McShmoopy

I reckon you may be right, I’ll have to arrange taking it to a garage. I had a week off to do some DIY and other work so thought I could tackle the job myself 😂

Thanks for the info, it may well be worth seeing a mechanic although I don’t know if it’s brake related as such because the noise comes from driving and when I hit the brakes no noises at all and they work well. I have heard of shims but I didn’t know it was a requirement to get them as I figured the brake pads alone would be fine. in terms of the calliper, yes I did mean the slider pin and have now freed it as that was seized up. The huge amount of heat coming from the wheel has now gone but I don’t know if the grinding noise is normal or not. i record a quick audio clip of the noise if that helps, happens when driving and reversing. Grinding noise driver side rear .zip

Small update for everyone, I ordered the clip and despite it looking different to my existing one I lost I managed to fit it on. The sliding bolts for the calliper have holes in them which this pin fits into rather than wedging behind sliding bolts and the the middle brake pad hole. Unfortunately two new issues have now become apparent. Upon driving the car with the window down yesterday I noticed an almost burning smell, I took a look at the calliper on the driver side I didn’t need to unseize and it looks like upon changing the brake pads it’s completely seized up. There was a large amount of heat coming from the rotor / wheel compared to the other three. This morning I’ve took a hammer to the calliper for a good 20 minutes and managed to free it up, regrease all the components for it and fitted it back on no problem. After that I’ve just taken the car for a quick drive with the window down and noticed a horrible grinding noise on the very same driver side rear brake, to say I’m not annoyed is an understatement! I’m thinking it could be the rotor because compared to the passenger side this one looked extremely worn out and rusty in comparison. But to my knowledge this wasn’t happening yesterday so it could be something I’ve missed? As far as I know it didn’t do this yesterday but I did get caught in some rain when sorting the calliper out, so I managed to get a bin bag over the whole disc and wiped away the water droplets that did get on. here’s a photo I took of it during the last few days. anyone have any indication what it could be? EDIT: Took the wheel off again to investigate, can’t see any issues with the brake pads, maybe it’s because the calliper I’ve now freed the calliper it’s making the noise? Provided a recording with my iPhone hanging out the driver side window [[Template core/global/editor/attachedAudio is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]] Grinding noise IS250.zip

I could be wrong but I believe you may need Toyota tech stream to enable options like this, my 2010 IS250 F Sport does the auto locking when you reach a certain speed and perhaps when you put it into Park it unlocks the car. If that is the case you'd need to get one of those OBD VCI cables to plug into the vehicle as well as a windows laptop, if you'd rather not part with £40/50 for one of those you're welcome to pop down and use mine haha.

Success! A big thanks to everyone, following on from the advice about bleeding the brakes I did the rear passenger side and then rear driver side. I didnt bother with trying to bleed the front brakes as they weren't touched =. My suspicion was correct that there was alot of air in the rear drivers side brakes. After this the car seems to be braking as it should, it seems a tad less firmer than it was before but I'll put that down to bedding the brakes in. Within 50 miles or so should do from what I've read up. I was careful to make sure the brake fluid was topped up to max but I only needed to use very little in the end. Unfortunately I did make one blunder, it seems I've managed to lose one of the brake pad clips for the rear passenger side, Doh! I had it in a magnetic parts tray alongside all the other bits to make sure it didnt get lost or misplaced, however the only thing I can think of that it was a very windy day when I started doing this so it may have flown off somewhere beyond my driveway. Thankfully its only the top clip and not the one at the bottom so I could get away with it however I'm ordering a new one for good measure from Lexus to make sure there are no issue as I did notice theres a slight noise coming from the rear passenger side, could be the brake pads Im guessing. Edit: Managed to get the clip ordered via Lexus Nottingham for £7 and should be here by the morning!

I think that happened because the piston was completely out of the calliper and the rubber gasket seal wasn't covering up the edges, I ended up sorting this by pushing it back in by hand and it seemed to be fine after that. The passenger side I didn't have any issue with that happening with the Piston so I suspect I may have loosened it up accidentally!

Thanks for the guidance everyone, I'll head to Halfords and get one of those Brake Bleeding kits and give it a go in the morning!

I suspect it may have been this as I noticed the piston on the driver side was pretty much misaligned and letting out quite a bit of fluid. As I didn’t touch the front brakes would it be necessary to bleed those also or shall I just stick with the rear brakes? If I recall I believe you have to do it in a sequence furthest away from the driver seat.

Apologies I had a typo I meant the piston not the reservoir 😂 I did keep an eye on the fluid and it didn’t seem to overflow or go beyond the max line from what I can see. So not quite sure why the brakes are spongey, could be air or does the fluid need topping up?

Hi everyone, first of all thank you so much for the guidance it’s been greatly appreciated! I’ve managed to get the new pads on. It took a combination of completely depressing the piston and feeling up the sliding pins as they were quite seized up. The right driver side seemed to accommodate the pads fine after depressing the piston however the left one required me to remove the Aldi of pins, grease them up and put them back in. Even that wasn’t enough and I had to bash the back of the pins with a hammer to give just about enough room to get the left hand pads in. one thing I’ve noticed however is my brakes seem to be very spongey upon use, no squeal but I suspect the brakes need to be bedded / broken in? It’s worth noting I did have quite a lot of fluid come out of the Piston on the driver side so will I need to top up the brake fluid for the car?

Hey guys Noticed my rear brakes were squealing like anything, so bought some Brembo brake pads from Euro Car Parts and took the time to try and fit them myself. There were many well documented videos on how to do this so thought it’d be fairly simple. Unfortunately I cannot seem to get my pads to fit. There seems to be plenty clearance for the inner pad however for the outer one there is not enough room for me to fit a pad in there. I have depressed the pistons in as much as I can by hand but no matter what I do there doesn’t seem to be a way for me to get clearance for the outer calliper to accommodate the brake pads. I tried this for the driver side and I got very frustrated thinking I may have messed something up, however I took the time today to look at the passenger side and it’s the same situation there. The old pads are extremely worn down so they’re skinny enough to fit into the calliper. I don’t know if this is a calliper issue as I do know these seizing up is a common thing and until it’s sorted I won’t be able to drive the car. Can anyone provide any guidance for this? I’ve not been able to take many photos but here are the few I did. One is showing the clearance I have for the calliper on the left being non existent but plenty on the right. And im comparing the thicknesses of the old pad versus the new one.

Haha thanks for providing the alternate link Herbie! I run Safari myself so explains why the website works perfectly for me

I''ve been looking into this for a while, from what I gathered once upon a time you couldn't LPG convert a direct injection vehicle. However modern systems like PRINS can do this and I have seen around 3 LPG Converted IS250's in the wild. I'd take it to a reputable place, one place a member on the forum recommended was these guys. http://lpgc.co.uk/index_files/Page743.htm I'm going to see how the fuel situation is and if its still bad next year I will bite the bullet and get a conversion done.

I had this situation with my mums IS250C, her tyre punctured but instead of using the expensive and very overpriced repair kit I brought my spare wheel from my own IS250 and used that. After this incident I was able to source a spare wheel for £50 or so and it does fit into the IS250C space, the only thing is the original storage tray will not fit in without some modifying it. Try and see if you can get a wing nut and spare wheel from a breaker as your IS250C will come with with a jack and spanner.

That’s good to know regarding your friend, I may look to get those smoked LED reflectors although I may not necessarily wire them up but just use the reflector part. The inner LEDs should provide energy reflectivity but I’ll do some testing and see how I get on 👍🏼

Thats for the input everyone, its something for me to consider doing. One idea I had was wrapping the existing reflectors in some window tinting film to darken them slightly but still allow them to function as reflectors. I suppose MOT time I'll know for certain if this is passable or not

Hi everyone, hope you're well. I've never particularly liked the look of the rear reflectors on the back of the IS250 and aside from changing my bumper out to an IS F, one option I considered was smoking the reflectors but I'm not quite sure if these are road legal or not. The two options I've seen are just smoked black reflectors, and those with the LEDs in for the brake lights. I'm not a fan of the LEDs in the reflectors look but is that a way people keep it road legal? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362298046780?epid=27018242011&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item545aa5793c:g:CkAAAOSwUtJiO1eH&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4CizaMAc2nBMv1tMUTfCP28%2Fj9hSlPL2nXf5ikZCPYHojV7HjxGX8KKVvZLeTo2%2FFhw7Z89J3NH30Dl1LsFLxJGWLql6f%2F78hixjcbCetzkxwl4SheyKDPQ4odcju92lWV6j324PErENAinTzJnVKQi3%2F1BPx%2BGL2nHmJaELTL2OS9x%2BX6sH7LuXej55fHuOm9vFueSpBsycfV5BR%2F3fXpKa3CR0usi8BbravM%2BZCplJiXOEGQ%2BGnCy3cjnMFSCgQ7uzXQsBFDaJqywWY6G6cZf0pZhoNA602WgFE0rfNPY0|tkp%3ABFBM6tODpf9f https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304109496924?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item46ce56aa5c:g:2jYAAOSwdK1hG2q1&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA8L6HcH2PKtUg3bG90sIGcoqIvp0S79MJofSvmN8QI8guqr6U2qsEz%2BhoPIpYQCra%2Bp33jl7oc6boehQFPHGcMJYUavtepQQot1fzC5LKZXZCCNBO5VeqZ6UsIFYZoYlCInxZCv2wx1N%2Fdqmr6lvlDX%2BXpQmxNvLQ23gnzIDFSAB5%2Fcsy1vRSReGMhIyu65v4PY6ZYfwH92P%2F8PxjQ6H14VznOCLJ15Aeu0XCoKWazFwEDHOWJs7UhDzaR3SCw7zmuLZ5tUOsLFFwFpPfG70sFLLec442LkM%2BwMw6jt4rA6uIvhz%2BsQX04cWul67M75SWxw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMlN6Gpf9f Does anyone here have any experience with this at all, any input would be greatly appreciated. 🙂

Congrats on the car it looks rather good! Unsure about the mirror but for the parking sensor try turning it off and on a few times and getting close to an object or have someone stand in front to activate it. When i picked up my mums is250C I noticed the parking sensors weren’t beeping as they had been turned off but it took a few minutes of messing around with them to get them operational

I've got the smoked version of these fitted on my 2010 IS250 F Sport, aside from the lack off weather seals on them they work wonderfully and look very slick. Not had to do anything with the resistors as any facelift car has the LED tail lights as standard so this shouldn't result in any engine lights or errors occurring.

Looks impeccable Ahmed, all your tasteful mods have probably given you the best 2IS in the country!

Cheers mate, honestly the weather has been so bad and I've had so little time to clean the car so it does look horrendous! I'm planning on doing some paint correction and applying a ceramic coating in the future so when that happens it'll definitely be photoshoot time. 😏

Cheers mate, I had been wanting to post a few updates for a while but just been so busy recently! Hopefully I’ll be more on it with posting going forward

Onto the final major mod I've done recently, you'll notice in the above photo I managed to fit some VLAND headlights and this was done quite some months ago in October. Unfortunately I ordered some VLAND tail lights to go alongside these and to this day I have still yet to receive them! I'm currently needing to chase those up but in the meantime I spotted a new set of tail lights on the market in America and China, namely the HC Motion Tail Lights. What was special about these was not only did it have an animation when the headlights come on, but they were also sequential indicators unlike the VLAND tail lights. There is a cool little comparison video of all the tail lights lights available for the second gen IS I'll link below. After I spotted this I managed to order them from Ali Express and I received them a few days ago. Took around 2 months for shipping from China and I opted for the Smoked versions as I figured with a black car these would look great. I won't bore you with the details of how to fit them, but I will include videos from Tuner with Kids for the tail lights and Marty Motoring for the VLANDS in terms of how the fitting was done. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003445550208.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802awR4Qt I did attempt to add some T shaped weather seal for the HC motion tail lights as they don't come with that, however the ones I purchased were a catastrophic fail. The original adhesive on this T shaped seal was too weak, so I used my own 3M foam backed adhesive and it ended up way too thick for the tail lights outer potion so I ended up peeling it back off. Most people tend to remove the seals from the OEM tail lights but I didnt want to as this may affect their resale value and incase I had to revert back to them. All this means is that grime and water can accumulate in that area making it more difficult to clean, as far as I'm aware this shouldn't cause any long standing issues or damage to the tail lights. In any case I will have to revisit this when I get time. After wasting a few hours I managed to fit the HC motion tail lights with relative ease, it is rather fiddly and far less stressful than fitting the original VLAND headlights but the results are fantastic. I'll include the footage of my fitment of the VLAND headlights also. IMG_4839.MOV IMG_6804.MOV Overall both the combo of these headlights and tail lights really helps to modernise the look of the 2IS, the only other thing you could do is a bumper conversion but not only is it quite expensive it does require alot of prep in terms of painting and what not. The HC Motions depending on your year of vehicle may require the usage of resistors, the reason being that in an older vehicle without LED tail lights you can have all sorts of error codes thrown up such as VSC check engine light etc, HC motion thankfully throw these in for you but as my car is a facelift vehicle with the newer LED tail lights this wasn't a requirement for me. The only other prep as I mentioned earlier are the weather seal gaskets which you will need to add on yourself. The boot lid portion still has the gaskets I left on however this is quite noticeable so I will come back to this and redo all the seals then possible. Out of the box the VLANDs do require adjustment of their beams as this doesnt have auto levelling in them compared to the OEM headlights, not to mention AFS will not work so a fuse will need to be pulled to remove that error. The adjustment can be made without dismantling the entire bumper if required, the bolt that is responsible for the height adjustment can be accessed from above with a fairly long flathead and rotating the gear like grooves will increase or decrease the height. Mine could do with further adjusting but that'll be done when I have a bit more free time. Overall the light output seems to be better than the HIDs my car came with but the high beam is a little weak, thankfully I dont need it all that often so its a tradeoff for better aesthetics.

Since my accident, I noticed my front and rear plates were a little mismatched and my OCD naturally kicking in I felt the need to replace these. On top of this I always found the oversized plate provided by Lexus for the back never looked quite right. I took the opportunity to order some fresh Aluminium pressed plates from https://www.number1plates.com/ . They were reasonably priced and I managed to get a few pounds off and they arrived a few days after. I also wanted to get a number plate surround as I hated the look of the number plate screws and wanted to have something cleaner. I have noticed that people have many different branded Number Plate surrounds and there was one available for Lexus's too, however I never really took to that as it had the additional L logos which I didn't think were necessary or symmetrical. I'll link that below incase anyone Is interested in it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174213889416?hash=item288ff4fd88:g:UiIAAOSwr9BfHAz8 This one I did spot on eBay and it really caught my eye for obvious reasons. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323883042039 It had the F sport motif, it wasn't too in your face and I liked the simplicity to it. Once ordered it arrived a few days later and it was onto fitting it alongside my new pressed plates. Unfortunately I didnt quite read the instructions and I managed to break the tabs a little on the new surround, Doh! Aside from that getting the rear plates on was extremely difficult as the original plastic screws broke off and I ended up drilling new holes. There was alot of adhesive stuck behind the old plates so it required alot of persuasion to eventually get it off and the new surround on. With the front I had to break the old plate just to get it off as one of the screw heads managed to break off also. This was easier to secure however as it just took a 10mm screw / nut. Once on they looked absolutely great, you can just about notice where I broke the number plate surrounds but its not worth me ordering a replacement! I'll perhaps get some plastic weld or super glue and sort that out when I get a few moments spare... At the very least if I need to swap the plates it is a heck of alot easier in the future, plus I think they look far smarter and cleaner.

Few other things I got done for the car, one long overdue thing was a Dashcam. I had a cheapo cheap and cheerful Chinese dash cam but I had a few issues with it. The first being that it was quite distracting due it having a screen, the second being that it was wired to the cigarette lighter which is normally fine but I was wanting to have it hard wired to the car and something fairly cheap without an official hardwire kit I wasn't very comfortable using. Enter the Road Angel 3 Halo Pro, this was a Dash Cam I spotted on Amazon and it fulfilled the following criteria for me. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07HXKXLLY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07LB66WCM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1) It didnt have a screen and was fairly slim so not only was it discrete, it wouldnt be distracting me mid drive. 2) The quality was pretty decent and it provided a rear camera also which also had acceptable quality. 3) It has available an official hardwire kit as an option which was very important to me. Other features include a winter mode as well as Wi-Fi, but truth be told from what I've read and my general usage the App is pretty unintuitive and not great to use and the speeds were pretty bad. However for my needs I'm quite happy to pop the SD card out and take it to my computer to obtain footage. I will apologise that I don't have many photos of hard wiring the camera up as I only managed to do this months after purchasing this. I'll include a video of an IS F Member who wired his dash cam in a similar manner to mine. I will include the fuses below I used to wire into via Fuse taps that the hardwire kit came with for good measure. 1 FR P/SEAT LH 30 A Power seat 12 ECU-IG LH 10 A Cruise control, air conditioning system, power steering, rain sensor, antiglare inside rear view mirror, shift lock system, moon roof, tire inflation pressure warning system, (& VSC (2011-2013 Once installed and configured for hard wire mod in the pretty awful Halo Pro app, the dash cam seemed to work great. I've got audio notifications of when the Dashcam is operational, GPS is connected and when it shuts down to protect the car battery from draining. The footage seems to be quite good also both at night time and day time, and you do have the option to record audio as well as not use it. Not to mention it is fairly discreet and you wouldnt notice it aside from the blinking LED which could always be disabled in the settings. I'll include some of the footage below for your viewing pleasure. outputVideo.MOV outputVideo 2.MOV outputVideo 3.mp4