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About Delphius1

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  1. I've been caught out at pedestrian crossings. Once a girl just walked out in front of the car expecting me to stop. My speed meant I didn't see her approach the crossing because of the windscreen pillar. I also didn't see her walk onto the crossing despite the oncoming car and I only saw her at the last moment as she walked in front of the car on my side of the road. Luckily the brakes worked well that day. Of course she carried on crossing oblivious to the 4x4 squirming to a stop just feet from the crossing as she chatted on her phone.
  2. One thing to note is that the timings of the operation after doing the door open-close thing was different on my RX. On the video after the door open/close stuff, the central locking locks/unlocks the doors straight away. On my Rx the timing was more like Lock..2..3..unlock. Then I could press the lock/unlock button on the fob for a second and then within 3-5 seconds press another key on the fob. That was the tricky thing. At first the doors locked and then I pressed the key straight Then I realised, so waited for them to unlock and pressed the lock/unlock buttons on the fob for too long... fail. So, try again. Waited for the door locks, then pressed the lock/unlock buttons for a second and then took too long before I pressed the lock Then finally I waited for the doors to lock..2..3..unlock... then pressed the lock/unlock buttons on the fob for a second and straight away pressed the lock button.. success! As Herbie says above, timing is everything. :-) So the programming goes something like this. (I did it at the speed you can read this text, it didn't work if I took my time like the video): Sit in car with drivers door closed Open drivers door. Key in ignition, key out of ignition, key in ignition, key out of ignition Close drivers door, open drivers door, close drivers door, open drivers door, Key in ignition, key out of ignition, Close drivers door, open drivers door, close drivers door, open drivers door, Key in ignition, close drivers door, turn ignition to on (lights on dash), turn ignition off and remove key Central locking locks doors... wait for doors to unlock, Press lock & unlock buttons on key fob for a second, release, then press lock button Central locking should lock/unlock. Key is now programmed: open drivers door to cancel programming mode.
  3. I used the video below and followed what he did. The techstream bit was straightforward, but doing the door close/open and press the lock/unlock button thing on the keyfob was a bit hit and miss. I had to have a few goes before I got the timing right. The lock unlock cycle of the doors after opening closing the doors was slower than I expected and certainly slower than on the video. Also pressing the lock unlock button and then the lock button on the fob needs to happen I think within 3-5 seconds. Iit seemed I was too slow the first few times. Once I got the timing right, it worked.
  4. I have a bit of an issue giving someone I don't know details of how to get into my car and an address where the car is located overnight. :-) But that's just me.
  5. Hi, if by smart key to mean keyless start, then no. It's just the normal 3 button ignition key. I used version 10.
  6. When I got my RX300 I only got one key with it. So, I decided to research getting a speare key sorted for it. The internet is a lovely resource and found you can do it quite cheaply if you are canny. So, the first step in the process was getting a used key (I preferred a genuine Lexus key with Lexus electronics rather than an aftermarket one) complete with electronics off eBay. I got one off eBay for £24.95. Critically it has to have the same markings to have any chance of working. My key has CE0123! CLBT/C/245/2002 DENSO 1512V on the back, so I chose a key with the same markings on eBay. Then I needed a new key blank. I went for one of the 3-button flip fob cases on eBay rather than exactly the same key. That was £3.95. Getting the key blade cut was a tenner*. Then I fitted the electronics in the new key. Now for the technical bit: Using techstream to program the car to accept the new key. Easily done. And finally the "insert the key twice, open the door, close the door twice etc" bit to get the central locking part of the fob working. Done (after getting the timing right on door opening, key entry and button presses: it took 5 attempts to get it all synchronised so it worked). So now I have a spare key for around £40. I'm a happy bunny. * There is a bit of a saga involved in the key cutting. I had to buy a pair of spare blades for £3 after the first two people I asked messed up the key cutting. The first Timpsons I went to actually cut completely through the key blade and messed it up, the second place (a car key specialist) used a computer to cut the key but the cutting seemed to be out by a millimetre so the key didn't work. I finally went to a Timpsons where a young lad gave me all the usual caveats (may not work because it's not our key blah blah) but still had a bash when I said fine. He cut the key on a simple jig and voila! It worked the lock.
  7. Delphius1

    Warning Lights

    I'd agree that a diagnostic check is the only way to see what the system is complaining about. VSC is a complicated system that involves a lot of sensors and it may be just as simple as needing to do a reset procedure on a sensor. For instance if it's an accellerometer and the vehicle power was applied whilst the vehicle wasn't on flat ground, the sensor would give the wrong reading. But without Techstream looking into the bowels of the vehicle electronics, it's difficult to say what the problem could be.
  8. Ah, you made it sound so easy... so normal BMW service then.
  9. Teslas aren't doing too bad on battery longevity. The Tesla roadsters have the Gen.1 batteries that seem to be holding up pretty well. Indications are leter generations are holding up pretty well even after much supercharging. The battery technology on Teslas is up there with the best, but personally I agree the build quality of the cars is pretty appalling. Panel gaps all over the place, trims not lining up, door handles that stick and lock you out of the car and plenty of wind noise, rattles and squeaks. Not something you want on what is a pretty expensive car. The technology side Tesla seem to have sorted: the software tends to work. It seems the fit and finish side they're lacking on. It seems there have been numerous recalls on various items. Reminds me when I worked for an American software company. The attitude to quality wasn't up to European statndards. They were quite happy to release something that wasn't quite 100% and fix it later in updates while customers struggled with frustrating issues that should have been fixed before release.
  10. Wow, that's customer service! I just wonder how many dealers whould have sent the skinny trainee into the bowels of the car with a dremel to hack off the offending bracket?
  11. This one was pretty loud and annoying, so it had to go. No matter how long it took. The main issue was on the passenger side, but the drivers side also had a small rattle that I noticed after fixing the big one. So the drivers side got the same treatment. It's nice to have a quiet car. Now it's just my keys rattling hanging from the ignition. That I can solve easily.
  12. Ever since I bought my RX back in May, it's had an annoying dash rattle that appeared to come from the very front of the dash by the demister vent. I've had a couple of goes at quietening the rattle down. The first few attempts I attempted to secure the front of the dash to the demister vent with different thicknesses and strengths of double-sided tape. I got some improvement, but there was still a rattle on certain bumps. Today I decided I would silence the thing once and for all. This time replicating the vibration of the dash by pulling the demister vent up and down. By using pads of material stuffed into random places, it became apparent that the rattle was coming from the very front of the dash where it butts up to the windscreen. The tongue of dash material between the vent and the dash seems to have shrunk so it can move around and hit the windscreen and the support brackets underneath. By stuffing a pad between the dash and the windscreen the rattle was silenced. All very good, but stuffing pads in between the dash and the screen is pretty unsightly :-). In the end my solution was to strip the black outer sleeve from a satellite coax cable to give me a black crushable tube to fill the space. The material was a bit plasticky which I thought might rattle on it's own if it was allowed to move, so I wrapped black tape around it to bulk it out and deaden any rattle. I then stuffed it down the gap between the dash and the screen. The tube easily squashed into the gap and being black blended in so well you can't see it. But being a tube it conformed easily so there should be no danger of it putting excessive pressure on the dash or screen, it just filled the gap. Taking it for a run on my worst rattly road, the rattle has gone. Hopefully for good. Obviously this solved my rattle. It may not help with other rattles, but it's a starting point for anyone being sent spare by dash rattles.
  13. Plug in hybrids really need a larger battery and that's where Tesla have made the leap ahead of the Japanese. The Toyota RAV4 EV in the USA uses a Tesla battery, not a Toyota one, because the power density and longevity are superior.
  14. I agree, cheap O2 sensors can be a gamble. They don't last as long as better quality ones, but the thing you gave to remember the O2 sensor has failed for a reason. A sensor upstream can create fuelling issues, or oil being burned in the cylinders can cause the sensors to fail. So if the O2 sensors fail, the underlying issue needs to be addressed as well as replacing the sensors, otherwise the new sensors fail quickly.
  15. I'd get the suspension bushes checked out. Worn bushes will make the car track badly and it'll be all over the place.