AntC

Yes, there is. I found a pic online that shows the second one. Make sure to read the manual since you need to turn both screws rather evenly. I tried adjusting only one and the projector fell down in the headlight housing. Had to open the headlight which is a pain in the ***.

Mine does the same. I think it's completely normal behavior when taking off. For example, of you were driving a manual, the RPM will drop lower as you release the clutch to take off which os why you need to press the gas at the same time. Same with the automatic transmission. For reference, I change my oil at 5k miles and cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor this summer.

Forgot to ask, dis you get the sound only when the car is cold or all the time? Mine only does it for ~5 minutes then it stops. This is what's most puzzling to me.

Unfortunately I'm not from the UK, so buying an alternator there would be too expensive for me with the delivery and import tax. Will still look for the best deal though. Thanks for the help.

Definitely. If it is the original alternator and it's lasted 130k miles, will most certainly buy the Denso one.

If definitely does sound like a bearing which is why I changed the pulleys first. Will google some more on alternator issues and how to diagnose properly. I doubt I'll be able to head to the garage with holidays coming up. Still, would appreciate any additional information before purchasing a new alternator. Thanks for the quick replies!

The car is at 135,000 miles and I've owned it for a a year and a half. Bought it at 120k. Service history doesn't show an alternator change, so its possibly the original one. Can anyone confirm if part number is DAN1354? It's not the cheapest part at ~230£ but better to replace it than having it die on the road. I'm wondering though, why is the sound only audible when cold?

Hey everyone, I've been having this strange sound at cold start for some time and can't seem to figure out what it is. I've changed all the pulleys, tensioner, and belt. Have seen some videos on what the water pump sounds like when going bad, but this doesn't seem to be it. I also have a spare water pump just in case. First time I heard the sound was last summer after the car had been staying under the sun for a day and a half. I have thought about the alternator, since the sound seems mechanical, but charge voltage is ok. The sound is only audible until the car heats up. Would appreciate any tips if anyone has an idea. Video attached. Cheers VID_20211212_130041.mp4

I'm having the exact same issue and can confirm that the pads and calipers are fine. Will check out the handbrake, thanks for the heads up!

I also fitted only one from a BMW, however, the boot doesn't fully open when unlocked at 450nm. It needs just a little push and will then fully open. I'm considering using two new ones but I'm not sure what specs I should go for. Can anyone suggest how much nm I need on both struts so that the boot will open automatically, but will not keep the sides of the trunk wider?

Aa far as I'm aware, such headlights and taillights should come with a CANBUS driver so the system can measure the same resistance as the OEM lights and doesn't think there's anything wrong with the lights. However, even if that's not the case, you may get flickering on LEDs or a check headlights message on your dash. Haven't heard of the check light coming up due to this on an IS2. I'd suggest you hook the car up to Techstream and check the error codes before buying and replacing anything.

Can confirm that you only need to remove the air filter housing. Taking the bumper off is only necessary to remove the entire headlight assembly. Also, if you're aiming for better output, I would advise yellow bulbs in the 3k temperature range. Anything higher going into 4-5k and above will have less output. You can check this website for a lot of useful info concerning different types of bulbs so that you can buy the ones with optimal output: https://bulbfacts.com/halogen-bulbs/chart

Generally HIDs should come with washers since their operating temperature isn't sufficient to melt off snow and ice from the headlights. Although someone could have fitted an HID kit. You can easily tell just by looking at the headlights when you turn them on. If they turn on almost instantly, they're halogens. Xenons will ignite at first and get brighter over a 5-10 second period until they are at their maximum.

Definitely a rather high price, even though it's a facelift model. I got mine last summer for ~3k. 2007 model, 120k miles, almost all features except for AFS and rear shade. While the car looks nice, i think you can do better for this price.

Thanks for the photos Neil! Seems like its fairly easy to access. I'll make sure to clean it up when I get the chance even though mine appears to be working properly. Cheers

I have taken the front bumper apart a couple of times, however, looking at the diagram, I'm not sure I understand where the sensor should be located. Couldn't find any videos on it either. If anyone has cleaned theirs any photos or info would be appreciated. I also found an older thread somewhere on here that mention the sensor sensitivity adjustment menu. To access it, set the air circulation mode to auto, then hold the circulation button until a menu appears on the nav console. There are 7 sensitivity levels in total, the default is medium. I've set it to slightly higher and will test to see if there's a difference. Not sure if this is available on models without the nav console.

I believe the auto air circulation mode takes two things into account. 1. The currently set AC temperature. 2. The air quality outside of the car. When in recirculation mode, the AC can reach the desired temperature more quickly, since air from the outside needs to be processed, hence, the car will stay in recirculation node and then switch the mode to outside air. In heavy traffic conditions, the mode should be changed back to recirculation. At least this is how mine appears to behave. Mind you, the mode doesn't kick in instantly, rather, it may take a few seconds of driving through exhaust fumes before it does. I also believe there is a smog sensor responsible for this, however, I am not aware of its location and potential replacement.

As Herbie said, the refrigerant does not evaporate or wear out. If you had to have the car regassed in the first place, it means you have a leak somewhere. There is also the possibility of the hot/cold air valve not switching completely to the cold position. Also, the AC compressor is using oil of its own that should be changed occasionally to avoid buying a new compressor. However, as others have stated, I would first check for any leaks.

Make sure you don't touch the glass with your fingers, as the grease from the skin will stick to it and can shorten it's lifespan.

@mikes5 You can see this guy, he has a few videos on this: It's bot really a hidden features list, more like features that aren't obvious, but still, I'd say it's worth a watch. Keep in mind that this is the facelift model and not all features are available on all cars As for the voice commands, I find them rather outdated to be honest. I had to use the 'Climate off' command when my AC buttons weren't working, since there was no other way to completely turn off ventilation. Oh boy was that a fun experience, arguing with the car. Also, to use the voice commands, you beed to be on the appropriate screen. For instance, if you want to change the temperature, you need to be on the climate screen. @LenT I also did not realize the deadlocks option. Just tested it on my car and can confirm a click is present when you press the lock button twice. You learn something new every day.

You can use 16, 17, and 18" wheels without any issues. Just make sure they're the correct size for your car. You can also check the correct tyre size from the driver's door sticker. 15" wheels can't fit due to the size of the stock brakes, and I'm not sure if 19" won't be too big. If the car is using bigger brakes than the stock ones, you won't be able to fit 16" as well. Mine came with 18", but I use 16" during the winter. There is not much difference in comfort between the two. However, there is a significant difference in the steering wheel response when you go lower. I would say that 18" wheels are the best option, since the car rides great and is very responsive when turning the steering wheel.

Hey there, have fun with your new car and make sure to floor it from time to time! Regarding the speaker noise issue, I've heard that this can occur if something is plugged into the aux jack in the armrest. Not sure on this so you should google it, I'm positive it's a known issue. The PWR button will make the gas pedal more responsive - car will go faster with less gas. The car will also shift at higher revs as opposed to normal mode. Pressing the lock button once will lock the car, if you press it again while locked, it will simply attempt to lock it again which is why you hear the click sound. If you test this, you should hear that the first click is much more audible as the lock position will change in the inside of the door, while the second time they won't move as much since the doors are already in the locked position. Make sure to watch 'hidden features' videos to see all that the car has to offer. Cheers

Thanks for checking this for me Vlad! I guess I'll take it off again and see what I can do about fitting it better. Will make sure to post an update here once it's solved.

So I occasionally hear a rattle that appears to be coming from the driver's side dash on bumpy roads. So I started pressing and holding panels, since I can't replicate the noise when stationary. Turns out, it's the panel holding the OBD2 port just above the pedals. I took it off to see if there's a loose clip or something and reassembled it, but everything's in place. However, the panel doesn't seem to be staying firmly next to the other panels. When its pushed in, you can see and hear it sort of click into place, but comes loose as soon as you let go. There are no clips or anything holding the panel in the correct position, not even broken ones. Has anyone with a 2IS faced this issue, and if so, how did you solve it? Considering how quiet the car is, this thing is driving me nuts. Video attached. Would also appreciate if someone can take a photo of how their panel sits in place. VID_20210904_132105.mp4

A few days ago I noticed that the starter turned slower when starting the car, but it would start no problem. Checked the built in service menu and alternator would charge 14.1-3, which is fine as voltage should not drop below 13.6. I had the battery measured and it was on full charge, however, the starting power was at 51% - from 70 amps to 35. Decided I would replace it the next day (today) and the battery died the same night. Mind you, I had lights and stereo but the car would not start at all. Replaced the battery today and everything is good. So if you have any doubts in the battery charge, first check the service menu (if using the nav unit). Hold the Info button and flash parking lights on and off 4 times. From memory, you need to go to Nav settings - vehicle sensors and you can see if the alternator charge is above 13.6V. If no issues there, have the battery checked as it could be fully charged, but its starting power could be low.