Sirnixalot

the early spec mr2's...the body shape before the MRS...the sw10 or whatever the chassis code is came with the non BEAMS 3sge or the 3sgte. i know that the later ones like the 99's did come with the BEAMS 3sge (same as us altezza guys have) but mounted the wrong way lol btw....trust/mitsu turbos suck donkey scrotum, garrett or IHI (though i must admit i am impressed with the evo 9 mr rs's titanium wheeled turbo). A comparable sized garret will always make boost sooner than the mitsu****ty turbo's because mitsu seem to be allergic to ball bearings?

i'd offer you a straight jacket for that :D

I don't follow this Colin? Use mine as an example. (torque x rpm) / 5252 = power. (210 x 4664) / 5252 = 186.49 What does that mean? ← torque = (power x 5252)/rpm torque = (230x 5252)/7380 torque = 164ft/lb

edited my post above but ive sent the cylinder wall pix to my friend just now, he agrees with you on the wrist pin falling out. It points toward installation.

I suppose you wouldnt have appreciated if you posted up about your rather large spoiler breaking off when you hit a staggering 25mph and someone posted "why did you put the damn thing on in the first place, its hideous. I may look slow but at least i get there" I'm not her to turn this into a slow car vs real car fight, this is about her pistons/engine. To be honest i dont see you getting a bad batch of pistons from Toda but its not impossible. There are too many variables to just single out the pistons. What about intallation? You can have the best parts in the world but if they are installed wrong then they will do no good. What cause those deep scrapes? The piston rings look ok to me? Did the piston rotate freely when it was installed on the rod? After having a few of my mechanic friends take a look at those pix i was asked this "That looks like the piston was too large for the bore. Did they have the block honed/bored for the pistons? What was the specified bore on the pistons....an 86.5mm piston forced into an 86mm bore would deffinately cause this. Its either that or a manufacturing defect in the pistons themselves." Good call on the wrist pin Mat, i didnt think of that. I should have shown my friends the bore pix :shutit: Hope you get it sorted

Using cam gears remove the VVTi system...VVTi is constantly adjusting the cam gears/timing

The article was from import tuner. VVTi is engaged ALL THE TIME, its not an on or off type deal. From my understanding VVTi has 2 different modes (dont quote me on this im not sure), low end torque mode and high end power mode. Apparently our systems switch to high end power mode at 4700rpm. The controller adjusts the stock VVTi cam timing maps. I dont see this product giving any super significant gains to any single vvti NA application. But on a boosted single VVTi it would help reduce lag a little. The celica that IT tested their system on had VVTLi, i do not think they touched the cam switch over on the VVTLi (come to think of it im not sure if you can change that point). The HP gains dont look that significant on the BEAMS 3sge either, however the low end torque gains are massive To tune one of these you will need ALOT of dyno time. Basically you just have to try all the settings accross the board and see where each one makes the most power, then combine the settings that make the most power at each point. Here are the base settings from Power enterprise http://ks001.kent-net.jp/~ks001173/main/pr.../data/3S-GE.pdf

What times did you run on the 1/4 mile? ← they didnt ahve the lights out that day. Its not really a proper track, its a private road we are allowed to use on sundays. Judging from the last times i ran (15.65 @89mph) i would say that im running possibly a 15.5ish with the new clutch

wasnt the gearbox...was the diff

Thanks for the quick replies! ...collection only :(, wonder if british airways will let me take it back on the plane

TRD cerametallic + day at the drags = busted gearbox anyone have one laying about?

They are all bolt on kits but forced induction always brings suprises be it small or large. Go for the greddy kit with the intercooler and dont pass 0.65bar....you may be able to get away with 0.8bar but that depends on the quality of your petrol, personally i wouldnt take the rist for an extra 20-30bhp at the cost of my engine. Basically leave the wastegate at what its set at and dont get any boost controllers.

LOL .i know (or used to know) the Nissan pulsar gtir like my own limb. The thermostat is a valve, its closed during colder coolant temps (though it still lets some coolant pass through it) to let the engine get up to temperature. The standard thermostat is fine for a standard engine. When you start making more power this means you make more heat, a "colder" thermostat opens up at a colder temperature to lower the operating temperature.

LOL...if youre a good driver it shouldnt kick in. If you are trying to be a decent road going citizen it "should never kick in", but i can garuntee no one drives like that all the time, even you. Driving smooth and driving fast CAN be two different things but i usually find myself alot smoother when im racing (im not concentrating on my revmatching so proactivley, my body just does it) and a little jerky on the street when im making a concious effort to be smooth. Now just cause im smoother when im racing doesnt meant that the TRC will never kick in...far from it, to get the vehicle round a corner in the fastest posttible maner it will always kick in. The next track day you have, do a lap with TRD on and a lap with it off unless you are like me and have no tracks.... :winky: I can see the problem Am is talking about, the TRD yellows give the car quite a bit more rotation which could lend itself to the situation....not to mention Am has about 80 more bhp than me let alone any dinky is200 The aristo's tration control system is far more advanced than the altezza's (but thne it has to be cause they are freakin tanks).

HKS Hiper or 5zigen fireball please.....i wish the amuse titanium sounded like those

the thermostat made a big difference in temp...2 notches on the factory gauge....here is a DIY i wrote up when i did it Tools needed 10mm deep socket & ratchet 12mm socket 10mm spanner (get a ratcheting one TRUST ME) Pliers (for the radiator hose clamps) Flat bladed screwdriver Small hands/arms (now’s the time to teach the wife or child how to do some car stuff) Wait for car to cool thoroughly. Drain coolant from the radiator. Once the coolant has been drained, disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator. This will help you maneuver the thermostat housing around in the tight area. With the lower radiator hose free you need to locate the thermostat housing. It is at the top right hand side of the motor (looking at it standing in front of the car). It’s under various bits of wiring harness and is a bit awkward to get to. I found the thermostat housing easier to access with both exhaust manifold heat shield’s removed. You do not HAVE to do this step but it will save you from being cut by them (ask me how I know). You will need the 12mm socket for this. With the heat shields out of the way and lower radiator hose free from the radiator you can now concentrate your efforts on the housing itself. It is held on by 2 10mm nuts. For the top nut you will need the 10mm deep socket, the reason you need a deep socket is for reach (it will become apparent when you attempt this). The lower nut, which you have to blindly molest the bottom of the housing till you find it, requires the 10mm spanner. Your life will be made 1000 times easier if you get a 10mm spanner that ratchets. With the nuts off (and hopefully not lost in the recesses of the engine bay somewhere) grab the flat bladed screwdriver and gently pry the housing from the block. Water will come rushing out once the housing is removed so you may want to put a bucket or a few towels under the car to catch this. Now it gets harder. Trying to get the thermostat housing to lift over the studs it’s slotted onto. You just have to wiggle and what not till you get it off them. If you can manage enough room, get the old thermostat out of there (it may require some convincing). The hardest part of all is getting the new thermostat to sit in the housing while you try to install everything where it went. You will be testing your dexterity every inch of the way. I found I had to reach under the housing and lift the thermostat up with a finger while I slid the housing back onto the studs (oooo that sounded far too dirty). Then you have to hold the housing there and thread the nuts back on. The lower one is the easiest to start because you can do it by hand. The upper nut you will have to use the deep socket to do. I found it easiest to use just the socket without the ratchet to start the nut and then once it’s snug continue to tighten it with the ratchet. With the thermostat housing tightened down you can now put back in the heat shields. Once they are on and secure you can now refill the car with coolant/water. Keep a bottle of coolant/water with you on your first drive as you will probably have to top up the coolant once the car warms up. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE CAR IS HOT!!!! I cannot stress that enough as I am not responsible for any bodily or vehicular harm which may ensue. If you find that the car is over heating find a nice spot and let it cool. Once its cooled enough that you can take the radiator cap off, fill up the radiator as required. My temps went from the notch above the halfway mark with the stock 1.1bar radiator cap and 82*C thermostat to between the half way notch and the notch below it with the TRD 1.3bar radiator cap and 71*C thermostat.

Not in my case. It REALLY effects performance in my car, i can't drive flat out round bends with the stupid thing on! ← that and i challenge you to get the factory 0-60 time with it on

hmm....you may be right, i havent driven mine with traction control in aobut 2 years. It doesnt just cut fueling though, it closes the throttle plate as well. IF it cut just fuel it would sound like the rev limiter.

this is for an altezza not an IS200....

this topic can be beaten to death but here are some generals. The blitz is the most cost effective supercharger kit out there at the moment, it will also improve the torque down low. Upgradability and from the looks of things with Am's kit, tuneability is lacking. The pulley on the blitz is not changable so you are stuck with the 0.45bar (i think thats the boost level, Am can confirm this later). the intercooler is an option. The power enterprise supercharger kit uses a centrifugal and will have similar characteristics to a turbo. The pulley on this can be changed easily (providing you can get your own custom machined on a lathe). It is also the most expensive kit, it doesnt come with any fuel managment or intercooler. The best bank for your buck turbo kit is the greddy kit, how ever you will be limited to around 280-300bhp if i remember (i could be wrong on the numbers). It comes with a preprogrammed e-manage (i was told that this unit cannot be reprogrammed) and the intercooler is an option. If i were you i would go with the following. Apexi turbo kit with intercooler option (good for around 350bhp, not sure at what boost) Apexi power fc (can get preprogrammed with a base map for the apexi turbo kit) Power enterprise 550cc injectors You will only be able to run a max of 0.6 bar or 9psi of boost (i wouldnt run anymore than that on the stock compression ratio). If you want to run more than that you would need to open the engine up and do a thicker headgasket at the very least. The thickest headgasket i know is the Toda 1.8mm which drop the compression ratio from 11.5:1 to 10.8:1. Thats still really high for boost but you could see 12psi on that. Any higher than that and you would have to start thinking about forged pistons.

The manually actuated part of the throttle is only in the middle 25*-30* of the 90* of the throttle plate motion. The rest of it is controled by the electronic throttle, the middle range is also electronically assisted. Take off your intake pipe and with the car off have some one press on the gas pedal and see what i mean.

the thermostat will be the most challenging job. that thing is a real bitch to get to. If you need any pointers on anything (save the bushes as ive never done those) let me know. ALso which bushes are you doing? All of the lower suspension bushings?

its a bit easier to vit a V6 in an engine bay than an I6.

Not meaning to offend anyone but simply put....you dont pay enough attention to your car. For one there is a yellow light on the dash telling you TRC is off. Not to mention you should know if its off or not. If its off you should be in the frame of mind to cope with loss of traction IF you incite it. Just because the trac is off doesnt mean that the car will slide around every bend. You have to push it, especially in an altezza with stock sways. In the wet it is easy to get them to slide, that being said again you should be aware of your car and the current road environment. Spending 400gbp on a traction control system is stupid for an NA altezza/is200/is300. Boosted or high power applications i can see where it would be of some advantage. If my ex gf could drive my car with trd sways and no trc and not have it step out even in the wet then im sure you can. Know the traction limits of your car and you will almost never have it slide.

im pretty sure that it slows the throttle response under hard accelleration as well as closing the throttle plate when the front/rear wheel speeds are different