Ozzay

Caliper changed as well today. 18 for vented discs (310mm). Changed pins on the other side. Charged me £72. Does drive a bit better I think

Awful site lol Think it should be 18 since the brake disc is 18mm.

That one does not come with a sliding kit. These are my brake discs: https://www.halfords.com/car-parts?cgid=297006&pid=104821188&_gl=1*gj11j1*_up*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAiAv9ucBhBXEiwA6N8nYNA56DdsFRx5nKxCD0c1uJBhxBlqytBRtJr5hET_vbGjKIXcAUo1ZxoC24wQAvD_BwE I need rear drivers side with sliding kit not sure if the carrier is needed as well. I have found this one because I can't find the originals for these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274391312519?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3Dcc8c4e5c20a04229a8dc2b2d46b31445%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D274312006736%26itm%3D274391312519%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeedKnnRecallV1%26brand%3DQuality&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A274391312519cc8c4e5c20a04229a8dc2b2d46b31445|enc%3AAQAHAAABIMFr2e4EmAnM%2ByHZkULYKDIJ4L66fOjNL0iupgt%2BzO1%2F3AE1t3mNirUYB96NktMCicMagiS6mbeTl0xquGODv9mMqbFiOENC3kBi5ShUKeZxm8S%2FskcU69J1QslippYj8m1R1K4Cw2VdPB0Y%2Fwc2zZTBUfaf3c9MRwG1GeFwNtPxesPLyDul3nPKs6lsBgfVaEOG1U6yHy0fDGPa1rM%2BSqhVf3DPa7zVeIdYZ%2FGUuSXzVwwZYULFeESNk8CYhVI3OPpUMVvDxfw1q6e6cozOn%2BQ6CizeDoT6IuQNm9KuB8eOm%2BNffXneRCB1WngHSr5S%2F5eUM%2FDNr%2BrU0rVfyTKhgkSsJMsRyABIc2AdfSc66xTEDfdN9Bib6ou%2FvGckEcEA4g%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675

In other news I see you moved from London to Manchester.

Do you know what the caliper number is? One seller said he needs to know the caliper number stamped on the current on in the car. Was not sure. Discs are vented will these fit? I asked the seller if it comes with the sliding pin kit as well. In your opinion are these going to last?

Took your advice on doing that first bit.

I would if I had my own front drive/garage but not on the road. I can be very clumsy and in case something happens I don't want to leave things there. I do DIY stuff normally but with the car because I will be learning I know it will take me quite a while.

Good news. Thanks to the sound advice from the forum and the positive one in that the car should be repaired. Got the intake manifold gasket seal replaced, alignment and balancing done for £278.00. WALAAAA. No more rough idle. Perfect idle now. There were two other issues the mechanic found. One which was a spark plug connector which was loose which he sorted (broken connector). This other connection was loose with something green on top which was behind the spark plug connector don't know what that was. I don't know which of these fixed the idle I will have to speak to him since I got the car and he was not around. Car drives much much better. Smoother and pulls better. Much less vibration now. Slight vibration still there but forgivable (steering). Caliper replacement still not done (could cause vibration). So for REAR Drivers side full caliper and sliding pin kit is needed I have vented discs need to buy the right one. The passenger rear sliding pins are seized fortunately I already have a kit to replace them with. Does anyone recommend a aftermarket one or shall I go for original.

Yes I did it at 86,000 miles roughly. Full 5+ litres of oil changed. Original fluid Aisin I think it was with the new filter and gasket seal around the pan. Made a difference. Could tell it was smoother and it definitely pulled better. This was back in 2021 June/July.

When my passenger side rear caliper changed, when reversing I heard a clunking noise. It could be something to do with the caliper/pins, just a guess. I had this problem as soon as they fitted a Pagic Caliper new pin sliding kit. The latest mechanic who specializes in Lexus/Toyota said the caliper has been seized (pins).

Is this including labour?

The rough idle was caused by a mechanic who changed my spark plugs and suggested the rocket cover seals should be replaced because of oil leaks. He then took on the job a month after the spark plug job. I detected the rough idle shortly after and he didn't have a clue as to what to do. He was acting like he knew it all when I gave him suggestions and then blamed the fuel injectors for being dirty. He did a poor job of putting screws back on and guiding the wires through the brackets properly and he even missed putting the ground cables on properly (as found by another mechanic who I know personally). Lexus dealer would have charged £600 for the replacement including parts and now that I think about it that would have been the better choice but that's hindsight. Someone also suggested to me don't bother changing the seals but I thought its preventative maintenance But the issue with these mechanics is, they don't know about Lexus caliper's well enough and this is why I went to a specialist. Too many cowboy mechanics out there. I think the suggestions from everyone here is positive because I have looked for other cars and I wouldn't find a car like this for at least 10-15k and that would have to be a BMW which is used which probably would get more money thrown at it because I do take care of the cars I have. A friend of mine has a BMW 520D bill to replace a heater unit/component which has previously failed on cheaper parts which is costing £500 including labour, that does make me feel better but I need to think about being realistic as well. I think the advise from @Spock66is good. I will do the work on the intake manifold first see if it fixes the issue and then see if the cars worth keeping.

The rough idle only happens when the car is warmed up and then I am standing still (D,N,P). Sometimes the car will hesitate as well but overall still good but not like before. Good advice.

Thanks for the replies. I was thinking about skipping the passenger rear caliper as that was the one that was changed and it is new I might just change the pins instead.

By the way I know the calipers are what drives the price here high and he said he will only get them from Lexus dealers as he does not use the aftermarket stuff.

Hi, I had a previous post once showing my costs of ownership. I have a new repair bill. I went to someone proper to have a look at the car because the car was vibrating at the steering. I also had a rough idle after the new gasket seals were put on both rocker cover L + R and tube gasket seals 6. It gets rough after being warm and car vibrates and shakes. Still have not found the problem even after taking it to a family friend who is a very good mechanic and found the electrical ground was not connected, he found no vacuum leaks either. I have gone to a specialist who knows Lexus cars and this guy has been working at Lexus for a long time and has his own garage (Lex/Toy specialist in London). He has quoted me this: Description Quantity Amount Labour 2 rear caliper + brake bleed 2 £120.00 Labour replace intake manifold gasket 1 £80.00 Labour wheel alignment full 4 + balance 2 front tyres 1 £80.00 Rear caliper 2 £369.28 Manifold gasket 1 £71.80 £865.30 There is no guarantee the vibration will go away of course the tyres need balancing and alignment according to him based on the way the tyres have been eaten at the front. But what if there is a steering rack issue not that he said there is one. He put it under the ramp and saw the driver rear calliper was seized which I could see because it was rusted badly and this is the one I previously was told to repair. The other calliper passenger rear was put on in March and it was aftermarket new and I had to find the top pin because it was difficult and this one has seized. Basically next time the brake pads are changed it will be difficult. Aside from the vibration which might get fixed by wheel balancing and alignment and the rough idle is the car worth keeping or repairing? Here is my current spend so far on it which I showed in a previous post: Date Parts Mileage Cost Aquired on 11/01/2021 First fuel was Shell 99 Octane Last service on purchase 2018 Purchase Halfords 12/01/2021 Castrol Magnatec 5W30 A5 Oil 4 Litre x2 £35.00 Purchase EuroCarParts 12/01/2021 Crosland Air Filter, Bosch Oil Filter, Crosland Cabin Filter £31.61 Service 16/01/2021 Crosland Air Filter, Bosch Oil Filter, Crosland Cabin Filte, Oil Magnatec A5 £30.00 Wheel Alignment 20/01/2021 Only front wheel was slightly off, not too bad. All green. £40.00 New Front Tyres 03/03/2021 Dunlop Sport Maxx RT 2 225/45 R17 Y (94) X2 £160.00 OBD Home Check 02/03/2021 OBD Reader £0.00 Trans Oil Change Full 11/06/2021 Filter & Gasket Seal & 5L Oil (Aisin Gearbox Fluid) £280.00 Brakes 22/06/2021 Pagid Front Brake Discs and Pads £170.10 Service 17/08/2021 Engine Oil and Oil Filter (Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 6L) 88413 £115.77 Coolant 4L Roughly Drain/Refill 06/10/2021 Toyota Super Long Life Coolant 89477 £74.88 Service 18/03/2022 Engine Oil and Oil Filter and Air Filter (Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 6L) 93000 £121.79 Brakes 18/03/2022 Pagid Rear Brake Discs and Pads 93000 £127.19 Driver Rear Caliper Repair 18/03/2022 N/A 93000 £80.00 New Passenger Rear Caliper 25/03/2022 Purchased Pin Sliding Kit (Toyota Parts and eBay) + Pagid Caliper 93050 £149.18 Wheel Alignment 05/04/2022 No issues (check only) £20.00 OBD Home Check 29/04/2022 OBD Reader 93000 £0.00 Spark Plugs (Original Denso) + Labour 11/05/2022 Lexus Parts Direct and £60 Labour 93111 £143.98 Oil Additive 11/05/2022 STP Oil Treatment X2 £11.00 Hydraulic Additive 12/05/2022 Wynns Hydraulic Lifter Fluid £10.00 Car Body Repair 04/05/2022 £220.00 Gasket Seal Repair 20/06/2022 Tube Gasket Seals and Rocker Cover Gaskets 93600 £300.00 2 front ball joints 15/07/2022 Both sides 94400 £200.00 2 Rear Tyres 23/09/2022 Goodyear Rear Asym 5 97000 £290.00 Service and Fixes 15/10/2022 Mobil 1 Oil and + Filters + Checks and Fixes 98151 £101.00 Hydraulic Additive 16/10/2022 Wynns Hydraulic Lifter Fluid 98151 £10 Car Cost £2600 Maintenance £2,721.50 TOTAL £4,720.50 By the way I know the calipers are what drives the price here high and he said he will only get them from Lexus dealers as he does not use the aftermarket stuff. Also there is no guarantee that the intake seal will fix the rough idle he just said you should always change it. Seems like a genuine guy.

Still can't find the issue. Could not find a vacuum leak. Another mechanic found the terminals from both side were not earthed properly. One was no connected (ground) and the other partially tight. Did not fix the issue. Gasket seal looked OK. Did a trip to Scotland (NC500) and the car was returning good MPG and drove OK. Just on stand it starts to idle up and down and vibrate from the engine. I will have to check the MAF sensor by disconnecting it. Throttle body looks OK but not exactly sure. Only once did I get a code for the spark plug at bank 2 misfire but that was just once and it never came back. Not sure if I should replace that spark plug and attempt to get the ignition replaced at that bank. This is one problem I would like to fix. Stupid mechanic that did the seal has been useless. Not sure about the PCV as suggested. Also brake booster etc not sure either.

Nice. I did the NC500 recently got a good 43/44mpg on the motorways. Overall good on fuel throughout the route since its mostly clear driving.

We did clean the throttle body. I got a feeling its something like this as well and a misdiagnosed code. I could do this myself at home I think. But I remember the mechanic did clean it well it did look shiny. Does this car have an IVAC?

I have posted this topic up before but was wondering if any of you had this symptom before. When the car is in drive and stopped the rev after driving a bit can go up and down with the car shaking/vibrating like a heartbeat. When driving the car is fine. Only once it seemed as the gear dropped the rev was going on up and down. Had spark plus changed and the car was fine and better. Post gasket seal change something changed or coincidentally something failed. I don't know what it could be. Air pipes (vaccum) look fine checked with mechanic. Only once the Cylinder 2 misfire code occurred in 2 months alongside the ABS light (how reliable is this or is it misleading). Could be throttle body, spark plug, spark plug coil. Not sure if there is an IVAC. Anyone ever had this issue. The mechanic said he needs me to bring the car back with the code there don't know how that will be helpful to him since I had the screenshot.

First mechanic thought it was tie rods but never had a proper look at it. Went to another mechanic and showed him turned out to be ball joint being a problem on the drivers side so changing both.

I will go through that list with the mechanic. I feel like its suspension because this vibration was there before gasket seal but it seems more after it was changed. Confident with the front tyres. Front tyre was repaired but rebalanced both and alignment is correct. Suspension does not have any knocks or bangs. Got the brakes checked again by the guys that did them with the callipers and they said they seem fine with no play. But definitely can feel something weird sometimes on braking.

Steering vibration is there not majorly but definitely noticeable. Had a gasket seal replaced with the spark plug seals as well. After that I could notice vibration but wasn't sure what caused. Rebalanced front wheels. Verified the brakes and calliper that was put on by the mechanic. Rear tyres still seem fine with about 3mm left roughly. I am not sure if it the tyres. What do you think this could be. Vaccum leak. I don't think engine mounts were taken off to do the seals I did watch the end bit happen. Spark plugs are new as well and original. On a smooth surface it should be feel smooth to me. Its the steering wheel where I can feel it from.

Probably disconnected a lot during the gasket seal replacement and put it back together. Reset ECU again or just leave it you think. I will see after a week if that's what your saying. Anyways Vlad what oil you been using brand and grade? You done a flush?

Post gasket seal change and spark plug change... My car after some fast driving (revving it out) at idle it will sit at around 600-900rpm but then rev counter goes a little up and down and you can feel the car shaking like its pulsating (when stopped and idling and in drive). Not sure what it could be. Oil change about 1200 -1400 miles ago new filters etc. All connections hoses seem to be on fine. Other than this aside from the hydraulic lifter noise car seems to be OK.