engine

The corner closest to the wheel arch has a 10mm screw/bolt that goes vertically upwards into the panel I recall. It normally doesn't need a bolt in it to hold it in place, though.

Just to clarify, I figured this out eventually - in Techstream, you have to click and hold the left and right arrow buttons (on the UI) for a short while for it to do anything!

Hi, Has anyone had success with the mirror diagnostics on Techstream before? I assume it's the same regardless of the model. One of my mirrors has started to only respond in one direction? Can hear it sort of making a small 'tap' noise when you press the button, but the motor doesn't do anything. I disconnected the grey and back connectors for the motors an it still does that noise (I think it's possibly a relay in there that does it). Inspected everything, couldn't find a problem, so put it back together. Techstream shows voltages for the position sensors, and no DTCs, but I couldn't get it to do test on either side (e.g. including the working one). The popup with the buttons showed, but it just says 'OFF' in a little window. Tried it with the car running but no different. Slightly difficult to diagnose it as it's controlled by an ECU, which goes to something else, which then goes to the motors! I can't tell you how long it's been like that, I just haven't noticed (adjusting mirrors is so infrequent if no one else drives it!)

In case anyone ends up with the same in future, a replacement shock absorber solved the issue. Despite not giving the usual symptoms (I assume due to the weight of the RX), the shock absorber had completely failed - with the spring off, the piston could be moved its entire range, and the 'clunk' was essentially a bit of slack at either end of this.

In short, no. I have the same, and bought all kinds of nonsense in order to try to get it to work, but the factory iPod connector will only work on the old iPod/Touch/iPhone models (can't recall the specifics, but old ones basically).

I don't think Land Rover have ever made a good car - they're a bit like VW, in such that they have a loyal cult of owners who do a lot of PR-type cover-ups for them, when in reality they're quite bad for cost vs reliability.

I don't know what you had on there before, but they might have done it thinking it was for practical purposes - the metal caps (in my experience) can corrode on and cause problems that you wouldn't get with plastic ones. Based on these for the Ct200h, they are just under £4 each from Lexus https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263818861513

ah - I ended up buying direct from Lexus for a bit more on the same part - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251957259744 I had a bit of a dilemma when I saw the one you linked is about £30 less, but I did get to use some Nectar points so I spent less actual money in the end, so not worth me cancelling overall. Surprised how much the Lexus top "support" is when compared to aftermarket (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233280316956), considering the shock absorbers seem to be reasonably competitive in price

Hi, Has anyone had any conscious input on the correct P/N for a replacement rear shock? The fitted P/N on my RX400h is A0943-44163, which in the 2011 KYB catalogue (https://www.spring-loaded.co.uk/pdf/kyb-japanese-catalogue-2011.pdf) corresponds to a KYB P/N of of 339211, and is listed along with: 4854048280 4854048280B 4854048280C 4854049315 But... https://lexus-europe.epc-data.com/rx400h/mhu38r/5163/chassis/4804/48540/ and other sources (using VIN lookup) show the PN as: 48540-49325 (or 48540-48260) Nearly everywhere online (on eBay, for example) seems to link the 'matching' aftermarket part as a KYB 339209, which is for a Highlander or RX300/350 etc. The newest KYB catalogue doesn't directly list the 339211, and possibly suggests that it might be a 339209. Further searches have found all sorts of other part numbers - I've thrown out a few enquiries here and there, but does anyone know what the compatibility is? Part numbers can often be superseded, and catalogues out of date, so it's not easy to tell. I was assuming that there is a reason why so many eBay listings suggest that the RX400h has the same fitment as the other RX's ?

Assuming you are simply replacing the standard camera and still displaying it on the standard screen (with the computer)... - The 'new' Camera is wired to the yellow output wire from the 'old' Camera multiplug (on the right) - The 'new' Camera live (red) is wired to the +12v from the rear reverse lamp - The 'new' Camera earth (black) is wired to the earth on the boot loom. - The 'old' Camera earth, +6v live are , and white PCB wire are cut and isolated I did have good intentions to tidy all the above up and solder it correctly, but I forgot about doing it. It's been working as shown for quite some time now.

Pretty much. The white is isolated and unconnected

I did mine last year but, unlike this write up, completely removed the old unit including PCB. . I tapped into the reverse light for 12v feed. Took a bit of trial and error, but you wouldn't know it wasn't OE now.

I've had an issue with the rear passenger side being a bit 'knocky' since I've had my RX400h, but I recent went down a rougher road and it is now decidedly worse. Almost a year ago I replaced all the ARB bushes and links, thinking it was that kind of noise, but it remained. The MOT didn't pick anything up. I took the strut off to check for anything obvious, but couldn't find anything. The play only seems to be at the 12 o'clock position, and I can't determine what is causing it. It seems, from videos I've made (see below) filming behind whilst I manipulate the wheel, that the strut moves with the noise, suggesting it isn't likely to be a floating wheel issue (wheel bearing, for example). The wheel bolts have been removed whilst I removed the strut, replaced, and everything appears to be nice and tight until the wheel is back on. It is pronounced when that wheel goes over bumps, and the knocking reverberates, leading me to suspect it could be shock absorber linked - I just can't see how. Any ideas/knowledge/experience is welcome. https://imgur.com/a/RJqAwtF

Not exactly - the question related more to "when does the radiator fan come on?" (with respect to the needle position). As per my first post on the subject: The radiator fan doesn't come in any "overheat" situation - it comes on to regulate the coolant temperature, so can be expected to come on at a small amount above normal operating temperature. It simply simulates the airflow that normally cools the coolant when moving. The needle will move as appropriate. There isn't a magical temperature range where the needle jumps to half way and/or stays at half way - it is an incremental movement. It will. You can do it with a multimeter directly from the coolant temperature sensor itself, if you wanted to compare the voltage output with a temperature reading. Disconnecting the fans is redundant, as the test scenario in this case is "at what temperature do the fans come on". The coolant temperature gauge would be useless if it switched from "cold" to "normal" to "overheating", as you appear to be describing. I previously worked for a motor manufacturer and cooling systems was my area of testing; some days I had to spent the majority of my day observing sensor outputs and testing functions in software that relied on the values (waiting for the damn things to warm up, then cool down, then repeat), so I have previous in observing the indicative accuracy of temperature readings. Ideal area to work in for people who like sitting around, but I didn't.

Yes, but not +-40 degrees as was referenced.. A few degrees either way, but nothing that would make a noticeable movement. The difference in a fuel gauge is that there is an excusable reason why the reading would fluctuate - a cooling system tends to be designed to read at the thermostat (location of the sensor), which is also mechanically designed to open at a set temperature. The system would have to be either poorly designed, or incredibly faulty to read any significant fluctuation. The directly read temperature (i.e. the raw reading) can be observed via OBD2, the PID for which is independent of the instrument panel.