legendswraith

nothing dirty about it besides your deviant mind i jsut want security of fittings. Exhaust gas leakeage can be such a downer

No sorry i want my flange to be screwable and a nice tight fit

you don't need a guide its self explanitory when you remove the caliper. Just go buy new sliding pins from toyota they are about £8 ea

Cheers Chris. Can't see her coughing up for a hire car she's a pensioner and her husbands and complete :tsktsk: head, he tried to make out it was my fault in some way :duh: but you can't deck an OAP can you If thats the case just insist it goes through the insurance at that age she's probably got seven hundred years protected no claims. Watch out for the sympathy vote when the cost comes up too

Sometimes is better to get the flange quicker rather than wait for the cheaper one, in my opinion anyway. Fairly comparable on price with the shipping anyhow

pfft its the midlands i don't want any i've pre owned or someone else has run in

Well i have a caliper knocking around somewhere if they are the same can't remember which side it is though. I'll try and find out the part numbers and which side the caliper is Part numbers are different but that doesnt neccesarily mean anything as i know they use different numbers on the same parts for different vehicles (found out today with MAF sensors) Could do with a physical check they look very similar on the drawings

Well i have a caliper knocking around somewhere if they are the same can't remember which side it is though. I'll try and find out the part numbers and which side the caliper is

whats wrong with your caliper?if its seized i wrote a guide on how to recon your caliper for free if the seals are ok or for a few pounds if you need a new seal kit. oh the guide is in the thread sticking caliper its below your thread. thanks for your reply fella but the slider is well and truely stuck it will not move its like its been welded in, plus im not the best with a spanner. lol are the is fronts same as the GS300 jz147? can't remember

Cleaned the MAF up last night and i got 5 min of it running normally this morning and revving freely at WOT so its looking like a MAF problem. Just need to get a new one now, certainly won't be from the spares place i found that want £4 under what toyota want for a new one for a second hand one

:P I just hope I can find a flange or two in the next couple of weeks! If I can get a supplier is there anyone else who'd like a flange? I'll stop now :) I'll take one too i want to put a wideband with a narrowband simulator in the place of the oem one. I might nip down to the machine shop when i get back to work see if they have the time to make some.

I'll have a looksee tomorrow morning and see if i can see an easy way

Its not under load atm this is all done free revving so no fuel cut is involved but you are under load when at WOT which is were yoru having probs isnt it yes but its WOT in neutral it doesn't see boost pressure in neutral

You're not in linear plus mode are you? You should have an options near the top of the thread, change that to standard if it's not already. Usually happens when you come in to this site via Google and it changes your settings! I tried disconnecting that sensor by the way we were on about over at CA and my car stalled and wouldn't start again without it - does yours start without it still then? Are all the vac hoses all the right way round and stuff now? Are you putting new coils on then? If so would be interested to see the outcome as they'll be straight onto my todo list! That sorted out the way everything looks cheers aido. Yes picking up new coils tomorrow and a spark module. Did you cap off both points from the manifold to the sensor? I am assuming we are talking about the Envy Free FCD

No i'll attach the line from the manifold to the sensor to the greddy sensor instead and cap off the one on the engine, not use the wiring

Its not under load atm this is all done free revving so no fuel cut is involved

Ah i answered this elsewhere i removed the HKS FCD to run on the emanage FCD function in future i am going to jsut circumvent the cars MAP sensor. The way this shows on my PC now is soooooo confusing

I had the FCD in and the emanage when it was attached controlling fuel cut it was raising the fuel cut i was having fun with, this is an unrelated issue thats cropped up at the same time. Once i get this sorted i'll deal with fuel cut by removing the feed to the MAP sensor so it only sees atmospheric and sending the pressure line to a pressure sensor for the emanage

tubbies are winding up fine no untoward noise so i'm not concerned about them until all else is done. I am absolutely convinced its either a coil or an o2 problem due to the fact it won't rev and its running so rich. I think either the coils cant handle a WOT fuel demand atm and are not sparking enough or the o2 sensor is telling the ecu its lean when its not and its semi flooding at WOT, i would just like someone to come along and say, oh i had that its this, but i don't think thats going to happen. Tommorow i'm going to change the coils and pull and clean any sensor i can get out

emanage is disconnected atm to solve this problem, besides a slight difference in boost wouldn't cause this. I've posted on mk4 as well i'm covering all angles on this one ;)

Having problems with the car atm, to outline it after i turned the boost up to 1.2 it started blowing pipes off all over so after playing replace the hosing for a while everything seemed alright apart from a fuel cut issue. Come the other week i thought the car had done the same again it started running sluggishly, but it wouldn't give any power under WOT and i needed to gently bring the revs up to keep the car moving any sudden movements with the throttle and it hesitated. I've looked all over the car for split/loose pipes and i have jsut changed the plugs as well, but i still have the problem. While parked if i rev gently i can take the engine thru the rev range, if i plant my foot and try to use WOT then the car jsut stutters and struggles to get above 1200rpm. Its also running very lumpy at idle as if its not picking up the revs on cold starts but it sits quite comfortably at 600 when warm, and on top of all this it seems to be running extremely rich. I'm at a bit of a loss on this one apart from changing the coil packs and possibly the lambda. If anyone can shed some light on it or say yes its coilpacks etc it would give me some peace of mind, ATM i can see it being expensive and i am missing the first set of dry roads i have seen since i got the car. Cheers Austin

Well considering i have an import thats limited to 118kmph and i'm sure it goes faster than that i should think so ;)

I've got one of these off fed ex, i am ignoring atm until they get shirty. I have no problems in paying the customs fee thats just one of those things, if they get you they get you if they don't you've done well. What annoys me is the admin charge i've always tried to figure out how the hell thats my responsibility. I did not contract their services, i did not ask for carriage so how is any charge due to postage my issue. I've never gotten around to arguing it with them but i might this time to see if i can get it to work After a quick bit of research (i still need to ring up customs to check) you must pay the customs charge regarless its a legal tariff, however the admin fee is what they add and there is apparently no legal standing for it. So you could just tell them to shove it up their hoop

Look up caliper overhaul kits to replace the seals etc toyota do them and they are on ebay occasionally.

WB Fargo we were just killing time till you returned.