Delphius1

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About Delphius1

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  • First Name
    Mark
  • Lexus Model
    RX300/RX330
  • Year of Lexus
    2004
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Hampshire

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  1. Cutting and re-connecting two wires doesn't usually result in this sort of catastrophic failure. The only time I've ever seen a list of errors like that is when the battery has been connected the wrong way round or the car has suffered damage from water ingress. The only other thing that could explain it is if the wires were something like digital data signal wires where simply resoldering them isn't necessarily the way to repair the wire. The only thing I can suggest is to hook the car up to techstream so you get an idea of what modules are reporting faults. It's possible that multiple modules have lost connection to a single module and that's why you're getting so many errors. Have you disconnected the battery for 20 minutes or so to reset the car's systems? The old "turn it off and back on again!" trick might just reset all the modules so they communicate with each other again.
  2. When you start the car, the loud noise from the open exhaust pipes where the cat used to be is a bit of a giveaway. :-)
  3. Don't forget the gearbox and engine should be at operating temperature and the engine should still be running while checking the gearbox oil level, unlike checking engine oil.
  4. I've just fitted budget tyres to replace the Avon zx's on My RX300. Couldn't really justify spending over a quarter of the value of the car on tyres! I fitted Three-A EcoSavers, never heard of them before, but they are Chinese (just like most budget tyres and even some premium tyres these days). C rated for economy and wet grip, 72Db on noise. I'm very happy. They are 104 load rated rather than the 100 of the Avons and I must say the car rides a bit better. I was originally offered Blacklions, but the noise, wet grip and economy ratings were a lot higher then the Three-As. I suspect they were just trying to sell them off. Wet grip was tested on the M56 last weekend in a torrential downpour. No aquaplaning and no drama when hitting patches of standing water. They just ploughed through it. Being budget tyres, I'll see what the longevity is like and how they hold up on the ratings once they get a bit of wear on them. Edited to add: I was in Australia during the winter and was interesting to see the Chinese brands Like Jinyu and LingLong get advertised just like the major European brands. There doesn't appear to be the same badge issue. If they work just as good as the major brands, then the Australians buy them.
  5. Have a word with a car audio specialist. On closed systems like ML and Bose, the head unit drives an amp which then drives the speakers. The level between the head unit and the amp is usually different than the levels produced by standard head units. So you need a line level convertor between the new head unit and the existing amp so you drive the amp at the correct level.
  6. The backing plate "issue" on the MOT only refers to brakes where the backing plate has a direct effect on the braking, as in the backing plate on a drum brake setup. In that case the backing plate is an integral and essential part of the brake integrity and any defect like rust (or not being there!) can directly affect braking. In disc brakes the plate behind the disc is shield and has no effect on the braking performance and isn't an MOT fail. If the tester fails it, he's reading the rules wrong. On hybrid brakes, where the inside of the brake disc also acts like a drum, then usually the drum brake will have a separate (stronger) backing plate, or the backing plate will be the actual suspension upright (because the thin dust shield isn't of sufficient integrity to support a drum brake). On the RX from the pictures in the Haynes manual, there is a separate backing plate which is not part of the dust shield. So the dust shield can be removed and the drum handbrake backing plate will not be affected. Therefore not an MOT failure. But you may have to argue the toss with the MOT tester if they don't understand. For instance how can the handbrake be working if the backing plate is missing? Having a Haynes manual handy to show them pictures may sway them.. :-) I've had it on classic cars with disc brakes where the dust shields are no longer available. You can remove them completely and still pass the MOT.
  7. I don't mind which petrol I put in the car. Generally it's a mixture of regular supermarket petrol, with the premium stuff once a month or so. I did use a fuel cleaner once, it cleaned the system so well my mpg went from 32 to 22. It had cleaned the fuel consumption sensor so I was getting a true reading. ☹️
  8. There is a company called Walker that produce a whole range of aftermarket sensors, coil packs, etc. They are originally a US company, but they have a presence here too. I think they are trade only and you have to go through a motor factor. I don't have their UK contact details. But it's worth checking with your local factor to see if they can get parts from Walkers. They do coil packs for the RX I'm sure they would be decent quality. I've used their coil packs and an oxygen sensor on an MX-5 before and they have worked fine. They appear to be better quality then the cheap Chinese stuff. Their US website is here: http://www.walkerproducts.com/
  9. With the Xtrons unit, you need a reverse signal to switch the unit over to reversing camera mode. Without it the head unit won't display the reversing camera. Does your head unit switch to video input when you select reverse? If the head unit switches to a blank video signal on reverse, you need to get the camera video signal to the head unit, or the camera isn't being supplied 12v . The camera yellow lead runs to whichever socket on the xtrons is for reversing camera input. The positive of the camera goes to the reversing light positive and the camera negative goes to earth, so the camera is activated when the reversing light is on and the xtrons unit switches over when it gets a reversing signal as well.
  10. That's a bit of a shame, doing the same on a Prius tends to solve the problem. Do you have access to Techstream at all? It may pay to get hold of it and start some deeper diagnostics. Without the ability to delve deeper into the cars electronic systems, you won't be able to see what the issue is. The problem is all the various modules have varying levels of interdependence and if it's not the BCPS that's faulty you really need to know why its throwing the code. Edited to add: Has there been any water ingress at the back of the car at all? Any wetness around the electronic modules? Water can cause untold electronic issues if it gets amongst the hybrid battery and control modules.
  11. I'm with Herbie on this. The manufacturers don't actually make the filters. In fact in Europe, most Japanese manufacturers source filters from suppliers in Europe rather than supply all the way from Japan. It helps avoid long lead times for supply and keeps costs down. You're still getting an OEM-spec filter and it comes with the backup of the car's manufacturer. But you could probably buy the exact same filter in the aftermarket cheaper. For instance I know that Mahle in Germany supply filters to one Japanese manufacturer (not Lexus before you ask). I also agree that you should avoid the Chinese no-name filters you often see on eBay. No backup, no quality control, no thanks. My RX has a Bosch filter supplied by the local motor factor.
  12. I'd try and run it a bit in hybrid mode and see if the capacitors are slow to charge up, then clear the code. If the code comes back straight away then you probably need a new bcps. But do check related fuses like the ABS fuse to make sure it's not as simple as a blown fuse.
  13. On the Prius, C1378 usually points to a faulty brake control power supply. The BCPS manages the power fed to the high voltage battery under regen braking. It is powered from the 12v supply and I believe it contains a capacitor or bank of them to manage the 12v power supply when the 12v battery voltage drops, because it controls something essential like the brakes and needs a stable power supply. Don't want the 12v to drop and the brakes to disappear! If the 12v stays low for too long, the capacitors drop their voltage and throw a code. So the guys pointing to the 12v battery may be on the right track. The bad news is if the new 12v battery doesn't solve the problem, then it needs a bit of nous and diagnosis to confirm the cause of the fault code. Not sure if this is all relevant to the RX because the systems may be different between the RX and the Prius (for instance the BCPS may be incorporated into the DC/DC invertor on the RX), but it sort of informs you as to what may be causing the system to complain.
  14. If you drove quickly through large puddles, it can create enough water pressure to force water into all sorts of places it shouldn't be, like inside sensors. It can even strip wires from sensors. ABS sensors are the most vulnerable to water damage, but it's not uncommon for other sensors to be affected. It's worth getting under the car and doing a physical check of the wiring to the sensor to eliminate obvious repairable issues like a broken wire. Many years ago I had a Ford Sierra 4x4 and drove through a large puddle. Water got into the intake and killed the MAF sensors. It affected the fuelling so badly you could see the fuel gauge dropping.....
  15. Welland, the reason I mentioned the gauge of wire in my previous post is because the wire that supplies current to the trailer socket (and then on to the fridge and the battery in the caravan) may not be chunky enough. If the wire is too thin, then there will be a voltage drop along the wire, which means that although you get a voltage change at the battery terminals on the car, the voltage at the trailer hitch socket and then the caravan is a lot less or there is none at all. What you end up seeing is just the battery voltage of the caravan battery. In bad installations, even if the wiring has been installed specially, it can still be under-spec and dangerously thin and risk catching fire if it's trying to supply current to the caravan fridge and a discharged caravan battery at the same time. In some really bad cases I've seen caravan wiring tapped into wires in the boot, relying on the car's wiring harness to supply several amps to the caravan socket, something it was never designed to do. You need to work logically on this and go back to basics. Don't assume anything, including the fact that the wiring for charging is actually installed in the car! Check first you need to check that the car battery voltage goes from 12.5v or thereabouts when the hybrid system is inactive to 14v approx. when you press the start button and the hybrid system is active. That then gives you the base to work from because you can see the voltage jump is happening. A tired battery may not reach the required voltage. Then check you have decent gauge wire installed from the car battery terminals to the trailer socket (through a fuse at the car battery terminal of course). You then need to make sure the wire goes to the correct pin on the socket and that the voltage is exactly the same at the trailer hitch as the battery terminal. Then check the wiring on the caravan plug corresponds to the wiring on the caravan socket. I've seen installations where the pins are not matched so you can plug the caravan socket into the car, but you'd never get voltage to the caravan because the car is supplying a different pin on the socket than the caravan is wired to on the plug. It's more common than you think, because different people wired up the car socket and the caravan socket. Once you are sure you've got a voltage step at hybrid switch on, decent gauge wiring to the socket, no voltage drop, the car and the caravan connect to the same pins and you have a good connection from the car battery terminals to the caravan, then you can measure the voltage at the changeover relay in the caravan. When the caravan is plugged into the car, the nominal 12.5 volts of the car battery should not cause the relay to switch from house mode to charge mode. When the hybrid system is activated on the car (the same as starting the engine on a normal car), the voltage on the battery terminals on the car should raise to 14v-ish. The same voltage should appear at the caravan relay and it should detect this and switch over to charge mode. Pressing the button to stop the hybrid system should drop the voltage back to 12.5-ish and the caravan relay should drop out and disconnect the fridge and battery. If it doesn't then you are in danger of flattening the 12v battery which comes with it's own issues on a hybrid. Just see the number of posts on here relating to dead 12v batteries on hybrids. :-) Hopefully that should cover most of everything. I'm a bit rusty with trailer and caravan electrics, haven't done it for a few years (pre 13-pin socket era) and it changes constantly. That's another reason why the plug and socket might be wired differently: because the standards can change year-to-year.