Howplum

I have at last collected the SC430 wheels. The wheels themselves will need refurbishing, but thankfully the covers are not too bad, with only a few minor blemishes. The seller also included a pair of 15mm spacers, although I have had to order a set of shallow nuts and some chrome dome nuts before I can do a trial fit. I imagine that the brushed metal finish on the plastic covers would be impossible to replicate, so I might give them a gloss clear coat to prevent further deterioration. Or I could paint them the same colour as the wheels, or some other finish, such as dark grey to match the lower panels.

The sill flanges are now looking better after straightening, treating the rust and applying Rustin's metal paint. I also applied underseal to the inside face of the flanges and injected some cavity wax, just in case. However, removing the dents would not be easy because there is no access from the top of the sill, so I decided to live with them, especially as they are hidden by the plastic sill covers.

This company might be worth a try: http://www.jttautotech.co.uk/air-con/ It looks like a comprehensive service they offer for £75.

I've wanted to repaint my Lexus ever since I bought it three years ago, although I did experiment with localised repairs in the meantime, although was never really happy with the results.. There are blemishes on nearly every panel but mercifully little rust, which is limited to small scabs under a couple of window trims and one front wheel arch. I thought I would start with the lower panels, which are dark grey. Removing the door claddings, wing claddings, front mudflaps and sill covers was fairly straightforward, although perhaps only Lexus would use four different types of fixings on a mudflap! They also used what turned out to be single use push in fixings on the sill covers, so I have ordered some more, although not from Lexus! If anybody is interested in more detailed information about removal I would be happy to include it. Just ask I was already aware that there are issues with the sill, mainly due to ham-fisted grease monkeys not using the correct split block when jacking the car. As well as distortion this has caused the flanges between the sill and floor to separate in a couple of places, but should be fixable. One corner even has a slight buckle in the floor, which I'm not sure if I can fix. There is also plenty of surface rust, but nothing too severe. It looks like I'm going to be busy for a while sorting out the sills before I make a start on any painting. More to follow, as and when.

Is the testing station one you have used before? Theoretically it's possible to have a second test to get another opinion, but because your car is not to be driven it means getting it transported. Another option is an independent professional opinion on the fractured near side subframe at least. You have 14 working days to appeal to DVSA. It does seem odd/suspicious that such rampant rust has manifested itself after only 12 months so it would appear that the current MoT tester and the previous one are poles apart on the matter of rust. Surely it would take several years for rust to actually cause the subframe to actually fracture. The LS400 is well known for the rear subframe to suffer from bad surface rust, as opposed to internal corrosion. Good luck!

If it offers nothing over and above the Honda Legend then you have probably made the right decision. So, is it back to an SC430 or similar?

I try not to spend more on the car than it's worth, that way my "financial director" can be appeased. So far it's working well on the various cars I have rejuvenated since retirement, so I call it a self financing hobby. A rising market helps, of course. Having said that though, I have no plans to sell the Lexus because it's the best car I've ever owned, and I've had a fair few!

A suspension overhaul is on my "To do" list, and may be accelerated by the fitment of bigger wheels. As far as I can tell a good air ride system is more than the value of the car! I notice someone on eBay is selling a used set of HSD coilovers for £500, whereas new ones are less than £700.

I think the larger wheels (18"?) look more appropriate to the size of the car, and the 30mm drop helps too. I removed my front lips because they were damaged, and personally I think the front looks better without them. Do the bigger wheels have the standard ET of 45? Did you use spacers?

These are some "off the shelf" springs I have found which are available from various sources. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RS-R-Down-T282D-Lowering-Springs-for-Toyota-Celsior-UCF20-FR-2WD-94Oct-96July-/185191492752?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p4429486.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 I'm going on a cruise around Japan next year. I wonder..........?

Will do

Do you have any pictures Keiran?

The cost of custom springs would be about £100 each. Off the shelf lowering springs are available from overseas, but would end up costing more, by the time VAT and duty is included. HSD coilovers are about £700, but obviously include shock absorbers and are adjustable. BC coilovers are dearer. I will fit the wheels, with 15mm spacers, and see how it looks first.

It's 2002. https://www.thecarwarehouse.co.uk/vehicle/1476/toyota-crown Have a look at their other offerings.

Or possibly a Toyota Crown estate?: https://www.motors.co.uk/car-59709974/?i=3&m=sp

Or maybe a BMW 6 series convertible?

Excellent. What is the main difference between that and the original exhaust? Fewer silencers? In which case less is definitely more!

I've just noticed that the delivery prices are to Malaysia, where I am on holiday at the moment. Sometimes a smart phone is just TOO smart for it's own good!

On Amayama's website there are various options for complete arms, but the prices shown will be subject to VAT and duty, although should still end up cheaper than buying them through the dealer, although obviously they won't fit them! Amayama also list Febest bushings, which is obviously much cheaper. I am assuming that as Amayama are listing them that is some sort of endorsement, but I could be wrong. Also, it seems that Febest are pretty much the only supplier for separate rubber bushings as far as I can tell As I understand it all bushings supplied by PSB have a hardness rating of 90ShA, which MIGHT be harder than the original rubber/steel bushing and so possibly affect the ride. However. poly bushings are easier to fit and allegedly last longer. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4864050050

I will be removing my bumpers sonn for repainting, so hopefully all will be revealed then.

Early 50s Chevy?

How about a Lexus IS250 convertible? Preferably in red, as featured in Last Tango in Halifax a few years ago.

Having done more research it looks as though 15mm spacers are required at the front, either using hubcentric ones with studs fitted or by replacing the original studs with longer ones and using different spacers. No doubt the rear will need spacers as well, if only for the need for aesthetic symmetry. As for lowering, that is something that I may consider in the future. I have found a company in Sheffield that will create custom springs, using the originals as templates, although subtlety will be watchword here. Perhaps not quite as subtle as the DHP's alleged 10mm though. I'm thinking 25-35mm.

Unfortunately I can't find a link. However, I drilled a small hole in the face of the cluster, just a millimetre or two above the needle's normal position when off, and inserted a small length of suitable gauge wire, which I painted satin black. This acted as a mechanical stop and worked well.

I was thinking of installing something like this: https://www.hawkcaralarm.com/catalog/no-holes-invisible-in-bumper-electromagnetic-parking-sensors-kit