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Howplum

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  1. If that's true that would be great. I must admit I was going by what I read on US forums, but maybe I shouldn't jump the gun just yet.
  2. Prices seem to be all over the place, perhaps reflecting to some degree the fact that the LS400 is not widely appreciated for what it is like to own and drive, and what a landmark it represented at the time in the luxury car market. A bit like the Rover P4 in fact. Asking prices do seem to be increasing though. I suspect you won't get your costs back, but hopefully someone will appreciate the work you've put in and buy it. Good luck.
  3. I'm buying a set of the 18" SC430 "pie dish" wheels, simply for aesthetic reasons - I like them! I appreciate that they will have an adverse effect on the ride though. Having done a bit of research it looks as though I might need 10mm spacers , at least on the front, to clear the calipers. Can anyone confirm or deny this please?
  4. I agree with all of Steve's suggestions. I ended up replacing both cables on my LS400. My friend, the first owner, never used the parking brake, along with a lot of other drivers of automatic cars, I suspect. Use it or lose it, it saves hassle come MoT time.
  5. If you chose Gliptone then this looks like the product: https://gliptoneeurope.com/product/leather-sealant-lacquer/
  6. It would also be a good idea to remove the inner door trim and treat the inside as well, otherwise the rust might reappear. Access might be tricky though.
  7. In a word, "yes". The procedure is clean, repair, colour and seal. Whichever supplier you choose they should supply a kit to cover the whole process.
  8. I stand corrected. I will check carefully when I remove the panels before the respray.
  9. It's unusual to find that sort of thing, especially on a Lexus!
  10. So presumably it's not bushes otherwise it would show up at MoT time. Is it possible to tell if it's left, right or centre? Culprit might be exhaust, drive shafts or shock absorbers. Hopefully it's not something in the boot or spare wheel well!
  11. There do seem to be a few caliper rebuilding companies listed, but whether they do an exchange service, or rebuild your own, would need checking. I could only find one OE seal repair kit in the UK listed on eBay, although a few are listed in the US, so perhaps Toyota still make them. The calipers listed on Autodoc and their associated websites all appear to be by manufacturers I have never heard of before, even if they in stock. I assume you want to stick with OEM though. Have you asked another local garage if they are willing to refurbish the calipers? It's actually not that difficult once the pistons are extracted.
  12. It's interesting what you say about the cheap coilovers. I have never ridden in a car with air suspension, but can say that my LS400 does not seem to have the magic carpet ride I was led to expect, even though the mileage is only 86,000. This is why I'm hoping to refresh the suspension system and coilovers are on the options list. I'm therefore wondering how the ride might compare between coilovers and standard suspension. Does anyone have any experience of this?
  13. Paul, perhaps it's possible to create a topic under Lexus How-to Guides and copy and paste your text.
  14. I used two pliers to remove the hog rings, otherwise they have tendency to spin. Likewise reinserting the rings. There are specific hog ring pliers to insert them, because they're more commonly used for fencing, which presumably means the existing ones could be cut. I'm sure some of us will be interested in your progress on the non-functioning seat heaters.
  15. Thank you Paul for going to the trouble of compiling the information. Very useful.
  16. I had exactly that problem on a Mercedes-Benz SL and cleaning the sensor solved the issue.
  17. I don't remember exactly how I removed them from my '96 LS400, but I do remember that it was not particularly difficult. This topic might help: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-3rd-gen-2001-2006/746841-how-to-remove-the-exterior-lower-door-panels-on-our-cars.html
  18. I suppose the two tone effect helps to break up any "slab sided" effect caused by the lack of crease lines or adornments. It was used by Mercedes-Benz at the time, albeit with a satin finish to the lower panels. Stan, this might help: Apologies Kieran, I seem to have taken this completely off topic!
  19. I suppose the two tone effect helps to break up any "slab sided" effect caused by the lack of crease lines or adornments. It was used by Mercedes-Benz at the time, albeit with a satin finish to the lower panels.
  20. The lower plastic cladding is quite easy to remove in fact. Are they going to be body colour or the original complimentary colour? I'm going to repaint my black '96 and am in a quandary whether to go all black or stay black and grey. "I used to think I was indecisive but now I'm not so sure!"
  21. Here's one, at a price! https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/lexus-wheel-assy-steering~45100-50102-e0.html I think the USA is your most likely source, unless a UK breaker comes up trumps. Here's a previous topic on this forum:
  22. It would be interesting to hear your observations on the ride quality after the coilover suspension is fitted. I notice there are no instructions, so setting it up correctly could be fun! It is much cheaper than well known makes though, and a way of solving the suspension issue at a reasonable cost.
  23. The body shop have really gone to town on the dismantling. Presumably leaving the rear screen in is a question of expediency. Even removing the door external window trim is more complicated than most, necessitating removal of the glass first. Are those DHP 17" wheels? I see you have LED bulbs at the rear - are they better?
  24. I intend to overhaul my suspension at some point and have been looking into polyurethane versus rubber bushings. There are pros and cons for each, assuming originality is not required. The polyurethane ones are easier to fit and potentially will last a long time, although there might be slight reduction in ride quality. For the polyurethane I narrowed my options to one manufacturer, Strongflex, who offer two hardness levels on most bushings. Their red bushings are 80 ShA and the yellow ones are 90 ShA. They do a front suspension kit for £155 which contains a mixture, which they say equates to the equivalent OEM items. They don't seem to offer the upper arm bushings separately. As for rubber, Febest seem to offer a comprehensive range, although they do require a press to fit.
  25. The bushes are Febest, as sold be Amayama and others. The ball joints are unbranded, so possibly caveat emptor applies. Unfortunately product feedback on eBay isn't widely used, maybe with good reason.
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