MUDGUTS

I'm curious about this system: The last time I serviced my 1997 LS 400, I noted the brake pads were low but OK and also noticed a wear indicator on the front (can't remember if there was one on the back). Recently the light came on and I have had all four discs and all pads replaced. The brakes are A LOT better. The guys who did the work were unable to get a replacement sensor that day and have carried out a temporary repair to get the warning light to go out but it is still on, so I guess I need another sensor. Questions: Is it possible there is a sensor on the rear brakes that has also worn and I need 2 replacements? Has anyone ever had a repair by connecting the wires fail? Also could an ECU reset clear this?

Just bought a pair for my 97 LS400. From http://strutsdirect.co.uk/components/index.php I drove over and collected them as they are in my home town. £28.10. Quite easy to fit.

Exactly, they must surely have a flow chart for this kind of thing and that should have involved checking basic stuff like fuel pressure. I'll be persuing it quite aggressively. They actually told me they would get to the bottom of it. Doesn't inspire much confidence does it? I have posted up the results and photo on the USA and Canda forum.

The clamp was 'upstream' of the tank, so I guess it was put there before before a fuel filter change. I don't know when it was fitted but almost certainly before I got the car. I have written to Lexus to complain about their diagnosis and to ask why they never checked the fuel pressure themselves and about the advice that they ‘remove the cylinder heads to check for excess carboning / decoke’. I can't see why they said this other than to price themselves out of a job because they were stumped.

My 1997 MK 3 has DHP wheels, however, the sticker inside the lid for the CD changer which gives tyre pressures only refers to 16 inch wheels and I have 17 inch wheels. Is there any other way of knowing mine is DHP or not?

****UPDATE**** The problem is now resolved and I can confirm the car performs as it should do, right through the range, transmission operating correctly, etc. Today the technicians at Thor Racing, Coventry, had a look at the fuel pressure and confirmed it was low, so had a look in the tank at the pump with the intention of replacing this, they also had a look at the fuel filter (which was clear) and after a good look around, discovered a fuel clamp, hidden away on the fuel pipe by the differential. Once removed, the fuel pressure was confirmed at correct, the car road tested and as I say above, it is 100% now. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, as SRK said on the USA and Canada forum the fuel pressure should be looked at. I think the voltage rise to the pump had been checked when the car last went in but we ran out of time to persue this any further and I have been living with it since I bought the car. The increased noise from the pump recently is still a mystery but the pump is now silent. Somewhere a mechanic is missing a fuel clamp...

I think everything you need to know is in that thread. On a similar subject though, I'm trying to give the info below a wide circulation, so I have copied and pasted it from one of my own posts on another forum. ----------------------------- ...This subject comes up every year. Every motoring website has a similar thread. I have seen lots of overpriced screen wash for sale everywhere from Halfords to Tesco & various filling stations. The only ready-mixed screen wash that seems to be good value is the stuff from Lidl: If you can get it. Alternatively you can mix your own. The information below will hopefully help those who are prepared to help themselves. I have read over & over again that German screen wash products are very good, so that’s either the ready-mixed type in small bottles from Porsche or VAG or the concentrated type that has a vessel at the top to measure the required quantity. Two appear to be very good value: Sonax Clear View (Seems to be dead link now) Einszett Kristallklar BTW they both come in 250ml bottles; there is an error in the Einszett webpage. Either product works out about 30 pence per litre when mixed with water which is fine for summer use. When it comes to winter, all you have to do, when you mix up a load in your 5 litre container, is add some Ethanol / IPA / Isopropyl Alcohol / Isopropanol (Chemists will explain the difference, I’m pretty sure for the purpose of screen wash they are all fine). See below for suitable concentrations. I got mine from eBay & it worked out about £2.50 per litre, so even at 40% concentration, when combined with Sonax Clear View or Einszett Kristall Klar it’s around £1.30 per Litre. That would be good down to -23 oC 10% Ethanol = Freezing point of -4 oC 20% Ethanol = Freezing point of -9 oC 30% Ethanol = Freezing point of -15 oC 40% Ethanol = Freezing point of -23 oC 50% Ethanol = Freezing point of -32 oC 60% Ethanol = Freezing point of -37 oC I hope this info helps folk avoid paying excessive amounts for that blue water...

Some more developements: This evening the whine is not only still there but seems slightly louder, so I conducted a bit of research: The noise ocurs just after start and definately when I floor the throttle, it will stay on, whining away, until I take my foot off the pedal. At the same time the engine will hold back as always, so the noise and the engine holding back are happening at the same time. Also I tested the system that ups the pump voltage again by jumping FP and +B in the diagnostic port and the pump does seem to get louder, it's not so pronounced if the engine is off but with the engine running, the noise I hear is the same as described above, so now I can be fairly sure that the whining is from the pump working harder. My theory now is that the pump was never powerful enough to supply the extra fule demanded and that leads to the engine holding back somehow. I'm going to get a new pump tomorrow and have it fitted as soon as possible. I'll try to keep the old one to carry out an autopsy on it and will post up the results LOC (USA and Canada) below http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/70887-1997-ls-400-wont-rev-beyond-4000/page__st__15

...Well I have a few to go and also some more party food but I don't think that's the problem. :) For info I have tried jumping FP and +B in the diagnostic port and the pump does seem to get a higher voltage, you can definately hear it then but otherwise it is silent. It certainly sounds like the noise I'm hearing. I think the pump is becoming noisy when it has to run faster. Obviously this could be a red herring but I won't know until it's changed. The dilema is that this car is getting quite old now and I'm very reluctant to spend any money on it. My strategy now may be to run it until that pump fails and then have it replaced. If that fixes the fault, that would be great but I won't put any more money into it unless it needs it to keep it on the road. If the pump replacement is expensive, that would be the end for the car. Does anyone have experience of these pumps failing?

This is interesting and I was wondering if any GS300 owners may be able to help me: I am again contemplating replacing my 97 LS 400 and a GS430 is a possibility...However there are not that many to be found and I was wondering how the GS300 compares. My LS doesnt run past 4000 RPM (It's a long story: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=73960) ...So I am interested in how fast and capable a GS 300 would be: Could one cruise happily at say 100 MPH on the Autobahn, say? Instinct tells me that it probably would do that but could it do that without breaking a sweat? My LS is running at around 3300 RPM at a ton. All info gratefully recieved.

...Well gents, I have done over 22,000 miles since purchase now and finally there is something that approaches a symptom manifesting itself: I now get a high pitched whine from the rear: Sometimes as I first pull away and now I can re-produce it when I accelarate hard but as soon as I come off the throttle, the noise stops. It's like the noise is from a fuel pump or some similar component straining...yet the car starts and runs fine. Nothing else has changed apart from this, the car stil drives OK).

Update: ...nothing to report. It still runs perfectly in every other area but this one issue. I would spend some more money on trying to get to the bottom of this but have resigned myself to running it to the next MOT and then trading for a 430. I'm approaching 18,000 miles or so in it now (total is around 165,000).

Have a look at the link below. http://www.clublexus...t-bulb-fix.html

Straight through the MOT this morning, NO advisorys

Thanks for the contributions, Gents. This (OBD) is one of the reasons I want a 430 next time around (OBD2): When I took this to the Lexus dealer in Milton Keynes, they were pretty clueless and I don't want that to happen again. I found some info on Club Lexus http://www.clublexus...ion-issues.html Most, if not all of the things tried there have been looked at on mine, including bypassing the fuel pump ecu (or similar). Driving home on the motorway recently, I thought the issue had gone away, when I floored the throttle, the car responded instantly, whereas normally it seems to trim back the fuel, as if taking your foot OFF. 2 days later I tried flooring it again and the car dropped a gear and the RPM went to about 5000 and swung about wildly while the car stayed at its current speed. Once I took my foot off the throttle, it changed up and carried on as if nothing had happened. I'm coming up to 15,000 miles in this now and it's actually very drivable, provided you don't expect it to take off when you floor it. The MOT is next Monday. If it's OK, I'll be keeping it for another year maximum.

I have found another port for diagnostics underneath the engine cover, see pics: ...Could this be OBD2? There is the normal round port under the drivers side panel near the pedals and this is the one I have been using to check for codes by shorting TE1 and E1. I assume the garages I have been taking it to are doing the same thing, they have referred to various codes for oxygen sensors, etc. Does this look like a ODB2 port?

Thanks Maduggo, I have read that thread and I'm thinking that there are virtually no non-premium pack models out there. From the dozens I have seen on the web, only one had a normal steering wheel (leather, not half leather, half wood). So maybe they are all very similar.

Hello, My LS400 goes in for its MOT in a week or so and I'm hoping to keep it for another year (maximum) after that. I'll be looking for a LS430 next time and I have a few questions to help when I start looking: 1) How can you tell if the car has air suspension from advert photographs on the web? 2) I want the Levinson Audio: How can you tell it has this? 3) As above with rear massage seats 4) Is there such a thing as a DHP on the 430 or is that just a sport setting on the air suspension? Does all this come with a Premium Pack? If so that's what I'll be looking for, or are the above split up? Any help appreciated, I'll start looking later this year so I'm not rushed into a replacement for my 400.

It could be either of the products I have named below on a post I made on PistonHeads a while ago: This subject comes up every year. Every motoring website has a similar thread. I have seen lots of overpriced screen wash for sale everywhere from Halfords to Tesco & various filling stations. The only ready-mixed screen wash that seems to be good value is the stuff from Lidl: If you can get it. Alternatively you can mix your own. The information below will hopefully help those who are prepared to help themselves. I have read over & over again that German screen wash products are very good, so that’s either the ready-mixed type in small bottles from Porsche or VAG or the concentrated type that has a vessel at the top to measure the required quantity. Two appear to be very good value: Sonax Clear View Einszett Kristallklar BTW they both come in 250ml bottles; there is an error in the Einszett webpage. Either product works out about 30 pence per litre when mixed with water which is fine for summer use. When it comes to winter, all you have to do, when you mix up a load in your 5 litre container, is add some Ethanol / IPA / Isopropyl Alcohol / Isopropanol (Chemists will explain the difference, I’m pretty sure for the purpose of screen wash they are all fine). See below for suitable concentrations. I got mine from eBay & it worked out about £2.50 per litre, so even at 40% concentration, when combined with Sonax Clear View or Einszett Kristall Klar it’s around £1.30 per Litre. That would be good down to -23 oC 10% Ethanol = Freezing point of -4 oC 20% Ethanol = Freezing point of -9 oC 30% Ethanol = Freezing point of -15 oC 40% Ethanol = Freezing point of -23 oC 50% Ethanol = Freezing point of -32 oC 60% Ethanol = Freezing point of -37 oC I hope this info helps folk avoid paying excessive amounts for that blue water.

Whilst we are on a related subject, screenwash can also make a difference to ones 'Wash and Wipe Experience'.This subject comes up every year. Every motoring website has a similar thread. I have seen lots of overpriced screen wash for sale everywhere from Halfords to Tesco & various filling stations. The only ready-mixed screen wash that seems to be good value is the stuff from Lidl: If you can get it. Alternatively you can mix your own. The information below will hopefully help those who are prepared to help themselves. I have read over & over again that German screen wash products are very good, so that’s either the ready-mixed type in small bottles from Porsche or VAG or the concentrated type that has a vessel at the top to measure the required quantity. Two appear to be very good value: Sonax Clear View Einszett Kristallklar BTW they both come in 250ml bottles; there is an error in the Einszett webpage. Either product works out about 30 pence per litre when mixed with water which is fine for summer use. When it comes to winter, all you have to do, when you mix up a load in your 5 litre container, is add some Ethanol / IPA / Isopropyl Alcohol / Isopropanol (Chemists will explain the difference, I’m pretty sure for the purpose of screen wash they are all fine). See below for suitable concentrations. I got mine from eBay & it worked out about £2.50 per litre, so even at 40% concentration, when combined with Sonax Clear View or Einszett Kristall Klar it’s around £1.30 per Litre. That would be good down to -23 oC 10% Ethanol = Freezing point of -4 oC 20% Ethanol = Freezing point of -9 oC 30% Ethanol = Freezing point of -15 oC 40% Ethanol = Freezing point of -23 oC 50% Ethanol = Freezing point of -32 oC 60% Ethanol = Freezing point of -37 oC I hope this info helps folk avoid paying excessive amounts for that blue water.

I have a question regarding the removal of the rear seats on an SC 430. Having looked at a few on the web, I notice that although there are some rear seats, the space in the back is probably unusable for anyone larger than a very small child What I was thinking about was removing the rear seats totally and having that area re-trimmed, ideally in a very similar carpet to the rest of the car and mayby put some hide in there too. This would give me a nice area for bags, etc Is this feasable? Are there components that sit behind the seats that would get in the way or otherwise pervent me doing this? Has anyone else done this or condidered it? All contributions welcome. Currently I'm running a LS400 but rarely use the back seats and we have other large cars in the family.

Try cleaning the windscreen with Bar Keepers Friend. £2-3 from a supermarket. I learned this from detailingworld. Sometimes windscreens get crap on them that won't shif with normal cleaners.

Well, I have done over 10,000 miles in this car now with no change to the original symptoms. It's had 4 new tyres and is still driving nicely. No fault codes have ever appeared. I fixed the loose wipers with a replacement wiper motor (thanks benfur) and apart from a replacement temp sensor and a couple of bulbs, it's given no problems. Regarding this 4000 RPM problem: I have a sneaky suspicion it's the knock sensors, I'll be considering getting this looked at. As always, any contributions welcome

Thanks Steve. I'll steer clear of the AS ones if I can. I read about the water ingress problem. When the time comes, I might even have the car suspension overhauled with aftermaket components and the whole lot set up. My LS400 rode much better after a geometry set up when I put the new tyres on. I don't have any worries with the engine or gearbox (despite the snag on mine) as the OBD 2 should avoid a lot of head scratching should a fault occur.

I'm looking to establish whether or not I should replace my LS 400 with a 430 or not when the time comes, so I have a few questions: 1) Do all Ls 430s come with air suspension? 2) If there is / was an option for spring suspension, how do I find a car with that 3) Assuming I have a car with air suspension, how troublesome is it? Would it be worth me setting some money aside to have the whole set-up overhauled after purchase? 4) Is it possible to convert to spring suspenion? I'm not 100% I want another LS if I am going to run into expensive problems with this. If must work correctly all of the time. Thanks in advance for the input