Razor61

Removed the strut bar bushes from the strut bars I took off the car. I previously described the method I use and the pictures below illustrate a bit how I did it. pics are of the bushes after removal, you can hopefully see the 2 cuts through the bush and where I knocked the cut strip at both ends with a flat punch. This loosens the bush and it was a doddle knocking out the bush with a flat punch and hammer. Took no more than 30 mins for both arms with a reciprocating saw. Drilled out the rubber, knock out the centre, cut through the bush in 2 places 10mm apart leaving a mm so as not the damage the arm, knock the 10mm strip as described above and tap out the bush. This is the third time doing this for me and by far the easiest and you learn the easiest and best way to do it, that’s what is called ‘experience’🙃

Aircon sight glass tiny leak is hopefully sorted, re gas will be done on Sunday morning. I fitted a new drier, cleaned up the sight glass area, applied Gorilla epoxy glue Crystal Clear, placed the glass lens over and seated it so the glue oozed out at the sides. Cleaned away any glue that went over the pressure switch seating area, waited 15 mins and fitted the pressure switch. It’s a tight fit between the bottom of the pressure switch and the glass cos the pressure switch over hangs but put a piece of paper between and it went through no problem so it wasn’t touching the new piece of glass and disturbing it. Took a few pics and if you look closely you can see the glass lens I glued on. before After

Hi, I'm after a set of LS400 MK4 97-2000 alloys wheels in good condition. They don't need to be perfect but need to be good enough to refurb and diamond cut if possible. If anyone has a set for sale or knows of a set for sale please get in touch. This is the type of alloys I need.

The car has been converted to LPG so have a look at the YouTube video below and you could have the same issue. https://youtu.be/NOesoTKyalc

That's a cracking post, from reading the post the issue was on an RX I think but the details on what causes the error codes is very interesting and informative.

Is it Lepsons by any chance?

This has progressed quickly to rebuilding the rear suspension as well due to seized rear camber bolts, documented in another general topic for the car. Didn’t replace the shocks and rear UCA’s but replaced everything else. After a full alignment and a few hundred miles driving, the car is driving better, suspension is tighter with no annoying untoward noises, slight wandering has gone and tracks spot on. I did notice a slight suspension noise on the drivers front so jacked up the car this morning and checked all the nuts and bolts on the front. The rear bolts on the front UCA’s were tight but the fronts were not as tight as they should be, not loose by any means but I could move 2 of the bolts reasonably easily with a 14mm combination ring key, so tightened them up. Maybe I missed tightening them, possible cos I did so much at the time. I couldn’t get the torque wrench on them with the springs in place so had to judge the torque of 116nm (pretty sure it’s that). Used a medium 3/8 breaker bar with a shallow socket on 2 of them with a bit of pipe over the end. The others needed a 14mm ring key, big ring key and a big adjustable all in line to give me enough torque. Went for a drive and listened out for the ‘noise’ and it seems to have gone now. I’ll check them again when I do an oil change, with all new stuff fitted it’s a good idea to recheck the torque after a bit of driving and everything has settled down.

Looks really nice and definitely worth a look. Cambelt done in 2010, will need replacing due to age in my opinion along with water pump. If you do go and look, check the rear inner arches from inside the boot for any signs of rust etc. See pic below for a clue on where to look if you don’t know already. From looking at the pics of the car it doesn’t have tell tale signs of rust in that area.

Thank you and I’ll try not to smash this one, if anything does happen with it I will be buying it back and remove all the expensive parts I’ve fitted, ready to fit on the next one😉 Just fitted the new ambient temp sensor and the outside temp on the centre console lcd is now correct. It’s reading 26 which is correct cos it’s pretty warm but not 39 degrees which it was displaying before. You are right that owners will let them go, the costs of making the suspension ‘as new’ isn’t viable or sensible if you think about it. It was viable for me for the reasons I’ve said previously, if mine was a weekend car or just used now and again then I wouldn’t have done it. I use mine every day to work and back and choose to use the LS400 rather than the IS250 in most cases outside of going to work. Because I use the car every day and I notice everything that is wrong or needs doing, it bugs the hell out of me and I need to sort it out. Plus it’s a hobby and I like doing it, sometimes I wish I hadn’t bothered in the middle of something but the end result is worth it.

Alignment done today at Lexus Bolton, all done no problem now. Car drove a lot better with all the work done even before the alignment. Smoother over surfaces that are not really smooth, which is most of the UK roads at the moment, quieter because of it, feels ‘tight’ as it should. 200 mile trip over tomorrow and Friday mostly motorway so should notice the difference. Was it worth all the effort? Yes it was but not worth spending £4k plus on parts alone at UK prices to do everything. Most important bits to replace in my opinion are front and rear strut bars and shocks all round. Next bits would be the rear suspension arms due to the camber bolts probably being seized, if they are then if someone tries to adjust using a lot of pressure, the risk is that the bush gets knackered. After that drop links and arb bushes, front ball joints and track rod ends. Front and rear UCA’s next if they fail and are picked up on the MOT or something or you know they are knackered. All that is going off the condition of the suspension stuff I removed and what I found while doing it all on my car with 90k miles.

Definition of rust that I found is below, I was interested to know what causes it and it then follows that measures can be taken to stop it. Probably no practical measures can be taken on a car that is used in the UK though🤣 Rust is an iron oxide, a usually reddish-brown oxide formed by the reaction of iron and oxygen in the catalytic presence of water or air moisture.

Absolutely agree, cars will rust, that is a fact and is expected. Main problem is 'where' the car is rusted or corroded for me.

If I was looking I'd consider the LS400's for sale below plus others on AutoTrader/Ebay etc. MK3 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125361778907?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=HYP7LJr8QT2&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY This one below was the first LS400 I looked at 3 years ago and I should have bought it then but at the time I decided on a MK4 instead and deemed this one too expensive. Things have changed since though. At the time the condition was great, what it's like now though is a different matter. I am thinking of having a look myself cos its close to me. I ended up buying a MK3 anyway and now have a MK4 https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202206116697154?advertising-location=at_cars&atmobcid=soc5&include-delivery-option=on&make=Lexus&model=LS 400&onesearchad=New&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=Used&radius=1501&sort=relevance There are quite a few MK4's on Autotrader ranging in price. There is a Black 2000 MK4 which looks great, however I suspect there may be rust issues on the rear inner arch/s. Bubbling where the rear wing meets the trim, as in the pic below, or the main one which is on the other side where it meets the bumper are tell tale signs of this in my experience but it may ok. Only way to check is to remove the boot liners both sides and look at the inner wings or stick a camera in and look.

Yes, very satisfying in the end. I did all the suspension because I had most of the new suspension bits already. Spent a few hundred quid on the bits I didn’t have and splashed out on new shocks. If I didn’t have most of the bits already then I wouldn’t have done it all, the car drove well anyway despite worn bushes. Suspension noises were present but only really apparent over speed bumps and potholes. The cost of the stuff at UK prices would make it uneconomical to do, I wouldn’t have done it all at UK prices. Amayama is available for OEM bits at reasonable cost and I also had most of the suspension stuff already, otherwise I wouldn’t have bought another LS400, that’s for sure.

Rear strut bars/rods done as well now………………..on Thursday I tried the passenger side strut bar/rod but couldn’t get the body side bolt out and was seized so plan was to grind through the bolt but I didn’t have new bolts so left it. After I’d finished the other stuff this morning I tried the strut bar in the drivers side, came off no problem. Took the body side bolt to a local iron mongers and bought 2 new bolts, washers and nylock nuts to do the job. Back home and fitted the strut bar on the drivers side with a new bolt etc, all good. I now have a new bolt for the passenger side. Jacked up the passenger side all prepared to grind through the problem bolt and fit a new bolt. To my great surprise the problem bolt now turns in the bush and wasn’t seized so removed the nut which took a lot of effort, rusted and cross threaded and I had to use a long breaker bar and a couple of spanner’s for greater leverage. Got the nut off but man it was painful………not had to do that in a long time. The bolt took a bit of persuasion to get out with WD40, a pry bar and working it out. Why the bolt was free who knows, I don’t care why. Both strut rods done as well now and I am absolutely over the moon😀 So now all rear suspension arms, strut rods, drop links and anti roll bar bushes have been replaced. I wasn’t happy about getting the alignment done without new strut bars fitted but I would have had to get it done after replacing just the suspension arms. I managed to snap one of the bolts for the arb bush brackets so had to drill it out and tap it. Took half an hour or so but good as new now. There are a couple of snapped bolts that hold the undertray on, I didn’t snap them, so will do the same with those tomorrow afternoon. If anyone needs to do the same and doesn’t know how to do it, drop me a pm and I’ll explain. Good mains drill, cobalt drill bit set in 0.5 increments, a tap and die set, a helping of patience and the knowledge of how to do it is needed. And a new bolts of course. Overall I’m well pleased, next weekend………………new shocks and top mounts is the plan.

I believe it is a hunter system, Lexus Bolton will be doing it and I’m pretty sure I saw Hunter on the wheel sensor things and on the display. All the bushes were knackered on the suspension arms, 3 camber bolts seized. On at lease one of the arms the rubber bush was detached from the arm so it just turned inside the arm, probably caused by trying to adjust the camber and the rubber sheared. I can see straight away that the rear wheels are better, the camber was out before (looked like a Triumph Herald😀 but not as bad) and now the wheels are near upright. Just a bit of camber but way way better than before. Turned out a bigger job than expected, seized camber bolts were the problem. Everything else was no problem really. Next is the rear strut rods, I would have done them at the same time but I need to cut through at least one bolt and I don’t have new bolts so will need to order some. I didn’t expect the bolts to be seized, camber bolts yes but not these.

Started very early assembling as much as I can before using the grinder, couldn’t use it at 6am. 8 o’clock ground through the last camber bolt, fitted new arm, drop link and camber bolts etc, jacked up the hub and tightened camber bolts. Later on I’ll get it on the ramps, recheck camber bolts and torque them up. All ready for alignment next week.

Cheers, the drivers side was more difficult but with the right tools, a grinder and thinking about how to tackle the job it’s a breeze🤣

On it again today, finished work early and started on the drivers side. Drop link needed the grinder treatment to remove, tried once with spanner and Allen key but no chance of removing. Both camber bolts seized and also needed the grinder, there was no chance of adjusting the arms for the alignment. Unless they were spot on to start with but I very much doubt it. One of the camber bolts I cut through one side and the bolt was hammered out ok. The other needs to be cut through both sides, done one side but getting at the other side is an issue cos the arm is in the way. I have new suspension arms so I cut through the arm as close as possible to the bush which just left the bush end. The arm is hollow for weight saving I presume, didn’t know this. Plenty of room now to get the 9inch grinder in and cut through. Job for tomorrow first thing though and when that’s done it’s time for fitting the new arms and drop link. Should be done by lunch weather permitting. If all goes to plan I’ll have a look at doing the shocks as well.

Started the job after work today, jacked up the passenger side rear, tried to remove the rear strut bar- body side bolt…….no chance and the bolt needs cutting through with a grinder. The bush is knackered so that will be done another time, maybe over the weekend. On to the lower suspension arms after making ‘match marks’ on the camber adjustment washers with a permanent white paint pen so I could put them back as they were. Won't be spot on at all but will be good enough until aligned correctly. Starting with the ‘Problem’ arm, number 1 on the parts diagram, I had to cut through the camber bolt with the grinder on one side then I could knock out the bolt and remove the arm. The mounting bracket for this on the rear subframe needed some work, the metal profile, which the camber adjustment relies on for adjustment, was a bit bent out of shape. Bit of work with a big adjustable spanner put it right. I knew this needed to be done after looking underneath when Lexus Bolton tried to do the alignment. They couldn’t do it because turning the camber bolt didn’t move the suspension arm, issue was 3 fold…….1 the camber bolt was seized, 2 the bush was knackered and 3 the mounting bracket profile was out of wack a bit. Main issues were the seized camber bolt and knackered bush. New Number 1 suspension arm fitted along with new camber bolt, nut and a helping of copper grease. Torqued up the ball joint at the hub end, new nylock nut fitted of course. On to suspension arm number 2, this has the drop link attached so I disconnected the drop link from the anti roll bar first. Not much of an issue with an allen key and a spanner, took a while though. Removed arm #2 no problem, fitted new arm, fitted new drop link with new nuts. Torqued up the drop link nuts, nipped up both camber bolts for arms 1 and 2 and hub end bolt for arm 2. Tidy up all tools, put wheel back on, torque up wheel nuts and lower the car onto the ground. Reversed onto ramps, adjusted camber bolts on arms 1 and 2 to align with the ‘match marks’ and torqued up, torqued arm 2 bolt at hub end. Checked all nuts and bolts again to make sure and drove forward off the ramps. Passenger side done now, apart from strut bar, so after work tomorrow I’ll do the drivers side and attempt the strut bar. Should be straightforward for arms 1 and 2. Not doing the UCA’s but I may tackle the shocks and mounts over the weekend then get the alignment done early next week.

Just had the car on the ramps at the rear to have a good look at the arms and what needs to done and figure out how to do it. I planned to put the car on the ramps and jack up one side so the wheel is free which will give me plenty of room underneath, work on that side and repeat on the other side. After getting the trolley jack under, it isn’t really possible to do that and be sure it’s safe. Ideally I would like to jack the whole rear end up and work on both sides but due to the way my drive is I wouldn’t feel safe doing it. I’ll need to do it the normal way and jack up one side at once, much safer for me. I am going to do all the suspension arms and then planned to maybe do the shocks and UCA’s but after looking where the ball joint is fixed on the UCA’s I’m definitely not doing the UCA’s at the moment. From what I can see the drive shaft needs to be removed or the whole rear hub assembly removed which means disconnecting the drive shaft anyway to get to the ball joint nut. Maybe someone can tell me different though. If I am right, when I decide to do the shocks and UCA’s, I may as well fit the new hub assemblies and bearings as well. That will mean removing the ABS sensors, although they are plastic they can be a pain to remove and the bottom part of the plastic sleeve which goes into the hub can break in. New ABS sensors are not cheap at all…….

Mmmmh, not familiar with the LS460 but I had an issue with the electrics and ECU’s on my 1998 LS400. I did something while driving which confused the electronics, central locking didn’t work, most of the windows wouldn’t work, steering adjustment didn’t work plus other bits. Disconnecting the battery for 5 mins and connecting again reset everything and all was good after. It will have reset the numerous body ECU’s that were confused by what I did. Maybe installing the Grom thing has had a similar effect and disconnecting the battery for a while and reconnecting will sort it, if not already done and if it’s ok to do this on an LS460 without causing any issues.

Thanks, it's also a 'I won't be beaten and will get it done' attitude😂 no matter what!

Alignment didn’t happen this morning, rear suspension needs to be rebuilt first due to issues with the rear camber bolts. One isn’t moving the arm so I think the bolt is seized and probably the bush is knackered as well. I had a good look at it all earlier and was going to start it but decided against it. So on Friday after I finish work I’ll get cracking on it and hopefully get it done over the weekend. If it goes into the next week it won’t be an issue and I’ll carry on after work that week. I plan to only do the lower suspension arms but I’ll see how it goes and maybe do the shocks and UCA’s.

Cheers, the trans mount cured a slight wobble I felt through the drivers seat when sat at the lights in neutral. It wasn’t bad just annoying. Is it smoother overall………difficult to decide because I replaced so much at once. But it is smoother I think and no noises that shouldn’t be there from the front end anymore I had a slight shake on the steering wheel around 65/70mph, thought it was wheel/s out of balance but that seems to have gone now. Read somewhere that the front UCA’s can cause this. The steering rack bushes look perfectly ok on mine as well, I was just going to change them cos I have them. If I have to unmount the steering rack and drop the subframe to fit the engine mounts then I’m not in a hurry to do them. I hadn’t looked at it but I thought the engine mounts can be removed by unbolting the top brackets from the engine while taking the weight of the engine underneath, looks like that’s not the case. I got the engine mounts because of the slight wobble through the drivers seat mentioned above but the trans mount cured it so no panic to do them. New track rod ends being fitted tomorrow then wheel alignment so will drive better, it’s a bit jiggly at the moment. New thermostat will be fitted tomorrow - next week or so the aircon leak on the sight glass will be fixed, new drier fitted and the re gassed - rear suspension rebuild will be done soon, all the new arms etc have have 2 coats of Por-15 ( they look beautiful and shiny in gloss black, be a shame to fit them to the car and get dirty) There are a few other bits and pieces to be done and new parts to be fitted, I can’t remember what they are at the moment😀