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  1. Not exactly - the question related more to "when does the radiator fan come on?" (with respect to the needle position). As per my first post on the subject: The radiator fan doesn't come in any "overheat" situation - it comes on to regulate the coolant temperature, so can be expected to come on at a small amount above normal operating temperature. It simply simulates the airflow that normally cools the coolant when moving. The needle will move as appropriate. There isn't a magical temperature range where the needle jumps to half way and/or stays at half way - it is an incremental movement. It will. You can do it with a multimeter directly from the coolant temperature sensor itself, if you wanted to compare the voltage output with a temperature reading. Disconnecting the fans is redundant, as the test scenario in this case is "at what temperature do the fans come on". The coolant temperature gauge would be useless if it switched from "cold" to "normal" to "overheating", as you appear to be describing. I previously worked for a motor manufacturer and cooling systems was my area of testing; some days I had to spent the majority of my day observing sensor outputs and testing functions in software that relied on the values (waiting for the damn things to warm up, then cool down, then repeat), so I have previous in observing the indicative accuracy of temperature readings. Ideal area to work in for people who like sitting around, but I didn't.
  2. Yes, but not +-40 degrees as was referenced.. A few degrees either way, but nothing that would make a noticeable movement. The difference in a fuel gauge is that there is an excusable reason why the reading would fluctuate - a cooling system tends to be designed to read at the thermostat (location of the sensor), which is also mechanically designed to open at a set temperature. The system would have to be either poorly designed, or incredibly faulty to read any significant fluctuation. The directly read temperature (i.e. the raw reading) can be observed via OBD2, the PID for which is independent of the instrument panel.
  3. The information it displays is accurate. I disagree with the claim that it "displays" a constant temperature despite a variation. The thermostat with thermostatically open at a fixed temperature - usually around 90 degrees (it will be fixed, but they vary from stat to stat and car to car). The thermostat will allow coolant to flow to the radiator when the coolant from the engine reaches this temp, in order to keep it regulated at a constant temperature. If the temperature rises above the threshold, due to lack of airflow onto the radiator that you'd get from moving (so when stationary, basically), it will activate the fan to substitute this. The fluctuation in temperature in the system is minimal, and certainly not across a 30 degree variation. The coolant temperature sensor is very accurate, and you can read the exact temperature via the OBD port using an appropriate dongle/software.
  4. A mini update... My self-levelling headlight sensor arm looked like this, on inspection: (yes, the bit 'pointing up' is sheared and is supposed to be 'pointing down', or at least connected to the bit that's to the right of it!) So my headlights were on maximum height and obviously going to be blinding everyone. Worse thing being Xenon, in conjunction with the height issue. I temporarily made a little splint to fix it in the short term, as I was going away for a week or so.. Having seen the costs of replacement, I pulled my finger out and fixed it for less than £2: Then refitted it for now. I gave the threaded bar a spray of copper grease after the photo, as it may well still need some adjustment I also replaced the NSR drop link and ARB bush, which has removed the ARB knock, but there's still something a bit worn on that side, only noticeable on a pothole/similar. May well be a bush on one of the rods, but it's less of a priority for now. I also finally got the camera working, but it involved a lot of trail/error. The first few attempts were using some rear dash cam cameras I had kicking about. The first one worked for a while, then stopped responding. The second one worked, of sorts, but seemed to only output in B&W, and with a "bad vertical hold" kind of effect on the screen, which was a bit weird: I ended up ordering another from Amazon, which I fitted tonight with more success. May need some tweaks and a tidier install. but it's now the correct image and in colour: (That's a bit of the drive and the garage door visible) So not bad for £10 or so. Certainly a lot cheaper than a Lexus one. I'm not sure why the first two had such an odd effect, possibly the difference between using PAL and NTSC. Who knows. Despite the other link suggesting so, I completely removed the old camera. The new one takes +12v and ground from the NSR reverse bulb, and provides signal via the yellow wire. The original black, red and white wires are snipped. Also managed to get the parking brake working. The old shoes were passable for now - the discs were a bit lipped inside though, so I adjusted what was there for now and will think about replacing the shoes (which I have) and pads (which I have) when I get a new pair of discs to stick on. I'm guessing the rods that connect to the hub (one just visible above) are connected to pressed in bushes? I'm considering changing them over at a point (for the bump/reverb over potholes) but can't quite see them on this diagram https://lexus-europe.epc-data.com/rx400h/mhu38r/5163/chassis/4804/?partno=9017912091
  5. I'm planning on sorting some bits on the weekend, as I have some parts come through. I think the ARB definitely needs a drop link or a bush, as it has the 'potting snooker balls' sound on laterally uneven roads, so I have some to put on - but it's almost like when you hit a bump, the NSR wheel "spasms" a bit - like a weird wheelspin feeling when you hit a hard bump. I'll check it out fully with the wheel in the air, but it is quite peculiar
  6. Ah ok. I'm going to try a few different leads and see if I can't "convert" it to USB or Aux in. I tend to rely on YouTube music streamed onto my phone, rather than choosing specific tracks/downloads.
  7. I have used them before, and don't particularly rate them for the interference etc. I have bought two different solutions: One, being an iPod to aux connector, although I can't find how to actually get this to work (if it does at all). Two, being a tape player aux lead, which works quite well (preferable to an FM transmitter, if you can live with an aux in 3.5mm), and was only £5.
  8. I think my self levelling sensor needs some attention, then - I'd say the top of the visible beam is at the roof height of approaching traffic. No one has particularly flashed me or anything, but I've been very conscious that they are too high. I'd probably describe mine as sounding like a diving board being jumped on. The "wibble" thing made me chuckle - I instantly thought of Edmund Blackadder, rather than Mr Bean, though. I've got a few bits on order, so I'll see what works and report back
  9. My update for today: Managed to load a CD (thanks to @Herbie ) Noticed the window buttons on the driver's door only worked for the driver's window. Found a post about resetting them, and managed to get the passenger rear working, but not sure how and can't "reset" the others (tried putting the window down on them, then holding up on the drivers' one). I'll try again on the weekend though. Also, not sure if my lights are a little too high - what sort of height should I expect the top of the visible beam to be? Still can't track the source of the weird rattle/twang. Suspect it might be the plastic cover for the spare wheel, but not sure why, or how I'd resolve it Found this in the glovebox, which I assume is some sort of iPod connector? (I'm not an Apple person)
  10. Great stuff - thanks. I've had a look on the web, and it seems that the battery screen thing is quite common to be at 80% ish. I thought it might be normal, as it lines up perfectly with the terminal symbols on the cluster display (seemed like a OCD design 😁) I'll check the CD player again tomorrow - sounds unusual, but that's Japanese tech for you!
  11. Hi, I've recently picked up an RX400h, though it needs a few bits doing. I was hoping someone might be able to offer a bit of experience! 1 - The reverse camera comes 'on', but only shows static where the picture should be (has the coloured lines, just grey fuzz from the camera). I believe this could be a connection, so I'll check that out. 2 - It has the 6 CD Mark Levinson - it doesn't seem to think it has any CDs loaded, but trying to push a CD into the slot does nothing (there's resistance as if the slot isn't a slot..) 3 - I'm pretty sure the parking brake has no effect at all. 4 - I have a bit of a 'twang' on the rear over bumps. It's possibly a bit crashy, and sounds/feels like something loose in the boot. I'm assuming maybe a bush/mount, but wondered if this is anything obvious? Those are the main 'issues'. I also have a few questions around the RX itself: - I'm guessing that any lines that don't show on the power screen are maybe a few dead cells or something (shows around 80%). Or is that just the standard visualisation? - Ideally, I'd like to add some ability to play music from my phone. I have read a bit that suggests an aftermarket stereo isn't so easy to do, and I want to avoid using an FM transmitter, so saw you can get various aux kits that use the CD Change port - does the 6 CD Mark Levinson have this? I'm completely assuming it's a head unit loading changer, rather than there being another elsewhere in the car (as that would be otherwise obvious!) I'd appreciate any knowledge transfer at all with these! Thanks in advance