Herbie

Not sure what you mean by "when it's charging" there Umar. I'm talking about when you're out driving and maybe stood at a red light. Always keep it in D or if you know you won't be moving for a good few minutes you can put it in P, but just don't use N.

You need to be in READY mode so that the petrol engine can come on/go off when it needs to, to keep the batteries charged. They don't charge in ACC mode. You also need to stop putting the car in Neutral because again, the batteries don't charge and the hybrid system doesn't work when in Neutral.

OK, so your 12V battery wasn't good and needed replacing anyway, so at least you know that that's alright now. You've got all those fault codes but as I said (and illustrated) further up the thread, one of the codes you have is P0A0F, which covers five different areas of concern. You really need to use Techstream to narrow it down with the sub-codes that TS shows. I'm afraid that it's not looking like a five-minute fix and you're going to have to do some methodical and logical diagnostic fault-finding to get to the bottom of it, unless anyone else has any great ideas to share.

Thanks for the mention Paul. Apoc - here is the topic Paul refers to, and yes, it's very easy to install yourself but I do appreciate not everyone feels comfortable doing that. If you install it in the glove box then you could have it done within an hour. Anyway, here's my installation:

Sadly, my favourites, Goodyear Vector 4Seasons Gen2 (or 3) or Michelin Cross Climates aren't available in 20" size, so I'll be keeping my eyes on this topic myself.

Given that my car is only just over 3 years old yes, it's still going to the dealers at the moment under service plans and extended warranty, but once it reaches about 6 or 7 years old then it'll be going to my local trusted garage for everything unless it's for something to do with the hybrid system (my guy doesn't have the gear to do hybrid work).

It just annoys me that people think only Lexus techs can work on Lexus cars. There are many hundreds, if not thousands, of fully qualified mechanics around the country providing excellent service for reasonable prices. A mate of mine (who, sadly, lives about 300 miles away these days) served a four-year apprenticeship with Vauxhall. He then got about 5 more years experience under his belt and then went self-employed. He is a damn fine mechanic and works on any and all brands of cars. He's now been self-employed for about 30 years and gets all his work by word of mouth recommendations. By your reasoning he would either be unemployed or stuck in the main dealers where he served his apprenticeship. You don't need a dealer. You don't need an independent Lexus specialist - you just need a known good mechanic with a good reputation and a proven history of happy customers. It may be a Lexus but it's still 'a car'.

I'll almost guarantee that it's the 12V battery. Go and get it load tested and I'll bet there's a bad cell.

You need to get yourself one of these jump start battery packs. I've had one similar to this (mine's a Tacklife T8) for a couple of years and never needed it for my own car as it gets plenty of use. However, I've used it six times now for other people and it works brilliantly well. And I've only charged it once; didn't even really need it but I was just erring on the side of caution.

My own personal choice is Yuasa but Bosch are good too.

Sorry Umar, I missed that For some reason or other the pictures aren't loading for me but if it's been load tested and the result was a fail, you just need a new battery and you should be sorted then.

That's alright Umar, that shows that the charging system is working as it should. Have you had the 12V battery load tested yet?

I don't think wipers are included in the OBD2 error codes but you could read/have them read and see if anything shows up. Below is a screenshot from the RX450h workshop manual so it's not ideal but I think the systems may be similar enough to help. The second column gives the possible causes with the most likely candidate at the top. I would suggest that unless you have a warranty on the car, or you have the required electrical test gear, it may be best to go to an auto-electrician to have it sorted.

I'm sorry Linas, I'm just not having that. Ask family, friends and work mates where they take their cars, and get personal recommendations by word of mouth. There must be someone, somewhere, who does good work at a good price and has a good reputation. I live in a town with a population of about 145k-150k people and know at least 4 garages that meet that criteria. There are likely to be more but I don't know all areas of the town or all garages in the town.

Just to play 'Devil's Advocate'....... First, let me say that I fully agree with everyone else; it was not faulty when it went in there but it was when it came out. That is irrefutable. What they have done is a bodge, not a fix, and again, they will have to carry out a proper fix on the car. The bit that I'm having trouble with is people saying that it's a "safety issue". The wearing of seatbelts became compulsory in January 1983, which is almost 40 years ago. Absolutely no one should need to rely on a buzzer to tell them to put a seatbelt on - it should be deeply ingrained in us by now and as involuntary as breathing that, as we sit down, we reach for the seatbelt. I literally just could not drive away without the seatbelt in place, I would feel completely naked without it.

Why would you even consider taking such an old car to the dealers for work anyway?

So really you're just guessing that it's the camera that's drawing the power? Your meter in that photo shows a draw of 560mA when it should really be about a tenth of that. My quiescent current draw is no more than 70mA and that includes the dashcam in parking mode. Some fuses feed more than one piece of equipment and more than one circuit. Given your figures I'd say you almost certainly have a fault somewhere and you need to do some proper diagnostic testing to find exactly what and where it is. Alternatively, being as it's a 2020 car and presumably still under warranty, get it back to Lexus for them to sort it.

Quite right, it wasn't, which is why I followed it with a little emoji.

I would imagine it is, unless your headlights are kerosene or gas powered

Most likely not. The MOT is an inspection and the inspectors are not allowed to carry out any fault-finding, diagnostics or indeed any work at all. This is the reason why you sometimes see "Could not inspect as engine drip tray in the way" or "Could not inspect rear seatbelt due to baby seat in the way." Also, given that your car is 9 years old, why pay the extortionate rates at Lexus dealers? Find a good auto-electrician (not a general mechanic) and they'll get it done for half the price of Lexus.

Even if you have the car serviced elsewhere you can still have the Hybrid Health Check done as a stand-alone thing at Lexus for £59 and as long as it passes, they warrant it for 12 months. Even if you don't have the HHC done and it starts to give problems, you can replace individual cells rather than having to buy the whole thing.

Why not take the opportunity to scrap the air system altogether and change over to coils? A full set of four can be bought for not much more than the £750 you're going to spend on one air strut. If you really want to keep the air, I'll send you a PM that may help you.

No, you're paying for all that nice showroom and putting more money in corporate coffers - they charge big just because they can. You always have recourse at any reputable garage. Then with the greatest of respect, you have either not done due diligence or you've just been unlucky. Whatever the business, be it a bakers or an electrician, a mechanic or a builder, word-of-mouth recommendation from friends and family will always bring up good businesses who work hard to keep their good reputations.

That's true John; just hate giving the government that extra money

Just got a reminder from DVLA that car tax is due on 1st March and it's now £480 for a one-off payment for the year!!! If I remember correctly it was about £420 last year and I really didn't like that, but just had to grin and bear it as a consequence of owning a 2018 RX. Roll on 2024 when it's due to drop to 'normal'.