Sirnixalot

they are just the supra front calipers, disks and a set of altezza braided lines and rear disks now keeping in mind the cost of a new TRD big brake kit is about 1000gbp before shipping as for the lsd and final gear, even the toyota dealer can do that. you have to get the clearences on that right or the diff would be noisy and could get damaged

its the rad cap that does it...i added one of those and damn was my car quick after that

im saying that the ECU opens the throttle quicker when the TRC is off which is why it feels quicker. You get better throttle response whent he TRC is off.

The ecu controls how fast the throttle body opens when the TRC is on. When the abs sensors tell the ECU that the wheel speed between the front wheels and the rear wheels are different then the ECU closes the throttle plate.

DAMN! What a difference! I never thought that i would actually be able to feel the difference. The car is TONS more stable under hard braking, the turn in is a little better and you can feel the difference when cornering. This brace is well worth it, priced a few bucks cheaper than the TRD as well

Got one from Matt (Frylai). Its even got a master cylinder brace. It arrived the NEXT DAY from hong freaking kong to the middle of the damn caribbean!!!! Fedex rules. Cusco has their own tape....thats just beyond words, This genuin JDM cusco packagine tape will be up on ebay soon Shiny! I didnt know it was going to be polished! Installed master cylinder brace Will post driving impressions later.

Front fenders look ok...the rear ones on the other hand

yup....rear is at -2.75 Are we talking "front" camber at 2deg 25' negative? ←

toe is @ 0 camber is at -2.25* castor is at 7.44*

my car lowered as is has about 7* of positive castor (think its positive). Steering is quick to return

hmmm...sounds like an upgrade i might be interested in later on. i would do the supra swap but increasing unsprung weight isnt what i would like to do. The ls calipers and a set of 2 piece stock sized rotors would be just what the doctor ordered

forgive my ignorance...but are those LS calipers a direct bolt on? i dont imagine they are.

http://www.trdparts.jp/parts_seatbelt.html :D

the wheels are from wedsport http://www.weds.co.jp/products/wedssport/tc005.html

check www.takakaira.com under accessories bride makes seat rails

Am just brought that to my attention the stock front calipers are NOT 4 pots. They are floating 2 pot calipers and the rear are rigid 2 pots (one pot on either side of the disk)

i agree on using a fluid with a higher temp rating for racing, but just one stop isnt the whole story. The base 350z will out brake the sport package 350z (with the brembo's) for the first stop or 2 but after the pads and rotors get too hot the value of the brembo's become apparent as their stopping distance remains consistant and the stock floating caliper brakes start to fade off into dangerous territory. To be honest...i dont see the need for larger calipers/disks unless you have a serious power increase (I.e. Mat's car). If you do a good set of pads and braided lines you will be amazed. I've got TRD street pads & Toms braided lines all around....BIIIIIG improvment. Though if the brembo calipers are aluminum they will save some unsprung weight which is always a good thing

i bet stock for stock the IS wil see brake fade long before the porsche.

Am has a point on the clutch. Get at least an uprated organic. Btw...your supercharger wouldnt cope with the 13.5:1 compression ratio unless you ran ALOT of methanol injection.

Header = C-one or HKS Type 1, the c-one has the larges diameter primaries of all the headers offered for the altezza (48mm), the HKS type 1 and 2 use 45mm primaries (the type 1 is a 4-1, the type 2 is a 4-2-1 design) Do a 2.5" exhaust from the header back. and a de-cat as well. The mid pipe has the cat integrated into it. I would suggest getting a new b-pipe made up, put a straight through resonator on it if you are worried about noise. If you are going with the F-con you can do away with the MAF, i suggest getting the TRD ITB's kit or help me out and do it cheaper (itb adapter US$360, used 20v itbs US$240, ITB's velocity stacks $220). The stock throttle body has an ID of 73mm...you DO NOT NEED to replace this UNLESS you want to get rid of the electronic throttle body/traction control. The f-con and itbs with velocity stacks are worth about 30-40bhp. You will be able to hit 245bhp with those mods. I would consider getting cams as well if i were you. The Toda cams are the cheapest but they are also the mildest (268* intake 264* exhaust). Also i would try to keep the VVTi if its going to be a daily driver. These mods will get you around 220bhp or 175-180whp and around 170ft/lbs of torque or 130-135rwtq apexi intake and heat sheild c-one header 2.5 midpipe no cat 2.5" exhaust power fc/emanage (Toda cams & valve springs with 8500rpm add 7-10rwhp) (TRD 280* cams & valve springs with 8800rpm add 10-13rwhp) (TRD 296* cams & valve springs with 8800rpm add 14-15rwhp) These mods will get you around 240bhp or 190-195whp and around 140-145rwtq. Open itb's C-one header 2.5" midpipe no cat 2.5" exhaust f-con (Toda cams & valve springs with 8500rpm add 7-10rwhp) (TRD 280* cams & valve springs with 8800rpm add 10-13rwhp) (TRD 296* cams & valve springs with 8800rpm add 14-15rwhp) If you are going to dig into the engine the head has quite a bit of material left for porting. Also you could grab an Toda 0.5mm head gasket and run a 12:1 compression. (roughly every 0.3mm = 0.5 CR points) Keep in mind with that compression ratio Optimax is a REQUIRMENT. You may even need to add octane booster or do a race fuel/optimax mix. A 0.5 bump in compression ratio wont do ALOT for power (you may see 2whp) but if you are trying to squeeze every last hp out it will help, besides if you are opening the engine up you will need a new gasket anyway. Also getting a set of lighter forged pistons and an engine balancing would help. If you go with pistons i would go the custom route, send the manufacturer of your choice and just get them to replicate it, they should have some weight loss options for the pistons as well. The lighter the better BUT you will not be able to run a large shot of nitrous or boost with these (who would boost a 12:1CR motor for a daily driver is beyond me). Light pistons wont have the mass to cope with the increased heat and pressure that boost adds. All of those parts are usless without good tuning. I'm not sure what A/F ratio these motors make power at because ive never put mine on a dyno/rolling road yet but im making an educated guess that around 13:1 will be good. I'll just summarize my current setup and planned mods Current Emanage (hope to change to a TEC 3) Apexi intake & heat sheild de-catted stock mid pipe blitz nur spec Nitrous express 125hp shot TRD cerametallic clutch & flywheel Planned TEC 3 ecu (does away with MAF) Open 20v itb's with velocity stacks C-one header Fujitsubo power getter mid pipe (catless) Buddy club racing spec 3 (i think its the 3) exhaust Toda 0.5mm head gasket Custom forged pistons (probably from Arias or Ross, will get the crowns ceramic coated and the skirts moly coated) Possibly Crower or eagle rods (the lighter of the 2, also i'm not sure if the 3sgte rods work, i dont really want to spend money on custom rods) Light head work, basically just gasket matching and polishing the ports (will moly coat the valve stems & ceramic coat the valve faces and combustion chamber. Cryo treat the stock rods if reused as well as the valve springs. All and all i think i can get a 210-220rwhp out of it which would be around an 50-60rwhp increase over stock. All my figures are best guesses i dont have any actual numbers on their increases. That being said i am confident that they are a good estimate. The cam power increases may be a bit optomistic. For what its worth the TRD motor makes 270bhp 180ftlb tq or around 216rwhp 145rwtq. The mods the TRD motor has that i know of are 87mm pistons 13.5:1 compression ratio TRD ITB kit TRD header TRD exhaust TRD VVTi-invalid 296* cams

Just looking for a scan of a page or 2. any help would be much appreciated

you have a good point about the bushes. the stock ones are VERY VERY mushy. you can grab the lower arm when its only connected to the subframe and twist the stock bushes. For the rear diff...i wouldnt bother with the trd bushes, just get some aluminum spacers machined. Though you would have to cope with a noise increase.

you are going to need at least 20mm of allen key i think...a socket might be too fat if its a 3/8 drive.

mine were a bit stubborn but all you need is a 5mm allen key and they will come out. keep track of the little bastards too, i lost 3 out of the 7 bolts

One of the seals went in my steering rack so ive taken the rack off and stripped the steering rack down to the outer housing and the inner rack itself. I need to get the inner rack out but i dont see a way to do that. The opening on one end of the rack is shaped like it could accept a 35-40mm allen key...some thing stupidly large. Im sure i could find this but i dont want to fark the rack. anyone know anything about this? I just dont want to get this bit, put the rack in a vise and twist something im not supposed to twist