delve deeper into the cars electronic systems, you won't be able to see what the issue is. The problem is all the various modules have varying levels of interdependence and if it's not the BCPS that's faulty you really need to know why its throwing the code. Edited to add: Has there been any water ingress at the back of the car at all? Any wetness around the electronic modules? Water can cause untold electronic issues if it gets amongst the hybrid battery and control modules.
  3. I'm with Herbie on this. The manufacturers don't actually make the filters. In fact in Europe, most Japanese manufacturers source filters from suppliers in Europe rather than supply all the way from Japan. It helps avoid long lead times for supply and keeps costs down. You're still getting an OEM-spec filter and it comes with the backup of the car's manufacturer. But you could probably buy the exact same filter in the aftermarket cheaper. For instance I know that Mahle in Germany supply filters to one Japanese manufacturer (not Lexus before you ask). I also agree that you should avoid the Chinese no-name filters you often see on eBay. No backup, no quality control, no thanks. My RX has a Bosch filter supplied by the local motor factor.
  4. I'd try and run it a bit in hybrid mode and see if the capacitors are slow to charge up, then clear the code. If the code comes back straight away then you probably need a new bcps. But do check related fuses like the ABS fuse to make sure it's not as simple as a blown fuse.
  5. On the Prius, C1378 usually points to a faulty brake control power supply. The BCPS manages the power fed to the high voltage battery under regen braking. It is powered from the 12v supply and I believe it contains a capacitor or bank of them to manage the 12v power supply when the 12v battery voltage drops, because it controls something essential like the brakes and needs a stable power supply. Don't want the 12v to drop and the brakes to disappear! If the 12v stays low for too long, the capacitors drop their voltage and throw a code. So the guys pointing to the 12v battery may be on the right track. The bad news is if the new 12v battery doesn't solve the problem, then it needs a bit of nous and diagnosis to confirm the cause of the fault code. Not sure if this is all relevant to the RX because the systems may be different between the RX and the Prius (for instance the BCPS may be incorporated into the DC/DC invertor on the RX), but it sort of informs you as to what may be causing the system to complain.
  6. If you drove quickly through large puddles, it can create enough water pressure to force water into all sorts of places it shouldn't be, like inside sensors. It can even strip wires from sensors. ABS sensors are the most vulnerable to water damage, but it's not uncommon for other sensors to be affected. It's worth getting under the car and doing a physical check of the wiring to the sensor to eliminate obvious repairable issues like a broken wire. Many years ago I had a Ford Sierra 4x4 and drove through a large puddle. Water got into the intake and killed the MAF sensors. It affected the fuelling so badly you could see the fuel gauge dropping.....
  7. Welland, the reason I mentioned the gauge of wire in my previous post is because the wire that supplies current to the trailer socket (and then on to the fridge and the battery in the caravan) may not be chunky enough. If the wire is too thin, then there will be a voltage drop along the wire, which means that although you get a voltage change at the battery terminals on the car, the voltage at the trailer hitch socket and then the caravan is a lot less or there is none at all. What you end up seeing is just the battery voltage of the caravan battery. In bad installations, even if the wiring has been installed specially, it can still be under-spec and dangerously thin and risk catching fire if it's trying to supply current to the caravan fridge and a discharged caravan battery at the same time. In some really bad cases I've seen caravan wiring tapped into wires in the boot, relying on the car's wiring harness to supply several amps to the caravan socket, something it was never designed to do. You need to work logically on this and go back to basics. Don't assume anything, including the fact that the wiring for charging is actually installed in the car! Check first you need to check that the car battery voltage goes from 12.5v or thereabouts when the hybrid system is inactive to 14v approx. when you press the start button and the hybrid system is active. That then gives you the base to work from because you can see the voltage jump is happening. A tired battery may not reach the required voltage. Then check you have decent gauge wire installed from the car battery terminals to the trailer socket (through a fuse at the car battery terminal of course). You then need to make sure the wire goes to the correct pin on the socket and that the voltage is exactly the same at the trailer hitch as the battery terminal. Then check the wiring on the caravan plug corresponds to the wiring on the caravan socket. I've seen installations where the pins are not matched so you can plug the caravan socket into the car, but you'd never get voltage to the caravan because the car is supplying a different pin on the socket than the caravan is wired to on the plug. It's more common than you think, because different people wired up the car socket and the caravan socket. Once you are sure you've got a voltage step at hybrid switch on, decent gauge wiring to the socket, no voltage drop, the car and the caravan connect to the same pins and you have a good connection from the car battery terminals to the caravan, then you can measure the voltage at the changeover relay in the caravan. When the caravan is plugged into the car, the nominal 12.5 volts of the car battery should not cause the relay to switch from house mode to charge mode. When the hybrid system is activated on the car (the same as starting the engine on a normal car), the voltage on the battery terminals on the car should raise to 14v-ish. The same voltage should appear at the caravan relay and it should detect this and switch over to charge mode. Pressing the button to stop the hybrid system should drop the voltage back to 12.5-ish and the caravan relay should drop out and disconnect the fridge and battery. If it doesn't then you are in danger of flattening the 12v battery which comes with it's own issues on a hybrid. Just see the number of posts on here relating to dead 12v batteries on hybrids. :-) Hopefully that should cover most of everything. I'm a bit rusty with trailer and caravan electrics, haven't done it for a few years (pre 13-pin socket era) and it changes constantly. That's another reason why the plug and socket might be wired differently: because the standards can change year-to-year.
  8. Exactly what I was saying. The hybrid battery maintains the 12v battery and the only thing that you can detect is when the hybrid system is activated. But then that's the hybrid version of engine running on a normal ICE-only car. The hybrid battery will maintain the 12v battery in the car and supply 12v to the caravan. If the hybrid battery can't maintain a charge then the engine will come on. But the process of starting the engine is entirely controlled by the car's electronics. The big thing you have to avoid is the caravan draining both the 12v and the hybrid batteries. So there has to be some way of disconnecting the caravan electrics from the car when the hybrid system is deactivated.
  9. An interesting problem because the 12v battery is maintained by the DC/DC invertor from the hybrid battery and engine revs have no effect on the battery voltage. There won't be enough voltage change to trigger a voltage sensing relay. You may have to check the towing socket on the car and see if you get a 12v feed on one of the towing socket pins when the hybrid system is activated. Then use that 12v feed as a signal for the caravan relay to switch between house mode and towing mode in the caravan. Check the thickness of the cables to the pins on the socket though, as the "sensing" pin maybe the pin that feeds 12v to the fridge and/or battery and may need to supply a fair bit of current. It may need a decent electrician to check the car's installation (don't want any fires!) and modify the caravan wiring as necessary.
  10. I'm with BatchelorDays. Cam or crank position sensor is the usual suspect, but confirm by reading the codes from the engine management system. An altwrnative bet could be not reading the immobiliser chip in the key. Reading codes from the OBD2 port will point you in the right direction.
  11. A lot depends on whether the problem is mechanical or electrical. There is a known problem of the rubber boot over the unlatch switch cracking and the switch failing due to water ingress. So the first step is to investigate the rubber boot, press the button and see if the latch motor whirrs. If it doesn't whirr, the issue is most probably electrical. Possibly the switch has failed, but it will need investigation. Checking the motor gets voltage when the unlatch button is pressed is the first step, then work from what you find. If the motor whirrs and attempts to unlatch, then the problem is most probably mechanical, or there isn't enough power in the battery. Possibly the linkages have seized stalling the motor, or the battery can't deliver enough power to the motor , or the linkages have become disconnected. I did have this happen to me once and it turned out to be a discharged 12v battery. The battery didn't have enough power to drive the latch motor to unlatch the tailgate. But then it also didn't have enough oomph to turn the engine over either.
  12. With the windows, press and hold the down button until the window stops at the bottom, but keep holding the switch for a couple of seconds after it hits the bottom. Then lift and hold the switch to lift the window and keep holding the switch for a couple of seconds after the window hits the top. Repeat for each window. Now the sunroof. Pull and hold the switch back to open the sunroof and keep holding it for a couple of seconds after it hits the back position. The push and hold the switch forward to close the sunroof and hold it for a couple of seconds after it closes. The sunroof should be reset. The tilt switch shouldn't need reesetting. If you get any nasty noises like slipping cogs, release the switch immediately and sort the cause of the noise.
  13. I'm not overly worried that my 15 year old RX is going to be stolen. It got security built in, has ultrasonic sensors and doesn't have the advanced keyless entry/start keys. Old skool technology wins! One thing in Lexus's favour is they aren't as prone to theft and parting out/shipping abroad like top end German cars, LandRovers and Land Cruisers. Plus on mine the scabby wheels and the smell of oil from the leaking cam cover gaskets would put most thieves off. :-D
  14. One option would be to use a Bluetooth dongle plugged into the OBD2 port. Most of the compatible smartphone apps have the ability do show the sort of information you need like MPG, distance to zero, fuel level etc. and show it on a smart phone screen. If you have an old android smart phone sat in a drawer, then it can be resurrected with the right app as an eco-readout! You may have to put the tank capacity into the app as that data isn't available from the vehicle, but once you program it with the tank capacity and where the fuel level is reading, you can get a readout of tank capacity and miles to zero. Of course the accuracy is only as good as the information you put in, but that's really the only way to generate the information.
  15. On the plus side, maybe you can wangle cheap insurance from LV. It's their colour..