Sirnixalot

Must've been the combination of having me for a driver for over 2 years and then being forced to deal with a higher capacity pressure plate along with my driving style, but its failing. So far i havent found an aftermarket uprated one. Might have to stick with a new stock unit. But if anyone knows of an uprated one please let me know. thanks

Hey guys...my steering rack is leaking power steering fluid from the inner tie rod boot. I was told i need a new seal kit for the rack to fix it. I'm not sure how else to describe it. It will probably consist of some o-rings and gaskets but i need a part number to get it. Anyone got access to that kind of info? thanks for any help

thanks for the kind words...i should have taken mroe pix but it slipped my mind. If you have any q's on the job hit me up on msn messenger

if its hunting...did you check/adjust the tps sensor?

the clutch pedal does require some more effort. You can still take off smoothly but you have to pay attention and make an effort especially when you are coming off the clutch pedal. My jackstands are island edition LOL. I had 2 proper jack stands at the front of the car along with the cinder blocks... Good luck with yours Am...it wont take them any longer than 2-3hours with a lift and a transmission jack. So if they try to weasle more labour out of you point that out. The things that ook me the longest was filling back up the tranny with oil...i had a REALLY small hose and no funnel so it took me about 45mins. Also i did my clutch line, they will have to unbolt the master cylinder from the transmission but they wont have to disconnect the lines and refil/bleed the system, that too my about 30/45mins (finding a 3rd helper took most of that time.) The stock flywheel weighs 28lbs on its own and the whole assembly weighs in at 40lbs Stock flywheel is 12.72kg TRD flywheel is 6.95kg Stock pressure plate and disk weighs 5.45kg TRD pressure plate and cerametallic disk weighs 7.95kg A 3.27kg savings for me. I'm pretty sure the organic disks are lighter by at least a few grams.

It has finally arrived and i got it in! You will need 17, 14, 12 and a 24mm wrenches and 17, 14 and 12 sockets. Putting the car on a lift is advised but i did it with my car about 2ft off the ground in about 6 hours. Someone with small hands is probably a good friend to find for this job as well. There are 10 bell housing bolts. 4 of them are 17mm and the other 6 are 14mm. The exhaust bolts are all 14mm The exhaust hanger bracket bolts are 12mm The driveshaft/rear diff bolts are 14mm (use red locktite!) The pressure plate bolts are 12mm (use red locktite!) The flywheel bolts are 17mm (use red locktite!) The transmission crossmember bolts are 14mm If you are changing the clutch line you will need a 10mm spanner, a quart or brake fluid (DOT3 or 4) and 2 helpers. 1 to pump the clutch pedal, 1 to fill the clutch master cylinder and the 3rd to open and close the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. Driving impressions so far Pedal effort has increased quite alot. The clutch pedal doesnt feel as dull now with the braided line. I havent stalled the car yet with the cerametallic disk LOL but i can see me getting fed up with it in traffic. Ill bring back some more driving impressions after i put some miles on it. Anyways...on to the pix! Here is everything, flywheel, pressure plate, disk and new release bearing Thre the dvd on there for an idea on the size of the disk semi assembled trd clutch line the trd flywheel, pressure plate and cerametallic disk weigh in at 32lbs. I will weigh the stock setup tommorow the mid pipe had to come out in order to get to the drive shafts carrier bearing support bolts. You will find it easier to remove the drive shaft as one large piece instead of undoing it from the middle. the mid pipes exhaust hanger has to be completely removed to access the drive shaftes carrier bearing support bolts Old ******* stock dual mass flywheel....the face of the flywheel can turn about 3inches independently of the rest of the flywheel. New flywheel being bolted on I didnt get anymore pix as the camera died and i didnt have any batteries near me.

how do you figure a car with 5 more hp toting an extra 115kg of weight will be faster? NA the altezza will always be faster. Boost is a different story...the 2JZge is capable of supporting more boost than the 3sge in stock form. Pulling 600bhp from the 2jz is easier than the 3sge. If i wanted an overweight altezza to pull a trailer...i would get the IS300

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! You will beat me!! Mine was sent out yesterday...will get it in about 3 days :D Ill be doing mine saturday afternoon. I wonder how much prettier my cerametallic clutch disk is than your organic :P

the MR2 or celica GT4 exhaust flanges are different...have to get one cut now

Made a deal with my fabricator...i fix his welder and he makes me a manifold. I wont be going turbo now or any time soon but i would like to have one waiting for the project. Im trying to find out if the MR2's exhaust manifold shares the same flange as the altezza's header. I can find an MR2 flange easily but the altezza ones are non existent. Anyone know? I hope i dont have to take an air grinder to a strip of 1/2" thick steel to make a flange.

Not so on the altezza's. Thats what the whole purpose of the electronic throttle is. It usees the ABS to sense the difference in wheel speed between the front and rear wheels then limits the throttle. I have my traction control disabled. Just cut the 2 wires at the back of the connector and solder them together.

wasnt anything personal....ps...been drooling on is300.net for months over your car...have you finished it?

My car came with an exhaust so i cant tell you what gain i got from it. The intake however made a difference. With the standard airbox and an apexi drop in filter the car would never start to pull till 5000rpm now i have a little more power from around 4250 rpm or so. I have the heatsheild as well that makes a difference on hot days (england..hot hahahahahaha) or after some spirited driving. My decat gave me a few hp up top...didnt feel anything in the low end improved. The car is definately more drivable now. I cant wait till i get the C-one header, its got the largest diameter runners out of all the brands (bar the TRD racing header). I want top end so thats fine for me. If you want to help out the mid and low some more grab an HKS type 2 (i think its the type 2) header...its a 4-2-1 design and the runners are a few mm smaller in diameter to help build up exhaust gas velocity a bit quicker. To be honest with the roads i have here (alot shorter than the UK roads) you dont need alot of power...you need brakes and handling so thats kinda what ive been concentrating on. If you just get the car regardless of what the dealer tells you....SERVICE THE CAR. Seen a few instances where the alleged service was done and the plugs look like they were chewed on by a rabid pitbull and the oil was blacker than what spewed out of the Valdez. Power is all well and good but without a good maintenance foundation it will only cost you a rebuild in the end. Not trying to preach but just hate to see bad ***** happen to good cars and people.

I wouldnt go so far as to say the best option. Its the easiest. What i dont like about it is that its like a switch. The pulley on the supercharger is pretty much the same as your AC compressor pulley. It has an electronic clutch that engages only at full throttle. This means that changing the pulley is a bit out of the question not to mention that if you do swap it for a solid pulley of a different diameter you would have to completely revise the fueling. The blitz sc kit is good for small power and fuel economy. If you are looking for a poweradder with room to grow and develop i would suggest the Power enterprise (rotorex based) centrifugal supercharger kit (will need to get custom intercooler kit made) or if you want a little more power the next step would be the Apexi turbo kit with their power fc...looking for more than that? HKS GT-RS kit.

The 3sge can take quite alot of power. The altezza wont beable to run that much boost with the stock compression ratio. Lower the compression ratio with a head gasket to around 8.5:1 or get lower CR pistons and you can squeeze a bar of boost into these motors. Personally i dont want boost i preffer NA power. So far i have the following done to the engine Apexi intake and heat sheild De-cat Blitz nurspec for street driving, i modified my old nurspec of which the muffler itself rotted, replaced it with a straight pipe ...rather loud :D self made grounding kit I have plans for TRD 280* cams & valve springs TRD quad throttle kit with self made plenum Apexi power fc C-one header fujitsubo power getter mid-pipe I am also wanting to replace the pistons with custom forged 12:1 compression ratio ones(stock ratio is 11.5:1), both for the mild power increase and they will weigh less than the stock pistons.